NGK Iridium 6994 - Plugs
#1
NGK Iridium 6994 - Plugs
Hey all,
Just found a great deal, if anyone is on the market for new OEM plugs...
1. Go to advanceautoparts.com and search "6994". Should bring this up.
2. Add 6 to your cart.
3. Enter promo code: P20 This takes 20% off the total.
4. PICK IT UP at the nearest advance auto to you and you save on shipping too.
I just paid $8 a pop plus tax. Total for 6 = $51.85
Cheapest anywhere else I can find is $9.85 each on rockauto.com PLUS SHIPPING.
Enjoy
Just found a great deal, if anyone is on the market for new OEM plugs...
1. Go to advanceautoparts.com and search "6994". Should bring this up.
2. Add 6 to your cart.
3. Enter promo code: P20 This takes 20% off the total.
4. PICK IT UP at the nearest advance auto to you and you save on shipping too.
I just paid $8 a pop plus tax. Total for 6 = $51.85
Cheapest anywhere else I can find is $9.85 each on rockauto.com PLUS SHIPPING.
Enjoy
#6
#7
use code big25 for $25 off $60, i added something small (a tire pressure gauge to get it above $60), so less than $40 for 6 plugs , will pick these up tomorrow. the code said it expire 8/11, but i just tried it and still work. how long can these plugs run for before having to change them again?
thanks.
thanks.
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#9
use code big25 for $25 off $60, i added something small (a tire pressure gauge to get it above $60), so less than $40 for 6 plugs , will pick these up tomorrow. the code said it expire 8/11, but i just tried it and still work. how long can these plugs run for before having to change them again?
thanks.
thanks.
now THAT is an amazing deal!... ordering mine now
#14
use code big25 for $25 off $60, i added something small (a tire pressure gauge to get it above $60), so less than $40 for 6 plugs , will pick these up tomorrow. the code said it expire 8/11, but i just tried it and still work. how long can these plugs run for before having to change them again?
thanks.
thanks.
#16
I never saw this post when i did mine, I purchased 3 cans of seafoam, set of spark plugs and a few othe things. I ended up paying $6 per plug and $4-something for each can of seafoam. It was a pretty good buy. They run online specials like this all the time.
#17
you can do that, if you want your engine to run like crap.
I never saw this post when i did mine, I purchased 3 cans of seafoam, set of spark plugs and a few othe things. I ended up paying $6 per plug and $4-something for each can of seafoam. It was a pretty good buy. They run online specials like this all the time.
I never saw this post when i did mine, I purchased 3 cans of seafoam, set of spark plugs and a few othe things. I ended up paying $6 per plug and $4-something for each can of seafoam. It was a pretty good buy. They run online specials like this all the time.
#19
#20
#22
Leaving plugs in an aluminum head for that long is scary. I've seen them remove the threads from the head before. Plus you get to see what's going on inside the combustion chamber more often.
#26
Gimmick plugs with more than one electrode, an air gap, or whatever are junk.
#27
Not even a little. Use iridiums if you plan on following the factory interval. Regular plugs will work fine if you change every 40,000 or less. I personally run regular plugs in mine and have for a long time.
Gimmick plugs with more than one electrode, an air gap, or whatever are junk.
Gimmick plugs with more than one electrode, an air gap, or whatever are junk.
Honda designed the motor/working parts as the plugs to be used together for a reason, I am sure they burn hotter, or there IS a diff. between the cheapy plugs and the expensive iridium plugs, other wise Honda would follow suit and follow your stance on which plugs to use and cut costs, vs. using a more expensive plug.
Where does your info come from? can you prove that using the cheap plugs makes no diff? and if so why isnt Honda as smart as you?
#28
hmmmm... not being argumentative, more so inquisitive yet skeptical of your claims.
Honda designed the motor/working parts as the plugs to be used together for a reason, I am sure they burn hotter, or there IS a diff. between the cheapy plugs and the expensive iridium plugs, other wise Honda would follow suit and follow your stance on which plugs to use and cut costs, vs. using a more expensive plug.
Where does your info come from? can you prove that using the cheap plugs makes no diff? and if so why isnt Honda as smart as you?
Honda designed the motor/working parts as the plugs to be used together for a reason, I am sure they burn hotter, or there IS a diff. between the cheapy plugs and the expensive iridium plugs, other wise Honda would follow suit and follow your stance on which plugs to use and cut costs, vs. using a more expensive plug.
Where does your info come from? can you prove that using the cheap plugs makes no diff? and if so why isnt Honda as smart as you?
Plugs don't "burn" hotter or cooler, their purpose is to make a spark and that's it. A hotter plug will run hotter (the body and center electrode) but that has nothing to do with the spark. You want the plug to run hot enough that you don't get carbon buildup on the plug but not so hot that it causes pre-ignition. The heat range is just that. The material it's made of has nothing to do with heat range. You can get a normal plug that's hotter than an iridium plug.
