Pin-out diagrams !!! Please Help!!
 

Ok,

So I am in the middle of talking with boomslang, and I am going to get an AEM FI/C for my car.... First, i will be doing an N/A tune... and if the FI/C works well, then i just may be going for the supercharger

So, Boomslang is willing to work on the harness, but they asked for the pin-outs. He said they currently have the 07 TL-P information, but need the 08 TL-S info.

Anybody have this??

Thanks

Buy the Electrical Service manual from Helms... it's only like $40... and you will always find a use for it... or sell it on feEbay after you finished with it...

what exact pinouts are you looking and is this for m/t or a/t, ill post them once i know which ones you want.

Never mind i figured it out that you have a/t so pm me your email address and ill email you the files since the jpegs are to small to see anything i would post and you can zoom in on the pdf's for better viewing.

I have boomslang's harness for my 04 and it hooked up just fine. What are you trying to get the FI/C to do for you?

^ I want to see its "tune-a-bility" for my car N/A.... Adjust the A/F (i run a little lean in higher RPMs)... see if can work with injector pulse length/width to deliver more fuel, MAP/MAF and all that crap (not sure what really does, but i know its important)

Hopefully i can squeeze a few HP out of an N/A tune, but then i figured, if i know i can really tune this car and accomplish some important things, than i will be truely ready to maybe embark down the S/C route...

We've all talked about it a MILLION times, but i really want to be able to do some tuning with this car....

Also, if i do go F/I, i know the FI/C can work with advancing/retarding timing and VTEC adjustment... (correct me if i'm wrong ussi)

and lastly, the FI/C should allow me to accomplish everything the comptech ACM does, but on a tuneable level so i can make the neccesary adjustments....

.. one step at a time... hopefully with the stuff we found out from subsonic_man and s_heng_62, we really can get this car boosted.... SAFELY... keyword, SAFELY

AT1183@aol.com... if you have it, that would be awesome.. it's an 08 5AT TL-S

email sent.

You'll only be able to retard the timing, for whatever reason it doesn't allow you to advance it, the ecu just corrects it. That's the reason I was asking because you do have tuning features with the FI/C but it is limited. I'm only using it to get more fuel from the injectors. No doubt it can't hurt since you're already running slightly lean...

dude i was about to order either the e-manage or the fi/c LOL. im really curious about the a/f ratios i currently have, i want to add a gauge but 1 gauge is kinda homo, and id rather get instant a/f readings for different driving, as opposed to the dyno a/f

The 3G TL will probably always run lean in the higher power band when you are fully bolted on.... more air, but not more fuel = lean

all dynos on both the UA6 & UA7 that i have done, i always end up in the 11.x's towards the higher end when VTEC engages

ussi... help me out a little here, since you know more... when boosting this car, we need to "RETARD" timing, not advance it, right? but if you are N/A, its the other way around?

i just want to play around with A/F, timing stuff.. to get a nice N/A tune and see what the FI/C is capable of

I can also change my VTEC points with the FI/C, right? its great for you boosted folks, but lowering the engagement point a little bit, with help with that "low-end-torque-lag" we all have on our cars. ESPECIALLY with the pre-cat deletes

if you are for real, maybe we can get a deal on two harnesses... since you are an 08 Type-S 5AT too

yeah im down. how much? and which part # for the fi/c?

honestly, im leaning more towards turbo'ing my car. did u read the vistor message i left u?

To get more fuel why not bigger fuel injectors? There was a post that some one was doing custom made injectors.

I think you have the right idea. I'm sure while i was getting my hondata tune that timing was pulled and added back as 'safe' :ugh:. I know the ecu tries to compensate within it's "range" but when/if you get a blower you'll need this as well. I just hope you get all the parameters you need blown - vtec point etc. I don't know about the other 3.5L S/c, but I would assume his biggest issue was fuel. Have you thought about putting an m90 on your car? I know someone is developing this :yum:

yea, i know the guy in the 2G forums was building an M90... however, im pretty sure he is in for over $10k... that kind of investment, ill trade my car in for an E92...

i figured, $150 harness and $300 FI/C to start..... i am sure for $450 i can squeeze a few HP out of my N/A engine.... the super charger, would only be purchased used (i cant justify spending $4k+ on a "hunch" that it will work)


btw... whats your C/R ? if you went all forged OEM (RL piston etc) you are probably at like 10.5?

hey wanderer was just mentioning to me he would sell the boomslang harness and greddy blue... pm him

just confused why boomslang needs the pinouts if they already made a pnp for him

when he purchased his I remember he said they told him the 07 ecu pinout are the same for all years

^ i am going AEM FI/C

when you find a difference between them let me know, fic has a ton of possible parameters which none are compatible with the tl... good luck tho...

no, there is a guy on "the other accord forum" (since my post got blocked - gay) developing a "kit" for J series motors using rebuilt m90s. His projected cost per kit is under 2500 which is reeeeediculous!

