Hello Everyone,

I am in the market for an after market intake system, specifically the K&N Typhoon Intake Kit. After doing some research, I noticed that getting an air intake would increase the chances for water to be collected into the engine. So here's the question, If I purchase a Short Ram Intake (K&N) would I be able to install it, without taking the whole stock intake system out.

I'm new to all this, so it might be a stupid question for many but because SRI installation doesn't require the system to be behind the bumper why go through the trouble of taking apart the whole stock intake.

 

i think your going to have to take the stock intake out to install a new one, no?and it should it be pretty easy since its not long ram and so a quick search you may find your answer. good luck

 

Short ram you can install without taking off bumper. Leave the factory resonator box and tubing in.

 

Short ram = hot air intake .... I installed my AEM CAI without removing the bumper at all. And have had it on a few years and no water issues. to have water issues you need to submerge the filter completely for it to suck it in.

 

Do it once do it right
What are you looking for exactly?

Don't buy K&N...I had it before
Take mine and test it if you want

Dammit you in Toronto

 

If you want a ram intake you might aswell make it yourself and slap a dry filter on it. Cant be too hard.

 

Friend has a SRI in a EVO and said its not much power loss maybe 1hp in the TL's.

 

He has no idea how intake works then.
You can't compare or give exact answer for a SRI

I tried many of them, open area K&N, with K&N filter or other filters
or trying to build heat shield for it blah blah
or trying to make it sit away from the engine and using smaller filter so it fits

What happens after a long drive in summer?
Heat everywhere in that bay

No matter what, it did suck that heat.

Don't know how hot evos engine bay gets but on TL it's pretty warm in there.

I lost power, more than 1hp while driving in city during summer. MPG drops like crazy as well. So noticeable

I had pretty good power at night and cold weathers in Boston,
but when I say summer in Boston, it's around +75F

So, stock intake is much better, as many mentions in here on AZ

I was defending SRI comparing to stock intake (during cold engine bay seconds)....... until I did a custom CAI

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People do recommend use stock intake and just remove the resonator, but I had this car for 7 years. I know times that even with stock intake, loss of power in city during hot summer time was noticeable

I hatted it it felt like a turbo lag, start offs from a redlight.. ugh

I've never had that with my CAI
That's why I don't recommend stock intake with no resonator

You get some air at high speeds but in city, you don't
and when filter is sitting on top there (in the bay) intake won't be able to suck too much air from the bottom of the filter

Hope I am clear

What CAI does is, doesn't stop sucking air until the bumper area.

That's the difference of a CAI
always at the bottom cold area

and no one could tell me stock intake box prevents heat in summer time. I still remember those times while city driving

Yes I paid at least $600 for the intakes on my car
Finally happy with it
270+180+50+50+50+25+25+50 yes definitely passed 600 goddammit
Most of it was before last year...times I didn't know about AZ

 

Best advice to give you and listen well

Look up intake resonator delete, it's a free simple mod that gives you the same sound as a CAI. Drop In a dry flow filter and be done. Spend money on something else.

I have pics in my progress thread if u want to take a look

 

^ Resonator delete is no were near the loudness of an actual cai.

 

^ good enough for my likings

 

Thanks for your input everyone.I really dont know what to do based on all your replies lol. So SRI is not worth getting, but can be installed without having to take all stock parts behind the bumper? I just want the SRI for the sound and for at least a few hp gain.

 

with the short ram intake you'll actually LOSE hp.
the engine is already a heat trap and placing a pipe near the engine to suck up all that hot air wont benefit anything.

there is no sense in doing the short ram intake.
unless you want to throw your money away

 

your best best is to get a full CAI or intake resonator delete and extend using existing velocity pipe

 

just got my K&N CAI off ebay. Took about 2 hours for installation. I love it. Love the sound

 

I went with the AEM CAI and I love it. Had to create a bypass due to almost flooding the engine.

 

If you want a bit of extra intake noise I noticed the intake noise more after removing the platic shrowdings and the matting from the underside of the hood plus added cooling benefits.