The purpose of iridium plugs is to extend the plug change interval, that's it.
Iridium is extremely resistant to spark erosion so you don't have to worry about the gap widening over time or just burning off completely. It's a worthwhile investment for a big car company so they can advertise the car's first tune-up is at 105,000 miles. I will never go this long on a plug change on an aluminum headed engine. If you've ever had the plug rip the threads out of the heads when you pull them out you will understand.
I've tried all of the gimmick plugs starting way back with splitfires. I've put plugs through some of the worse abuse in the GN at over 100hp per cylinder at 30psi boost. Plain old regular plugs always held up to abuse better. Extreme cylinder pressures are a true test of a plug, it will show their faults very quickly. Some of the gimmick plugs flat out wouldn't fire under high boost. Many made it more prone to detonation. While they won't do the same in the TL you can bet they deliver a weaker spark and will be more likely to misfire.
#31
I tried those Zex plugs and they were total junk. Going back to a standard iridium made a huge difference.
In our TL, what is the purpose of the resistor? In the old days it was for noise suppression but I read that it could be for the electronics.
In our TL, what is the purpose of the resistor? In the old days it was for noise suppression but I read that it could be for the electronics.
#32
It's good to have the turbo TL around. Whatever works in your car will work in a NA TL. IMO, you will find a plug's weakness long before a NA TL will.
#33
I know it from years of research and I've been running normal plugs for years in the TL. The current ones have about 40,000 miles and are about to get swapped out. I think I paid $12 total for them and the performance is every bit as good as the iridiums.
Plugs don't "burn" hotter or cooler, their purpose is to make a spark and that's it. A hotter plug will run hotter (the body and center electrode) but that has nothing to do with the spark. You want the plug to run hot enough that you don't get carbon buildup on the plug but not so hot that it causes pre-ignition. The heat range is just that. The material it's made of has nothing to do with heat range. You can get a normal plug that's hotter than an iridium plug.
The purpose of iridium plugs is to extend the plug change interval, that's it.
Iridium is extremely resistant to spark erosion so you don't have to worry about the gap widening over time or just burning off completely. It's a worthwhile investment for a big car company so they can advertise the car's first tune-up is at 105,000 miles. I will never go this long on a plug change on an aluminum headed engine. If you've ever had the plug rip the threads out of the heads when you pull them out you will understand.
I've tried all of the gimmick plugs starting way back with splitfires. I've put plugs through some of the worse abuse in the GN at over 100hp per cylinder at 30psi boost. Plain old regular plugs always held up to abuse better. Extreme cylinder pressures are a true test of a plug, it will show their faults very quickly. Some of the gimmick plugs flat out wouldn't fire under high boost. Many made it more prone to detonation. While they won't do the same in the TL you can bet they deliver a weaker spark and will be more likely to misfire.
Plugs don't "burn" hotter or cooler, their purpose is to make a spark and that's it. A hotter plug will run hotter (the body and center electrode) but that has nothing to do with the spark. You want the plug to run hot enough that you don't get carbon buildup on the plug but not so hot that it causes pre-ignition. The heat range is just that. The material it's made of has nothing to do with heat range. You can get a normal plug that's hotter than an iridium plug.
The purpose of iridium plugs is to extend the plug change interval, that's it.
Iridium is extremely resistant to spark erosion so you don't have to worry about the gap widening over time or just burning off completely. It's a worthwhile investment for a big car company so they can advertise the car's first tune-up is at 105,000 miles. I will never go this long on a plug change on an aluminum headed engine. If you've ever had the plug rip the threads out of the heads when you pull them out you will understand.
I've tried all of the gimmick plugs starting way back with splitfires. I've put plugs through some of the worse abuse in the GN at over 100hp per cylinder at 30psi boost. Plain old regular plugs always held up to abuse better. Extreme cylinder pressures are a true test of a plug, it will show their faults very quickly. Some of the gimmick plugs flat out wouldn't fire under high boost. Many made it more prone to detonation. While they won't do the same in the TL you can bet they deliver a weaker spark and will be more likely to misfire.
2."I think I paid $12 total for them and the performance is every bit as good as the iridiums." Have you put the car on a dyno or air/fuel meter to confirm this claim? or is this your OPINION? so far you still have not produced evidence other then opinion.
