J37a2 build has begun for my '07 TL
09-28-2014, 11:25 PM
#121
Suzuka Master
I guess in many ways its good to be older. I learned to wrench at an early age from my father and watching, reading and absorbing everything I could. Personal computers and the internet did not exist. I have built my fair share of internal combustion engines and I can confirm that the procudures that IHC is trying to convey to you are absolutely spot on. It was not a machining error. Think of this as a learning experience and make some changes in your process.
09-29-2014, 12:47 AM
#122
I guess in many ways its good to be older. I learned to wrench at an early age from my father and watching, reading and absorbing everything I could. Personal computers and the internet did not exist. I have built my fair share of internal combustion engines and I can confirm that the procudures that IHC is trying to convey to you are absolutely spot on. It was not a machining error. Think of this as a learning experience and make some changes in your process.
I love how you specify "make some changes in your process" as to imply that I've done something wrong in the process of dismantling an engine in which I've done so many times before. And also appreciate how you assume I meant that the issue occurred from a some sort of incorrectly executed or abnormal machining procedure. Did I ever mention this as the assumed reason for the blocks distortion? Nope, in fact, I was actually thinking of something that was done during movement of the block around their facility. For example, someone that was loading the block onto the honing equipment lost their hold and maybe it landed flat on main #1 which would make identifying a mark or indentation pretty difficult to do.
Sure, IHCs has some great knowledge and I'm not denouncing or minimizing this fact. But this stuff has nothing to do with a persons ability to comprehend someone and then make applicable responses to the points given. I'm not as "yung" as my forum name may make me out to be and nearly all of my life I've been around engines. I too know a few things about them so knock this rookie crap out of the discussion please. And bring some meat to the table next time you decide to sit down and eat please...
Professionalism has its limits and my apologies to those having to read these responses but I think my words here are understandable.
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09-29-2014, 08:32 AM
#123
Safety Car
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all a sudden everyone an expert on engine building...
Leave Robert alone and let him do his thing. Something happen to the block... We may never know what. Shit happens, life goes on, and so will this build.
Leave Robert alone and let him do his thing. Something happen to the block... We may never know what. Shit happens, life goes on, and so will this build.
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09-29-2014, 09:06 AM
#124
Was going to keep quiet but things are ruined here anyway......
These threads always turn into this. I wish we could somehow keep threads generally on topic or at least civil and create other threads to debate things that have nothing to do with the original subject.
As a person who likely has ADD, I quickly lose focus when the rants get in the way.
In this case, the crank binds, decision made to replace. NEXT step......Debate and argue what happened in another thread. If the OP even cares to know. If they've done it a bunch of times before without issues, then it's a one off anomaly that doesn't matter what the cause.
These threads always turn into this. I wish we could somehow keep threads generally on topic or at least civil and create other threads to debate things that have nothing to do with the original subject.
As a person who likely has ADD, I quickly lose focus when the rants get in the way.
In this case, the crank binds, decision made to replace. NEXT step......Debate and argue what happened in another thread. If the OP even cares to know. If they've done it a bunch of times before without issues, then it's a one off anomaly that doesn't matter what the cause.
Last edited by KN_TL; 09-29-2014 at 09:08 AM.
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09-29-2014, 12:22 PM
#125
I don't see how it can be dismissed that it doesn't matter what the cause is. Yes, it doesn't matter what the cause is in relation to resolution of the customer's issue, but since the information was posted to a public forum, ideally you'd think that root cause would be found for education's sake. This would prevent others from experiencing the same thing, and also to potentially salvage something that is thought to be useless.
Did Matt get an attitude? Sure, but so did Robert. I honestly don't think Matt looks at Robert as a dope, but right now, possibly as someone that is hard headed and unwilling to listen. The personal insults from both don't help get points across.
Do I think the block is salvageable? I have no doubt. Does Robert wish to go that avenue? Apparently not. I would like to know more of the procedural steps and order that things need to go in to ensure these issues don't occur again.
KN, you said you had the same problem and ordered a new block. You may even benefit from this as to salvaging your original block (perhaps too late though?). You did say this was an expensive venture no doubt, but if you only blaze the trail on your own, and just drop cash at every issue, it becomes that much more expensive.
Robert - can you elaborate a bit more as to what your suspicion was that could have happened to the block? When you say dropping it and making an identifying mark difficult - do you mean that perhaps the mains were mixed up? If that's the case, wouldn't the onus be on the machine shop to correct that error, as well as reimburse for the bearing with new tolerances?
I understand you wanting ultimate control over the build and thus limiting machine work. However, if you have a good machinist, you should trust he does what you tell him, and does it accurately, or you should find a new machinist. I look at the machine shop as nothing more than an operator, like Matt said, "do this, with these specs." They know no more and no less.
Right now, it appears that while Matt attempted to offer assistance and suggestions, it was met with resistance. That lead to insults from both, neither one taking anything useful from the other's posts. There is valuable information here on both sides, lets not forget.
Matt - I'm as obstinate as you are about trying to get people to listen to things that do have merit - sometimes it just doesn't happen. I'm finding as I age that it's better to offer, and if met with criticism, instead of beating the dead horse, move on and know that it has no effect on you for him not listening.
Robert, I'd suggest taking what Matt said as helpful suggestions - your choice of not using the block is just that - your choice. I think there was confusion in the thread because the customer reported that the block was trashed, which does not appear to be the true case. Also, while you were a bit vague, you did at least insinuate that something ocurred during machining that caused the issue, even if that was not your intent. If you are indeed sending a block that only needs an align hone to the scrap heap, I'd question that. You said it would make a good table - why would you not simply have it align bored, and then use the block in another build when you have the opportunity? Is all of your other machining invested in that block now useless, my thought was not. Matt makes a convincing argument as to current blocks and their strength and materials as well as a seasoned block being preferred.
Matt asked a few times what the thrust clearance was set at - any reason for no reply on that?
Matt - you said you can make the mains smaller by align boring - can you elaborate? I tried to research it but came up empty.
Let's keep this thread open and moving forward!
Did Matt get an attitude? Sure, but so did Robert. I honestly don't think Matt looks at Robert as a dope, but right now, possibly as someone that is hard headed and unwilling to listen. The personal insults from both don't help get points across.
Do I think the block is salvageable? I have no doubt. Does Robert wish to go that avenue? Apparently not. I would like to know more of the procedural steps and order that things need to go in to ensure these issues don't occur again.
