I'll get straight to the point. I have no idea what the following terms do, except that they help regulate performance. I don't want to ask to sound like a stupid bastard, but more so that I know what I'm buying does. I don't want to buy these things just to say, "I've got a J-Pipe". I want to buy them with the knowledge that I know what they'll be doing for my car.

I'm not asking for what I should do, or who I should buy from. I'm just asking in simple terms what each part does for my car & what parts can work together.
J-Pipe
Race Pipe
Test Pipe
Resonator
Cat/Pre-Cat Delete
x.x" tips

Again, I'm only asking so that I have a better understanding about what I'm buying. My other questions regarding these & the factory warranty will be answered by my dealer.

And before it's asked, I have googled for answers, but it's tricky when your results are just more parts. I've only managed to basically understand what some of these do after 3 hours of searching the web. Regardless, like I always say, I appreciate any replies, good or bad.

 

J-Pipe - A pipe that connects the exhaust from the front 3 cylinders and the back 3 cylinders so the emmisions travel in 1 pipe until they split at the back of the car again. The factory J-Pipe is litterally squished together thus creating a smaller pipe, thus creating restriction for the emmisions so they don't flow as fast. This causes backpressure which leads to power-loss.

Race Pipe - after the J-Pipe is the 3rd Cat, the racepipe replaces the cat with an open pipe so restriction is removed.

Test Pipe - see race pipe.
Resonator

Cat/Pre-Cat Delete - Right after the the exhaust manifold comes cats, 1 per 3 cylinders. these cats cause a restriction thus slowing exhaust and so forth. Eliminating them reduces the restriction which creates more power.

x.x" tips - no idea what you mean...????

 

Thanks for the clarification, csmeance! By x.x", I've seen folks list 2.5" tips, or so. I'm assuming that has to do with the exhaust tips?

So, in theory, I could buy all 3 Pipes or can the car only fit a Race or Test Pipe? And if so, is there anything I should know to keep the car from sounding scratchy (an issue I've heard from folks who have bought these parts & deleted the resonator)?

 

This is the order of which they all come, assuming the FT of the car is on the Left and rear is on the right

Pre Cats=Jpipe=race pipe=Exhuast

Long story short. The stock Jpipe, catalytic converter, exhuast all restrict airflow. The AM parts listed dont restrict airflow. Which equals better performance(more HP).

 

Ok, so following your diagram, would this be plausible?

RV6 Pre-Cat Delete=ATLP J-Pipe=RV6 Race Pipe=Exhaust

I haven't had a lot of time to study either of their products to see how they work together, or if either has their own setup, but these are 2 brands that are very well respected here.

BTW, what exactly makes the Test Pipe different from the Race Pipe if they are the same? The amount of restriction?

 

That setup is ideal.

The only difference between a race pipe and test pipe is that a test pipe is resonated (less noisy). Both are essentially a piece of straight pipe, nothing more.

 

Ok, seems I will be going for that then. My only 2 remaining questions regarding this are

1) How much of this can be DIY work?
2) I've heard ATLP & RV6's J-Pipe are different fitments in that ATLP's hangs low, while RV6's is more "secure" up in the car.

 

1) It's all DIY. The pre-cat delete's I think can be difficult though. The rest are definatly DIY.
2) Not sure...

 

Subscribed, I am interested in learning more about this.

 

Hmm, I'll talk to Jotech then.


Anyways, might go for this setup

RV6 Pre-Cat+J-Pipe+3rd Cat (that combination deal)+XLR8/ATLP Exhaust.
Being so, I assume there are no issues installing these parts weeks apart. As well, I assume the parts will still let the car pass any emissions test.

Either way, I think my questions have all been answered for now except for maybe if anyone knows how this setup will sound (loud & raspy or more throaty like the ATLP exhaust), or if I'm going to need a truck to carry the stock piping home.

 

good work men.

 

You will not pass emissions with the precats and test pipe... you're essentially removing all catalytic converters.

Also, the ATLP pipe sits lower than the subframe, while the RV6 pipe is higher up. If you plan on lowering more than 1.5 inches, I'd say go for the RV6 pipe.

I have RV6 j-pipe, RV6 j-pipe, and ATLP exhaust, and the exhaust note sounds beautiful, not raspy or ricey at all. I get compliments everywhere I go and you will too.

 

whoa! 2 jpipes installed?

 

lol...i meant RV6 race pipe. good eye.

 

I am also very interested in this thread.

First I want to pass emissions. I would like to buy the new ATLP catback and a J-pipe, I also would like to buy the test pipe and delete the 3rd cat, will I still pass emissions with the other OEM cats? I want to add about 40hp to my 260hp 06 TL manual. I just ordered the V2 intake. I figure getting the V2 intake, the new ATLP catback exhaust and a J-pipe should do this. Will it? If not what else should I add? How much are low restriction cat converters and where what brand is best? Thanks for suggestions, I have been reading and searching all over, after seeing this great thread I figure somebody can put me in the right direction. Jeff D.

 

You won't get that kind of hp from those mods. Figure ~10 whp from the j-pipe and ~11 whp from the catback (these have been dyno'd by others). Opinions will vary on the intake, but I've had an intake on every vehicle I've owned and if you ask me, the power increase is more percieved than actual. Deleting the 3rd cat with either a race or test pipe will get you a couple more whp also. And, unless you have other mods (pulley, etc.) you aren't putting out 260 whp right now. Remember, the hp numbers you read from the manufacturer are what the engine is putting out and does not account for the losses you'll get putting that power to the wheels. Hope this helps some.

 

Then that may pose a slight issue, esp. if the pre-cats are tricky to swap out. So, might be a no-go then for those then. However, I would like to keep the Race Pipe.