3. "Plugs don't "burn" hotter or cooler, their purpose is to make a spark and that's it. A hotter plug will run hotter (the body and center electrode) but that has nothing to do with the spark." ----seems completely contradictory to me, please expand to help me understand cause it dosent sound like actual evidence
4. Iridium is extremely resistant to spark erosion so you don't have to worry about the gap widening over time or just burning off completely. It's a worthwhile investment for a big car company so they can advertise the car's first tune-up is at 105,000 miles. I will never go this long on a plug change on an aluminum headed engine. If you've ever had the plug rip the threads out of the heads when you pull them out you will understand."----This I agree with but which still leaves my PERFORMANCE RESULTS/PROOF QUESTION of what seems to be your opinion based post about the lack of performance difference. where is the PROOF of your claims to show its not opinion based?
saying "I have experience isnt proof"...., also I doubt honda would use plugs way more expensive PLUGS to advertise extended periods of needed maintenance, and how can you prove that? Whats to say if that was the case they wouldnt just use the "cheaper" plugs and tell owners to change plugs more frequently effectively passing on the cost savings and increasing profit from reduced costs on Hondas behalf.
Again my main stance is can you prove that there is no performance loss with a cheap plug that indeed either runs colder or hotter as you made in the contradictory quote above.. if so then I will put the cheaper plugs in, however if not, there is a reason there are more expensive plugs, just as there is a reason there are more expensive synthetic motor oils, more expensive aftermarket parts, more expensive tires, etc... all yielding A PERFORMANCE GAIN OR LOSS VS THE CHEAPER ONES. I am asking all this to gain knowledge on wether there are benefits of performance on spending the extra $7 per plug more.
are you saying that we should inform all the F-1 teams, and ferrari manufactures and high end car makers that they should stop using better quality plugs and just use $1 plugs?
Last edited by OntheJob; 11-10-2010 at 09:30 PM.
#34
IMHO dont change or skimp out on an additional cost for your 4-6 thousand dollar motor just to save a few bucks based on what someone without any ACTUAL EVIDENCE TELLS YOU ON THE INTERNET. Until you see proof, protect your investment.
Last edited by OntheJob; 11-10-2010 at 09:42 PM.
#35
1.what was your research? was it your opinion on butt dyno or the look of a plug or some actual research which yielded actual information?
2."I think I paid $12 total for them and the performance is every bit as good as the iridiums." Have you put the car on a dyno or air/fuel meter to confirm this claim? or is this your OPINION? so far you still have not produced evidence other then opinion.
2."I think I paid $12 total for them and the performance is every bit as good as the iridiums." Have you put the car on a dyno or air/fuel meter to confirm this claim? or is this your OPINION? so far you still have not produced evidence other then opinion.
3. "Plugs don't "burn" hotter or cooler, their purpose is to make a spark and that's it. A hotter plug will run hotter (the body and center electrode) but that has nothing to do with the spark." ----seems completely contradictory to me, please expand to help me understand cause it dosent sound like actual evidence
4. Iridium is extremely resistant to spark erosion so you don't have to worry about the gap widening over time or just burning off completely. It's a worthwhile investment for a big car company so they can advertise the car's first tune-up is at 105,000 miles. I will never go this long on a plug change on an aluminum headed engine. If you've ever had the plug rip the threads out of the heads when you pull them out you will understand."----This I agree with but which still leaves my PERFORMANCE RESULTS/PROOF QUESTION of what seems to be your opinion based post about the lack of performance difference. where is the PROOF of your claims to show its not opinion based?
saying "I have experience isnt proof"...., also I doubt honda would use plugs way more expensive PLUGS to advertise extended periods of needed maintenance, and how can you prove that? Whats to say if that was the case they wouldnt just use the "cheaper" plugs and tell owners to change plugs more frequently effectively passing on the cost savings and increasing profit from reduced costs on Hondas behalf.
saying "I have experience isnt proof"...., also I doubt honda would use plugs way more expensive PLUGS to advertise extended periods of needed maintenance, and how can you prove that? Whats to say if that was the case they wouldnt just use the "cheaper" plugs and tell owners to change plugs more frequently effectively passing on the cost savings and increasing profit from reduced costs on Hondas behalf.
An expensive plug does not run hotter and a cheap plug does not run cooler. WTF? A plug is assigned a heat range no matter how much it costs.
if so then I will put the cheaper plugs in, however if not, there is a reason there are more expensive plugs, just as there is a reason there are more expensive synthetic motor oils, more expensive aftermarket parts, more expensive tires, etc... all yielding A PERFORMANCE GAIN OR LOSS VS THE CHEAPER ONES. I am asking all this to gain knowledge on wether there are benefits of performance on spending the extra $7 per plug more.
I summed it up last time. If you want to go with the factory change interval, go with iridiums. If you don't mind changing more often, go with the cheaper ones. End of story.
However you would be surprised how many 1,000+ hp cars out there use a regular off the shelf plug. Even my father's near 1,000hp GN uses off the shelf AC Delco CR42 plugs that your average work truck uses. If there was performance to be gained, he would spend the money to gain it from a plug.
To sum up, I could give a shit what you run. Google the most expensive plugs you can find and install them in your TL and get back to us with the amazing mpg and power.
