Installing Rear Sway Bar on 2006 TL
07-10-2006, 01:06 PM
#1
Installing Rear Sway Bar on 2006 TL
I'm interested in replacing the 17mm rear sway bar on my auto TL with the 20mm bar from the 6-speed TL for the purpose of slightly better handling without impacting ride comfort. I'm only interested in the Acura bar - not aftermarket. Has anyone changed out their rear bar? Any extra parts required other than the bar. What is degree of difficulty or is it a dealer only job. I'm somewhat mechanical (perform own oil/filter changes and tire rotations) but no great expert. Does anyone have the drawing of the rear suspension showing the rear sway bar. Thanks for all the help. This site has provided me with a real education. Steve 
07-10-2006, 01:22 PM
#2
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Yes PM Silver Bullet , we just installed a comptech RSB on his 6MT last week...
no extra parts.
very easy install.
do a search, you'll see some pics of the installs people have done.
no extra parts.
very easy install.
do a search, you'll see some pics of the installs people have done.
07-10-2006, 01:35 PM
#5
I changed my OEM to the Comptech one about 4 weeks before I put on the a-spec suspension.
The Comptech RSB made a HUGE difference in the handling of the car, without sacrificing ride quality at all.
The a-spec kit made a difference too, but the ride quality is impacted slightly.
I would suggest getting the Comptech RSB rather than the MT OEM one...the difference of 20-22mm isn't going to be all that noticable.
That being said, you might be able to find someone on these boards that's selling their OEM MT RSB who put in a Comptech one. The installation is the same between the 2 models, and if you have a decent set of metric tools (ratchets...and open end box ratchets is a special tool needed to do this install)...it's a piece of cake, took me under 30 mins.
The Comptech RSB made a HUGE difference in the handling of the car, without sacrificing ride quality at all.
The a-spec kit made a difference too, but the ride quality is impacted slightly.
I would suggest getting the Comptech RSB rather than the MT OEM one...the difference of 20-22mm isn't going to be all that noticable.
That being said, you might be able to find someone on these boards that's selling their OEM MT RSB who put in a Comptech one. The installation is the same between the 2 models, and if you have a decent set of metric tools (ratchets...and open end box ratchets is a special tool needed to do this install)...it's a piece of cake, took me under 30 mins.
07-10-2006, 02:23 PM
#6
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Installation is the same...I removed my MT RSB and put on the CT one in about 20 minutes (no need to disassemble the exhaust as the instructions note). I sold my OEM rear sway bar to a local guy for $25. He put it on his new Honda Accord, and it bolted right up.
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Midnight Mystery (07-24-2020)
07-12-2006, 01:06 PM
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Never go to the dealer for this to be done!
I took mine to a local independent repair shop I've been doing business with for years. Their mechanic did it about 7½ minutes once up on the lift. Same amount of time it takes to change the oil.
I took mine to a local independent repair shop I've been doing business with for years. Their mechanic did it about 7½ minutes once up on the lift. Same amount of time it takes to change the oil.
07-12-2006, 04:52 PM
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2 questions.
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
07-12-2006, 08:48 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Selucid
is it worth while to up grade to CT if you have a manual?
The difference is subtle yet noticable. Best bang for the buck.
.
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07-12-2006, 09:09 PM
#14
For sure it will. Your buddy just need to buy the TL swaybar brackets ($0.86 or so from Hondacuraworld). You can use the original TL bushings.
If the Accord is a 4 banger, there's an exhaust hanger right in front of the bar that has to be bent a little to allow some clearance. It'll all make more sense when you look at it from under the car.
Accord V6 doesn't have this hanger, so installation is even easier. Everything lines up perfectly.
I just installed my OEM TL 6MT bar on my 06 Accord SE. It literally transforms the car by going from 14 mm (OEM Accord swaybar) to 20 mm.
If the Accord is a 4 banger, there's an exhaust hanger right in front of the bar that has to be bent a little to allow some clearance. It'll all make more sense when you look at it from under the car.
Accord V6 doesn't have this hanger, so installation is even easier. Everything lines up perfectly.
I just installed my OEM TL 6MT bar on my 06 Accord SE. It literally transforms the car by going from 14 mm (OEM Accord swaybar) to 20 mm.
Originally Posted by dennisil
will my stock 17mm RSB fit a 2005 honda accord 2 door model I have purchased the CT 22MM bar and want to donate the stock RSB to my buddy???? HELP ME! 
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Midnight Mystery (07-24-2020)
07-13-2006, 08:15 AM
#16
You don't need to relieve the suspension to make this mod. If you put the car up on ramps, you can should be able to remove the old RSB and install the Comptech, in about 30 minutes. Follow the installs documented in the forum.
I took my '06 6MT to a local shop for the install and I'm sorry I did. They charged me $47 and they scratched the Comptech up badly and didn't center the RSB properly. I had to loosen everything up, remove the Energy Suspension bushings to lubricate them and reinstall to get it to stop making noise..
The Comptech RSB doesn't make a big difference on the 6MT, but it does make a difference. It tightens up the rear end, improves the turn in and reduces the body roll at the back of the car. It's worth the $120.
I took my '06 6MT to a local shop for the install and I'm sorry I did. They charged me $47 and they scratched the Comptech up badly and didn't center the RSB properly. I had to loosen everything up, remove the Energy Suspension bushings to lubricate them and reinstall to get it to stop making noise..
