Is my clutch on the way out?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Is my clutch on the way out?
Currently my car is at 162,000km and still on its original clutch. A couple days ago, for the first time since buying the car I did some spirited driving with a friend. I am not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure my clutch was slipping and here's why....
While the spirited driving, after shifting into 2,3 or 4...and so on...I noticed that rpms were raising very fast but car was not. I do not think I was missing gears each time and leaving the car in neutral....but that's why I'm not 100 percent on this.
However, immediately after I noticed that the clutch feel became much stiffer. Meaning when I press down on the clutch now it feels tighter and requires more pressure to engage. And finally, the clutch also disengages very quickly. I used to be able to let off it slowly, but now its almost as if I have no room to disengage and it does so very early on...
Based on this info, which I kno isn't a ton..what are your thoughts? Could it be possible that my clutch line just needs an adjustment?
While the spirited driving, after shifting into 2,3 or 4...and so on...I noticed that rpms were raising very fast but car was not. I do not think I was missing gears each time and leaving the car in neutral....but that's why I'm not 100 percent on this.
However, immediately after I noticed that the clutch feel became much stiffer. Meaning when I press down on the clutch now it feels tighter and requires more pressure to engage. And finally, the clutch also disengages very quickly. I used to be able to let off it slowly, but now its almost as if I have no room to disengage and it does so very early on...
Based on this info, which I kno isn't a ton..what are your thoughts? Could it be possible that my clutch line just needs an adjustment?
#3
08 TL type-S
Yes, I had the same thing happen. If your car revs without catching when shifting, the clutch is slipping. My TL-S went from very responsive and fast to a slow moving TL! I got a new oem clutch and all is good.
#4
Pro
Currently my car is at 162,000km and still on its original clutch. A couple days ago, for the first time since buying the car I did some spirited driving with a friend. I am not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure my clutch was slipping and here's why....
While the spirited driving, after shifting into 2,3 or 4...and so on...I noticed that rpms were raising very fast but car was not. I do not think I was missing gears each time and leaving the car in neutral....but that's why I'm not 100 percent on this.
However, immediately after I noticed that the clutch feel became much stiffer. Meaning when I press down on the clutch now it feels tighter and requires more pressure to engage. And finally, the clutch also disengages very quickly. I used to be able to let off it slowly, but now its almost as if I have no room to disengage and it does so very early on...
Based on this info, which I kno isn't a ton..what are your thoughts? Could it be possible that my clutch line just needs an adjustment?
While the spirited driving, after shifting into 2,3 or 4...and so on...I noticed that rpms were raising very fast but car was not. I do not think I was missing gears each time and leaving the car in neutral....but that's why I'm not 100 percent on this.
However, immediately after I noticed that the clutch feel became much stiffer. Meaning when I press down on the clutch now it feels tighter and requires more pressure to engage. And finally, the clutch also disengages very quickly. I used to be able to let off it slowly, but now its almost as if I have no room to disengage and it does so very early on...
Based on this info, which I kno isn't a ton..what are your thoughts? Could it be possible that my clutch line just needs an adjustment?
Last edited by mtiaz; 04-13-2018 at 11:33 AM.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Similar symptoms over here & I'm at 165,000km - except I don't have the stiff pedal and 2nd/3rd still grabs tight. Are you going to go OEM or aftermarket? I'm trying to do more research on the LuK DMF on RockAuto to see if it's the same or very similar to the genuine Acura LuK DMF.
#6
Pro
I'm going to go oem as much as possible. Thanks to teh cl, he's given me suggestions on what else to replace during the clutch job. As far as I understand, the luk clutch kit and flywheel should work just as OEM, since majority of luk kits are rebranded. I've already read a lot of ppl on here very pleased with their orders from rock auto and how it's identical to the OEM parts.
What are you going to replace during the clutch job?
I'm doing clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, rear main seal & any of the motor/transmission mounts if they are in rough shape.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
LuK DMF is a LOT cheaper than the genuine Acura one, which is why I've been considering the LuK alternative.
What are you going to replace during the clutch job?
I'm doing clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, rear main seal & any of the motor/transmission mounts if they are in rough shape.
What are you going to replace during the clutch job?
I'm doing clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, rear main seal & any of the motor/transmission mounts if they are in rough shape.
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#8
Pro
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I'm just going to stick with luk I think. Dont kno enough about other brands and luk seems to be well reviewed
Teh cl also.mentioned that front axles nay be worth looking at
Teh cl also.mentioned that front axles nay be worth looking at
#10
Pro
I don't think I'll need axles. My car isn't lowered & is in really good shape. At 165k, I doubt they are worn. I recently had an inspection on my car & I was only advised on my front upper ball-joint and a teeny-tiny seep from my rack & pinion boot/sleeve/whatever the fuck its called.
