From DOT 3 to 5.1
From DOT 3 to 5.1
I'm wondering how to be completely sure to have only 5.1 in my lines after flushing my old dot 3, 'cause I think that without the Honda computer I can't have the ABS pump to run since it will know that 3 out of 4 wheels don't turns.
I do have a vacuum/pressure pump, so my though was to poor the 5.1 from the caliper to the brake reservoir!!!!!!
I need your help PLZ!!!!!
I do have a vacuum/pressure pump, so my though was to poor the 5.1 from the caliper to the brake reservoir!!!!!!
I need your help PLZ!!!!!
If the old fluid was still new looking and not old and dark it can be tough to see the difference so you just need to do enough that you're satisfied that the new stuff is in there completely. Doing it from the caliper to the reservoir would kinda work but you still wouldn't know that the master cylinder itself was completely full with the new fluid, being it's not fun/recommended to drain the entire master cylinder and then re-bleeding the new stuff in cuz there's a lot more bleeding involved. So I would just do it the old fashioned way and just keep bleeding in the new fluid until you're convinced the old stuff is out. Plus the brembo's never fully bleed the first time, so you'll want to come back and do it 1 or 2 more times.
My trick is switching between Motul and the ATE blue stuff. The color dye in it makes it stupid easy to see when the old stuff is out.
My trick is switching between Motul and the ATE blue stuff. The color dye in it makes it stupid easy to see when the old stuff is out.
For the DIY-er it's been recommened that after the intial flush and bleed to go out and find a nice quiet, lonely place where you can engage a few ABS inducing stops to "purge" the ABS channels. Then come back and do a final flush and re-bleed.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
For the DIY-er it's been recommened that after the intial flush and bleed to go out and find a nice quiet, lonely place where you can engage a few ABS inducing stops to "purge" the ABS channels. Then come back and do a final flush and re-bleed.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
For the DIY-er it's been recommened that after the intial flush and bleed to go out and find a nice quiet, lonely place where you can engage a few ABS inducing stops to "purge" the ABS channels. Then come back and do a final flush and re-bleed.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
Can't wait for it to be done, first time lapping with my ride on Suday!!!!!!!!!
Mecaglisse race track, it's north of montreal in Canada. It's a small 2.2 km track but with very sharp turns to practice my skills, 'cause I may go to Calabogie at the end of summer!!!!!!
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For the DIY-er it's been recommened that after the intial flush and bleed to go out and find a nice quiet, lonely place where you can engage a few ABS inducing stops to "purge" the ABS channels. Then come back and do a final flush and re-bleed.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
I don't know enough to say if that is or isn't effective, but it was posted by 01TL4TL who generally knows his brakes.
To the OP, the 5.1 is a nice thin fluid that seems to slightly enhance ABS operation but if you're going to be tracking it on stock sized Brembos at full weight and on a decent tire you might want something with a higher boiling point. These cars put a ton of heat into the front brakes especially after several laps and the rear brakes become almost useless. Even my 13" fronts get to 900F+ in my full weight TL on the NT05s. IMO, 13" is barely adequate for a nose heavy car with SOLID rear disks that give up quickly. You're putting practically every BTU through the fronts instead of splitting the heat between the front and rear. Didn't mean to rant lol.
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