The Comptech RSB doesn't make a big difference on the 6MT, but it does make a difference. It tightens up the rear end, improves the turn in and reduces the body roll at the back of the car. It's worth the $120.
07-13-2006, 03:15 PM
#18
Originally Posted by brianp6621
2 questions.
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
Has anyone that has changed the rear bar themselves remember if when you jacked the car up, the rear wheels were hanging or did you drive up on ramps? A brief instruction write-up would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
07-13-2006, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cristphoto
I don't want to go too large on the rear bar (which will be the case with aftermarket). It's real easy to get oversteer and then have a twitchy car. Plus I know an Acura part is designed for the car.
Has anyone that has changed the rear bar themselves remember if when you jacked the car up, the rear wheels were hanging or did you drive up on ramps? A brief instruction write-up would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Has anyone that has changed the rear bar themselves remember if when you jacked the car up, the rear wheels were hanging or did you drive up on ramps? A brief instruction write-up would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I had the car up on jackstands with the wheels in the air. It really doesn't matter, as long as both wheels are either up or down....not one up and the other down.
07-14-2006, 06:33 AM
#20
2018 TLX A-SPEC
This mod is a sinch, I do them all the time in about 10 mins. Raise the car up in the back so both wheels are off the ground and even with each other. Remove the two endlink nuts on the ends of the OEM bar. They are 14mm bolts. You will need to hold the inside of the endlink shaft with an allen wrench to remove them. I think 5mm is the size for the allen wrench. Once you have the allen wrench in the shaft to hold it in place use a 14mm wrench to remove the bolt. soaking it down with some WD-40 will help make it easier to come off.
After doing that on both sides remove the two bar clamps. It has two 12mm bolts on each side. After that you can slide the bar out towards the passenger side. You have to flex it around a bit but it will come out. Remember how the bar was facing when it was in the car as the new bar will need to go in the same way.
Now, get the rubber bushings that came with the Comptech bar. Use some grease and lube up the inside part that will fit on the bar, this will prevent noise. Put those on the new bar. Look at how they are on the old bar if you need help figuring out where they go. Then put the new bar on the car and reinstall everything in reverse order of how it came off.
Now go enjoy the twisties
D.
After doing that on both sides remove the two bar clamps. It has two 12mm bolts on each side. After that you can slide the bar out towards the passenger side. You have to flex it around a bit but it will come out. Remember how the bar was facing when it was in the car as the new bar will need to go in the same way.
Now, get the rubber bushings that came with the Comptech bar. Use some grease and lube up the inside part that will fit on the bar, this will prevent noise. Put those on the new bar. Look at how they are on the old bar if you need help figuring out where they go. Then put the new bar on the car and reinstall everything in reverse order of how it came off.
Now go enjoy the twisties
D.
07-15-2006, 01:27 PM
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Unbelievable!!!! I have just completed my installation of the rear sway bar and went for a test drive and all I have to say is unbelievable!!!! $110 dollars ($130 w’ shipping) has never in my day changed a car so drastically, I have a 06’ auto w’ NAVI TL. Even from a stop light the sway bar dramatically reduces the cars natural tendency to lean away from the turn. The car is now even more responsive while maneuvering around potholes and stuff. I you have an automatic TL this minor upgrade will make a major difference. I was satisfied with the TL’s acceleration and don’t like the idea of a $4000.00 dollar supercharger upgrade but I am always open to suspension/braking upgrades. Dose anyone else has any suggestions for upgrades in these areas that are as dramatic as the Comptech RSB?
Oh yes and the instalation was a breeze thanks for all the help from this and other Acurazine threadz!!!
Oh yes and the instalation was a breeze thanks for all the help from this and other Acurazine threadz!!!
07-16-2006, 04:40 PM
#22
Hehe...I did the same installation and what a difference on my AT! Next, 4 weeks later I added the Acura a-spec suspension...another huge performance increase. Again, did it myself...suspension was like $700 though so cost a lot more than the RSB, but worth it.
07-19-2006, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by brianp6621
2 questions.
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
For Chrisphoto
1) Out of curiousity, why won't you consider aftermarket?
For Everyone
2) Do you have to relieve the suspension (meaning lift the car to do this) or can you just put the car up on ramps and switch it?
There is a significant difference between the stiffness of the 22mm Computec bar and the 20mm from the 6mt-- unless someone is giving you the 6mt bar, I'd pop for the extra bucks and get the 22mm bar-- it really is worth the $. If there we little or no difference-- 6mt owners would not be changing thiers. . .
I have a 5at -- I noticed a very significant reduction in body roll in quick, tight turns-- much better handling. I really did not notice much of difference in the normal ride-- certainly one would notice some change, if they were going orer a lot of bumps with just one side of the car. The stiffer bar ties the "independent" rear suspension together a little tighter than the stock bar.
07-20-2006, 11:04 AM
#25
Rick -
Thanks for the post. Do you still have the installation instructions for the bar? Could you email them. I want to make sure I'm not getting in too deep. I hear this is an easy job, and seeing the instructions would ease my mind. Thanks.
cristphoto@aol.com
Thanks for the post. Do you still have the installation instructions for the bar? Could you email them. I want to make sure I'm not getting in too deep. I hear this is an easy job, and seeing the instructions would ease my mind. Thanks.
cristphoto@aol.com
07-20-2006, 01:39 PM
#27
Thanks Auburn. If that's all there is to it I'll jump on the project. I thought I read a post somewhere that you had to remove or drop the exhaust. That didn't sound appealing to me.
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