KN, you said you had the same problem and ordered a new block. You may even benefit from this as to salvaging your original block (perhaps too late though?). You did say this was an expensive venture no doubt, but if you only blaze the trail on your own, and just drop cash at every issue, it becomes that much more expensive.
Robert - can you elaborate a bit more as to what your suspicion was that could have happened to the block? When you say dropping it and making an identifying mark difficult - do you mean that perhaps the mains were mixed up? If that's the case, wouldn't the onus be on the machine shop to correct that error, as well as reimburse for the bearing with new tolerances?
I understand you wanting ultimate control over the build and thus limiting machine work. However, if you have a good machinist, you should trust he does what you tell him, and does it accurately, or you should find a new machinist. I look at the machine shop as nothing more than an operator, like Matt said, "do this, with these specs." They know no more and no less.
Right now, it appears that while Matt attempted to offer assistance and suggestions, it was met with resistance. That lead to insults from both, neither one taking anything useful from the other's posts. There is valuable information here on both sides, lets not forget.
Matt - I'm as obstinate as you are about trying to get people to listen to things that do have merit - sometimes it just doesn't happen. I'm finding as I age that it's better to offer, and if met with criticism, instead of beating the dead horse, move on and know that it has no effect on you for him not listening.
Robert, I'd suggest taking what Matt said as helpful suggestions - your choice of not using the block is just that - your choice. I think there was confusion in the thread because the customer reported that the block was trashed, which does not appear to be the true case. Also, while you were a bit vague, you did at least insinuate that something ocurred during machining that caused the issue, even if that was not your intent. If you are indeed sending a block that only needs an align hone to the scrap heap, I'd question that. You said it would make a good table - why would you not simply have it align bored, and then use the block in another build when you have the opportunity? Is all of your other machining invested in that block now useless, my thought was not. Matt makes a convincing argument as to current blocks and their strength and materials as well as a seasoned block being preferred.
Matt asked a few times what the thrust clearance was set at - any reason for no reply on that?
Matt - you said you can make the mains smaller by align boring - can you elaborate? I tried to research it but came up empty.
Let's keep this thread open and moving forward!
09-29-2014, 12:26 PM
#126
Team Owner
I'm here to make sure any potential customers see that this is a guy who read a couple articles and began calling himself an engine builder.
Take KN for example. He has at least as much knowledge if not more about engine building from his posts I've seen. He's on here asking for help building his engine while the other guy is a self proclaimed expert that won't take advice or critisism or admit that he screwed up several times. If you guys could only hear what he sounds like from my point of view, he knows absolutely shit about building an engine correctly which would be fine if he wasn't doing for others and refusing to learn how to do it right. It was funny and I generally ignored him but I didn't realize until this thread that he builds engines for other people which is why I stepped in. I've met plenty people like him, these people are easy to spot.
Notice I've made several very important, very valid points that keep getting ignored. It's been check mate for some time now which is why he continues to ignore these points. These are not personal attacks but they're issues with his process that need to be addressed to be taken seriously. I've tried not to be condescending and not to make anything personal so we can have a technical discussion but he's not capable of it. There is no reason for him to not answer other than he doesn't know any better.
So a word to the wise, do not let this guy "build" your engines (or give cam advice lol). Anyone with the time and a service manual can do what this guy is doing and probably do it better.
09-29-2014, 12:29 PM
#127
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
09-29-2014, 12:42 PM
#128
KN, you said you had the same problem and ordered a new block. You may even benefit from this as to salvaging your original block (perhaps too late though?). You did say this was an expensive venture no doubt, but if you only blaze the trail on your own, and just drop cash at every issue, it becomes that much more expensive.
While I was at it, went back to stock bore pistons (Wiseco) and will try and sell my slightly oversized CP's at a discount :-).
I'm not helping but I still think segregating these issues will make for a easier understanding for people not actively following a particular thread. But that takes a lot of moderation which probably isn't feasible for any forum.
Last edited by KN_TL; 09-29-2014 at 12:46 PM.
09-29-2014, 01:31 PM
#129
Team Owner
I don't see how it can be dismissed that it doesn't matter what the cause is. Yes, it doesn't matter what the cause is in relation to resolution of the customer's issue, but since the information was posted to a public forum, ideally you'd think that root cause would be found for education's sake. This would prevent others from experiencing the same thing, and also to potentially salvage something that is thought to be useless.
Did Matt get an attitude? Sure, but so did Robert. I honestly don't think Matt looks at Robert as a dope, but right now, possibly as someone that is hard headed and unwilling to listen. The personal insults from both don't help get points across.
Do I think the block is salvageable? I have no doubt. Does Robert wish to go that avenue? Apparently not. I would like to know more of the procedural steps and order that things need to go in to ensure these issues don't occur again.
KN, you said you had the same problem and ordered a new block. You may even benefit from this as to salvaging your original block (perhaps too late though?). You did say this was an expensive venture no doubt, but if you only blaze the trail on your own, and just drop cash at every issue, it becomes that much more expensive.
Robert - can you elaborate a bit more as to what your suspicion was that could have happened to the block? When you say dropping it and making an identifying mark difficult - do you mean that perhaps the mains were mixed up? If that's the case, wouldn't the onus be on the machine shop to correct that error, as well as reimburse for the bearing with new tolerances?
I understand you wanting ultimate control over the build and thus limiting machine work. However, if you have a good machinist, you should trust he does what you tell him, and does it accurately, or you should find a new machinist. I look at the machine shop as nothing more than an operator, like Matt said, "do this, with these specs." They know no more and no less.
Right now, it appears that while Matt attempted to offer assistance and suggestions, it was met with resistance. That lead to insults from both, neither one taking anything useful from the other's posts. There is valuable information here on both sides, lets not forget.
Matt - I'm as obstinate as you are about trying to get people to listen to things that do have merit - sometimes it just doesn't happen. I'm finding as I age that it's better to offer, and if met with criticism, instead of beating the dead horse, move on and know that it has no effect on you for him not listening.
Robert, I'd suggest taking what Matt said as helpful suggestions - your choice of not using the block is just that - your choice. I think there was confusion in the thread because the customer reported that the block was trashed, which does not appear to be the true case. Also, while you were a bit vague, you did at least insinuate that something ocurred during machining that caused the issue, even if that was not your intent. If you are indeed sending a block that only needs an align hone to the scrap heap, I'd question that. You said it would make a good table - why would you not simply have it align bored, and then use the block in another build when you have the opportunity? Is all of your other machining invested in that block now useless, my thought was not. Matt makes a convincing argument as to current blocks and their strength and materials as well as a seasoned block being preferred.
