Has anyone upgraded there clutch?

 

Yes, there are a couple members who have. Clutchmasters makes a setup for us, and so does Spec.

But, I don't recommend ANY aftermarket clutch as of right now.

If you do a search, you'll see why.

 

How come? I just started to find that if i take off my clutch is starting to slip a little and if i'm going to put a clutch in it i should upgrade it.

 

^^^ That's what the other guys figured, too, until both the CM and Spec setups failed on them.

I don't know the exact threads, but search for them, they're there.

 

Well that sucks.

Does the clutch from the TLs line up with the TL?

 

^ Hmmm...now THAT's something I'm not sure about. Maybe somebody who knows the answer will chime in?

 

You're not alone, bro. I was thinking hard about an aftermarket clutch, but I read what the other members went through. I'm glad I stayed stock.

 

The stock clutch grabs pretty hard still

An aftermarket would be nice but might eventually wear out your tranny mount

not sure if they make upgrade tranny mounts??

 

Well if what i was told was right the stock clutch on a TL is a single finger clutch. But there are 3 fingered clutches out there. I think the stock clutch is a little weak for the power that the engine puts out. And i want to put more power into this car and i need to know that when i dump the clutch that power is reaching the tires.

 

The stock clutch cannot handle too much. Try launching from 4k RPM's. You'll smell a burning clutch after just one launch. I think maybe the Accord aftermarket tranny mount will fit. But Innovative makes aftermarket motor mounts.

All the guys who went with aftermarket setups said that the power they put down was a VAST improvement over stock, but it didn't last too long. Yes, the stock clutch isn't the best, but it's the most reliable up to this point.

 

That's what i mean. If i shift at 5 rpm and up i will start to slip. I can't really hit that power.

 

4k RPM is kinda high tho dont u think?

Tell u the truth, im scared to launch my car. I dont wanna mess up the tranny..

 

Yes; there are aftermarket motor mounts call Innovative. Myself and many others have them.

 

Totalacuratl:

Man you have a lot of upgrades

What hp are you putting at the wheels?

Are you running a stock clutch?

 

The stock clutch/trans has a relase valve which causes the clutch to engage slowly so it doesn't jam into other parts, it appears to be slipping when it's really not. It's also self adjusting so you won't feel it slip unless is completely worn.

 

well i got the clutch masters and it sucks....you have to change the ring gear for your stock one and brake it in for at least 1000 miles... I am on my 2nd clutch disk now and i hope it will last more than 6 months if it doesn't am selling the car...

 

Yes I know about innovative motor mounts..but im talkin about transmission mount..

Aftermarket clutches that grab harder than oem will wear out your transmission mounts quicker eventually..I wouldnt upgrade my clutch to an aftermarket unless I know they have upgraded aftermarket tranny mounts.

I had a aftermarket exedy clutch on my old integra and tranny mount went out before ya know it..and since it was already an old car.

 

Yeah, I still have the stock clutch with over 95k on the clock. It's still doing pretty good. I have not dynoed in a while. Before the wheels and exhaust work, I put down 248hp/225tq. I'm sure I'm putting down at least 260.

 

My bad.....one of my tranny mounts is worn, but does not seem to effect the operation much. Don't know if the motor mount contributes to that or not.

 

Innovative makes mounts for all around...its better to upgrade all rather than just one side. Anyway I am still looking at a clutch but Exedy sounds really good to me for a next clutch upgrade since people have had issues with CM and Spec. Im gonna call up Exedy to see if they have a picture of the PP. I dont want the Self adjusting mechanism I just want a solid faced plate that will work. If they do they have me sold compared to the others.

Launching at 4k is doable if you know how to feather the clutch out...I used to do it on my h22a accord all the time and it hooked just fine. I wanted to launch my TL at 4k at the track but I was worried about the clutch...I launched around 2500-3000 and the clutch started to feel light after doing 10 runs pretty much in succession with about 5-10 minute break in between each run.

 

I am running the stock clutch with 320 WHP and having no problems. I would just stay with the stock clutch as a replacement until someone comes out with a better clutch. Launching at 4k power shifting under WOT are just ways to accelerate wear. It does not take that long to let the clutch engauge before going WOT. Once engauged the stock clutch is strong enough to spin to redline in 1st-3rd on all TQ.

I think people just what to churp the tires and the TL is not the car for that BS.

 

I am not wanting something to chirp tire but something that holds after a day of track/road course abuse. If I wanted that I would have taken a z06 over this car. Anyway I just want a durable clutch that can stand up to feathering without being a hassle. I like to find out where the best launch point of this car is and I still haven't. I dont trust the factory dampening system either which I think fucks up the launch a bit depending on how you feather the clutch. I dont understand why this system was implemented since it eats away at the clutch more than it does good during spirited driving.

 

Stock clutch can't really hold NA power very well its decent but as soon as you go past 300whp it wil start to slip on you in 3rd and 4th gear lets say when trying to downshift on the freeway and slowly at that.