#11
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
I just did the clutch, flywheel, axles, and all six engine and motor mounts on my car; the difference in how it drives is amazing.
#12
Pro
#13
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#15
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
- LuK Clutch kit from Amazon (kit plus shipping was a bit less than RockAuto)
- LuK Dual Mass Flywheel from RockAuto
- OEM Flywheel Bolts ordered from Bernardi Acura
- I was inclined to order new OEM axles, however, our fellow member EvilVirus had an unused set of DuraLast axles which he needed to dispose of; I took them off his hands for a nominal fee.
- I ordered all six OEM engine and transmission mounts from Bernardi Acura
- I ordered the OEM Stabilizer Bar bushings and end links from Bernardi Acura
- I ordered the rear hubs from RockAuto
Note 2: I also purchased a Self-Adjusting Clutch toolkit and coached my mechanic on how to use it.
Last edited by horseshoez; 04-14-2018 at 10:59 AM.
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Also just remembered something.....
during the spirited driving, when I noticed my clutch was slipping.....the rpms were hitting near 7-8k since I was punching it.
This happened a handful of times (about 3-4). Should I be worried about any issues arising out of this? I know it's hard to say but just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
I will add that the car has been operating normally since, besides the clutch feel and shifts...
during the spirited driving, when I noticed my clutch was slipping.....the rpms were hitting near 7-8k since I was punching it.
This happened a handful of times (about 3-4). Should I be worried about any issues arising out of this? I know it's hard to say but just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
I will add that the car has been operating normally since, besides the clutch feel and shifts...
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
- LuK Clutch kit from Amazon (kit plus shipping was a bit less than RockAuto)
- LuK Dual Mass Flywheel from RockAuto
- OEM Flywheel Bolts ordered from Bernardi Acura
- I was inclined to order new OEM axles, however, our fellow member EvilVirus had an unused set of DuraLast axles which he needed to dispose of; I took them off his hands for a nominal fee.
- I ordered all six OEM engine and transmission mounts from Bernardi Acura
- I ordered the OEM Stabilizer Bar bushings and end links from Bernardi Acura
- I ordered the rear hubs from RockAuto
Note 2: I also purchased a Self-Adjusting Clutch toolkit and coached my mechanic on how to use it.
A few questions....
-the flywheel bolts....are these necessary?
-the OEM stabilizer bar bushings and end links....what are those?
- and the rear hubs....what are those?
If you still have your part numbers from bernardi acura, would you kindly post them>
#18
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Your questions:
Flywheel Bolts -- 90011-PGE-000 -- $26.00
Rear Main Oil Seal -- 11300-RCA-A00 -- $38.40
Motor Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Right -- 50820-SEP-A12 -- $62.02
Rear -- 50810-SEP-A12 -- $141.31
Front -- 50830-SEP-A13 -- $168.11
Tranny Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Upper -- 50870-SEP-A01 -- $44.44
Front -- 50850-SEP-A12 -- $45.70
Rear -- 50860-SEP-A12 -- $104.32
Stabilizer Bar (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Bushings -- 51306-SEP-A01 $6.26
Right End Link -- 51320-SDA-A05 -- $18.47
Left End Link -- 51321-SDA-A05 -- $18.47
Rear Hubs (SKF from RockAuto):
Left & Right -- BR930383 -- $135.58
- No, flywheel bolts aren't necessary, but they are inexpensive and I don't like doing things twice
- The stabilizer bar, also known as a swaybar, keeps the car flat when lateral forces want the car to lean to one side; the bushings tend to wear over time and the bar can get a bit noisy in bumpy areas. The end links can fail or separate, so I figured while we were going to be in there anyway, hit'em while they're easy to hit.
- Rear hubs are the component which carries the rear wheel bearings and wheel studs; using my experience with my 2001 Accord, I know these can tend to get a bit noisy over time and can eventually fail. Since the car was going to be up on a lift, and since the pair was only $135, I figured why not.
Flywheel Bolts -- 90011-PGE-000 -- $26.00
Rear Main Oil Seal -- 11300-RCA-A00 -- $38.40
Motor Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Right -- 50820-SEP-A12 -- $62.02
Rear -- 50810-SEP-A12 -- $141.31
Front -- 50830-SEP-A13 -- $168.11
Tranny Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Upper -- 50870-SEP-A01 -- $44.44
Front -- 50850-SEP-A12 -- $45.70
Rear -- 50860-SEP-A12 -- $104.32
Stabilizer Bar (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Bushings -- 51306-SEP-A01 $6.26
Right End Link -- 51320-SDA-A05 -- $18.47
Left End Link -- 51321-SDA-A05 -- $18.47
Rear Hubs (SKF from RockAuto):
Left & Right -- BR930383 -- $135.58
Last edited by horseshoez; 04-14-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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MyGuti (04-14-2018)
#19
Pro
Also just remembered something.....
during the spirited driving, when I noticed my clutch was slipping.....the rpms were hitting near 7-8k since I was punching it.