Matt asked a few times what the thrust clearance was set at - any reason for no reply on that?
Matt - you said you can make the mains smaller by align boring - can you elaborate? I tried to research it but came up empty.
Let's keep this thread open and moving forward!
Did Matt get an attitude? Sure, but so did Robert. I honestly don't think Matt looks at Robert as a dope, but right now, possibly as someone that is hard headed and unwilling to listen. The personal insults from both don't help get points across.
Do I think the block is salvageable? I have no doubt. Does Robert wish to go that avenue? Apparently not. I would like to know more of the procedural steps and order that things need to go in to ensure these issues don't occur again.
KN, you said you had the same problem and ordered a new block. You may even benefit from this as to salvaging your original block (perhaps too late though?). You did say this was an expensive venture no doubt, but if you only blaze the trail on your own, and just drop cash at every issue, it becomes that much more expensive.
Robert - can you elaborate a bit more as to what your suspicion was that could have happened to the block? When you say dropping it and making an identifying mark difficult - do you mean that perhaps the mains were mixed up? If that's the case, wouldn't the onus be on the machine shop to correct that error, as well as reimburse for the bearing with new tolerances?
I understand you wanting ultimate control over the build and thus limiting machine work. However, if you have a good machinist, you should trust he does what you tell him, and does it accurately, or you should find a new machinist. I look at the machine shop as nothing more than an operator, like Matt said, "do this, with these specs." They know no more and no less.
Right now, it appears that while Matt attempted to offer assistance and suggestions, it was met with resistance. That lead to insults from both, neither one taking anything useful from the other's posts. There is valuable information here on both sides, lets not forget.
Matt - I'm as obstinate as you are about trying to get people to listen to things that do have merit - sometimes it just doesn't happen. I'm finding as I age that it's better to offer, and if met with criticism, instead of beating the dead horse, move on and know that it has no effect on you for him not listening.
Robert, I'd suggest taking what Matt said as helpful suggestions - your choice of not using the block is just that - your choice. I think there was confusion in the thread because the customer reported that the block was trashed, which does not appear to be the true case. Also, while you were a bit vague, you did at least insinuate that something ocurred during machining that caused the issue, even if that was not your intent. If you are indeed sending a block that only needs an align hone to the scrap heap, I'd question that. You said it would make a good table - why would you not simply have it align bored, and then use the block in another build when you have the opportunity? Is all of your other machining invested in that block now useless, my thought was not. Matt makes a convincing argument as to current blocks and their strength and materials as well as a seasoned block being preferred.
Matt asked a few times what the thrust clearance was set at - any reason for no reply on that?
Matt - you said you can make the mains smaller by align boring - can you elaborate? I tried to research it but came up empty.
Let's keep this thread open and moving forward!
I need to acknowledge one thing that's been bothering me, I really let KN down as I was helping him in the beginning and due to a few events plus my own ADD I left him hanging. I only hope I can help with anything that's left. I blame myself for him getting rid of the block.
With the align bore, sometimes you can just run a bore through the mains and main bearing clearances are fine. A lot of times if you just run a bore though it you're going to end up with some loose mains.
What I've always done (and I think this is mainstream) is remove .001"-.01" from the main caps (the mating surface to the block. Remove some material from the same area of the block and this can get a little more tricky with 4 and 6 bolt mains to do correctly. You've not got a smaller hole. The bore is run through it to align and to get the correct main bearing clearances.
I started doing this a long time ago. The engines I've done the most of (the Buick 3.8L) have a lot of crank and block flex and the main caps walk badly past 600 crank hp. It got to where align boring was just a normal part of engine building with those but with any engine it's good to at least check it or align hone no matter what engine family and what usage it will see.
Sorry I have to cut it short real quick because of work but I'll be back for any tech nerd stuff.
09-29-2014, 01:32 PM
#130
Team Owner
In my case, once the main caps were removed, the #4 cap seat was messed up. Something that I must have screwed up. I don't think that is something you can salvage and don't want to chance it so I dropped another $600 on a block.
While I was at it, went back to stock bore pistons (Wiseco) and will try and sell my slightly oversized CP's at a discount :-).
I'm not helping but I still think segregating these issues will make for a easier understanding for people not actively following a particular thread. But that takes a lot of moderation which probably isn't feasible for any forum.
While I was at it, went back to stock bore pistons (Wiseco) and will try and sell my slightly oversized CP's at a discount :-).
I'm not helping but I still think segregating these issues will make for a easier understanding for people not actively following a particular thread. But that takes a lot of moderation which probably isn't feasible for any forum.
09-29-2014, 02:22 PM
#131
Safety Car
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who said he was my friend?
From all his post his built/ worked on more J then you. He has also contributed specific technical information about the j-series. Has any one had a blown motor from Robert?
You do know he has an actual business and is not working out of his garage... So if he F'd up his getting sued
This is almost as bad as the 4piston thread on k20a.
From all his post his built/ worked on more J then you. He has also contributed specific technical information about the j-series. Has any one had a blown motor from Robert?
You do know he has an actual business and is not working out of his garage... So if he F'd up his getting sued
This is almost as bad as the 4piston thread on k20a.
Exactly. Your friend has no business "building" engines for anyone but himself. NOTHING happened to the engine, you're missing the point. He will not engage in a technical debate because he will get run over. There are glaring mistakes, the guy doesn't know the difference in ignition and cam timing. He will take the time to write some childish nonsense but notice he stays away from any meaningful debate.
I'm here to make sure any potential customers see that this is a guy who read a couple articles and began calling himself an engine builder.
Take KN for example. He has at least as much knowledge if not more about engine building from his posts I've seen. He's on here asking for help building his engine while the other guy is a self proclaimed expert that won't take advice or critisism or admit that he screwed up several times. If you guys could only hear what he sounds like from my point of view, he knows absolutely shit about building an engine correctly which would be fine if he wasn't doing for others and refusing to learn how to do it right. It was funny and I generally ignored him but I didn't realize until this thread that he builds engines for other people which is why I stepped in. I've met plenty people like him, these people are easy to spot.
Notice I've made several very important, very valid points that keep getting ignored. It's been check mate for some time now which is why he continues to ignore these points. These are not personal attacks but they're issues with his process that need to be addressed to be taken seriously. I've tried not to be condescending and not to make anything personal so we can have a technical discussion but he's not capable of it. There is no reason for him to not answer other than he doesn't know any better.
