screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it really matters which route you go in for practical matters. If this were a race motor, money no object, you could tailor it to your hearts desire, but I'd think you would focus on a. feasibility and b .cost.

If you have the ability to tig weld and want to invest the time and effort into a setup like Utah's, then definitely go for it. I agree with Matt and I do like the cast piece off the head as well, which is what ultimately led me to purchase a set of PCDs. Now, I will use the prank racing flanges that connect to the PCDs, create a y pipe that will route to where the turbo will sit, and we're off to the races so to speak, lol.

All this discussion may just prompt me to start my build sooner rather than later. The wife will have to wait for more mods to her truck, lol. Now my concern would be sharing pics of my terrible welding skills, lol.

6spd-GERCO

Isn't that what header wrap is for? lol

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Glad I got your mind tinkering again.

I hate cars

I've done both, separately and together and there's no comparison. Wrap will keep the heat in much, much better and lower underhood temps significantly. I coated my mild steel headers so they didn't rust but that was all the use I had. Back in the old days I did headers, turbo, and downpipe. It looked good but served no functional purpose.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the input of warp vs ceramic coating

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I hate to say this but I agree with my BFF IHC's on this one.

There's very little difference in regards to thermal management between coatings and wraps. I've done both to nearly all hot side components on my turbo setup. First they were all wrapped. Then the wrap came off for ceramic coatings. Then rewrapped again. I honestly believe the wrap does a better job at retaining heat than coating does which is why I wrapped them again after having them coated. Above this, heat shield in certain high temperature areas was the second best thing I did. Especially around large/solid components such as the turbo itself. That thing was like a miniature sun after runs, lol.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

LOL your comment reminds me of a buddy's old Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. When we were stupid kids we all used to blister the highways at 130+ all the time. After doing it in his car, we pulled off the side of the road and even in the pitch black dark of night, you could see the turbo glowing red hot - every single part was visible. Tiny turbo FTW!

I hate cars

We were coming back from a party in my friends GN back when we were about 18 and the cigarette lighter was broken. With him fiending for a cigarette I powerbraked it until the turbo glowed. That wouldn't light the cigarette so we began doing donuts at full throttle in 3rd gear with the speedo buried. The turbo still wouldn't light it even though it looked like it was transparent but the headers did.

When mine is set for 30psi on race gas, I can make a low 10sec pass, pick up the time slip, drive it easy back in line and the turbo would still be glowing pretty bright. The big turbos definitely glow for longer.

Once when I had my timing backed all the way off during some tuning to get the turbo to spool quicker, my headers were glowing at idle. At 3,000rpm and only 10psi I was sure the headers were going to melt to the ground. That's when I began learning that EGTs are safer on race gas with high boost but proper (more advanced) timing than pump gas, moderate boost, and low timing.

Another one of my quick spool experiments had blue flame continuously coming out of both exhaust pipes on deceleration. This was the only time everything was glowing from the headers to halfway to the rear of the car. I noticed it once after I pulled over after an impromptu run with no street lights and saw the ground glowing under the car. I'm glad the car had Inconel exhaust valves because I abused the whole exhaust system badly back in the day.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Hahaha, yup. Been there and done that!

It probably didn't help my situation that I was running some very crazy ignition maps on my overrun either. Friends were telling me I'd get some pretty crazy blue flames out the back between shifts. And mind you I run an auto which requires massive retard to see any fire at those shift speeds. Love it...

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Just some tease from this new guy on v6p.
single





Twins

Grand_hustle17

Ive pondered doing a borg warner setup. If i do infact try this build i want mines no more than $3000 total. Anything more and i lost all interest.

Same as op 400whp tops is what i want

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

3K OTD is hard when using brand name parts. If you could use an ebay turbo or even an older Holset - you could easily do it. Dropping 800 to a grand on the turbo really takes a chunk out fo the budget.

I need to look at the compressor maps on something like a holset HX35 - that might work.

Grand_hustle17

I was browsing ebay. Now what was the issue with a t3 gt35 again?.. Seen some one ebay for $270

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

thisaznboi88,
Those turbo setup up's look clean ,even the twin set up.
I can't stand how some guys j's look like a bunch of knots of piping.
May work good but looks like deuce compared to those pics.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

might leak? turbines might be unbalance. From the way I see it you can get it for 270 and get it rebuilt for 250 + shipping. That puts your around 550 range. For 250 more you can get a legit turbo. But that's my way of looking at it.

Also a lot of people when switching from ebay turbo to a brand name turbo notice better spool, response, and make more power at the same PSI.



