Gutted the car some more....
OR
You can redneck it and put a sheet of aluminum up there and spray paint it to match the roof with a tad bit of epoxy.
Moving on to my next group of weight reduction modifications, I'm thinking about buying the Carbon Fiber hood from Seibon (sp?), Recaro Lightweight bucket seats, Enkei RPF1's, and Tein SA coils to round off the lightweight performance package. Any other suggestions and do they make a carbon fiber trunk for our cars?
Ran the car in the quarter mile, did terrible.
Zero fucking traction for almost 7 seconds. Horrible reaction time, horrible everything. This car is EASILY a 13 second car with slicks. This was my first time ever going to the strip so I did everything you could possibly do wrong. Ran 17 @98mph.
The run, which was done on an eighth tank of gas. I'm so fucking mad. Those tires are to blame.
Current Mods:
AEM 3.25 inch Cold Air Intake
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
EGR Valve Bypass
J37 Throttle Body
J37 Intake Manifold
P2R J37 Throttle Body Spacer
P2R J37 Intake Manifold Spacer
P2R J37 TB Thermal Gasket x2
P2R J37 IM Thermal Gasket x1
RV6 Hi-Flow PreCats
ATLP V2 J-Pipe
JE Test Pipe
Vibrant 2.5 inch Inlet/Outlet Ultra Quiet Resonator
XLR8 Y-Pipe
Rear Mufflers Delete w/ XLR8 Single Tips
UR Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley
AEM Fuel/Ignition Controller
BoomSlang Adapter Harness
BrakeLogic Drilled/Slotted Front & Rear Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
BFGoodrich GForce Comp2 A/S Rubber
Pro-Tuned By JE Import Performance
Pending Mods:
Braille Lightweight Battery
Transmission Cooler
-----------------------------------------------
Weight Savings:
Static Weight -
Hood Insulation (2lbs)
Stock Airbox Replaced w/ CAI (8lbs)
Weather Strip (above hood) (2lbs)
Engine Bay Covers (6lbs)
Spare Tire (36lbs)
Rear Floor Mats (6lbs)
Rear Seat (46lbs)
Interior Carpeting + Insulation (25lbs)
Door and Center Console Trim (10lbs)
Front Floor Mats (5lbs)
Glove Box (9lbs)
Trunk Insulation (23lbs)
Lighter Exhaust Parts (30lbs)
Lighter Intake Manifold (8lbs)
Side Air Bags (10lbs)
Air Bag Trim Pieces (4lbs)
UR Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley (7lbs)
Headliner and Plastic Bracket (6lbs)
Rear Door Panels (14lbs)
Center Console (13lbs)
Rear Speaker + Rear Sub (8lbs)
Rear Seat Belts (6lbs)
Rear Speaker Cover (5lbs)
Foot Rest Plate (1.2lbs)
Partial Firewall Insulation (6lbs)
Radio Delete (6.5lbs)
Metal Front/Rear Door Accent Trim (2lbs)
Front Door Panels and Front Speakers (22.5lbs)
DVD Drive + Touch Sensor + Buttons (5.5lbs)
Rear Wheel Well Insulation (3lbs)
Official scale weight: 3200lbs
The run, which was done on an eighth tank of gas. I'm so fucking mad. Those tires are to blame.
Current Mods:
AEM 3.25 inch Cold Air Intake
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
EGR Valve Bypass
J37 Throttle Body
J37 Intake Manifold
P2R J37 Throttle Body Spacer
P2R J37 Intake Manifold Spacer
P2R J37 TB Thermal Gasket x2
P2R J37 IM Thermal Gasket x1
RV6 Hi-Flow PreCats
ATLP V2 J-Pipe
JE Test Pipe
Vibrant 2.5 inch Inlet/Outlet Ultra Quiet Resonator
XLR8 Y-Pipe
Rear Mufflers Delete w/ XLR8 Single Tips
UR Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley
AEM Fuel/Ignition Controller
BoomSlang Adapter Harness
BrakeLogic Drilled/Slotted Front & Rear Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
BFGoodrich GForce Comp2 A/S Rubber
Pro-Tuned By JE Import Performance
Pending Mods:
Braille Lightweight Battery
Transmission Cooler
-----------------------------------------------
Weight Savings:
Static Weight -
Hood Insulation (2lbs)
Stock Airbox Replaced w/ CAI (8lbs)
Weather Strip (above hood) (2lbs)
Engine Bay Covers (6lbs)
Spare Tire (36lbs)
Rear Floor Mats (6lbs)
Rear Seat (46lbs)
Interior Carpeting + Insulation (25lbs)
Door and Center Console Trim (10lbs)
Front Floor Mats (5lbs)
Glove Box (9lbs)
Trunk Insulation (23lbs)
Lighter Exhaust Parts (30lbs)
Lighter Intake Manifold (8lbs)
Side Air Bags (10lbs)
Air Bag Trim Pieces (4lbs)
UR Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley (7lbs)
Headliner and Plastic Bracket (6lbs)
Rear Door Panels (14lbs)
Center Console (13lbs)
Rear Speaker + Rear Sub (8lbs)
Rear Seat Belts (6lbs)
Rear Speaker Cover (5lbs)
Foot Rest Plate (1.2lbs)
Partial Firewall Insulation (6lbs)
Radio Delete (6.5lbs)
Metal Front/Rear Door Accent Trim (2lbs)
Front Door Panels and Front Speakers (22.5lbs)
DVD Drive + Touch Sensor + Buttons (5.5lbs)
Rear Wheel Well Insulation (3lbs)
Official scale weight: 3200lbs
Last edited by TheTLProject; May 15, 2016 at 04:47 PM.
