HONDATA release of adapter kit '04-'06 TL/'03-'07 Accord
#43
Race Director
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^Yes.
#46
Former Sponsor
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Honestly I be surprised if it got much less. I've gotten quotes for a custom harness before and it was in the $300 range. Since the CAN adapter is $50 then this harness must be running about $300 retail. And that's the retail price. Also, it's backed up by HONDATA. So you can be sure it's correct, the first time.
#47
Safety Car
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its cheaper to buy from hondata the AEM harness is 180 bucks + shipping + the time and labor you need to put it all together. I just happen to have another harness, but I still need to buy the 50 dollar canbus thingy.
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JustusJs (10-22-2013)
#50
Made my own harness a couple months ago. Thought about making more but I want to be able to test them. And I haven't tested my own yet due to some financial things popping up. But it will be tested with in the next 30 days. Can't wait
#51
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
Honestly its cheaper to build your own harness from scratch.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
#52
Honestly its cheaper to build your own harness from scratch.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
#53
Safety Car
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where is the PDF? I need the green connector and pins for the CAN-BUS hook up.
Honestly its cheaper to build your own harness from scratch.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
I posted the P/N for the edge connector (big one on the ECM) in the other ECM swap thread. If you take a look at the pdf, it also has the P/N for all of the smaller connectors that you need to build the harness.
Anyhow, looking up all the parts its only about $50 or less to build one yourself.
I've ordered edge connectors already for mine, two of them, and they were like $13 each and thats the most expensive connector of the lot. The other connectors are like $4 each, then its just wires and pins which are even cheaper. The pins add up though, especially if you go with gold plated. But its still under $80 to build two harnesses with gold-plated pins.
#54
Safety Car
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I think I found a flaw in the wiring harness (or at least in my wiring harness). For accord people E14 (PDSW) is relocated by D17 (ECT). But on the TL 07-08 ecu there is no PDSW anywhere. This is the A/C pressure switch.
using this pin out. For the 2005 TL E14 is the same as the accord. For the 06 and 07 TL there is not PDSW. So do we lose A/C?
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/ecu-pin-charts-876828/
using this pin out. For the 2005 TL E14 is the same as the accord. For the 06 and 07 TL there is not PDSW. So do we lose A/C?
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/ecu-pin-charts-876828/
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 10-23-2013 at 07:09 PM.
#55
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
I haven't received my edge connectors yet. The last I have from them is that they were supposed to ship around 21 October, I have to contact them again. The ship date ended up getting pushed out.
Not sure exactly which ones those are. Would have to find the correct pins, they make a whole array of them. For example if you look at this:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Con...IDS=100545&N=1
That's for the 17 pin housing that goes in the edge connector, the application specs sheet has the different pins with some a hand tool P/N used to crimp the connectors on.
Something I'm still sorting through, since I haven't ordered the housings or pins yet.
Last with DIYing your own harness by building it from the connectors there are obvious concerns I have still.
- The edge connector pins all have a 90 degree bend in them on the back, since its designed to be mounted to a PCB. If its cut at these bends then the pin will just slide out of the edge connector.
-- To fix this I intend to solder some of the housing pins onto the ends where it would mount to a PCB with wires attached then cover them with heat shrink in order to prevent them from shorting together. I'm not going to cut the connector at all, so my large connector will have the wires coming off it at 90 degrees from the mating plugs as opposed to straight out the back like the AEM and hondata harness. I have yet to receive one and see if its feasible yet though, which is why I only ordered the edge connector first.
- The edge connector pins will be exposed, due to the 90 degree bend on the back.
-- I plan to make something to cover them up, so as to prevent shorting them to anything inside the car. Still deciding how to do this, but I'm thinking potting compound. Otherwise I'll have to make a custom housing to fit over it.
Anyhow, I'm not doing the ECM swap, I'm planning on making my harness so I can run the MS3-PRO without cutting my stock harness since I have an 05 AT.
Here's the site that you can use to find these connectors and their associated part numbers:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Con...998,14415&LG=1
Finding a site to order parts from is a different story. A lot of places have a minimum order quantity of like 100 for these components, since they're not normally stocked.