Thus, I assume when it comes time for the yearly inspection, the pipe can be easily removed by a couple of bolts and replaced with the original 3rd muffler?

 

From what I've read, you will still be able to pass emissions without reinstalling the 3rd cat assuming you still have the precats. If you have to pass a visual inspection there may be a problem. In this case, you could go with the ATLP race pipe since it has brackets that you can use to reattach the stock 3rd cat heat shield making it look stock.

 

Cool, then. Thanks for that info.

And just so we're clear, the RV6 Race Pipe & the RV6 Hi Flow Cat are the "same" part, correct, with the latter being resonated?

 

No that is not true.. There are three variations that Richie makes for the 3rd cat..

1. Race pipe = straight pipe


2. Test pipe = resonated straight pipe


3. Highflow cat = catalytic converter that is less dense, therefore allowing more flow but still retaining some value of emissions..


Sorry Rich for stealing your pics without asking..

 

Doh, then.

Cheers for the info. All I want to know now is how loud this might be, mainly if drone will be there or not.

 

Good thread, cleared all my questions with out even asking. With emmission problems I wont be purchasing the "delete pipes" unless it's a rather quick swap?

 

The only ones that are a pain to install are the precats. The 3rd cat/test pipe/race pipe are all easy 15 minute installs.

 

My best guess it that keeping the stock primary cats (pre-cats) and removing the 3rd cat will pass an emission "sniff" test.

Deleting all 3 cats (with precat deletes and a test/race pipe) will not pass.

The question is if you install pre-cat deletes and retain the only the 3rd cat would you pass. My guess is not, but I am not sure of that.


Also, with out a free-flowing catback exhaust you cannot maximize the gains from the pre-cat delelts or j-pipe.

 

Get the rv6 package. Excellent quality! Will be installing within the next few days

 

I was about to, however, I do not want to do the pre-cat deletes if it will cause inspection problems. Because the race pipe though can be removed in 30 minutes or less, I'd rather just get that.

@Bearcat: I originally wanted to do the ATLP exhaust, but it's going out of production & I do not have the $1,000 for it.

 

Search "Acura TL ATLP" on youtube. There are over a dozen video clips, some with only the ATLP exhaust, some with J-pipe + exhaust, and a few with the full monty (pre-cats, j-pipe, race-pipe, exhaust). Some clips are outside the car, and some inside. You'll get a much better idea of what kind of sound/drone you will get with some or all of these mods.

 

^^^Awesome.

I want to do the J-pipe, test pipe for 3rd cat, and a catback exhaust.

I was going to get the XLR8 J-pipe and whatever test pipe for the 3rd cat, and the new ATLP catback with the new dual rectangular tips.

Why should I get the RV6 J-pipe over the XLR8 J-pipe ??? I don't know.

Thanks for answers!!! Jeff

 

I've done that before and while they sound great, the most RV-6 parts they seem to have is the pre-cats delete. Oh well, ATLP's & RV-6's J- & Race Pipe can't sound too different when there's a stock exhaust setup at the end.

 

^^Only difference is price IMO. I received the full rv6 combo(precat deletes, jpipe, race pipe), all are excellent quality, will be installing thursday

 

I can relate to that; I have a similar problem.

You will get gains, just not maximum gains; I am in the same boat.

 

Nice thread!!! I was thinking about supercharging, but I guess I should start with all this first. Plus, I too want to be able to pass smog (California) I haven't seen this anywhere, but has anyone run this setup?

Pre-cat deletes= aftermarket J-Pipe= High flow Cat = exhaust

and still pass smog?

I've heard of

stock cats=J-Pipe=Race/test Pipe= Exhaust

still passing. Buuut what about the first one I mentioned?

Man this is way more complicated than I remember... hahaha.. my Civic was headers=straight pipe=exhaust

 

I think the pre-cats delete is what may cause you to fail emissions as I think the part it is replacing is what causes your 2nd example to pass.

Of course, I'm not too sure. I'll be talking to Jotech tomorrow, so I'll ask them for ya.

 

Nice, get ready for the droan bomb

 

^^^Opinions, answers, Thankyou. Jeff

 

You're not going to get a definitive answer for this. Each essentially does the same thing and give similar gains. I usally don't like when people harp on this but you really need to search, this topic has been discussed several times with input from people that have these pipes and some people that have tried more than one of them. Start here.....https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=703598&highlight=j+pipe+which and go from there. You could probably spend the better part of a day just reading the j-pipe threads. Hope this helps.

 

Well, I'm pretty much set on my decision. However, my last questions. I want to do this myself. I missed out letting Jotech install the intake, and this mod seems to take even less time.

Thus, what tools will I need to install the j-pipe & race pipe? I've heard from some that I don't need to torch or weld on anything, that it's all bolt on. And, is there any pre-install things I should know before I go under the car?

Thanks again guys for your tremendous help.

 

Welding? Naaaahh... Jack, Jack stands, and a socket set I imagine... and if you're bolts/nuts are a bit stubborn maybe a small breaker bar or just some good ol muscle... that's about it. Just make sure the car is cool.. I think it's pretty straight forward. If I"m missing something please enlighten me.

 

I'd recommend hitting the bolts with some penetrating oil a few times leading up to the install. You could probably do without it, but why not make it at least a little easier.

I tried half-heartedly to get the bolts out while I had my car on stands doing some other work but didn't have any luck. I didn't have the right tools for the job though since I was visiting my parents at the time. A bunch of people have done this with hand tools but I've got a friend with a lift at his house so just waiting for him to get his project car out of the way!

 

Well, thanks for all your help guys, again. I see RV-6 is offering a deal of $360 for a J-Pipe & Test Pipe, so I guess that's what I'll get. Won't be as loud as the Race Pipe, but that's a damn good deal. Will update when everything's on and done which should be a few weeks.