You noob we used to play this game
That's what he is talking about

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...854678&page=34

 

Hot air moves faster. :p

 

If you're looking for sound then Id do the resonator delete and just spend the money on a stage 2 or stage 3 exhaust mod. At least you get sound and you'll shave about 15 or 20 pounds.

 

I have some experience with short ram and CAI with 4 cylinders. I am not sure if this transfers to V6 but short ram was only good for higher RPM applications meaning anything over 8k and up redline. It showed that it loses power in the lower RPM's. The CAI was total opposite. CAI was only good for applications with lower RPM's below 8k redline.

 

You are right, shorter the intake/pipes, more power up top. Longer the pipe, you get more power down low to mid range. But with heat, it hurts AFR's and IAT's making you hurt performance.



I personally like the GruppM intake of all compared to SRI and CAI.

This is the same concept to our Jpipe debate as well.

 

I was looking at that intake also but my friend advised me against it because of the water build up.

 

"Good BOY-friends back each other up from modding cars."

 

/thread

 

Go BIG or go home. - says picture.

 

I know what you mean about more heat but this has been dyno'ed and it was proven that if you need higher RPM's you will need a short ram. everybodysmrunning high RPM's runs a short ram at the track

 

^^^ I totally agree....but here is the correct verbiage....

SRI will MOVE the powerband to the higher RPM and the CAI moves the powerband to the lower rpms....

but bouncer is SPOT on !!!

no matter if you have 100HP or 10000HP engine, if the air fuel mixture does not detonate as intended or if it ignites before the spark (due ot various reasons, heat is ONE main reason), then your engine will RETARD the timing and hence you will looooose a TON of power !!!

One thing to make sure is to have nice and COLD air in your intake....you can insulate the intake, OR you can separate it from the heat path, or whatever you want to do, just make sure its dont SUCKing up HOT air....

 

^^^ But Im saying regardless of temperature you will lose power if your car is high revving and your using CAI and the same goes for short ram and lower revving motors. Temperature will always alternate your power. But at the end of the day it doesnt matter these TL's will always need a CAI unless your going to modify it and rev above 8-9k RPMS.

 

O how i loveeee intake debates.

 

Can you qualify what you mean by "always need a CAI"? We have them from the factory and they don't place a restriction on an otherwise stock motor.

 

WOW really...

1> YOU DONT LOOSE POWER !!! it shifts the powerband....
2> even if you track the car, you are not always above 5K rpm !!! there are slow corners where you need power down low...so if your powerband is ALL high RPM, guess what, people are going past you in the corners
3> if you are more of a quarter mile kind of guy....before you get to 5K rpm, you have to start from 680rpm....so again, you will off to a slow start....

BOTTOM fuqqing line....if you are comparing ITB's to CAI, I would agree with you for the most part....but since you are comparing SRI to CAI, your argument is totally wrong....because I have had both setups and not much of a difference....

 

OK, lets review............what do we know for sure?
higher intake temps = pulled timing
pulled timing = reduced power
SRI = higher IAT

 

I never said the TL was restricted from CAI...

 

wow before you start rambling and acting like you know what your talking please do your research. Yes I am talking about drag racing and no...no ones starts off at 680 RPM's!!! I dont know what kind of drag racing your doing my car does not go below 6k RPM's I launch at 7k and redline at 8500 and when i shift the car is around 5500 RPM's Before you argue... please know what your talking about

 

I think we're mis-communicating. I'm sticking with my factory airbox and going to use the CAI money for...

 

So what kind of engine can launch at 7K and redline at 8500K on a FWD engine layout with stock all-season tires that you're on? Have you dyno'd the car and know what usuable power band you have?

 

I need to see this launch..........

 

Thanks bouncer.....finally someone who understands....

pohljm, if you make some kind of setup where the SRI is insulated from the heat, or relocate the IAT sensor, you wont have "lost power" since the timing will not be pulled....

I have my IAT relocated and I felt no difference from SRI to CAI....and back....and back LOL....