I got lucky with online components and noticed that they had some coming in and had no minimum order quantity on them. Placed an order and the arrival date got pushed out further since they're still waiting on them to arrive.
You can also find housings and pins here:
http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sho...3plaku3n6qsdc1
But they're a little more expensive there than if you ordered them from someplace like allied electronics, newark, online components or digikey. I'm sure there are others.
The trick to finding these is checking multiple sites for the part numbers. Also on the Tyco Electronics site you can find a few different part numbers for the same connector sometime, just slightly different specs on them, but the others should work as well as long as the mating and dimensions are the same.
I'm also going to probably need to find and buy the appropriate crimping tool for those pins.
All in all, its going to be a lot simpler to buy from Hondata. But building your own harness is do-able.
Oh.. here's a drawing of the connectors I ordered, with their associated housing part numbers:
The 'Plug Housings' in english in note 4 are the mating housings that go with the edge connector. This one is for the '05 AT.
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Con...IDS=100545&N=1
That's for the 17 pin housing that goes in the edge connector, the application specs sheet has the different pins with some a hand tool P/N used to crimp the connectors on.
Something I'm still sorting through, since I haven't ordered the housings or pins yet.
Last with DIYing your own harness by building it from the connectors there are obvious concerns I have still.
- The edge connector pins all have a 90 degree bend in them on the back, since its designed to be mounted to a PCB. If its cut at these bends then the pin will just slide out of the edge connector.
-- To fix this I intend to solder some of the housing pins onto the ends where it would mount to a PCB with wires attached then cover them with heat shrink in order to prevent them from shorting together. I'm not going to cut the connector at all, so my large connector will have the wires coming off it at 90 degrees from the mating plugs as opposed to straight out the back like the AEM and hondata harness. I have yet to receive one and see if its feasible yet though, which is why I only ordered the edge connector first.
- The edge connector pins will be exposed, due to the 90 degree bend on the back.
-- I plan to make something to cover them up, so as to prevent shorting them to anything inside the car. Still deciding how to do this, but I'm thinking potting compound. Otherwise I'll have to make a custom housing to fit over it.
Anyhow, I'm not doing the ECM swap, I'm planning on making my harness so I can run the MS3-PRO without cutting my stock harness since I have an 05 AT.
Here's the site that you can use to find these connectors and their associated part numbers:
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Con...998,14415&LG=1
Finding a site to order parts from is a different story. A lot of places have a minimum order quantity of like 100 for these components, since they're not normally stocked.
I got lucky with online components and noticed that they had some coming in and had no minimum order quantity on them. Placed an order and the arrival date got pushed out further since they're still waiting on them to arrive.
You can also find housings and pins here:
http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sho...3plaku3n6qsdc1
But they're a little more expensive there than if you ordered them from someplace like allied electronics, newark, online components or digikey. I'm sure there are others.
The trick to finding these is checking multiple sites for the part numbers. Also on the Tyco Electronics site you can find a few different part numbers for the same connector sometime, just slightly different specs on them, but the others should work as well as long as the mating and dimensions are the same.
I'm also going to probably need to find and buy the appropriate crimping tool for those pins.
All in all, its going to be a lot simpler to buy from Hondata. But building your own harness is do-able.
Oh.. here's a drawing of the connectors I ordered, with their associated housing part numbers:
The 'Plug Housings' in english in note 4 are the mating housings that go with the edge connector. This one is for the '05 AT.
Last edited by mzilvar; 10-23-2013 at 10:14 PM.
#57
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
I noticed a wire on theirs was jumpered, straight from one housing pin to another in the photos and don't really know what they did there.
I think the AC input to the ECM is probably for part of the throttle control input, so it can adjust the throttle plate when the AC clutch is engaged to keep the idle at an appropriate level, but I don't really know I'd have to dig into the 05 service manual to see what its for, then would need to cross to the 07-08 service manual (which I don't have) to see what is different there.
#58
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
Here:
That's the best component level drawing I can find in the service manual. Unfortunately the service manual doesn't go into detail as to how the ECM on the '05 handles that circuit.