So a word to the wise, do not let this guy "build" your engines (or give cam advice lol). Anyone with the time and a service manual can do what this guy is doing and probably do it better.
I'm here to make sure any potential customers see that this is a guy who read a couple articles and began calling himself an engine builder.
Take KN for example. He has at least as much knowledge if not more about engine building from his posts I've seen. He's on here asking for help building his engine while the other guy is a self proclaimed expert that won't take advice or critisism or admit that he screwed up several times. If you guys could only hear what he sounds like from my point of view, he knows absolutely shit about building an engine correctly which would be fine if he wasn't doing for others and refusing to learn how to do it right. It was funny and I generally ignored him but I didn't realize until this thread that he builds engines for other people which is why I stepped in. I've met plenty people like him, these people are easy to spot.
Notice I've made several very important, very valid points that keep getting ignored. It's been check mate for some time now which is why he continues to ignore these points. These are not personal attacks but they're issues with his process that need to be addressed to be taken seriously. I've tried not to be condescending and not to make anything personal so we can have a technical discussion but he's not capable of it. There is no reason for him to not answer other than he doesn't know any better.
So a word to the wise, do not let this guy "build" your engines (or give cam advice lol). Anyone with the time and a service manual can do what this guy is doing and probably do it better.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 09-29-2014 at 02:28 PM.
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yungone501 (09-29-2014)
09-29-2014, 02:40 PM
#132
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
IHC- I think you've made your point...Time to move on? Folks have read what you've written and what he's written. Those same folks are going to have to come to their own conclusions on what has been discussed here and what to believe or disbelieve.
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09-29-2014, 02:52 PM
#133
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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09-29-2014, 03:27 PM
#134
Suzuka Master
The real issue is if the crank wasnt bound up enough to be noticable then it would have been assembled and customer would have experienced big problems down the road. It was pure luck that it was that far off to trigger this discussion and hopefully learn something from the experience.
09-29-2014, 07:41 PM
#135
I'm heading back home tomorrow and I'll post up some pictures. Pretty sure it's beyond fixing.
As far as going MIA, no worries. I'm taking my time and don't have anything assembled as of yet. Been doing a lot of reading while waiting for parts and stuff. Also dealing with some family illness issues that is taking me out of town so this is all taking a back seat anyway.
As far as going MIA, no worries. I'm taking my time and don't have anything assembled as of yet. Been doing a lot of reading while waiting for parts and stuff. Also dealing with some family illness issues that is taking me out of town so this is all taking a back seat anyway.
09-29-2014, 08:30 PM
#136
Dallas Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
Wow this thread really took a turn for the worst. I personally know Robert as his shop is two miles from my house. I discussed the block issue with him a two days ago when I stopped by his shop. Not going to comment about it, because I don't want to start anything. He has built a ton of engines, and has a boosted J35 in his accord. I'm a mechanic and know my stuff, and I can tell you guys that he does as well. IHC does too, frankly a little more than most on the forum. Thanks for all the good information guys and trying to help out OP. Hope the build goes back together great and your car shows some good gains!
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10-01-2014, 10:02 AM
#137
Team Owner
I'm heading back home tomorrow and I'll post up some pictures. Pretty sure it's beyond fixing.
As far as going MIA, no worries. I'm taking my time and don't have anything assembled as of yet. Been doing a lot of reading while waiting for parts and stuff. Also dealing with some family illness issues that is taking me out of town so this is all taking a back seat anyway.
As far as going MIA, no worries. I'm taking my time and don't have anything assembled as of yet. Been doing a lot of reading while waiting for parts and stuff. Also dealing with some family illness issues that is taking me out of town so this is all taking a back seat anyway.
Let me know if I can help and good luck with your family issues.
10-02-2014, 04:23 PM
#140
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
10-06-2014, 03:57 AM
#142
Robert i had read one of your forums, and you said the j37a1 was a direct fit? I want to swap my motor and trans but i want to stay auto for now, i can change the trans myself but the wiring is my only issue.
10-06-2014, 09:40 AM
#143
Team Owner
If you call BS as you getting exposed as knowing nothing about engine building, I guess it's BS. Luckily this info is here for any future "customers" to see. You were smart to bow out of any sort of technical discussion early on before you looked any worse. You'll have your followers that will make excuses for you no matter how many good engines you throw away (which are usually the most vocal group) but the people with a brain can see through it all and that's all I was after.
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10-06-2014, 10:50 AM
#144
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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10-06-2014, 12:24 PM
#145
All motor
10-06-2014, 12:27 PM
#146
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
10-07-2014, 11:11 PM
#147
If you call BS as you getting exposed as knowing nothing about engine building, I guess it's BS. Luckily this info is here for any future "customers" to see. You were smart to bow out of any sort of technical discussion early on before you looked any worse. You'll have your followers that will make excuses for you no matter how many good engines you throw away (which are usually the most vocal group) but the people with a brain can see through it all and that's all I was after.
Now that this thread has been effectively ruined by King Nothing (IHC's), let's indulge a little here...shall we?
And yes, there's so much BS in this thread, I'm not even sure what to defend or explain to you. Lmao!!! But I'll just go with the one thing that I found funny from the beginning of your escapade. You are so distraught about the fact I have (read and absorb this word) CONFIDENCE in my explanation of what happened to the block that you have weaseled down to making childish remarks and accusations here on the forum when the fact of the matter is this: how can you be so sure in your blind analysis that I have not the knowledge or ability to build an engine properly when you yourself have never proven me to be wrong or even physically seen this block?
You want me to give and state any information you are requesting so to prove to you what, I'm right? Do you think this is somehow owed to you? Was it me (or the OP) that came to you and begged for your almighty knowledge or sought your advice on the matter? No. In fact, the whole reason I stopped responding to your posts was due to the shear fact that you argue or discount any word that's spoken in any "discussion" I've ever seen you involved in. So in the end, you really don't bother me at all. And your vague attempt at attacking my engine building skills has minimally affected my business or pride...nor will it. That's because instead of typing or beating on my keyboard, I'm out there (while your making absurd posts on forums about your expertise) in the shop building engines that have yet broke or had any issues because one thing: I KNOW WHAT THE HELL IM DOING. As an a self proclaimed expert of engine building, you should know this one thing by now. That is, that building an engine involves (or at least SHOULD involve) a reflection of character, dignity, wisdom, and even a bit of personality. If I choose not to machine a block in a certain manner because I have a logical explanation as to why, then I've done nothing wrong. Despite your way of thinking, business is good here both at the house and at the shop. Hmmm, suppose I'm doing something right?
