I said EEPROM. Do you know what that means? no.. if you did you would know it means you can program and erase, and electrically program and erase the PROM. So that is flash. your welcome.. I just educated you all again

 

Only one way to settle it. Do a dyno run, buy the chip, install it, do another dyno run, post both dyno sheets here. OP I vote that you do it since you started the thread.

 

I wouldn't trust something like this enough to even try it on my car...

 

Go for it.
If it doesn't work as advertised, demand a refund

Life's good these days.

 

Hence why I voted the OP to give it a whirl....too many red flags for me to even consider this being legit.

 

Edit: Not worth it.

 

I wouldn't test it if they paid me.

 

Aside from all this, you know whats even more sad?

The fact that there's companies out there marketing such things, goes to show that there's actually people out there still in this day and age that think this is possible.


Its true that the TL ECU can be reflashed....but so what?
You change some parameters...Add fuel, more aggressive ignition timing, but then what? You can only add so much timing, before it blows up, and additional fuel without the introduction of additional air is only going to act as combustion chamber cooler for your overly aggressive timing. So there goes your MPG "increase" ....Do I have to mention emissions with the added richness?

Now lets say that you reflash for more fuel and timing.....how are you going to introduce more air? Because the first 2 without the last one are going to be pretty useless.
You cant.

I caught myself before getting too deep into this....but look

....my suggestion for anyone who types " Acura TL Performance Chips" on google.... type "how 4-stroke engines work"

 

I saw the title, then the number of replies, then the OP and figured you would be arguing that this thing works. Most of the Domestic cars of the '80s had PROMs. I know because I did tons of R&D for some of the popular companies of the mid '90. I used to run a thing called a prom-pak which held 5 PROMs, a street, a few race ones for race gas, some for very high boost, some for high timing, and one super low timing nitrous chip. I could turn a key and flip between each chip at the strip and note the changes.

Let's clarify, this is not a PROM or even a "chip". It's a simple resistor for the IAT sensor circuit to trick the ECU into thinking the charge air is colder than it is. A resistor in a temp sensor is going to make it run richer initially which the 02 sensor is going to take care of pretty quickly. That's fine, whatever, the net effect is zero, other than your ST fuel trims being off. However, it's going to add timing. If you're lucky your knock sensor will take care of the problem. If not, it's going to be more likely to ping. Adding timing without knock is good for a few lbs of torque. The TL from the factory is on the verge of knock bone stock so adding a "chip" will do nothing. You could always try it with meth injection or race gas, you might get a few lbs of torque.

 

Just because I'm bored and this thread is pretty much useless, might as well go into more detail from the "old days". I've installed race chips on my other car that added a little over 180hp and roughly 250-280lbs of torque. Of course, this required race gas. They were sort of an all out chip. They made the injectors go to 100% DC above 80% throttle and you adjusted the AF ratio with the boost lol. They also added 12 degrees of timing advance which required a minimum of 116 octane. Would you ever get more than a few lbs or torque in a NA TL, never.

On to something more modern, my friend bought a 335 and within 24hrs had it "chipped" which was a flash. 100hp, 100lbs of torque from a $600 flash. But again, it's turbocharged and boost is where the gains come from, not minute timing and AF ratio changes.

Anything legit for a modern car is going to start around $600 and that's not for a stand alone.

 

This is what I tried to tell him but I need to get a degree before he'll listen to me .

 

I know right? $1.10 a month? I could swing that.

You didn't. Someone was making fun of the product and said it looked like ram. Although they probably specifically meant a SODIMM.

You're an idiot. Don't come onto a forum and flame people. Trust me, you're lucky people have been same tame with their responses. This topic doesn't truly even merit our time.

Like we all said at the get go, this won't work. Read IHC's responses. I'm sure you can get some education out of them.

Lol.

 

I just should have just been rough from the start with my responses...

 

 

This is what Chad does. Asks a question, gets a different reply than what he wants. Then he argues as if he's an expert and as he's losing the discussion he starts talking about degrees. Do a search on his posts, it happens every time. I figure there's a 50% chance he's a troll.

 

 

Back on Topic or the thread will get closed.

 

the chip just connects to the intake air temperature sensor. the only thing this kind of device can do is to richen up the fuel mixture, it cannot change the ignition timing, nor can changing the mixture increase the power anywhere near the amount that they claim. that would be more than a 50% power increase, which is virtually impossible for a device which just richens the fuel mixture.

the instructions say that it only connects with 2 wires, but the photo on their site shows a real chip that has a 14 pin connector on one side (and probably has 14 more pins on the other side). but a 14 or 28 pin chip does not connect to two wires, it connects to 14 or 28 wires. so this is a scam, period.

this is a cheap device that costs the manufacturer a few bucks (if that much) to produce. just think, since they make at least $65 profit on each unit, if 8 out of every ten people who buy them return the products for a refund, they will still make $130 combined profit on the two units which are not returned, even after refunding the price of 8 out of ten. this is how they can offer such a good guarantee. it is a proven fact that many people will not bother to return an item that they buy, even if it doesn't work. and THAT is how these people make their money. they know it doesn't work, and they also know that extravagant claims and outright lies will pull buyers in anyway.

 

I don't know why it's not closed already. There are so many of these bogus chip threads on here that end up this way and end up being closed, it should be noted and shut down right away. Obviously the OP just wants to debate a subject that has already been beaten to death and back several times.

 

^Agreed. I just didn't want to be the one to say it.

 

Like everyone said don't buy it. Unless you want too and prove us wrong. Save the money and put it towards a proven mod j-pipe exhaust ect...

BTW

 

Suits me.