Need help changing spark plugs
12-23-2010, 12:23 PM
#1
2005 Acura TL w/ Navi
Thread Starter
Need help changing spark plugs
I have never changed out my spark plugs yet on my 05 TL (60k miles on it) and thought it would be a good idea to change them now (this will be my first time changing spark plugs ever as im inexperienced doing this). Is there a DIY on how to change them out with pictures (couldnt find anything using the search), I know its fairly easy but I like to refer to something incase I need it? do they need to be torque'd to a certain spec or is snug fine? I want to replace my spark plugs using the NGK Laser Iridiums (6994).
12-23-2010, 12:24 PM
#2
There is a lot of great info in the 3G Service Dept: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
Here you go: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/122-diy-105k-service-timing-belt-water-pump-spark-plugs-thermostat-%2Apics%2A-784622/
Here you go: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/122-diy-105k-service-timing-belt-water-pump-spark-plugs-thermostat-%2Apics%2A-784622/
I also got a great deal on some new plugs.
12-23-2010, 01:19 PM
#5
2005 Acura TL w/ Navi
Thread Starter
yea i agree with princelybug, but also i heard a lot of horror stories if left in for the 100k mark they may become seized - also changing them early or more often can give you a better look as to whats going on inside your engine
12-23-2010, 01:39 PM
#6
Team Owner
The big thing to remember is to check the gap with a feeler gauge. So far I've only had one that was off but it's good to check it anyway. Always use anti-seize on the threads. It will make is much easier the next time you do a change.
When I did my first plug change I experienced a slightly better cold idle and I did mine around 40K if I remember right.
Don't stress over the type of plug. Buying OEM plugs will always work great but at 60,000 mile intervals you can get away with a cheaper platinum plug too. The only reason for going with iridium is to get that 100,000 mile capability. They all start out life the same but the iridiums degrade less over time. I'm personally running regular $2 plugs in mine with no change in performance. They've been in roughly 40,000 miles. I'll wait until I pull them out or put a few more miles on them before I recommend them to the short change interval guys. But again, you can't go wrong with OEM plugs. I don't want this to turn into a plug debate so I'll leave it at that.
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12-23-2010, 09:04 PM
#9
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Very nice! ft spec are 14ft/lbs
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
12-23-2010, 10:42 PM
#10
Race Director
12-25-2010, 10:27 PM
#13
2005 Acura TL w/ Navi
Thread Starter
12-26-2010, 04:33 PM
#14
2005 Acura TL w/ Navi
Thread Starter
some people say you dont need to torque them to spec usually just a 1/4 - 1/2 turn more then when snug does the trick, but then others say you must torque them bc of heating issues - if tighten too much you can cross thread and damage engine internals..if its too loose it may not get hot enough etc.. what do you guys think? i just like knowing everything 100% before going into something ive never done before, sorry if this has been posted before.
12-26-2010, 05:26 PM
#16
12-26-2010, 07:48 PM
#17
Race Director
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Remove the front tower strut bar while replacing the spark plugs.
Makes accessing the rear spark plugs so much easier.
Unplugging the coils and removing the front tower strut bar (rusted and damaged bolts) were the hardest for me lol.
Makes accessing the rear spark plugs so much easier.
Unplugging the coils and removing the front tower strut bar (rusted and damaged bolts) were the hardest for me lol.
12-29-2010, 12:12 PM
#19
Race Director
Very nice! ft spec are 14ft/lbs
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
and the strut bar nuts are 21 ft/lbs.
Getting ready to change my plugs, can you tell??
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-29-2010 at 12:16 PM.
12-29-2010, 12:47 PM
#20
Team Owner
For aluminum headed engines I just grab the ratchet up by the socket and snug it up. For iron heads I grab it just a little more toward the handle. Once you throw a swivel in the mix the torque spec no longer works. Keep that in mind, depending on the angle, a swivel can reduce torque.