Sorry that life apparently has you down right now. Really.
Ps- I build engines not for profit but solely for passion. Ask any person that's ever had an engine built by me and they will all tell you that my labor fees are second to none. In the end, it's the reliability of my engines I build that keep them coming back to me. Not IHC's posts on the forum.
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C2CuSn07 TL (10-11-2014)
10-07-2014, 11:20 PM
#148
This is a brief explanation and there are a few other smaller details that I can explain if you want. PM me to keep this thread somewhat clean.
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kingkord777 (10-09-2014)
10-11-2014, 09:10 PM
#149
Ps- I build engines not for profit but solely for passion. Ask any person that's ever had an engine built by me and they will all tell you that my labor fees are second to none. In the end, it's the reliability of my engines I build that keep them coming back to me. Not IHC's posts on the forum.
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yungone501 (10-12-2014)
10-12-2014, 12:13 PM
#150
Team Owner
Exposed? Knowing nothing about engine building?? Technical discussion??? Excuses about "followers" that support me instead of you???? This is truly both a childish and comical thread now.
Now that this thread has been effectively ruined by King Nothing (IHC's), let's indulge a little here...shall we?
And yes, there's so much BS in this thread, I'm not even sure what to defend or explain to you. Lmao!!! But I'll just go with the one thing that I found funny from the beginning of your escapade. You are so distraught about the fact I have (read and absorb this word) CONFIDENCE in my explanation of what happened to the block that you have weaseled down to making childish remarks and accusations here on the forum when the fact of the matter is this: how can you be so sure in your blind analysis that I have not the knowledge or ability to build an engine properly when you yourself have never proven me to be wrong or even physically seen this block?
You want me to give and state any information you are requesting so to prove to you what, I'm right? Do you think this is somehow owed to you? Was it me (or the OP) that came to you and begged for your almighty knowledge or sought your advice on the matter? No. In fact, the whole reason I stopped responding to your posts was due to the shear fact that you argue or discount any word that's spoken in any "discussion" I've ever seen you involved in. So in the end, you really don't bother me at all. And your vague attempt at attacking my engine building skills has minimally affected my business or pride...nor will it. That's because instead of typing or beating on my keyboard, I'm out there (while your making absurd posts on forums about your expertise) in the shop building engines that have yet broke or had any issues because one thing: I KNOW WHAT THE HELL IM DOING. As an a self proclaimed expert of engine building, you should know this one thing by now. That is, that building an engine involves (or at least SHOULD involve) a reflection of character, dignity, wisdom, and even a bit of personality. If I choose not to machine a block in a certain manner because I have a logical explanation as to why, then I've done nothing wrong. Despite your way of thinking, business is good here both at the house and at the shop. Hmmm, suppose I'm doing something right?
Sorry that life apparently has you down right now. Really.
Ps- I build engines not for profit but solely for passion. Ask any person that's ever had an engine built by me and they will all tell you that my labor fees are second to none. In the end, it's the reliability of my engines I build that keep them coming back to me. Not IHC's posts on the forum.
Now that this thread has been effectively ruined by King Nothing (IHC's), let's indulge a little here...shall we?
And yes, there's so much BS in this thread, I'm not even sure what to defend or explain to you. Lmao!!! But I'll just go with the one thing that I found funny from the beginning of your escapade. You are so distraught about the fact I have (read and absorb this word) CONFIDENCE in my explanation of what happened to the block that you have weaseled down to making childish remarks and accusations here on the forum when the fact of the matter is this: how can you be so sure in your blind analysis that I have not the knowledge or ability to build an engine properly when you yourself have never proven me to be wrong or even physically seen this block?
You want me to give and state any information you are requesting so to prove to you what, I'm right? Do you think this is somehow owed to you? Was it me (or the OP) that came to you and begged for your almighty knowledge or sought your advice on the matter? No. In fact, the whole reason I stopped responding to your posts was due to the shear fact that you argue or discount any word that's spoken in any "discussion" I've ever seen you involved in. So in the end, you really don't bother me at all. And your vague attempt at attacking my engine building skills has minimally affected my business or pride...nor will it. That's because instead of typing or beating on my keyboard, I'm out there (while your making absurd posts on forums about your expertise) in the shop building engines that have yet broke or had any issues because one thing: I KNOW WHAT THE HELL IM DOING. As an a self proclaimed expert of engine building, you should know this one thing by now. That is, that building an engine involves (or at least SHOULD involve) a reflection of character, dignity, wisdom, and even a bit of personality. If I choose not to machine a block in a certain manner because I have a logical explanation as to why, then I've done nothing wrong. Despite your way of thinking, business is good here both at the house and at the shop. Hmmm, suppose I'm doing something right?
Sorry that life apparently has you down right now. Really.
Ps- I build engines not for profit but solely for passion. Ask any person that's ever had an engine built by me and they will all tell you that my labor fees are second to none. In the end, it's the reliability of my engines I build that keep them coming back to me. Not IHC's posts on the forum.
I asked some very specific questions in this thread in an attempt to help you not waste a block that you're unable to answer. Instead you got defensive and now I know why. After 3 attempts to get the thrust bearing clearance which is just a little important when you have a "seized" crank you fail to provide it. You can BS most of Acurazine but anyone who has built engines, especially on a higher level will see right through you. From your machine shop tactics to your lack of knowledge to your order or doing things, you're some guy who decided one day that you're an engine builder. You do it for free, that's probably the smartest thing you could do. Maybe subconsciously you know that's what your builds are worth and it's a lot harder to get sued when the work is done for free. I've run across so many people like you, what you're doing is nothing new, it's been done for a long time.
I can contest to this. Since day one Rob has NEVER charged me a dime for labor, on anything and his parts were always below market value. All he asks for is a little patience as the work he does for free comes after what he does to provide for his family. I can easily respect that.
10-12-2014, 12:48 PM
#151
Posting a picture of a bunch of junk is supposed to mean something? So you have a junkyard at your house. I've given indisputable evidence to why you're wrong and all you come up with is pictures and childish personal attacks. You expect me to take you serious? Again, reliability? You're building a <300hp engine with factory forged crank, factory forged rods, 6 both mains, and a heavily reinforced block. A monkey could build a reliable engine with these specs. How many 100,000+ mile engines do you have on the road anyway?
