ECU upgrades
11-28-2011, 08:07 PM
#2
its not cheap at all.
we recently had a break through.
there wasnt any chip or ecu available until now.
http://ww.tl.acurazine.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=806456
we recently had a break through.
there wasnt any chip or ecu available until now.
http://ww.tl.acurazine.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=806456
11-28-2011, 10:22 PM
#5
Yup that's what everyone says. I wished I had the money to dish out for one.
I just wanted to let the OP know so he gets an idea of how much he'll have to spend.
Some people assume ECU upgrades are cheap ($300-500) because that's how much other cars usually cost, but that's not the case for our TL.
I just wanted to let the OP know so he gets an idea of how much he'll have to spend.
Some people assume ECU upgrades are cheap ($300-500) because that's how much other cars usually cost, but that's not the case for our TL.
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11-29-2011, 07:49 AM
#9
its actually $13xx.00
also, you have to take your car to get it dyno tuned....which is a good 300-500 dollars.
I believe fully bolted on N/A TL's are gaining any where from 15-30hp. depending on your mods and the tune.
also, you have to take your car to get it dyno tuned....which is a good 300-500 dollars.
I believe fully bolted on N/A TL's are gaining any where from 15-30hp. depending on your mods and the tune.
Last edited by justnspace; 11-29-2011 at 07:51 AM.
11-29-2011, 08:03 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
It doesn't add power. It adusts. It tunes. Helps maintain your engine safer. Therefor, you add power from your parts to where your AFR, timing, fuel, etc, as they are added in this ECU. I'm pretty sure you'll be getting better gas mileage after all your bolt-ons.
On some cars, an intake will throw off one's afr for instance.
But with people saying that the stock intake on the TL is already good as it is... try doing a custom CAI and run the ECU.. i bet there are gains to be made.
On some cars, an intake will throw off one's afr for instance.
But with people saying that the stock intake on the TL is already good as it is... try doing a custom CAI and run the ECU.. i bet there are gains to be made.
12-01-2011, 06:10 PM
#13
king twin,you have a lot to learn my friend.take time and read through the threads.. no such thing. hondata did a little something but went know where. basically its AEM - FIC or the JNR ecu..
12-01-2011, 07:26 PM
#14
Before worrying about upgrading your ECU, I suggest you to fully get all bolt-ons first than get the ECU so you can gain even more HP.
Benefits of a ECU on a completely stock TL is little compared to a fully bolted TL.
Sure you'll gain a little something, but for the price of $1300 for the ECU you're better off buying (Click the links in BLUE)
J-Pipe w/ built-in 3rd cat delete = $450
HFC or PCD = $400-$600 (PCD are cheaper, HFC more expensive but little to no rasp/drone)
That right there is about $800-$1000 depending whether you went with PCD or HFC... with the $300-600 you have left you can get
UR Lightweight Pulley (Stock diameter or under drive) - $200
Now that's $1000-$1200... You'll have maybe $100-$300 left over... for shits and giggles I suppose you can spend the rest on a
Cold Air Intake - $100-$250 (varies by brand. Please don't ask "Is _____ brand cold air intake better than _____ brand?" The answer is, THEY ARE ALL THE SAME. They all do the same job, the only reason the price is different is because of the 'Name-brand' sticker on the tube...) "DC Sports" is the least expensive Cold Air Intake and only costs about $150. I would recommend this one. If you google around, you may be able to find it even cheaper for about $125.
All that add up to about the same price as the JNR Ecu and I would assume you would gain about +30HP (ASSUMPTION, COULD BE MORE, COULD BE LESS).
I doubt a JNR ECU on a completely stock TL would provide that much gains in HP.... Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Once you get fully bolted-on and add the ECU you'll free even more HP ontop of what you gained from the bolt-ons
Benefits of a ECU on a completely stock TL is little compared to a fully bolted TL.
Sure you'll gain a little something, but for the price of $1300 for the ECU you're better off buying (Click the links in BLUE)
J-Pipe w/ built-in 3rd cat delete = $450
HFC or PCD = $400-$600 (PCD are cheaper, HFC more expensive but little to no rasp/drone)
That right there is about $800-$1000 depending whether you went with PCD or HFC... with the $300-600 you have left you can get
UR Lightweight Pulley (Stock diameter or under drive) - $200
Now that's $1000-$1200... You'll have maybe $100-$300 left over... for shits and giggles I suppose you can spend the rest on a
Cold Air Intake - $100-$250 (varies by brand. Please don't ask "Is _____ brand cold air intake better than _____ brand?" The answer is, THEY ARE ALL THE SAME. They all do the same job, the only reason the price is different is because of the 'Name-brand' sticker on the tube...) "DC Sports" is the least expensive Cold Air Intake and only costs about $150. I would recommend this one. If you google around, you may be able to find it even cheaper for about $125.
All that add up to about the same price as the JNR Ecu and I would assume you would gain about +30HP (ASSUMPTION, COULD BE MORE, COULD BE LESS).
I doubt a JNR ECU on a completely stock TL would provide that much gains in HP.... Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Once you get fully bolted-on and add the ECU you'll free even more HP ontop of what you gained from the bolt-ons
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 12-01-2011 at 07:35 PM.
12-02-2011, 08:56 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
^ To justify your statement, I would say get the JNR Ecu first then have your bolt-ons tuned. So every part you install gets tuned on the spot. Not just for people with bolt-ons but if a person decides to go turbo, they already have the ecu in their checklist.
Also, this part would be to each their own.
Even if you are stock, I would want the "rev-hang" gone. Which would be a total plus on our cars that has DBW.
In building cars for 10 years, ECU always would be my first priority. Still, the car in stock form with an ecu would improve over stock form. The gas mileage would increase and the drivability would be alot better. Alot smoother. Vtec engagment should be lower.
But what do I know about V6, this will be a great start working on these motor than inline 4's.
Also, this part would be to each their own.
Even if you are stock, I would want the "rev-hang" gone. Which would be a total plus on our cars that has DBW.
In building cars for 10 years, ECU always would be my first priority. Still, the car in stock form with an ecu would improve over stock form. The gas mileage would increase and the drivability would be alot better. Alot smoother. Vtec engagment should be lower.
But what do I know about V6, this will be a great start working on these motor than inline 4's.
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