01-13-2011, 10:30 AM
#21
Racer
Very nice! ft spec are 14ft/lbs
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
You will need the flex head sparkplug remover. I just did it today. My friend did the front and I did the rear. The rear is a pain in the butt. I would suggest you let the car cool down for an hour or 2 before starting.
I am trying out the Denso TT and so far so good. But I recommend just sticking with the oem laser iridium.
My car had 75k.
1. Is that needed only if you do not remove the tower bar?
2. If I do need it (planning on removing the bar) where should I buy one? I did a quick search and they were about $50 bucks for one. Seems kinda steep...
01-15-2011, 10:00 PM
#22
Racer
This is why you change the spark plugs way before the recommended 105k. My car is at 109K.
I definitely noticed a smoother, better overall cold idle. There was a slight knock before I changed them when the engine had been sitting, but not anymore.
01-16-2011, 01:11 PM
#23
2005 AM at/navi
Nevermind, I got em changed.
This is why you change the spark plugs way before the recommended 105k. My car is at 109K.
I definitely noticed a smoother, better overall cold idle. There was a slight knock before I changed them when the engine had been sitting, but not anymore.
This is why you change the spark plugs way before the recommended 105k. My car is at 109K.
I definitely noticed a smoother, better overall cold idle. There was a slight knock before I changed them when the engine had been sitting, but not anymore.
i changed mine using two extensions and removing the bar. it seriously took less than 30 mins all together.
01-17-2011, 12:03 PM
#24
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Don't stress over the type of plug. Buying OEM plugs will always work great but at 60,000 mile intervals you can get away with a cheaper platinum plug too. The only reason for going with iridium is to get that 100,000 mile capability. They all start out life the same but the iridiums degrade less over time. I'm personally running regular $2 plugs in mine with no change in performance. They've been in roughly 40,000 miles. I'll wait until I pull them out or put a few more miles on them before I recommend them to the short change interval guys. But again, you can't go wrong with OEM plugs. I don't want this to turn into a plug debate so I'll leave it at that.
Don't stress over the type of plug. Buying OEM plugs will always work great but at 60,000 mile intervals you can get away with a cheaper platinum plug too. The only reason for going with iridium is to get that 100,000 mile capability. They all start out life the same but the iridiums degrade less over time. I'm personally running regular $2 plugs in mine with no change in performance. They've been in roughly 40,000 miles. I'll wait until I pull them out or put a few more miles on them before I recommend them to the short change interval guys. But again, you can't go wrong with OEM plugs. I don't want this to turn into a plug debate so I'll leave it at that.
01-20-2011, 11:19 PM
#25
I've seen a few Accords at 50k miles with plugs that bad. After that, I began to change my plugs out at around 50-60k religously. Even if the plugs cost you a little, it's worth the change. This is one of those jobs that is actually fun with a little element of danger because it's like your changing the cars neurotransmitters.
02-02-2011, 05:40 PM
#27
Race Director
^^^looks like a used plug. As long as the gap is still good, that's still a good plug...
I pulled my plugs at 106.5K and the gap was still perfect (0.044"). Old plugs were not seized at all. Use a little anti-seize on the new plugs. Couldn't tell any difference with the new plugs....Probably could've gone another 50K or more on those plugs....
You don't need a swivel. For the back plugs, use two 3" extensions along with a spark plug socket (with rubber grommet). Heater hose is to start the thread on the new plugs.
I pulled my plugs at 106.5K and the gap was still perfect (0.044"). Old plugs were not seized at all. Use a little anti-seize on the new plugs. Couldn't tell any difference with the new plugs....Probably could've gone another 50K or more on those plugs....
You don't need a swivel. For the back plugs, use two 3" extensions along with a spark plug socket (with rubber grommet). Heater hose is to start the thread on the new plugs.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 02-02-2011 at 05:50 PM.
02-02-2011, 05:47 PM
#28
Team Owner
Wrong. There is another piece to the puzzle you're overlooking.
03-16-2011, 12:46 AM
#29
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