Got Something In The Mail Today!!!
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Got Something In The Mail Today!!!
Well, as the title says, I got my RV6 V3 PCD...They look very nice...I think it is gonna be a nice addition to my RV6 V3 J-Pipe and my mid muffler delete comptech cat back...We shall see..I will be putting them on next weekend...If any of you have any pointers for the install, please let me know...Thanks!!!!!
![](http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/bluetl04/untitled.png)
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
#7
Banned
no cels will be coming on . make sure you have the defoulers the right way and no cels will come on. had mines for about i think 1 month now no cels nothing just rasp and power
lols
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
no you will not throw any cels.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
no you will not throw any cels.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 04-29-2012 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
#9
Ive been getting the p0139/p0159 codes off and on for months. I drilled out the defouler hole a few times, but they come back randomly. My solution was getting a $20 code scanner/deleter from amazon and just deleting when they pop up randomly.
Enjoy the power bro! Your top end is going to be awesome.
Install is super easy. Don't worry. Putting headers on LT1/LS1 camaro/firebirds.. now that's migraine inducing
Enjoy the power bro! Your top end is going to be awesome.
no cels will be coming on . make sure you have the defoulers the right way and no cels will come on. had mines for about i think 1 month now no cels nothing just rasp and power
lols
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by Steven Bell; 04-29-2012 at 03:06 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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bluetl04 (04-28-2012)
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Lol..Yeah, my dog is only 7 months. He is part shu tzu and teddy bear..
no cels will be coming on . make sure you have the defoulers the right way and no cels will come on. had mines for about i think 1 month now no cels nothing just rasp and power
lols
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
have a friend that knows some mechanics. front is super easy.
start by removing the right fan facing the passenger side if you are in front of the car
lift the car up remove bolts from bottom of fan and on top. unbolt the heat shield of front cat. the front cat comes out from the top easiest.
the rear cat is a lot harder to remove. what me and my friends did was remove passenger tire. and we removed the axle also. which gave a ton of room for us to slide the rear cat out. you have to literally lean over your car to get the top 2 bolts on the cat then lift up the car to get the bottom 2 bolts remove heat shield was also a big help also. removal of the entire jpipe is not necessary just the bolts that hold the cats. then the cat just slides out from the passenger fender wall area
there is also a little bracket that holds somethign that is going to stop the rear cat from coming off. look in the diy section for pcds and you will see it
if your not resonated lols think about getting a resonator
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Yeah, something new they just started...lol..
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
Last edited by Steven Bell; 04-29-2012 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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bluetl04 (04-29-2012)
#13
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Join Date: May 2007
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Well, as the title says, I got my RV6 V3 PCD...They look very nice...I think it is gonna be a nice addition to my RV6 V3 J-Pipe and my mid muffler delete comptech cat back...We shall see..I will be putting them on next weekend...If any of you have any pointers for the install, please let me know...Thanks!!!!!
![](http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/bluetl04/untitled.png)
![](http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/bluetl04/untitled.png)
![Shocked](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shocked.gif)
You're a DOG!?!?!?
How do you reach the pedals? And where'd you learn to type?
![Big Eek](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/bigeek.gif)
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bluetl04 (04-29-2012)
#15
![Talking](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Well, as the title says, I got my RV6 V3 PCD...They look very nice...I think it is gonna be a nice addition to my RV6 V3 J-Pipe and my mid muffler delete comptech cat back...We shall see..I will be putting them on next weekend...If any of you have any pointers for the install, please let me know...Thanks!!!!!
![](http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/bluetl04/untitled.png)
![](http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/bluetl04/untitled.png)
#16
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Ive been getting the p0139/p0159 codes off and on for months. I drilled out the defouler hole a few times, but they come back randomly. My solution was getting a $20 code scanner/deleter from amazon and just deleting when they pop up randomly.
Enjoy the power bro! Your top end is going to be awesome.
Enjoy the power bro! Your top end is going to be awesome.
The way I screwed my o2 sensor into the defouler, it caused all of the wires to tangle and twist around itself ALOT... All I did was mess with it and tried un twisting some of it and voila, CEL turned off.
Code P0159 is the EXACT SAME THING but for the front cat. The o2 sensor plug located at the bottom of the PCD near the j-pipe.
I use a bluetooth obd2 scanner and the application called "Torque Pro" on my android phone to scan for codes and reset the faults so the CEL turns off.
Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)
What does that mean?
This involves the rear oxygen sensor on the driver's side. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.
Symptoms
You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.
Causes
A code P0139 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak
Possible Solutions
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the rear driver's side oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
What does that mean?
This involves the rear oxygen sensor on the driver's side. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.
Symptoms
You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.
Causes
A code P0139 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak
Possible Solutions
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the rear driver's side oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
#17
Team Owner
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You got a dog in the mail???? I didn't know Rich carried them-he's so cute!
Obviously just kidding.
Hey guys, please don't forget about the Multi-Quote button in the lower right hand corner of each post. The middle icon allows you to respond to more than one person in a single replay.
Obviously just kidding.
Hey guys, please don't forget about the Multi-Quote button in the lower right hand corner of each post. The middle icon allows you to respond to more than one person in a single replay.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 04-29-2012 at 03:09 PM.
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
$360...Not bad at all
You got a dog in the mail???? I didn't know Rich carried them-he's so cute!
Obviously just kidding.
Hey guys, please don't forget about the Multi-Quote button in the lower right hand corner of each post. The middle icon allows you to respond to more than one person in a single replay.
Obviously just kidding.
Hey guys, please don't forget about the Multi-Quote button in the lower right hand corner of each post. The middle icon allows you to respond to more than one person in a single replay.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 05-07-2012 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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bluetl04 (04-30-2012)
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
ok guys...So i installed the pcd's this past weekend...Let me tell you, what a pita...The front one was pretty straight foward but the rear one, holy shit...I ended up slicing my finger on the metal gasket..lol...I loosened all bolts and it just didnt wanna come.. I ended up taking off the 4 studs that the bolts go on. Once i did that, it came rite out..So after puting everything back together, i started it up and holy rasp like crazy...My personall opinion, it sounds like shit, no lie...But i guess now i have to get a resonator. The power is deff noticable...I did take some vids so i will post later...
#24
Three Wheelin'
ok guys...So i installed the pcd's this past weekend...Let me tell you, what a pita...The front one was pretty straight foward but the rear one, holy shit...I ended up slicing my finger on the metal gasket..lol...I loosened all bolts and it just didnt wanna come.. I ended up taking off the 4 studs that the bolts go on. Once i did that, it came rite out..So after puting everything back together, i started it up and holy rasp like crazy...My personall opinion, it sounds like shit, no lie...But i guess now i have to get a resonator. The power is deff noticable...I did take some vids so i will post later...
If you got rid of them while the rest of your exhaust was stock, you wouldn't notice any rasp, only increase in sound, and power of course. But it would be a very clean tone (i've tried it)
#28
Safety Car
It shouldn't trigger a check engine light because of the 90 angle fitting that the sensor plugs in to. This will actually trick the sensor into to thinking everything is normal.
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