Ideally you'd want to find the equivalent circuit, perhaps re-named, on the '07 or '08 ECM and cross the PDSW wire over to whatever they re-named it. I'm sure the ECM on the 07/08 has an input for it since it's still drive-by-wire.
If you read in the PGM-FI section the ECM adjusts idle for the following things:
- A/C On
- Power Steering Pump Switch engaged
- Alternator Charging
- Brake Pedal depressed
The ECT is your Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, should verify against service manual schematics to verify all of your pins that you're crossing due to the differences between the two.
Hope that helps, I think thats why Hondata did that testing, sort of the R&D to make sure the new ECM was going to play nice with all of the older sensors and the harness that they developed to cross the two over.
That's the best component level drawing I can find in the service manual. Unfortunately the service manual doesn't go into detail as to how the ECM on the '05 handles that circuit.
Ideally you'd want to find the equivalent circuit, perhaps re-named, on the '07 or '08 ECM and cross the PDSW wire over to whatever they re-named it. I'm sure the ECM on the 07/08 has an input for it since it's still drive-by-wire.
If you read in the PGM-FI section the ECM adjusts idle for the following things:
- A/C On
- Power Steering Pump Switch engaged
- Alternator Charging
- Brake Pedal depressed
The ECT is your Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, should verify against service manual schematics to verify all of your pins that you're crossing due to the differences between the two.
Hope that helps, I think thats why Hondata did that testing, sort of the R&D to make sure the new ECM was going to play nice with all of the older sensors and the harness that they developed to cross the two over.
#62
Senior Moderator
There is more to being able to tune than just a peak number, Smoothing out the entire powerband and making driveability much better is what it can do and should be used for. Something that a dyno chart cant really show as much as you can feel. Especially those who have modded their cars
#63
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
^^
I don't want to see a dyno to focus on a peak number, but I'd like to see the entire picture. Not many people are willing to spend $1500-2000 to make their TL run smoother. The fact that a smoother running car is a secondary benefit in addition to gaining power is definitely a plus though.
I don't want to see a dyno to focus on a peak number, but I'd like to see the entire picture. Not many people are willing to spend $1500-2000 to make their TL run smoother. The fact that a smoother running car is a secondary benefit in addition to gaining power is definitely a plus though.
#64
There is more to being able to tune than just a peak number, Smoothing out the entire powerband and making driveability much better is what it can do and should be used for. Something that a dyno chart cant really show as much as you can feel. Especially those who have modded their cars
#66
There is more to being able to tune than just a peak number, Smoothing out the entire powerband and making driveability much better is what it can do and should be used for. Something that a dyno chart cant really show as much as you can feel. Especially those who have modded their cars
#67
04' tl 6 spd
#69
All motor
I will have a dyno shortly.
#70
#75
All motor
Sorry guys I didn't mean today...aiming for Saturday but I haven't heard a response yet.
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thisaznboi88 (10-30-2013)
#76
#78
All motor
The Dynojet. Last time Miller & Steve said I could get free pulls because of what happened with the FIC. He also said I could get revisions done for $200, so I'm hopinggg that carries over to FlashPro as well, since he is very familiar with the FlashPro.
Unfortunately (for me at least), they are racing this weekend and unavailable to tune. So it will have to be next weekend.
I doubt I will make 282. I made 268 last time on that dyno, which was a loss of 4whp, and even more (6ish) from 4K to redline. Not really sure why, only difference was the valve adjustment. Maybe my valves are suffering? Now I'm just making up stuff to make myself feel better LOL. I'm hoping for 277 tuned.
Unfortunately (for me at least), they are racing this weekend and unavailable to tune. So it will have to be next weekend.
I doubt I will make 282. I made 268 last time on that dyno, which was a loss of 4whp, and even more (6ish) from 4K to redline. Not really sure why, only difference was the valve adjustment. Maybe my valves are suffering? Now I'm just making up stuff to make myself feel better LOL. I'm hoping for 277 tuned.
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thisaznboi88 (10-31-2013)