Got both my cars dynod here are the results
06-13-2009, 06:13 PM
#1
Got both my cars dynod here are the results
So today and tomorrow is dyno days $50 for 3 pulls, Im not sure what kinda of dyno they have there, but im taking my TL-S and my Supercharged Roush 6-8 Psi (?) of boost non intercooled there tomorrow. What are your thoughts on my HP #s? The specs of the car i believe you can either find in my Album or youtube...
TL-S.... 280 HP
Roush... 370 HP Around are my guesses
The roush ran 13.5 @ a 110 on street tires spinning almost through 3rd gear. The TL-S never ran, so i dunno... Ill have HD vids of that sheet tomorrow for u guys when i get back.
What are your speculations?
TL-S.... 280 HP
Roush... 370 HP Around are my guesses
The roush ran 13.5 @ a 110 on street tires spinning almost through 3rd gear. The TL-S never ran, so i dunno... Ill have HD vids of that sheet tomorrow for u guys when i get back.
What are your speculations?
06-13-2009, 10:31 PM
#4
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Dyno's can be heartbreakers. If it is mustang dyno, you're probably be 250 whp for the tl-s and maybe 400 on the mustang if you've done some other stuff, but with just the supercharger I'd guess 350 tops.
I think a dyno jet dyno will increase both of those at least 5%.
Have fun and enjoy. . .
I think a dyno jet dyno will increase both of those at least 5%.
Have fun and enjoy. . .
06-14-2009, 01:35 PM
#7
Alright here it is The TL-S Did good, i think... The Roush has a fuel problem or something that needs to be checked into, so it wasnt running as it should, hence the shitty #s for the roush. But here are the dyno Sheets. I was told to take the HP and divide it by .8 to get the HP at the block so
TL-S 262.7 HP 236.1 Torque HP # block 328 HP
Roush 270.4 HP 347.4 Torque HP # block 361 HP
Dyno sheet for TL-S
Dyno sheet for the Roush
Ill get videos up here in a little bit.
TL-S 262.7 HP 236.1 Torque HP # block 328 HP
Roush 270.4 HP 347.4 Torque HP # block 361 HP
Dyno sheet for TL-S
Dyno sheet for the Roush
Ill get videos up here in a little bit.
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06-15-2009, 10:45 PM
#12
Here is the Video on the Roush. Damn it sounds so awesome, speakers hardly do justice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZigaiBcTgEc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZigaiBcTgEc
08-29-2010, 04:42 PM
#16
Team Owner
Very nice. Both of your cars sound amazing, especially the Mustang. TL is perfect, still classy sounding but aggressive too.
What did the AF look like on the Mustang? I'm sure a shot of methanol especially with the non intercooled blower would be good for 50+hp.
What did the AF look like on the Mustang? I'm sure a shot of methanol especially with the non intercooled blower would be good for 50+hp.
08-29-2010, 09:04 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
great videos...nice numbers from the TL-S
08-29-2010, 10:47 PM
#20
Pro
I certainly think it was worth it but unless your get the underdriven pulley its not gonna show any gains on the dyno and even they it would be like 3whp. The pulley made my car feel lighter and more responsive.
09-14-2010, 06:10 PM
#22
Banned
Yeah that's about right. I recently did some dyno runs in my TL and hit around 270 max power. The tech said my A/F ratio was in the safe range...so safe in fact that I'm actually losing power. Currently I'm in the process of getting a good programmer to gain power and keep myself in the safe range.
01-31-2012, 12:47 PM
#24
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^amazon, eBay, or even google local dealers in your area.
i got lucky and there is a shop 10 mins from my house. just went there yesterday and picked up 3 more qts.
i got lucky and there is a shop 10 mins from my house. just went there yesterday and picked up 3 more qts.
01-31-2012, 12:51 PM
#25
not sure on the Redline; but fyi, RA is horrid on brakes. If it were me, I'd have fresh pads, rotors, and most importantly, Motul fluid in for the track day. On our STI we burned a full set of pads and had surface cracks on both front rotors after a weekend there with NASA. great track, but hard on cars.
01-31-2012, 02:46 PM
#26
This is a nice way of saying the motor can't breath. You can see torque just falls off from 3500 to redline. Typical of superchargers and passenger V8's. Either the intake charge is heating up a bunch or the cylinder heads just can't maintain flow.
As for the TL-S, it's a pretty nice graph. torque is VERY flat illustrating how Honda is extremely good at tuning motors. Breaths fine in the low and mid-range, and then VTEC keeps it breathing in high rpm (and then some). Can you imagine what insanity it would be if Honda sold a V8? Imagine if you weren't loosing 50lb/ft between peak torque and peak horsepower. That would be awesome. Even the IS-F's V8 drops 75lb/ft from peak torque to peak horse. And torque is DIRECTLY related to acceleration.
My only gripe is that Honda obviously places the VTEC crossover too high on it's cars just so you can feel that burst of torque when the cam changes over (as seen in the graph). Why the hell they put it AT peak-torque is beyond me though. If They lowered the crossover to the point where the two torque curves intersect, you would have more area under the curve and a more usable powerband. But Honda does this on purpose because it makes potential buyers actually feel the difference instead of just hearing it (remember they are new-car salesmen 1st and foremost). If the crossover was smooth, then people might think VTEC does nothing at all and buy something else.
Sorry....I'm rambling.