I asked some very specific questions in this thread in an attempt to help you not waste a block that you're unable to answer. Instead you got defensive and now I know why. After 3 attempts to get the thrust bearing clearance which is just a little important when you have a "seized" crank you fail to provide it. You can BS most of Acurazine but anyone who has built engines, especially on a higher level will see right through you. From your machine shop tactics to your lack of knowledge to your order or doing things, you're some guy who decided one day that you're an engine builder. You do it for free, that's probably the smartest thing you could do. Maybe subconsciously you know that's what your builds are worth and it's a lot harder to get sued when the work is done for free. I've run across so many people like you, what you're doing is nothing new, it's been done for a long time.
I asked some very specific questions in this thread in an attempt to help you not waste a block that you're unable to answer. Instead you got defensive and now I know why. After 3 attempts to get the thrust bearing clearance which is just a little important when you have a "seized" crank you fail to provide it. You can BS most of Acurazine but anyone who has built engines, especially on a higher level will see right through you. From your machine shop tactics to your lack of knowledge to your order or doing things, you're some guy who decided one day that you're an engine builder. You do it for free, that's probably the smartest thing you could do. Maybe subconsciously you know that's what your builds are worth and it's a lot harder to get sued when the work is done for free. I've run across so many people like you, what you're doing is nothing new, it's been done for a long time.
As I've stated, all of my builds speak for themselves. No failures. When you start seeing threads pop up reporting a lack of reliability and/or workmanship in the engines I build, then you can come flaunt your unsurpassed knowledge and teach me a few things? Until that day, you should take some notes buddy because YOU DONT KNOW IT ALL LIKE YOU THINK YOU DO. Being book smart has nothing to do with actually building an engine in manner that lasts....sorry.
You're a beaten dead horse, you should move along now...
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yungone501 (10-12-2014)
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thisaznboi88 (10-12-2014)
10-12-2014, 04:08 PM
#154
Team Owner
A bunch of junk? Where do you come up with this nonsense? Obviously, you have no idea what you're seeing here. And who says the engines I build can't handle the power they put out just because they aren't ALL made from aftermarket forged parts? My own personal engines have seen between 500-650hp USING STOCK PARTS and that's without failure. You're clearly running out of things to dispute and you know the things you speak against is pure idiocracy.
As I've stated, all of my builds speak for themselves. No failures. When you start seeing threads pop up reporting a lack of reliability and/or workmanship in the engines I build, then you can come flaunt your unsurpassed knowledge and teach me a few things? Until that day, you should take some notes buddy because YOU DONT KNOW IT ALL LIKE YOU THINK YOU DO. Being book smart has nothing to do with actually building an engine in manner that lasts....sorry.
You're a beaten dead horse, you should move along now...
As I've stated, all of my builds speak for themselves. No failures. When you start seeing threads pop up reporting a lack of reliability and/or workmanship in the engines I build, then you can come flaunt your unsurpassed knowledge and teach me a few things? Until that day, you should take some notes buddy because YOU DONT KNOW IT ALL LIKE YOU THINK YOU DO. Being book smart has nothing to do with actually building an engine in manner that lasts....sorry.
You're a beaten dead horse, you should move along now...
Maybe you didn't realize the TL comes stock with a forged steel crank and forged rods and 6 bolt mains and maybe that's why you didn't comprehend what I was saying when I mentioned forged internals and a great block and forged rods. What I said was, with such great stock (forged) internals and making under 300hp, how could one not be reliable? The TL has an excellent block and crank and the rods aren't too bad either. I don't know how you could possibly not comprehend what I said. You literally took it the opposite of how I meant it and stated it.
So again, no failures means squat. You have a factory bottom end that surpasses some good aftermarket forged parts and making such low hp, you would really have to screw up to have a failure. My last factory engine that was pulled out a few months ago had 60k on it making 602rwhp. That's on a 2 bolt main block that was designed in the '70s and meant for 110hp with the worst oiling system I've ever experienced first hand. The stock split throw cast crank (look up split throw on google). The stock cast iron rods. The only thing forged in my engines are the pistons because stock pistons are long gone. Now go make 600+hp on a cast iron bottom end, commute 210 miles round trip to work in it, put at least 60,000 miles on it and let me know how that works out for you.
You couldn't do it because it requires a TON of prep work and tricks you've never heard of on google to not push the crank out of the block or spit out a rod. It has to be built right, not just assembled. With a TL, 250-300hp on a stock forged bottom end is nothing, as I said a monkey could assemble it and it would be fairly reliable. The TL has a far superior bottom end to what I'm dealing with and if Acura would have put a little more meat into the rods and pushed the top ring land down a bit, you would see 1,000hp TLs without ever removing so much as a valve cover. So don't get hurt patting yourself on the back that you made a <300hp engine with forged internals live for a few thousand miles. The J series is an "easy" engine. Great factory parts, no inherent design problems, just easy.
I'm amazed you have the balls to call me book smart when you admittedly received your "skills" from google. I got mine in various ways, college, training under some of the best in the world such as Ken Duttweiler and Bill Standridge (who is not just an engine builder but an engineer and holds several world records). Hanging out with some of the best engineers in the country and picking their brains until I annoyed the hell out of them. I'm blessed to have such amazing resources just a phone call away now so if I have a question I can get it answered by literally the best automotive minds in the world vs looking it up on google. For fucks sake I just did an old Buick Indy engine and just sold it because it doesn't make power until after 7,000rpm and it has to rev past 12,000rpm to make full power, plus I would have to cut a hole in the hood for the intake bonnet but that's a little more complicated than a 300hp J series. The only thing you got right is I am more book smart than you but I have the experience to back it up and properly apply it.
I'm around people all the time that have forgotten more than I know. I know my place and I'm humble and that's why when I see some poser on the internet regurgitating crap he read but doesn't understand from google, talking out of his ass and trying to impress people that don't know any better, I'm going to say something about it. The only thing you have done is memorize the various changes in the J series over the years so you have a good knowledge of what's compatible with what. Congrats, you know more than I do in that area.
Once again, you fail to answer the most simple questions. You skipped all of the tech questions that were asked before this thing went downhill because you don't know the answer and you're too arrogant to just admit it or ask questions. Remember, you started this whole thing. You're the one that got shitty when I was trying to help you by saying it was "beginner crap" when you actually didn't know the answer.
