Luk Clutch do not come preset. Come inside
#1
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Luk Clutch do not come preset. Come inside
Finally had time to post on AZ. I been MIA since I been doing tons of Maintenance on my car getting ready for a cross country move. Anyways I thought I share some stuff with everyone.
This only applies to OEM/OE clutch replacement. Does not apply to CM, XLR8, and J&R. Since they are not self-adjusting clutches.
Buy your OE replacement at Partgeeks.com
Here was how it came in the mail. 2 bearing and spine 150 shipped since I bought insurance
Now here is where the problem is
The springs are not fully compressed. This means that you will wear down your clutch faster over time since its not fully retraced. Also the range of the self-adjusting clutch is also reduced
Here is where it is marked.
After I had someone do the preset for me.
The press on all the fingers evenly.
This is the result. The spring is fully compressed and the bar is all the way to the right where it should be.
now what does this matter? It matter because most people or shop do not have the LUK pressure plate setting tool. The tool is about 1000 bucks.
Another happy 100K for this clutch.
This only applies to OE replacement. It does not apply to the CM kits since the OEM/OE are self-adjusting clutches.
As a side note. I would order replacement flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. its about 30 bucks worth, but that a small price to pay for piece of mind.
Here the tool that honda uses.
Here is video on youtube
So make sure whoever is doing your clutch knows how to do this. Or else your going to end up spending additional money in the long run cuz your clutch died early.
Autozone also has it
OEM/Self adjusting clutch tool kit (27209) | Alignment Clutch Tool | AutoZone.com
As for how no one talks about it here. I am pretty sure its not very common on honda since all the intergra, civic, and rsx use a different clutch and flywheel set up. But a lot of Euro cars do use this set up
BMW Self Adjusting Clutch – SAC – DIY – How To Replace | Bavarian Autosport Blog
No More Guesswork! A Special tool from LuK for the correct installation of Self Adjusting Clutches. | Self Adjusting Clutch (SAC) - Special Tool
more picture and info off acurazine
OEM clutch replacement tool - AcuraZine Community
This only applies to OEM/OE clutch replacement. Does not apply to CM, XLR8, and J&R. Since they are not self-adjusting clutches.
Buy your OE replacement at Partgeeks.com
Here was how it came in the mail. 2 bearing and spine 150 shipped since I bought insurance
Now here is where the problem is
The springs are not fully compressed. This means that you will wear down your clutch faster over time since its not fully retraced. Also the range of the self-adjusting clutch is also reduced
Here is where it is marked.
After I had someone do the preset for me.
The press on all the fingers evenly.
This is the result. The spring is fully compressed and the bar is all the way to the right where it should be.
now what does this matter? It matter because most people or shop do not have the LUK pressure plate setting tool. The tool is about 1000 bucks.
Another happy 100K for this clutch.
This only applies to OE replacement. It does not apply to the CM kits since the OEM/OE are self-adjusting clutches.
As a side note. I would order replacement flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. its about 30 bucks worth, but that a small price to pay for piece of mind.
Here the tool that honda uses.
Here is video on youtube
So make sure whoever is doing your clutch knows how to do this. Or else your going to end up spending additional money in the long run cuz your clutch died early.
Autozone also has it
OEM/Self adjusting clutch tool kit (27209) | Alignment Clutch Tool | AutoZone.com
As for how no one talks about it here. I am pretty sure its not very common on honda since all the intergra, civic, and rsx use a different clutch and flywheel set up. But a lot of Euro cars do use this set up
BMW Self Adjusting Clutch – SAC – DIY – How To Replace | Bavarian Autosport Blog
No More Guesswork! A Special tool from LuK for the correct installation of Self Adjusting Clutches. | Self Adjusting Clutch (SAC) - Special Tool
more picture and info off acurazine
OEM clutch replacement tool - AcuraZine Community
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#4
Burning Brakes
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with enough force if it bounces around, yes. You have to be careful even handling the clutch with your hands so as not to spring the pre-load before the clutch is set in place. In transit if it isn't packaged well it can get F'ed.