 

I thought the consensus was to leave the OEM CAI alone. Better filtration and takes in enough air. Is that not correct?

 

that is correct

 

Just installed an aem v2 over the weekend and I feel it helped in the top end when combined with my full exhaust and Hondata tune. Like all others say do other mods first, but with everything together I feel there is a benefit, just my opinion no actual dyno. Can barely hear the aem v2 over my exhaust at wot haha

 

Despite this probably being discussed hundreds of times already, and at the risk of getting flamed, I wanted to share some of my thoughts... Now maybe I'm wrong, but there seems to be a general lack of science behind most people's CAI claims. I wanted to share my thoughts in the hopes that someone will bash me with some serious knowledge!

1) I'm failing to see the benefit of relocating the filter along a closed air system. Some are saying that moving the filter outside of the engine bay is less restrictive on the air traveling through that path? That doesn't physically make sense. If you had a 100ft hose with a pebble in it at 99ft, it would be just as difficult to force fluid through as if the same pebble was at 1ft. What matters is only the size of the pebble IF it is a restriction at all. As many have tested, the stock airbox is not a restriction on airflow with an otherwise stock motor. Therefore the relocation of the filter and making it larger can do nothing for gains with an otherwise stock motor. No difference between stock and CAI.

2) The CAI draws air from the bumper area. The factory intake draws air from the bumper area. Therefore the source air temp is the same with both CAI and stock. They both suck from almost precisely the same place. No difference between stock and CAI.

3) The CAI makes a cool sound! The stock intake has a resonator which creates turbulence as a trade off for cabin sound (or lack thereof). Delete the resonator for smoother airflow through the intake tract and a cool sound, but the gains won't be measurable. Minor difference between stock and CAI.

4) As far as heat goes, this is where the CAI performs because it is designed as an insulated heat shield while the stock intake has no reflective/resistive properties at all. I believe that a properly insulated stock airbox will match the performance of a CAI on a stock engine. CAI wins.

5) Okay, CAI does look cool! CAI wins.

So it seems, gentlemen, that the only objective positive quality of a CAI is its thermal characteristics which can probably be matched with an insulated stock intake. Larger pipes/filters, air draw location, and filter location don't seem to matter at all on our TLs. Thoughts?

 

Filter location doesn't matter? Engine bay has same temp with inside the bumper?
I don't think so

 

would not matter.

a filter is a filtration device; meant to capture debris and small particles.
it doesnt care if there is hot air or cold air.

 

Hot air/Cold air does care performance wise though

 

he's talking about a cold air intake and the stock cold air system.
both are the same and provide cooler air, but one changes the filter location.

Personally, I'd rather have the filter close to the throttle body

 

Not only changing the filter location though, at the same time changing the locations of the section where intake pulls the air from.
^That's the real deal on CAI

During winter, stock and CAI is same deal but after 75F, engine bay heats the hell out of that airbox. So the more far away intake pulls the air from is much better, which in this case inside of the bumper

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I personally rather have close to the throttle body too. That's why I tried many ways to keep it short. It always sounded better to me, until I tried the CAI and bigger diameter pipe

 

^i think we're miss-communicating

 

The engine bay of course does not have the same temp as inside the bumper. However, both CAI and factory intake both draw air from the same place. This means that the air temperature entering the intake system is exactly the same.

And yes, I just can't see a way that the location of the filter matters at all. Perhaps the filter itself eventually gets warmed up if it's in the factory airbox location, but the filtering material that actually makes contact with the air passing through it is certainly a thermal insulator. Considering how important it is for the design engineers to squeeze as much power out of the platform as possible, it would be a catastrophe for an engine manufacturer such as Honda to use any material in an air filter that is thermally conductive to warm up the air going to the throttle. Again, the key point here is that the stock filter does not restrict the airflow. If it did, then this would increase the thermally conducted heat into the intake air. But it does not so negligible heat is transferred through the filter.

Now, have a look at the attached illustration. The obstruction in the path is identical and will provide the same amount of resistance to flow if placed at the input as if placed at the output. This is why I don't see how filter location makes a difference. (If it was an obstruction, and again, it's not.)