^ ya know.... we all talk about the M62 doesnt make enough for power for the 3.2L, let alone the 3.5L engine... BUT wouldnt an M90 provide alot of boost, which our engines cant seem to handle anyways on stock internals....

in another thread, it was mentioned that the cobalt ss (2.0L I-4) uses an M62 blower... probably making like 8-9lbs of boost...

When we start putting 8-9lbs of boost on the J series motor, we all seem to blow our engines!! (on stock internals)

I dont know if i am ready to start building my engine... honestly, the car is too damn new!! Its a 2008 $40k car... do i REALLY wanna start ripping about the block and frankensteining a 3.7L stroker kit and running like 10lbs of boost... its my daily driver (300-500 miles per week)

I would honestly be happy with the M62, tuned PROPERLY so that i can get that great s/c'ed whine, make a safe (330-340whp), and run low boost (4-5lbs)



I got the Pinouts over to Boomslang and they are working on it... BIG THANKS TO WRXYBOY he got me those pin outs in a couple of minutes




Question to some of the gurus... WHICH AEM FI/C should i buy ???

uggghhh

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/emanage-blue-aem-fic-687190/

people are saying the AEM FI/C can not advance timing.... so since I want to do this N/A first, its pretty useless.... The Greddy combo cant retard timing either...

The FI/C is the better of the piggybacks available for our car, but unless your F/I... its pretty useless... FI/C does allow VTEC adjustment, but i have no true need to do that yet, unless i install the S/C

Good luck with the tune and i cant wait to see how much you can squeeze out. I been wanting to do this but the cost to improvement ratio is to little and once you start it will keep you up at nites trying to figure it out. I will be following this closely.

very smart Allon, I am going to keept the boost, but not beat on the car for atleast 3-4k miles so the new heads and gasket can set in nicely. The internals were in perfect condition, thus making me believe the s/c was not the cul[rit in the damage. Good luck.

yikes....$239 for the harness.... 2-3 days to build

Boomslang recommends using the FIC 1910 box

Sean (04accordcpe) i need your input!!!

contact Matt at 555 motorsports, http://www.555motorsports.net/ he recommended something to me but i cant remember and he does open source tuning. Which makes it easy to tune via the internet.

but he did recommend the AEM IF/C

I think I paid around that..or maybe 10 bucks less. I also have the 1910. My clutchmaster's clutch "broke", but they did warranty it. My car should be back today :wish:.

\

So basically, are you saying that instead of the ACM that comes with SC we should use the AEM FIC 30-1910 Piggyback Controller Computer

black hit me up i got ur info on the schematics.

the comptech ACM is fine to use for the 3.2L s/c'ed folks... however, if you want to get a "better" tune, maybe eliminate some of the surging, i would recommended going this route

the FI/C wont be MUCH for the N/A people, but it can help deliver more fuel... this my current problem once i go into VTEC, my car runs lean...(11.x a/f) .... bigger injectors, and more fuel will be a start.. i am sure i can squeeze at least 10 peak whp out of a tune... the question is, where the hell do i find a tuner to do this....

Thanks George... I already got the ECU pinouts to boomslang, and i think i am going to have them fabricate the harness and buy the FI/C... as SOON as i find out where the hell i can find reliable, AEM authorized tuner on the island or in queens

Allon, talk to AL, I will tune with you to be safe...

11.x is lean?? what are you trying to get?? That sounds fine to me.

anythink under would be considered lean^^^^ correct, I was running 12.5 b4 pcd...

I'm interested to see how this plays out, I'm a complete noob when it comes to tuning. But, allon you've got really nice numbers so far, what are you trying to reach?

i thought 12.5 was ideal... im gonna go run out into my car and check my dyno sheets again (i keep them all in my car :rofl:)

Well, 300whp would be nice... but thats not really want i am getting at...

we all bolt on these exhaust mods, and intakes and crap.. and we've really increased the air... now wheres the fuel??

I think if i bite the bullet and do this, i will start with RSX-S injectors and do a tune to add some more fuel into the engine

ohhh wait, OK, i think i got my lean/rich shit all mixed....

Rich, is below 14.7 , right? lean is over 14.7 ??

My last two dynos (before and after pre-cat deletes)

273whp, hits about 12 A/F at 4500RPM...and drops below 12 at 5000... lowest it hits 11.5 at peak power

293whp, hits about 13 A/F at 4500RPM...and drops to about 12.5 in the peak range

So, If i am running, Rich.. then i have too much fuel in the engine? somebody correct me here if i'm wrong

14.7 Is the ideal a/f to get the best MPG which is what the factory ECU tries to calibrate when under normal conditions. When i was tuning my STI i was aiming for 10.8 a/f at 30psi. So 11.5 is still on the rich side.