This happened a handful of times (about 3-4). Should I be worried about any issues arising out of this? I know it's hard to say but just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
I will add that the car has been operating normally since, besides the clutch feel and shifts...
during the spirited driving, when I noticed my clutch was slipping.....the rpms were hitting near 7-8k since I was punching it.
This happened a handful of times (about 3-4). Should I be worried about any issues arising out of this? I know it's hard to say but just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
I will add that the car has been operating normally since, besides the clutch feel and shifts...
Drive normally until you get the clutch replaced.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
You really should've stopped punching it like that when you noticed it was slipping, also I don't think the ECU would allow you to hit 8k RPM - only can happen if you mis-shift. Fuel cut-off is right at 7000-7100RPM if I remember correctly.
Drive normally until you get the clutch replaced.
Drive normally until you get the clutch replaced.
Im not sure how high it was, but it was up there for sure. I don't drive aggressively at all, that was the first time I even opened the car up like that.
Hopefully all is well......what are your thoughts on horseshoez list of replacements mtiaz?
#21
Pro
Yeah I should've, but at first I thought maybe its because I had missed the gear/gear popped out and car was in neutral. Also adrenaline was a factor of not stopping lol.
Im not sure how high it was, but it was up there for sure. I don't drive aggressively at all, that was the first time I even opened the car up like that.
Hopefully all is well......what are your thoughts on horseshoez list of replacements mtiaz?
Im not sure how high it was, but it was up there for sure. I don't drive aggressively at all, that was the first time I even opened the car up like that.
Hopefully all is well......what are your thoughts on horseshoez list of replacements mtiaz?
Pretty comprehensive and similar to mine - my end-links/bushings are laying in my garage. Still going to pass on the axles for now & probably the rear hubs. Going to add the flywheel bolts to the list and ask if my mechanic has done a clutch on any 04-08 MT TL's and see if he requires the adjusting tool or not.
I'll probably also add Skunk2 front adjustable control arms & OEM front lower control arms.
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Nice sounds good. I think im going to pass on the hubs as well. Those US dollars add up quick after the exchange.
I was comparing the LUK kit from amazon vs rockauto.....rockauto actually seems to be cheaper, despite amazon offering free shipping.
With the rockauto you get the 5% on top, its not much, but it does help and end up costing less.
I was comparing the LUK kit from amazon vs rockauto.....rockauto actually seems to be cheaper, despite amazon offering free shipping.
With the rockauto you get the 5% on top, its not much, but it does help and end up costing less.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
any idea if the slave cylinder is made my LUK?, there is one available on rockauto...but its a LUK product....
are you guys ordering through a different vendor?
are you guys ordering through a different vendor?
#24
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#25
Pro
I think Keihin is the manufacturer for the genuine Acura part. I'll be getting the LuK DMF from RockAuto, clutch kit/mounts/tool from my local Acura dealership since they're giving me a pretty good deal and K-Tuned clutch MC and the aforementioned suspension parts from HeelToe.
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I think Keihin is the manufacturer for the genuine Acura part. I'll be getting the LuK DMF from RockAuto, clutch kit/mounts/tool from my local Acura dealership since they're giving me a pretty good deal and K-Tuned clutch MC and the aforementioned suspension parts from HeelToe.
Last edited by MyGuti; 04-14-2018 at 01:12 PM.
#27
Pro
I'm getting my work done at an indy shop.
#28
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
try and get me the discount man!
for a fellow Canadian in need
for a fellow Canadian in need
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#31
08 TL type-S
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/
try this for oem. 1/2 price of my local acura dealer
try this for oem. 1/2 price of my local acura dealer
#32
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/
try this for oem. 1/2 price of my local acura dealer
try this for oem. 1/2 price of my local acura dealer
#34
Latent car nut
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#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Nyordrms is on crack
#36
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#38
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Lol that's a low blow, I did say I wasn't sure.
#39
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#40
Pro
An important factor to question is whether or not the LuK branded clutch is made to the same quality standards and specifications as the Acura branded one. Here's my two-cents on this. When you buy Brembo-branded brake rotors/pads from Amazon or TireRack to replace the front Brembo system for example, it is a different product compared to the Brembo rotors/pads you would buy from an Acura dealership, hence the price difference.
If this apply's to the Luk vs. Acura-LuK clutch/flywheel, this is something I am not sure of. Just a thought out there.