Power Stop Or Stoptech brakes?

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 12:57 PM
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Power Stop Or Stoptech brakes?

I am going to buy a new set of brakes (front and rear). I have looked at Stoptech from XLR8 and I have also seen Powerstop on another site. I do not know which one is better because the Stoptech brakes are $415 and the Powerstops are around $240. The powerstops are cross-drilled and slotted while the Stoptechs are slotted. I have hard things about drilled and how they are not that different and it is more for looks. And having drilled and slotted can ware and break a lot easier than just slotted. I do not know which one to buy and I wonder why the power stops are much cheaper than the Stoptechs. Any advice?
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 12:58 PM
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they are rotors bro!

go get you a set of autozone blanks for $70!!!!
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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I have went through rotors left and right due to my sense of driving and I would just like to have rotors that would last me a while.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:05 PM
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for real?
I go through pads like water, but a chunk of iron(rotor) last for more than a few years .....
you are most likely throwing away good rotors....

or stop riding the brakes!!!!!!!
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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and doesnt $70 sound better than $240.....if you say you go through them like that...
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Yeah it does, but my last set of rotors got warped due to overheating because of braking and shit like that. At least the slotted rotors will reduce the heat.
I would rather pay the $240 to have them last longer. I just gotta change the way I drive bit.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:15 PM
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you might be throwing away good rotors!!!
rotors dont necessarily warp. instead, what happens is the pad gets melted onto the rotor which then makes the rotor un-even.


are you automatic or 6MT?
I suspect you're riding the brakes which then causes heat from friction and melts the pads.
OR it could be a dragging caliper.

when you get new pads and rotors, you'll want to do what is called a bed-in procedure..this is the fun part!
the bed-in procedure requires you to do a few 60-10mph stops!!! but do not come to a complete stop. do this several times on an empty road way.

this bed-in procedure helps mate the pad and rotor together and helps prevent pad material being left onto rotor

Last edited by justnspace; Jan 30, 2017 at 01:18 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:17 PM
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Automatic.
How are they still good if they rumble after trying to brake after 60 mph?
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:18 PM
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I wouldn't spend the extra money on slotted or drilled rotors, that is a big waste of money.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Perdomes
Automatic.
How are they still good if they rumble after trying to brake after 60 mph?
you can try turning them/machining them...
or you can try re-bedding them.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
you can try turning them/machining them...
or you can try re-bedding them.
I believe we machined these rotors before due to the same problem, but then they still shook after a short period of time.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Perdomes
I believe we machined these rotors before due to the same problem, but then they still shook after a short period of time.
so in that case, yes...you tried everything you could...
but that was only one rotor, you said you went through MULTIPLE!
LOL ive been here for 7 years and I'm still using a set of rotors from XLR8..
BUT from now on, I'm grabbing the autozone rotors...for $70 bucks!!!! thats an awesome deal!
I dont ever want to spend $240 on a set of rotors.

when you get new rotors, you NEED to do the bed-in procedure. this will HELP them from getting out of shape
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
so in that case, yes...you tried everything you could...
but that was only one rotor, you said you went through MULTIPLE!
LOL ive been here for 7 years and I'm still using a set of rotors from XLR8..
BUT from now on, I'm grabbing the autozone rotors...for $70 bucks!!!! thats an awesome deal!
I dont ever want to spend $240 on a set of rotors.

when you get new rotors, you NEED to do the bed-in procedure. this will HELP them from getting out of shape
Yeah, I don't mind paying the $240 knowing that these will last me a lot longer and will cause me less problems or mishaps in the future. I'll just pay $240 for now just follow your lead into the $70 deal after these stop functioning. I do appreciate the advice and the info on the rotors.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:36 PM
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^if you dont do the bed-in process, your $240's will be shit too!!!
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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I will make sure the bed-in process is done, I won't let these rotors go to waste. No worries, thanks a lot
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 10:33 PM
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I've had the powerstop rotors for 6yrs now, no issues. You can buy a set & hopefully that will fix your issue, if could be just your driving style. If you get rotors, might as well get pads & SS lines.
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 10:59 PM
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I put EBC rotors(non slotted, non drilled) and Haek HPS pads on my 05 and they work great. Car stops hard enough to hurt you. Ive never had the brakes overheat and they work great. Super quiet and reletively low dust. Cant imaging needing powerstops or stoptech brakes on a TL. Maybe a corvette that sees a track, but on a TL its overkill.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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Just got installed the rotors this morning and did the bed-in. They are amazing and work really well. Gonna make these babies last.
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Perdomes
Just got installed the rotors this morning and did the bed-in. They are amazing and work really well. Gonna make these babies last.
Did you go with the Power Stop's? I did the rear rotors and pads recently because one of the rotors was scored and was squealing at low speeds braking. Went with Power Stop. I like the way they look and 3 months in, they still look good, no rust on them at all. I believe I paid $120 for both rotors and pads from RockAuto.