The best was when you came into MY thread and said "another thread ruined by yours truly". Well, "yours truly" would be yourself. And you didn't bother reading any of the thread or you would have seen that I was the thread starter and your boy OP's first post (second of the thread) was a personal attack against me and way, way off topic. Lucky for you the mods deleted one of the dumbest things ever said (even for you) around here. The point being it shows you don't comprehend what you read or what you say. You come out with the personal attacks regardless of the content and context because you don't like me regardless of whether I'm right or not.
And let's not forget your PM asking for help. You can't do it on here because of your ego but you can surely do it behind the scenes. I actually gave you the answer early on in this thread but you were too busy trying to look like you know something in front of your audience to notice.
So let's not ruin this guy's thread anymore but anytime you need help, start a thread and I'll be more than happy to teach you anything you want to know. I had already dropped it once but you had to get your two cents in once again and bring it back up. Again, I put out what I need to put out there already so there's no more to say. Don't quote me or talk to me or about me and the thread will stay on topic and you won't have to worry about me exposing you anymore. You're incapable of comprehending anything so it's time to give up.
10-12-2014, 04:27 PM
#155
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Don't start none.. won't be none. 
Please resist the urge to respond.
Please resist the urge to respond.
10-12-2014, 04:32 PM
#156
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Jose, CA/ Charleston, WV
Posts: 4,045
Received 619 Likes
on
459 Posts
sigh.... at this point you are better off replying Robert. This guy doesn't let up. He didn't let up with the w/m with dave king kong. He probably won't let up about the block and probably bash this thread into oblivion.
10-12-2014, 05:10 PM
#157
To address ONLY the bold section -
No, you aren't. REGARDLESS of your feeling of Robert's actions in this thread, YOU can never claim to be humble. In fact, based on your post count and typical responses in many threads, I'd say you either don't know what humble means, or you THINK it means proud.
You want, NO, EXPECT deference in every thread you post in.
This thread has devolved continuously, and while Robert did in fact take offense at first, he realized you were trying to help, and apologized. That wasn't enough for ole ye Almighty. Remember when I said to just take comfort in what you know, and if people won't listen, just don't worry and let them make their own mistakes? That humble attitude just ain't working for ya, is it?
The fact that you have some vendetta against Robert for what you feel is an egregious error that ultimately had no negative consequences for the customer, (He gave him his brand new shortblock, remember?), yet you say Paul isn't that bad because at least he gave Frosty some money back after a totally crap install of broken parts and its sad because Paul is a smart guy, shows that you value intelligence over character.
You can say all you want that you are humble, but it will never be believed. Do I think you are smart, and know your stuff? Sure. Does that make up for your holier than thou attitude (someone that is humble wouldn't have a holier than thou attitude) in every case? Far from it.
No, you aren't. REGARDLESS of your feeling of Robert's actions in this thread, YOU can never claim to be humble. In fact, based on your post count and typical responses in many threads, I'd say you either don't know what humble means, or you THINK it means proud.
You want, NO, EXPECT deference in every thread you post in.
This thread has devolved continuously, and while Robert did in fact take offense at first, he realized you were trying to help, and apologized. That wasn't enough for ole ye Almighty. Remember when I said to just take comfort in what you know, and if people won't listen, just don't worry and let them make their own mistakes? That humble attitude just ain't working for ya, is it?
The fact that you have some vendetta against Robert for what you feel is an egregious error that ultimately had no negative consequences for the customer, (He gave him his brand new shortblock, remember?), yet you say Paul isn't that bad because at least he gave Frosty some money back after a totally crap install of broken parts and its sad because Paul is a smart guy, shows that you value intelligence over character.
You can say all you want that you are humble, but it will never be believed. Do I think you are smart, and know your stuff? Sure. Does that make up for your holier than thou attitude (someone that is humble wouldn't have a holier than thou attitude) in every case? Far from it.
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10-12-2014, 05:11 PM
#158
Obviously reading comprehension is not your strong point as everything I said went way over your head. It's not "you're a beaten dead horse lol. Wow. It's "you're beating a dead horse". Otherwise you're calling me a "beaten dead horse" and that's a personal attack. And yes, I see some engines, some heads, a transmission. Do you want a cookie? Does having a few engines and spare heads laying around make you the best engine builder ever?
Maybe you didn't realize the TL comes stock with a forged steel crank and forged rods and 6 bolt mains and maybe that's why you didn't comprehend what I was saying when I mentioned forged internals and a great block and forged rods. What I said was, with such great stock (forged) internals and making under 300hp, how could one not be reliable? The TL has an excellent block and crank and the rods aren't too bad either. I don't know how you could possibly not comprehend what I said. You literally took it the opposite of how I meant it and stated it.
So again, no failures means squat. You have a factory bottom end that surpasses some good aftermarket forged parts and making such low hp, you would really have to screw up to have a failure. My last factory engine that was pulled out a few months ago had 60k on it making 602rwhp. That's on a 2 bolt main block that was designed in the '70s and meant for 110hp with the worst oiling system I've ever experienced first hand. The stock split throw cast crank (look up split throw on google). The stock cast iron rods. The only thing forged in my engines are the pistons because stock pistons are long gone. Now go make 600+hp on a cast iron bottom end, commute 210 miles round trip to work in it, put at least 60,000 miles on it and let me know how that works out for you.
You couldn't do it because it requires a TON of prep work and tricks you've never heard of on google to not push the crank out of the block or spit out a rod. It has to be built right, not just assembled. With a TL, 250-300hp on a stock forged bottom end is nothing, as I said a monkey could assemble it and it would be fairly reliable. The TL has a far superior bottom end to what I'm dealing with and if Acura would have put a little more meat into the rods and pushed the top ring land down a bit, you would see 1,000hp TLs without ever removing so much as a valve cover. So don't get hurt patting yourself on the back that you made a <300hp engine with forged internals live for a few thousand miles. The J series is an "easy" engine. Great factory parts, no inherent design problems, just easy.
I'm amazed you have the balls to call me book smart when you admittedly received your "skills" from google. I got mine in various ways, college, training under some of the best in the world such as Ken Duttweiler and Bill Standridge (who is not just an engine builder but an engineer and holds several world records). Hanging out with some of the best engineers in the country and picking their brains until I annoyed the hell out of them. I'm blessed to have such amazing resources just a phone call away now so if I have a question I can get it answered by literally the best automotive minds in the world vs looking it up on google. For fucks sake I just did an old Buick Indy engine and just sold it because it doesn't make power until after 7,000rpm and it has to rev past 12,000rpm to make full power, plus I would have to cut a hole in the hood for the intake bonnet but that's a little more complicated than a 300hp J series. The only thing you got right is I am more book smart than you but I have the experience to back it up and properly apply it.