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yeah mine was out. Supposedly they do come preset. But you know how UPS/Fedex/USPS and etc treat your package.
So keep that mine when you have your clutch done.
So keep that mine when you have your clutch done.
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#8
Racer
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Ok, well this is great to know. I'd likely still order from carolinaclutch, but since I'm fortunate to be down the road from them I'll have a chat with them about recommended shops in the area that would install it properly. We do have a Honda/Acura specialist that is likely informed and equipped todo the job, but at least I know about asking right questions. Thanks guys.
#9
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^ your welcome.
From what I learned. If it is not set properly the clutch will still work, but it will not last as long since the material is getting eaten up faster. the diaphargm adjust itself as the clutch wear down so that you always have a consist pedal feel.
From what I learned. If it is not set properly the clutch will still work, but it will not last as long since the material is getting eaten up faster. the diaphargm adjust itself as the clutch wear down so that you always have a consist pedal feel.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Clutch Pre-Set Write up
Just set mine using a hydraulic press today. Definitely had to be super careful to not overstress the parts, as they can easily be crushed with too much pressure. I got lucky and found an old top hat laying around and used that as a die.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
#16
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No problem. This is exactly why I posted here since most people don't know that it needs to be preset when they get it. Sure it is preset before shipping but UPS, Fedex, and etc like to bang up the package.
My friend had his friend do the preset for me since he usually does it for the Audi guys. It just so happens that we use similar pressure plate design.
My friend had his friend do the preset for me since he usually does it for the Audi guys. It just so happens that we use similar pressure plate design.
Just set mine using a hydraulic press today. Definitely had to be super careful to not overstress the parts, as they can easily be crushed with too much pressure. I got lucky and found an old top hat laying around and used that as a die.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
#18
Three Wheelin'
DIY, all the info you need is here, it really isn't that hard... don't go through the massive headache I went through
I even asked a few Honda tech's, and all they told me was that it looks normal, or that it will re-adjust the pre-load on its own after install....
I said F*** it, i'll fix it myself, just like every other unique problem i've been in lol
I even asked a few Honda tech's, and all they told me was that it looks normal, or that it will re-adjust the pre-load on its own after install....
I said F*** it, i'll fix it myself, just like every other unique problem i've been in lol
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they do come preset from factory, but during shipping it gets banged up. As you can see from my photo the spring did move. So I had my friend's friend do the preset for me with a press. This is pretty much the only draw back of going with an OEM clutch vs aftermarket in terms of installation.
#25
Senior Moderator
When i did my swap i just bolted it up. 200k later and im still on the same clutch
#26
2004 NBP TL 6MT
Thank you OP for this thread, it gives me a visual on what some drivetrain parts guys told me. They said it comes preset referring to both LUK and SACHs kit. I have a OEM service manual and it mentions using a pressure plate compressing tool, but I do not believe it mentions resetting these springs. That would mean you could install it using this special tool, but not get full life out of clutch.
So if this pressure plate is preset properly, then does this mean the pressure plate compressing tool is not needed to install and torque down pressure plate? I would think so.
I don't understand why this information is not readily available since this is not a new design. Not much documentation out there and these self-adjusting clutch tool kits are expensive and not easy to find. I've been debating whether to keep OEM DMF setup or convert to SMF...but DMF is significantly cheaper and I only anticipate doing this clutch repair once in this vehicle's life. I have 162K miles and one repair should last me to 300K, by then I'll move onto another car.
So if this pressure plate is preset properly, then does this mean the pressure plate compressing tool is not needed to install and torque down pressure plate? I would think so.
I don't understand why this information is not readily available since this is not a new design. Not much documentation out there and these self-adjusting clutch tool kits are expensive and not easy to find. I've been debating whether to keep OEM DMF setup or convert to SMF...but DMF is significantly cheaper and I only anticipate doing this clutch repair once in this vehicle's life. I have 162K miles and one repair should last me to 300K, by then I'll move onto another car.