Jesus, what are you running for tires? 98mph won't be enough for 13's even on slicks; with the 5AT's dismal torque converter, you'd probably see low 14's. Still not bad for an automatic TL. I commend you for making the effort to actually hit the track!
Just say screw it and throw a 100 shot on there.
Just say screw it and throw a 100 shot on there.
Jesus, what are you running for tires? 98mph won't be enough for 13's even on slicks; with the 5AT's dismal torque converter, you'd probably see low 14's. Still not bad for an automatic TL. I commend you for making the effort to actually hit the track!
Just say screw it and throw a 100 shot on there.
Just say screw it and throw a 100 shot on there.
The car is slow enough (general term, no offense) that you aren't gonna be losing a lot of mph by spinning.
For instance, I've seen drag cars run a slower mph when they don't get traction, but that's a car that runs say 130mph with traction and will run 125 without it.
In the high 90s traps, most cars will trap that with or without traction though. Using pure conjecture, you may have 1 or 2 mph more on a dead hook run, but that is optimistic just based on the poopy gear ratios of the automatic.
There's quite a few HP/1/4mile/et calculators out there and just using one, based on your weight and trap speed, it estimates 242HP, which is about what you made.
I surely doubt the track was like an ice rink- was everyone spinning that bad down the track? Surely not, or it would have been dangerous for the fast cars. Your tires were a bit over inflated, but they aren't drag radials or slicks, so you won't gain much by running less pressure.
It's interesting that you said it was your first time to the track and you did everything you could wrong, yet you only blame the tires. You had the !driver mod in full effect. There's more to drag racing than smashing the pedal when the light turns green. Own it and know you don't know what you're doing and the only way to improve is to learn and practice. You're just going to be mad when you get better tires and go back to the track and still run a terrible time.
Everyone that is good at the track has been new at some point. There are many things to learn as well. Are you going for a good ET, or a high MPH? Did you stage shallow or deep? Do you know the difference?
What was the 1/8 mile ET and trap? What about your 60ft? How many runs did you get?
Can you describe what you did to launch?
Please don't take this post as a diss. I'm glad you were willing to share your time, even if it wasn't what you wanted or expected. Trust me, I've done just as bad. My first pass in my Vette was a 13.9 @ 116 :yuck. By the end of the night, with practice, different tire pressures, launch rpms, etc, I got it to a 12.3 @ 116, but hell, that's still a terrible ET for drag radials!
I've only had one friend that had a 'talent' for drag racing. We used to go to the track and tell people that if they would let him drive, he would beat their time in their own car by half a second guaranteed. He NEVER came back with anything less than .5 faster. One guy had a Saleen and he was running 14.3s all day - my friend got in, never having driven the car before and ripped off a 12.2 on his first pass, lol.
For instance, I've seen drag cars run a slower mph when they don't get traction, but that's a car that runs say 130mph with traction and will run 125 without it.
In the high 90s traps, most cars will trap that with or without traction though. Using pure conjecture, you may have 1 or 2 mph more on a dead hook run, but that is optimistic just based on the poopy gear ratios of the automatic.
There's quite a few HP/1/4mile/et calculators out there and just using one, based on your weight and trap speed, it estimates 242HP, which is about what you made.
I surely doubt the track was like an ice rink- was everyone spinning that bad down the track? Surely not, or it would have been dangerous for the fast cars. Your tires were a bit over inflated, but they aren't drag radials or slicks, so you won't gain much by running less pressure.
It's interesting that you said it was your first time to the track and you did everything you could wrong, yet you only blame the tires. You had the !driver mod in full effect. There's more to drag racing than smashing the pedal when the light turns green. Own it and know you don't know what you're doing and the only way to improve is to learn and practice. You're just going to be mad when you get better tires and go back to the track and still run a terrible time.
Everyone that is good at the track has been new at some point. There are many things to learn as well. Are you going for a good ET, or a high MPH? Did you stage shallow or deep? Do you know the difference?
What was the 1/8 mile ET and trap? What about your 60ft? How many runs did you get?
Can you describe what you did to launch?
Please don't take this post as a diss. I'm glad you were willing to share your time, even if it wasn't what you wanted or expected. Trust me, I've done just as bad. My first pass in my Vette was a 13.9 @ 116 :yuck. By the end of the night, with practice, different tire pressures, launch rpms, etc, I got it to a 12.3 @ 116, but hell, that's still a terrible ET for drag radials!
I've only had one friend that had a 'talent' for drag racing. We used to go to the track and tell people that if they would let him drive, he would beat their time in their own car by half a second guaranteed. He NEVER came back with anything less than .5 faster. One guy had a Saleen and he was running 14.3s all day - my friend got in, never having driven the car before and ripped off a 12.2 on his first pass, lol.
Was hoping you'd take it to real track or autocross, but doesn't look like it.
You would be better off buying 6 speed trans, tires, and blocking rear springs so when you accelerate all the weight doesn't transfer off the driven wheels to the rear over gutting interior.
You would be better off buying 6 speed trans, tires, and blocking rear springs so when you accelerate all the weight doesn't transfer off the driven wheels to the rear over gutting interior.
Last edited by brian6speed; May 16, 2016 at 10:10 AM.
I won't quote Screamin Z's entire post, but it's true, spinning will often gain mph at the obvious expense of ET. And often, your quickest runs actually have a slightly lower trap speed. I had some horrible runs a few weeks ago, spinning through second, letting off, getting back on and all my traps were still 102.xx-104.xx. I bet on slicks, I wouldn't be able to hit 104 mph. Hooking hard and quick lessens forward momentum.
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