 

My CAI is insulated. I relocated the sensor but put it back as i did not notice any change other than a slight decrease in MPG. Figured that was due to slightly incorrect temp information being used.

 

THAT is CORRECT !!!

because the IAT reads a lot lower temps, the ECU makes the AF mixture, RICH....hence lower gas mileage....RICH AFR + Advanced timing = MORE POWER

My timing is always more than 30deg....only when am coasting the timing goes to 0 or -2deg and while idling, the timing is between 9 and 10degs.....

AFR while driving varies, while coasting, its 14.8-15.1....which is nice and lean....and while idling it is 14.2-14.4 (which is slightly rich)....I would like it to be around 14.6-14.7....

 

Where did you pick up this intake? I believe there was some thread on a 4-inch intake but I don't recall if someone was fabricating it or if it was a DIY job.

 

No sir...I did not buy from the vendor...

I think I bought the tubing from verocious motorsport....it was almost 2 years back, I need to look for it....

the tubing did not fit....so I cut off the straight part and used it as a SRI....then I used a 4" coupler which offers a little wiggle wiggle room and made it fit

 

I ran a SRI on my TL and switched to a cold air for kicks and notice no difference. Keep in mind with was with the butt dyno but still. All I wanted was the sound because ether way an intake isnt going add gobs of power.

 

If you read my first reply I said i dont have much experience with the TL or V6 engines...I was talking about 4 cylinders such as, h22 Prelude engines and B series engines such as GSR's and Type r engines. this is running on slicks with close gear ratios from the Integra type r transmission

 

how do i post videos on here?

 

Government makes it harder and harder for people to tune cars as the years goes by. Restrictions and regulations. You're talking about Cable throttle body intakes vs our DBW intakes. The only thing the J32/35 share in common to other high revving cars is that our J-series have a high compression ratio, which is detonation prone, or knock counts. My last car was a DBW K20z3 cammed tuned on Flashpro, one of the very first people learning how to tune it. there was lots of knock counts and tuning the engine was headache for the first 2 months as tuners started to figure out solutions. WIth time, it'll be the same with errors and trials. With it's high commpression as the TL, let me tell you that before flashpro even came out, adding an intake will actually make you lose power or have no gain. First educate on your car and see other people's trail errors. A lot of people here replying back to you have tried what has worked for them. With your past experiences, it will most definetly work in the same concept as the V6. It's a Honda after all.

 

yes i agree with you but that is why in the begining of my reply i said these experiences was from my h22 which is a 4 cylinder but i guess nobody read that.

 

Its a 3G TL forum, no one cares

 

This. The only other non acura engine that is useful to them is my engine, j30a4/5

 

Just installed an AEM V2 a few weeks ago over an ebay SRI. Honestly it drives the same aside from what feels like a better throttle response and the noise is awesome.

I noticed heatsoak alot more with the SRI my TL warmed up she got a bit sluggish. Doesn't seem to be an issue with the CAI.

Doing the TB bypass tomorrow to see if I notice anything else. Heatsoak is one of the biggest issues on the TL and an SRI just amplifys the problem.

As a side note if you go the way of inaccurate and the TL Diet a CAI does drop some weight over the stock airbox. It's not much but every pound counts.

 

Is the AEM CAI the best for our car?

 

Depends on what your after. Filtration? No. Stock is better. Sound? Any of the CAI's will work. Power? Not really gonna get anything worthwhile. Unless you have major supporting mods the best is to just modify your already existing stock CAI by removing the resonators.

 

most people buy the aem v2 (24-6110c). another popular one is the injen cai

 

This! Just swap out the OEM filter with a K&N and pull the resonator. Great sounds and great filtration. But I'm sure 50% of people on here want to say they have a cold air intake (Even though OEM is a cold air) and have a "cool" pipe under the hood.

 

I wouldnt bother with the K&N if you go that route. Stock filter flows more than enough and better filtration

 

Budding in this conversation: Any CAI will outflow the stock one with flashpro tuned.