Gonna be putting wheels on soon and thinking of doing the fronts for aesthetic purposes cuz the stockies look like doo-doo and because #racecar. I will probably hold off for awhile because the pads and rotors look like they have a good amount of life left.

Good to hear you're satisfied with yours.
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 05:03 PM
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Machining rotors can put you at, or close to, minimum fitment. Then if that's the case by the next set of pads they'll be too thin and you'll have to purchase rotors anyway.

StopTech truly makes a quality product! They've earned awards for performance and durability, to proper fitment and ease of installation. StopTech rotors with AeroVane design can move air better than stock brake rotors. Better airflow means better cooling, and better cooling means less brake fade. They're definitely a better (not cheaper, but better) performing alternative to any OEM or Autozone rotor.

Feel free to PM me for questions or for quotes!
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 08:24 PM
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i buy stoptech or centric rotors (same company, one is the "performance" side) for all my cars...they are great quality at a good price and brakes are one of the things you don't want to cheap out on. i don't buy their brake pads any more because they dust too much and i found akebonos stop as well or better with almost no dust, but for rotors my vote is stoptechs/centric!!
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 04:40 PM
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buy blank centric rotor and call it a day, don't worry about the fancy slotted or slotted and drilled they are waste of money. You only need the slotted if you plan to bring the car to even like SCCA or something in that nature, even then you will need to change the brake fluid and track pads, street pad will only last you about 4 laps.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:22 AM
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Centric blanks. Inexpensive and high quality.
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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
i buy stoptech or centric rotors (same company, one is the "performance" side) for all my cars...they are great quality at a good price and brakes are one of the things you don't want to cheap out on. i don't buy their brake pads any more because they dust too much and i found akebonos stop as well or better with almost no dust, but for rotors my vote is stoptechs/centric!!
What specific Akebonos do you have on your car? I'm thinking about getting akebonos for my Type S
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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 08:14 PM
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^^^^if I am not mistaken its the yellow.
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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nismotypeS
What specific Akebonos do you have on your car? I'm thinking about getting akebonos for my Type S
Asp1001 for the brembos. Asp536 for the rear (you can also get act536 which is cheaper)
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 08:45 PM
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From: HERE
After I learned how to do brakes myself properly over the years, I've found that most of the time, the sense of "warped" rotors or pedal pulsation are really:
- pad deposits on the rotors' surfaces
- either upper or lower slider pins is moving in faster than the other due to lack of lubrication / silicone paste on one of the pins or rust bleed-through into the caliper bracket's cavities for the slider pins
- hub surface not cleaned and free of rust when mounting new rotors
- pads not bedded in properly or not bedded in at all

I have used powerstop rotors, and they didn't yield any difference. Drilled or slotted while retaining the stock rotor size, you are just paying more for nothing. In fact, there is less cast iron for heat dissipation. High performance cars compensate for this by using very large rotors with greater surface areas while having drilled holes. What you need is Centric high carbon, that's the most you need for a daily application, even when braking HARD. Go for the cryo series if you'd like. You must have done your brake jobs wrong in the past, I know I did. I once mounted a brand new rotor with just a very thin layer of rust still on the wheel hub's surface, which translated to a huge runout, causing the pulsation. You also need to service the slider pins and clean around the pistons every 6 months, this helps tremendously in preventing seized pistons and slider pins. But let us know how you like the powerstops in a few months.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 05:23 AM
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I read through this, looks like Im going with them auto zone blanks and pads!

No need to go fast slow down
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 03:12 AM
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After going through tones of texts, I've just bought centric set on RockAuto - high carbon plane rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads front and rear. It would arrive in 2 months. I will share my thoughts & feelings.
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mariusz439
After going through tones of texts, I've just bought centric set on RockAuto - high carbon plane rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads front and rear. It would arrive in 2 months. I will share my thoughts & feelings.
Now I can state it was really good choice.
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 01:31 PM
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I've had the powerstops on the front of mine for a couple years now. They work fine. They seem to make a little grumbling noise when braking medium-hard. I assumed this was from the pad material ever so slightly being forced into the slots when they come around. I don't notice it at all on medium stops and emergency stops, just those quicker than usual stops. Same thing happens on my odyssey with powerstops. But braking performance has been just fine.

Before I put on the powerstops I did not even know you were supposed to bed the pads in. Probably part of why my cars had frequently developed braking issues that felt like rotor warp.
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