As for the TL-S, it's a pretty nice graph. torque is VERY flat illustrating how Honda is extremely good at tuning motors. Breaths fine in the low and mid-range, and then VTEC keeps it breathing in high rpm (and then some). Can you imagine what insanity it would be if Honda sold a V8? Imagine if you weren't loosing 50lb/ft between peak torque and peak horsepower. That would be awesome. Even the IS-F's V8 drops 75lb/ft from peak torque to peak horse. And torque is DIRECTLY related to acceleration.
My only gripe is that Honda obviously places the VTEC crossover too high on it's cars just so you can feel that burst of torque when the cam changes over (as seen in the graph). Why the hell they put it AT peak-torque is beyond me though. If They lowered the crossover to the point where the two torque curves intersect, you would have more area under the curve and a more usable powerband. But Honda does this on purpose because it makes potential buyers actually feel the difference instead of just hearing it (remember they are new-car salesmen 1st and foremost). If the crossover was smooth, then people might think VTEC does nothing at all and buy something else.
Sorry....I'm rambling.
Last edited by 94eg!; 01-31-2012 at 02:59 PM.
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02-03-2012, 03:47 PM
#31
not sure on the Redline; but fyi, RA is horrid on brakes. If it were me, I'd have fresh pads, rotors, and most importantly, Motul fluid in for the track day. On our STI we burned a full set of pads and had surface cracks on both front rotors after a weekend there with NASA. great track, but hard on cars.
I wouldnt mind upgrading my Brake fluid, i heard of the Motul fluid before, but what would be a good option for me to run? I never swapped out the brake fluid because I heard you have to completely get all the old brake fluid out first. Is there a good Motul fluid to use that can accept some leftover brake fluid, without complications? I tried doing a search to find out a DIY to completely flush the brake fluid but i couldn't find anything. can someone help? I do have the Brembos and i have cross drilled and slotted rotors, i hope i don't crack rotors.
02-03-2012, 03:53 PM
#32
No worries about getting all the fluid out first. Just bleed it till you see clean fresh new fluid come out of each caliper.
If your not hitting the track, then regular Honda DOT3 lasts a super long time without absorbing too much moisture (3 years). If your going to the track look into the Motul or ATE Type200 (or ATE Super Blue if you want a blue reservoir). Race fluid tends to absorb water a bit quicker and should be changed more often (each track day or once a year).
If your not hitting the track, then regular Honda DOT3 lasts a super long time without absorbing too much moisture (3 years). If your going to the track look into the Motul or ATE Type200 (or ATE Super Blue if you want a blue reservoir). Race fluid tends to absorb water a bit quicker and should be changed more often (each track day or once a year).
Last edited by 94eg!; 02-03-2012 at 03:55 PM.
02-03-2012, 04:17 PM
#33
No worries about getting all the fluid out first. Just bleed it till you see clean fresh new fluid come out of each caliper.
If your not hitting the track, then regular Honda DOT3 lasts a super long time without absorbing too much moisture (3 years). If your going to the track look into the Motul or ATE Type200 (or ATE Super Blue if you want a blue reservoir). Race fluid tends to absorb water a bit quicker and should be changed more often (each track day or once a year).
If your not hitting the track, then regular Honda DOT3 lasts a super long time without absorbing too much moisture (3 years). If your going to the track look into the Motul or ATE Type200 (or ATE Super Blue if you want a blue reservoir). Race fluid tends to absorb water a bit quicker and should be changed more often (each track day or once a year).
I wouldn't fret much about running a more race oriented brake fluid on the street. Done it for years without a single issue.
OP, you have D/S rotors, but what pads? Are you considering changing them before the track day?
02-03-2012, 04:39 PM
#34
All good info. The ATE super blue is nice because it's blue. lol It's super easy to see when the new fluid is coming out the bleeder.
I wouldn't fret much about running a more race oriented brake fluid on the street. Done it for years without a single issue.
OP, you have D/S rotors, but what pads? Are you considering changing them before the track day?
I wouldn't fret much about running a more race oriented brake fluid on the street. Done it for years without a single issue.
OP, you have D/S rotors, but what pads? Are you considering changing them before the track day?
10-13-2011 I finally did a all around brake pad change also on the type s (last night), and it was well needed for the first time at 47k miles . First off i love the Brembo pads, the car stopped awesome. i bought the exact same pads Duralast CMAX gold Pads for 60 bucks also. I took my car for a short test drive last night, and first impression these brakes suck, the stopping is nothing compared to the stock brembo pads. this morning i drove to work (2 miles) and it seemed a lot better. I came on here to do a search to see what other people suggested for pads, ill give these a little more time to see how i like them, but im glad it feels better than it did last night.
2/3/2012 Update I'm super displeased with my pads that I'm already switching back and ordering factory/stock Brembo pads again. I will only use these Duralast CMAX gold pads in winter because there is minimal dusting. The breaking with these pads do not compare to the Brembos i would not recommend to anyone who wants braking that is comparable to the factory Brembos, its not even on the same scale. I was Super happy and the Brembos gave me the best braking i have ever experienced in a car, i just didnt want to spend the $150 to replace them, but now in the end i just wasted money on the cmax golds, and they also squeal everytime when the car first stops, its embarrassing.
As far as the fluid goes, can someone help me point in the right direction as far as fluid that i wouldn't need to change every year or one that would absorb so much moisture, i know the Honda dot 3 was mentioned, but is there something that is a little better that is comparable?
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