 

i don't want to get into a huge discussion about intakes because i know they provide minimal gain compared to other mods and this was my last mod on my list as well, but i just wanted to clear up about the flow path and resistance statements.

there are pressure losses due to fluid flow in a path from one spot to another and the loss depends on friction (major loss) and velocity changes due to bends (minor loss). a point location of resistance is correct in the way you showed it, however the big issue is the flow path. pressure loss increases with multiple bends (oem design), smaller diameter (compared to the bigger CAI diameters), and friction due to length (oem is longer).

for your hose analogy, given that you are using the same pressure at the beginning in both situations, the pebble at the beginning will see a higher pressure than the pebble downsteam (due to friction losses over length). pressure is force over area, so a smaller pressure relates to a smaller force when keeping area the same

in the end, i agree intakes will not provide a dramatic car driving experience change...but i just wanted to clear up a few things up. at least i agree that it looks cooler and draws in the same temp. air as the oem

 

I still have yet to figure out why they dont make a plastic tube aftermarket CAI. the AEM is polished Alum. metal is a conductor of heat so that tube is just gonna get hot from engine anyway. Plastic would drop the temp and therefore gain performance. wont have the shiny factor but would out perform metal tubing.

 

Over time both materials will be at the same temperature and conduct that thermal gain to the air charge, really not much of a difference. The metal will cool off quicker, so its pretty much a wash.

 

Thanks! This actually makes sense. I'm going to pick your brain for a moment.

So on an intake stroke, the piston draws in air by creating a negative pressure difference and I think we can assume that these pressure characteristics are relatively constant. I assume that the area in the pressure formula is referring to the cross sectional area that is perpendicular to the velocity of the air. Therefore my next question: if the pressure created at the intake of the engine is constant and the cross sectional area goes up with a CAI, that must mean that the force of the air also increases which results in less friction and velocity losses?

 

I actually did wonder if there would be any benefit to shield the oem set up from heat. Lining it with some sort of alum shield

 

Everyone has different THOUGHTS

After trying all those intakes, this is what my brain tells me.
Bigger the area filter pulls the air from, much faster reaction it is.

Why is there box kind of thing on top of the stock filter?
That's where the intake takes the air from MOSTLY. At city, no way air pushing itself from the bumper to inside the intake by passing the filter.
If your throttle is crazy big and able to pull great force, that's different.

^did you guys get this? And now imagine at city, what happens after that airbox heats up. Just imagine. I don't have to because I saw the difference after 6 years

Filter slows down the force. That's why there is box thingy on top of the filter.

If that doesn't make sense, how big is the spot behind the filter to pull air? Not that big

I mean even at high speeds air doesn't really go in to that velocity stack, unless you totally connected it to the L shape pipe that grabs the air from the fender.

If you have fogs there on UA6, I got nothing to say

Metal surface makes air flow better, unlike that spring shape plastic.

Even with CAI, you notice the difference on big/small filter.
I can't imagine how person would notice the difference after expanding that air area with a CAI from stock intake

You have to try it, intake is the thing that I couldn't explain on this website since a year

You feel it. It's not 0-60, it's not drag, it's the way you drive the car.
It's the second after you shift a gear, it's the response of the engine to the pedal, it's the gas after shifting at low rpms

I know everything about this car since 2006, air is the most important thing to me now after noticing the difference.

This is not science. Big filter, big diameter, metal, smooth shapes (NO AEM CAI) that's all

Not talking about every CAI out there. I am talking about mine
I only talk from what I experienced you guys know me

 

You can see my insulation on the AEM intake. delays heat soak substantially. nevermind the board that was from a photo challenge pic.

 

well I dont think you are going to win any photo challenges with a dirty engine bay! clean that shit up next time

 

How about spraying it with ceramic coating :p

 

Way to boost your post count with the most pointless comment ever.

 

Bruce, you need some thickness with a material with some R value.

 

not boosting, its filthy and u entered that pic for a contest??