so basically not allowing the ECU to see the brakelights then , i still like my solution BETTER






edit: btw i don't think the VSA is kicking in any either, but might be worth a shot though (and even then at the track it should be grippier so traction should not be an issue there, or having VSA even kick in there....)



edit: edit: have you tried dropping the tire pressure down a couple of PSI (like to the low 30's to the high 20's) from what you are currently running too, to get rid of the tire chirping and any sort of traction issues?

 

14s is all a non fi auto s can do imo

 

Looks like the stall came way up on the converter. Maybe they're not super tight, the ECU just keeps the power down off the start.

 

I think the same was basically happening as I mentioned for the 05 tl, with the evidence holding back the launch with either reduced power or starting in second

 

There's definitely a power cut going on. We know for sure since Bert's turbo TL was showing 16" of vacuum with the gas to the floor and the brakes on. That can't be more than 25% throttle.

Just today I was trying to make a left turn in front of traffic and there weren't a lot of opportunities so I knew I would have to punch it when I had an opening. Totally by accident from driving the turbo car since I was a teenager, I brought the rpms up against the brakes so the power would be there when I needed it. Once I punched it, there was hardly anything there and then full power came in a second later. It was a little scary at first.

If only we could interrupt the signal to the ECU and have the lights still work.

 

Fucking phone editing



But when I get home, let me look at the 3g service manual, need it for my trans lol, but there should be a wire that yoy can put a switch on to interrupt the signal to the ecu, so you can select when you want to be able to launch harder
The reason I say a switch is because idk if the ecu would throw a code for never seeing the brake switch; but also remember it will also affect driveability with it disconnected, such as when you push the braket,s drops the intake vacuum slightly because of the booster, yes the ecu compensates for conditions such as that...

 

BTW lights should still work too, biggest thing for before was so nothing was permanent yet

 

home already lol







it's not the best , but anyways B goes to a fuse and power, and then G goes to the ELD not quite sure why though

also if you notice, one of the circuits is normally closed while the other one is normally open; ie: the main reason i see the ECU possibly throwing a code, if not done riight, because other wise it would not be seeing each signal alternating with each other


so a doable pole, triple pole switch might be needed in order to keep the ECU happy






btw not quite sure on this one either but if indeed it was permently cut those wires, i don'5t thing the cruise control migh not disengage when you push on the brake either, due to not signal getting to it

 

Definitely keep looking into a way to disconnect the yaw sensor as well. It should be close to the middle of the car. The yaw control system should work the same as the one used in Nissan's, possibly the same system and make. Lots of G/Z owners install manual switches to disconnect the yaw sensor. When you disconnect the yaw sensor, it completely turns off traction control and stability control while still leaving the brake lights and the ABS system on.

I've never run my G at the strip with either the brake lamp fuse pulled or yaw sensor disengaged. I've played around with it in a parking lot and the car will easily do a burnout without them in place. It's hard to tell if the launch is harder since the car is RWD and the weight transfer and lack of low end torque can sometimes bog the car down in the launch. The car gets consistent high 2.1s to low 2.2s which is okay. With the systems off, there might be a mild improvement. I'll have to try it. I'm not expecting 2.0s though. The car just doesn't have torque in NA form or enough launch rpm.

Judging from the video posted, the TL sure looks are bit quicker and more responsive in 1st with the brake fuse pulled. Maybe this is the key to getting 5AT TLs into the 2.1 60 foot range. Remember, every .1 seconds in 60 foot equates to .15 seconds on the far end. Going from a 2.4 to a 2.1 is at least .4 seconds on the far end.

 

reviving this thread to see if any success was had with the fuses and/or mdx spacer... or if the OEM exhaust (or parts of it) was put back in