I'm around people all the time that have forgotten more than I know. I know my place and I'm humble and that's why when I see some poser on the internet regurgitating crap he read but doesn't understand from google, talking out of his ass and trying to impress people that don't know any better, I'm going to say something about it. The only thing you have done is memorize the various changes in the J series over the years so you have a good knowledge of what's compatible with what. Congrats, you know more than I do in that area.
Once again, you fail to answer the most simple questions. You skipped all of the tech questions that were asked before this thing went downhill because you don't know the answer and you're too arrogant to just admit it or ask questions. Remember, you started this whole thing. You're the one that got shitty when I was trying to help you by saying it was "beginner crap" when you actually didn't know the answer.
The best was when you came into MY thread and said "another thread ruined by yours truly". Well, "yours truly" would be yourself. And you didn't bother reading any of the thread or you would have seen that I was the thread starter and your boy OP's first post (second of the thread) was a personal attack against me and way, way off topic. Lucky for you the mods deleted one of the dumbest things ever said (even for you) around here. The point being it shows you don't comprehend what you read or what you say. You come out with the personal attacks regardless of the content and context because you don't like me regardless of whether I'm right or not.
And let's not forget your PM asking for help. You can't do it on here because of your ego but you can surely do it behind the scenes. I actually gave you the answer early on in this thread but you were too busy trying to look like you know something in front of your audience to notice.
So let's not ruin this guy's thread anymore but anytime you need help, start a thread and I'll be more than happy to teach you anything you want to know. I had already dropped it once but you had to get your two cents in once again and bring it back up. Again, I put out what I need to put out there already so there's no more to say. Don't quote me or talk to me or about me and the thread will stay on topic and you won't have to worry about me exposing you anymore. You're incapable of comprehending anything so it's time to give up.
Maybe you didn't realize the TL comes stock with a forged steel crank and forged rods and 6 bolt mains and maybe that's why you didn't comprehend what I was saying when I mentioned forged internals and a great block and forged rods. What I said was, with such great stock (forged) internals and making under 300hp, how could one not be reliable? The TL has an excellent block and crank and the rods aren't too bad either. I don't know how you could possibly not comprehend what I said. You literally took it the opposite of how I meant it and stated it.
So again, no failures means squat. You have a factory bottom end that surpasses some good aftermarket forged parts and making such low hp, you would really have to screw up to have a failure. My last factory engine that was pulled out a few months ago had 60k on it making 602rwhp. That's on a 2 bolt main block that was designed in the '70s and meant for 110hp with the worst oiling system I've ever experienced first hand. The stock split throw cast crank (look up split throw on google). The stock cast iron rods. The only thing forged in my engines are the pistons because stock pistons are long gone. Now go make 600+hp on a cast iron bottom end, commute 210 miles round trip to work in it, put at least 60,000 miles on it and let me know how that works out for you.
You couldn't do it because it requires a TON of prep work and tricks you've never heard of on google to not push the crank out of the block or spit out a rod. It has to be built right, not just assembled. With a TL, 250-300hp on a stock forged bottom end is nothing, as I said a monkey could assemble it and it would be fairly reliable. The TL has a far superior bottom end to what I'm dealing with and if Acura would have put a little more meat into the rods and pushed the top ring land down a bit, you would see 1,000hp TLs without ever removing so much as a valve cover. So don't get hurt patting yourself on the back that you made a <300hp engine with forged internals live for a few thousand miles. The J series is an "easy" engine. Great factory parts, no inherent design problems, just easy.
I'm amazed you have the balls to call me book smart when you admittedly received your "skills" from google. I got mine in various ways, college, training under some of the best in the world such as Ken Duttweiler and Bill Standridge (who is not just an engine builder but an engineer and holds several world records). Hanging out with some of the best engineers in the country and picking their brains until I annoyed the hell out of them. I'm blessed to have such amazing resources just a phone call away now so if I have a question I can get it answered by literally the best automotive minds in the world vs looking it up on google. For fucks sake I just did an old Buick Indy engine and just sold it because it doesn't make power until after 7,000rpm and it has to rev past 12,000rpm to make full power, plus I would have to cut a hole in the hood for the intake bonnet but that's a little more complicated than a 300hp J series. The only thing you got right is I am more book smart than you but I have the experience to back it up and properly apply it.
I'm around people all the time that have forgotten more than I know. I know my place and I'm humble and that's why when I see some poser on the internet regurgitating crap he read but doesn't understand from google, talking out of his ass and trying to impress people that don't know any better, I'm going to say something about it. The only thing you have done is memorize the various changes in the J series over the years so you have a good knowledge of what's compatible with what. Congrats, you know more than I do in that area.
Once again, you fail to answer the most simple questions. You skipped all of the tech questions that were asked before this thing went downhill because you don't know the answer and you're too arrogant to just admit it or ask questions. Remember, you started this whole thing. You're the one that got shitty when I was trying to help you by saying it was "beginner crap" when you actually didn't know the answer.
The best was when you came into MY thread and said "another thread ruined by yours truly". Well, "yours truly" would be yourself. And you didn't bother reading any of the thread or you would have seen that I was the thread starter and your boy OP's first post (second of the thread) was a personal attack against me and way, way off topic. Lucky for you the mods deleted one of the dumbest things ever said (even for you) around here. The point being it shows you don't comprehend what you read or what you say. You come out with the personal attacks regardless of the content and context because you don't like me regardless of whether I'm right or not.
And let's not forget your PM asking for help. You can't do it on here because of your ego but you can surely do it behind the scenes. I actually gave you the answer early on in this thread but you were too busy trying to look like you know something in front of your audience to notice.
So let's not ruin this guy's thread anymore but anytime you need help, start a thread and I'll be more than happy to teach you anything you want to know. I had already dropped it once but you had to get your two cents in once again and bring it back up. Again, I put out what I need to put out there already so there's no more to say. Don't quote me or talk to me or about me and the thread will stay on topic and you won't have to worry about me exposing you anymore. You're incapable of comprehending anything so it's time to give up.
You go around this forum to fight and argue with anyone about everything and lose control when someone disputes the points you make or goes against your opinion. Save what's left of your ragged reputation and move along now to seek another thread or member to argue with because the only thing you're getting from me is the humiliation you've brought upon yourself.
I've got to go now. There's a newly published article on Google about "How to determine if a block is bad or not".
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thisaznboi88 (10-12-2014)
10-12-2014, 08:22 PM
#159