Talked to Competition Clutch at SpoCom here in Long Beach a few weeks ago and they are working on adapting a Prelude clutch kit to work with our cars and also on a lightweight steel flywheel, sometime next year they said.

 

As far as drag racing, the TL is not great and the clutch makes it harder. Road racing as long as you are not beating on it too much is fine.

You could remove the clutch dampener and that would give you faster engaugement, but you risk other issues.

 

Yea I am researching a good way to get rid of the dampener right now if not just redesign the whole thing. Not a fan of this assist deal. IMO dampeners are useless and accelerate wear that is not needed.

 

There is a new member named OPEL who I think has done the removal of the dampener. The whole point of it is to give you a smoother engaugement and to reduce stress on the tranny. Some of the supercharged 6 speed guys have torn up trannys from the harsh engaugement of aftermarket clutches.

 

ahh gotcha. I am pretty sure there is a remedy to that. But then I would need an extra trans to tear apart and find out. By the looks of it I think it is in the master cylinder but I will have to see. I will definitely check out OPEL's post. Thanks for the info.

 

Here is a clutch that is made for 04 to 06 TL
But it is a TLS clutch
Here is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...Q5fAccessories

I was looking at this one

Does anyone know anyone that has this clutch?

 

woobs,

That's an OEM NON Type-S clutch. 3G Type-S TL's were only made in '07 and '08. That's a factory part.

 

base and type-s have diffrent clutch?

 

I don't think so. I think the clutches are the same in all 6 speed TL's type-s or not.

 

Am I misunderstanding something?

 

^^^ All I was saying was that the dealership was misprinting something...saying that the TL Type-S was from the '04 to '06 MY's.

 

I thought they were saying that the clutch was a TL Type-s clutch that was made for the TL 04 to 06.
I know that the TLS did come out until 07 because i wish i had one.

Anyway what i was trying to figure out was what i should do. If there is ever a ? about the TL this is the site to go to for good advice.

OEM clutch or aftermarket?

 

i put a stage 1 bully clutch into my car and it feels great.I drive my car pretty hard and its been 7 month, no problems yet.

 

Hello guys...

let me start by saying.... stock clutch sucks monkey balls...lol

So, i did modify the slave cylinder...and ill say this out loud THERE IS A CHECK VALVE INSIDE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.... prevents the clutch from engaging quickly, which causes slipping under quick shifts, that will also happen with an aftermarket clutch set up... that valve is the evil if this all, its worse than the dual-mass flywheel.

removing the valve is fairly easy.....i did, however destroy one slave cylinder....but thats cause i couldn't pop it open so i messed it up....but i bought a new one for i think $80 and easily removed the valve, sinnce it was new and wasnt jammed from dirt and crap.

IT DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE..... the dash wants to pop outta place


happy 4th.

 

Thats what I want to hear =D. I am tired of this...Sometimes I am taking off a bit quick and feels like the clutch is not grabbing but its not slipping at the same time...It pisses me off and this is just daily driving off the light. I am used to a dampener not being there. For some reason I thought it was in the MC because i was researching the diagrams from the 03 CLS six speed to the 04 Tl six speed. I was looking at it and the 03 has an external dampener but same slave number as the 04 tl so went to the mc and debated if that was true lol. But good thing to know man for sure. I will have to do this in the near future whenever I get the chance.

Personally I dont think there are any issues if you know how to drive a manual trans but have you noticed anything wearing out faster and so on? But anyway happy 4th to all also.

 

Yes, your clutch will definitely wear out faster, especially under heavy accelaration and quick shifts... just imagine what happens when you shift at 7k (i full throttle shift all the time) and the clutch engages slowly while flywheel is spinning at 7k....its the same as sitting at a light bleeding the clutch at 4k as u try to launch.... its HORRIBLE...and the organic crappy stock clutch wears out like soap.

listen guys....give me a little time, and i will try and post pictures and a whole procedure explaining how to do this to the best of my ability, and try and prevent u from messing it up, so u could save ur $80

cheers:

 

I think the average manual transmission driver leaves a lot to be desired and the factory knows it. The damper is there so the average person can't hurt the car, unfortunately it hurts the people that do know how to drive.

I'm not sure why anyone would ever need to launch the TL at 4-5K rpms on street tires. The TL-S I drove was easy to launch. 3K rpms, foot to the floor, very brief clutch slip with a little tire spin and it was off. No drama and just a little tire slippage with no bogging.

Slipping the clutch at 4,000rpm does nothing for you besides hurt the clutch on street tires. I could understand if it were on drag radials or slicks.

 

it was only an example.... and btw, some ppl like me put too much work into their cars...therefore i will not babysit it. I will drive it hard, and shift it hard till the dash pops outta place

so i will say again... slave cylinder and dual-mass flywheel on the TL are completely disgusting....

if anyone wants the soft side of a car, they should just buy an auto. .. there's no "i want a very fast car, with loads of power, but quiet as it can be. best handling, but soft suspension. soft engaging clutch for smooth shifts . max performance tires but quiet" <<<thats what a bitch wants...

if you wanna feel connected to ur machine...everything's gotta be HARD.... there's no ifs ands or buts