@richardparker

I agree they look pretty clean. This guy popped out of no where yesterday on v6p and has some boss looking build, but on a crappy j30a1 motor.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, those guys are all dumb.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

here is new borg warner turbo for 600. its a little on the larger size.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151634004975?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I hate cars

You would be miserable with that thing. It would be more at home on a larger engine or a diesel.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Looking at a compressor map for that turbo, it looks like it would be right where you want it to be for a J32, depending on your HP goal - for 400whp, you'd just be getting into PRs that would be where it likes.

EDIT - lol, IHC, you posted right before me. Could you elaborate why that would be so bad? Looking at a compressor map for it, it looks to be right in the middle of the efficiency island with a 1.9PR and 45lb/min. Is it the .88 A/R that makes it too big?

It looks like a 75lb/min turbo which seems about right.

I hate cars

Yep. Compressor is fine. The turbine not so much.

There was a time when people would try a bigger AR to gain a little more from their combo without spending too much. The general consensus is the bigger ARs work with bigger engines to keep back pressure under control. There are some instances of very high boost >30psi setups that benefit from the bigger nozzle but for the most part .63 works great for anything in the 3l range.

I tried one of PTE's special turbine castings that supposedly gave the top end power of a .82 and the spool of a .63. That was not the case by a mile. I ended up putting a turbine blade through that cast iron housing and putting a dent in the heat shield . Up until then I did not know that could happen but I was glad it did.

There are ways to make just about any turbo spool near instant using just engine management with no additional hardware or cost but it depends on how much whatever management you're using will let you do. It's something I do for people for free but I don't share how I do it. It takes a good day and it has to be done on the street and not the dyno. You still can't get too crazy with the turbo you're using but it's much more forgiving.

I hate cars

Also, the compressor wheel reminds me of the variety that are most efficient in the 30+psi range at a given flow. I might be wrong, just going by looks. The description says 68/88 which is probably a divided housing with two different ARs which screams diesel turbo. I haven't had a chance to look at it or the map so I'm not entirely sure.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That makes sense. I just googled an S363 compressor map and they are very efficient into the 3+ PR area which looks very diesel to me.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

for my j30 it might be too big because I want to run the compressor ratio of 1400-1440.

For J32 and J35 guys it might be perfect.

S363 compressor map just incase you want to view it.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Just for comparison, lsthatch over on j32a was running an S366 which flows over 82lb/min on a stock J32A2

It made 707 whp @ 20psi on 110

I hate cars

I fully agree that you can go significantly larger and it will eventually spool and it will make a ton of power. If it were a track car I would actually recommend something larger.

The problem is, it looks like his wastegate is not even needed until 6k. If you want a stockish powerband and feel but with much more power, that's one way to do it. But why not enjoy a much better, flatter powerband that's going to make the car feel lighter and acceleration more effortless. It will be easier to launch and easier to go fast without perfect shifting

For a street setup, full boost should be in by 3-3.5k and I shoot for 2,800rpm on my daily driver GN (GT6576). It made almost 630lbs of torque at 2,800rpm and over 500hp from 2,800 to 6,200rpm which is the limit of the stock bottom end in rpm, peaking at 602rwhp at 6,000rpm. It's a wide flat powerband where it doesn't matter if I get caught in between gears, it can muscle through tall years at low rpm.

I've never mentioned this except to two members but the last run the car had was an 800+ rwhp Supra that came down from LA. We had some pretty significant money on it. I was at a 200hp deficit but luckily my car is lighter by a little bit. I beat him twice in a row because while he was spooling I was gone. He honored the bet but wanted to go from a roll to see what would happen. It's not what most people would think. From 60mph we both had traction issues but I still pulled him once we were full throttle and hooked to 120mph. He began catching me after 120mph which is a weird feeling but the race was over. My car made more power than him until he was near redline so even from a roll my car held him off for quite a while. Once he was in the taller years where he was spending more time near redline he began reeling me in.

The turbo gives you the chance to have more torque at a lower rpm than a 427 plus pull hard to redline without falling off. You can have your cake and eat it too if you put a lot of thought into the turbo. For the first time, the heads and cams don't determine where the torque peak is, the turbo does.

It's totally up to the owner as to what he wants but from screwing up more than most people ever will, my preference is to give up a few hp (it won't hook anyway) for a big fat powerband that a big block would be envious of. I'm just putting the info out there, he may choose the big turbo option. Either way I guess they're not hard to swap out if he's not happy with either option.