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So would it just be worth it to get a non-self adjusting clutch?
I will be changing mine in the near future. This is definitely good information. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
I will be changing mine in the near future. This is definitely good information. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
#31
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Yea, I have budgeted for a 1400.00 clutch though. Figured it the dealer did it, it was gonna be a 2000.00 job.
Might as well do it myself and spend that money on a good setup the first time.
Plus I will be tearing my motor down for head / manifold work at the same time. So I want a proper clutch the first time.
Might as well do it myself and spend that money on a good setup the first time.
Plus I will be tearing my motor down for head / manifold work at the same time. So I want a proper clutch the first time.
#32
2004 NBP TL 6MT
Everyone's requirements are different, it appears you are modifying your car. If so and you have plenty of life left in your vehicle, I'd go traditional SMF (single mass flywheel) setup with sprung friction disc too. It can handle more torque without issues and easier to replace when worn out.
I have 162K miles currently and want vehicle to last me 300K, drive mostly HWY miles, vehicle is stock and I don't plan for mods outside of RV6 HFPC & J-pipe. So my requirements are different, not that I did not consider SMF setup...just does not make sense for me.
Good luck.
I have 162K miles currently and want vehicle to last me 300K, drive mostly HWY miles, vehicle is stock and I don't plan for mods outside of RV6 HFPC & J-pipe. So my requirements are different, not that I did not consider SMF setup...just does not make sense for me.
Good luck.
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if your planning to make big power or hate the feeling of the OEM clutch get a SMFW, I decided to do OEM since am just going for N/A power on my accord and so it won't be pushing more then ~300-325 whp and 220-250 wtq (if that is even possible for a 3.0)
#34
i recently replaced my clutch and flywheel and rear main seal!
i saw that the pressure plate comes preloaded to the exact same position as the OP, thisazboi88.
my thought is this: LUK have to know, that most mechanics are going to slap this puppy on and not have a second thought.
it is clear that the OP was able to gain a couple millimeters on the self adjusting spring mechanism. BUT....
after the first few clutch pedalings, did his adjusting springs adjust back out to a new (perhaps even further out) position?
There is only one way to verify the actual necessity of this preparation.
-after an hour of driving around on the new clutch.
-pull the starter and peek in to see where the springs rested to.
there is no doubt that this extra step is required,
if all you are replacing is the clutch disc.
but since i replaced the pressure plate, i did it without the tool.
after 300 miles, starting to feel very good,
i'll report back either way to this thread in a year or 2
i saw that the pressure plate comes preloaded to the exact same position as the OP, thisazboi88.
my thought is this: LUK have to know, that most mechanics are going to slap this puppy on and not have a second thought.
it is clear that the OP was able to gain a couple millimeters on the self adjusting spring mechanism. BUT....
after the first few clutch pedalings, did his adjusting springs adjust back out to a new (perhaps even further out) position?
There is only one way to verify the actual necessity of this preparation.
-after an hour of driving around on the new clutch.
-pull the starter and peek in to see where the springs rested to.
there is no doubt that this extra step is required,
if all you are replacing is the clutch disc.
but since i replaced the pressure plate, i did it without the tool.
after 300 miles, starting to feel very good,
i'll report back either way to this thread in a year or 2
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#35
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good to know my thread is still helping. I took it to a machine shop and they pressed it.
Luk clutch do come pre-pressed, but during shipping they get jacked up. I have seen some clutches where the pressure plate marking is extended all the way to the max
Luk clutch do come pre-pressed, but during shipping they get jacked up. I have seen some clutches where the pressure plate marking is extended all the way to the max
#39
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I just checked the new LUK clutch I bought a month or so ago and sure enough, the spring is all of the way extended.
Last edited by horseshoez; 02-07-2018 at 07:14 AM.