#36
You're a complete idiot. Don't go around telling people a spark plug will cost them a motor. You need to be banned for saying stuff like this. You have zero comprehension of anything automotive. Go away troll.
#37
So your telling me detonation from improper plugs which could cause piston failure isnt possible?
And why are you getting personal "idiot" thats offensive, not to mention if you cant have an intelligent debate without the name calling them maybe you should be banned.
#38
Because this is not an intelligent debate. This is an automotive tragedy. You may think it's a good debate based on your knowledge level but in reality you're just annoying. It's fine to not know much but when you think you know everything and you come on here trying to call me out I could care less about helping you. As I said get whatever you want, base your plug choice on price alone, I don't care.
#39
Son of a bitch! How about taking a more humble approach and realizing you don't understand everything instead of trying to call me out.
My experience is my proof. I don't need Google or someone else to tell me what I've experienced. Unlike you, I get out there and try things. I don't have to rely on others or manufacturers recommendations.
Your attitude is starting to get annoying.
An expensive plug does not run hotter and a cheap plug does not run cooler. WTF? A plug is assigned a heat range no matter how much it costs.
However you would be surprised how many 1,000+ hp cars out there use a regular off the shelf plug. Even my father's near 1,000hp GN uses off the shelf AC Delco CR42 plugs that your average work truck uses. If there was performance to be gained, he would spend the money to gain it from a plug.
To sum up, I could give a shit what you run. Google the most expensive plugs you can find and install them in your TL and get back to us with the amazing mpg and power.
My experience is my proof. I don't need Google or someone else to tell me what I've experienced. Unlike you, I get out there and try things. I don't have to rely on others or manufacturers recommendations.
Your attitude is starting to get annoying.
An expensive plug does not run hotter and a cheap plug does not run cooler. WTF? A plug is assigned a heat range no matter how much it costs.
However you would be surprised how many 1,000+ hp cars out there use a regular off the shelf plug. Even my father's near 1,000hp GN uses off the shelf AC Delco CR42 plugs that your average work truck uses. If there was performance to be gained, he would spend the money to gain it from a plug.
To sum up, I could give a shit what you run. Google the most expensive plugs you can find and install them in your TL and get back to us with the amazing mpg and power.
2. Experience is not proof sir, proof is if the glove fits or not, if the dna is the same, if power was yielding or lost, proof is hard evidence that your claims telling people to put cheap plugs in their cars against Hondas advice is not dangerous. All I am trying to do is have an open forum for welcome debate on an issue weather there truly is a diff. or not.
3. The compression and motors are diff. from your GN vs. a high compression honda motor, I am trying to determine if you understand that, and that a cheaper plug although heat range may be the same, because of the materials used in production actually produce a better spark.
4. If there were issues with a cars ignition and for the sake of this debate the plug topic, the air/fuel mixture coming out of the pipe would tell you wether your too lean or rich... not sure if you knew how dyno's and air/fuel "meter" or whatever you would like to refer to it as, actually works. Cause thats what it tells you.
Above you stated if a plug if too hot or cold it could ignite the mixture before the spark... well the "spark" works off of "timing" and if you put the wrong plug in a car, or a cheap one that wont perform as good as the others as recommended by Honda you could have "detonation" which does over time, cause piston failure... so tell me again why I should be banned for telling someone to protect their investment?
Maybe the GN forums or most people or I should say "sheep" are too blind to think for themselves, but opinions are not fact, nor is experience.
Last edited by OntheJob; 11-10-2010 at 10:31 PM.
#40
With the wrong heat range which has nothing to do with iridium vs plain jane. Stick to the topic at hand instead of trying to win an argument at all costs.
Because this is not an intelligent debate. This is an automotive tragedy. You may think it's a good debate based on your knowledge level but in reality you're just annoying. It's fine to not know much but when you think you know everything and you come on here trying to call me out I could care less about helping you. As I said get whatever you want, base your plug choice on price alone, I don't care.
Because this is not an intelligent debate. This is an automotive tragedy. You may think it's a good debate based on your knowledge level but in reality you're just annoying. It's fine to not know much but when you think you know everything and you come on here trying to call me out I could care less about helping you. As I said get whatever you want, base your plug choice on price alone, I don't care.
2. I dont think I know everything, and in fact the person who happens to claim on every single performance based post, with use of proposed FACT is you, not me sir. So the know it all is who again?
3. If you re-read what I have been writing the debate is a hypothetical debate aimed at your opinion to help me understand why and how. If you cant comprehend reading sentences then I cant help that... however I didnt mean to annoy you.... Im simply having a hypothetical debate on your opinion, and not trying to discredit your experience. Its called objective reasoning... get an education and you would learn that.
Last edited by OntheJob; 11-10-2010 at 10:33 PM.