I have to admit, it's pretty damn cool to see a stock J making 700hp at only 20psi. The top end will no doubt support 1,000hp.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

well looks like my plan are on hold. Couldn't finance a house. So no garage to build the turbo kit. ;(

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Are you buying in CA or VA? I know everyone's situation is different, but PM me if you want to try a different mortgage broker. My broker is awesome and has helped myself and 2 of my friends when others weren't competitive or able to do anything for us.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Trying to buy in W.Va. My debt to income ratio way too high. I owe 180k in student loans and just getting paid intern rate. lol Parents couldn't get the loan for me since they own 3 houses that aren't paid off. So pretty shitty situation. Just ended up renting a single apt since I have drama with my roommates.

FamilyGuy

Rent a bigger place and interview your own roommates...might help to eliminate the drama since you're the one screening the roommates, and you can continue to save on rent.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Wife moving in also so no roommates . I want to bang everywhere :p

Already sign the least for the apartment. It's fully furnished. Will be selling a ton of stuff in a few weeks. Snow tires and rims, valve covers, washer just to name a few

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

180k

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Pharmacy student should have been an engineer . Would already be making money.

I hate cars

I need help. 😩. 6 figure income, no kids, no debt literally, but no credit history. I rent my house but due to no credit history I'm unable to buy a house even with 60k+ down. I was told I would be better off with bad credit than no credit. Nobody will even look at me.

I'm looking at having to get a prepaid credit card to begin building credit as if I were 18 yrs old. Actually I just got offered a $200 card with a $75 startup fee but I might see if I can actually get it. Although I would probably be spending out of control if I didn't have to actually have the money to buy something. That might be dangerous.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

problem might be because you live in CA and all the house there are $$$$$. wIth 60k you can get a pretty decent house here in WV

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Just some insight for my BFF, I had no credit history when I decided on wanting to buy a sport bike years back and was told by a close friend to get a gas card from Shell and a prepaid credit card to establish credit quick. No exaggeration, within one year, my credit was high enough (740ish) to buy the bike with zero down and a $500 promissory note within 3 months.

I hate cars

That would be awesome to get a house that cheap. I had up to 100k to put down on a 260k house at one time and it was a no go. I thought based on income, stable employment with the same company for a long time, and the amount down it was a sure deal. I asked for the heck of it if I could get financed on $180k with $100k down and they said it was very unlikely. $180k gets surprisingly little around here unfortunately. The neighborhood I'm looking at is still offering new houses for $260-$320k. I was surprised at all of the riff raff in the neighborhood and then realized the same houses were going for $180k or less not that long ago.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^ man, i spent some time looking at houses down here in san diego recently and if i don't want a big time fixer upper, i'm looking at 450k min. it's so stupid down here. i'm an engineer doing well and i can't afford a house down here. to the pharmacy student...hang in there, that debt will go fast once you get out and if you are focused! engineers don't make as much money relative to what people think we make

i agree with the others, get a gas card that will help a lot it's a certain type of credit. i started with capital one card for me and my wife's credit cards, which is pretty friendly to people with little or no credit.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I was taught at an early age that credit is what get you ahead financially in life, unless your parents have a few million in the bank. Better start early and buy stuff and pay it off. I used to buy hot cheetos in high school with my CC. Even with 180k debt over my head my credit is around 757. My parents are both over 800. So I still have a little bit to go before I get to excellent, but being at very good isn't bad either.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

You must have only looked into it after the mortgage meltdown. Buying a house was literally the easiest thing to do, especially in California. No-doc loans were done every single day. I had friends with zero documented income and no credit history buy houses left and right.

Sure, after 2009 it became a bit more difficult, but when you say you had no credit history - did you pay cash for your TL, or have the loan in someone else's name? To say you had no credit history at all is like you were in WitSec or something.

I looked at CA real estate in general a while back and thought Bakersfield (still there?) was still reasonably affordable. Walnut Creek and San Francisco were absurd.

If you're really serious, PM me and I'll give you my broker's name. Some of the things he can do with DTI are pretty crazy. Only thing he can't do is help me on refinancing my first house since it's not a principal residence. The banking industry is so absurd - if I could refi it to current rates, I would be net positve cash flow from rental income by about $200 per month instead of negative $350, but no new company wants to take the loan since it isn't a primary, and my current bank doesn't want to refi it because they have it at a higher rate already, so why should they?

The mortgage industry is a shell game and it's all about known where the pea is.

Anywho, back to turbos... - IHC - if you were to use twins - what size would you go with? GT28s seem too small, and GT30s maybe too big, no?

flexer

The GT28rs which is the GT28/60, also known as the "disco potato" would be an excellent size for twin turbo's. Would support between 700-800 wheel with great spool.