Closed-loop fuel enrichment
Once I'm ready for testers, I'll be looking for a vehicle with a few things...
- Forced induction
- AEM F/IC
- NO check engine lights
- People with OBD-II scanners will be given first priority. (They can tell me what their short/long-term fuel trims are)
Also, the individual should be armed with a nice multimeter and soldering iron to ensure that they have proper connections.
- Forced induction
- AEM F/IC
- NO check engine lights
- People with OBD-II scanners will be given first priority. (They can tell me what their short/long-term fuel trims are)
Also, the individual should be armed with a nice multimeter and soldering iron to ensure that they have proper connections.
Except for the occasional CEL for a slow reacting lower O2 sensor CEL every once and a while, I have all the credentials!
Just need to get a netbook so I can use Logworks Windows instead of mobile.
The car goes into open-loop under WOT and very near WOT. I believe it needs to be under a load as well, but I'm not sure on the exact numbers there.
Does your car actually throw a CEL when it misfires?
I know exactly what you're talking about with that hesitation. Typically what I saw is that my short-term fuel trim would drop to like -5% for a split second under extremely light loads in town or from a stop. That would cause the jerking. I have been able to smooth most of that out with this module, but in order to smooth all of it out, I would need a competent tuner to help fine tune the fuel and O2 maps to make sure they're not conflicting with each other.
One thing for everyone to keep in mind is that this isn't a magic box by any means. If a car has issues other than running too lean under closed-loop, don't expect this to solve every one of those problems. My opinion of the F/IC remains the same. It's still a half-assed solution - though unfortunately the best solution we have at the moment.
Once I'm ready for testers, I'll be looking for a vehicle with a few things...
- Forced induction
- AEM F/IC
- NO check engine lights
- People with OBD-II scanners will be given first priority. (They can tell me what their short/long-term fuel trims are)
Also, the individual should be armed with a nice multimeter and soldering iron to ensure that they have proper connections.
Does your car actually throw a CEL when it misfires?
I know exactly what you're talking about with that hesitation. Typically what I saw is that my short-term fuel trim would drop to like -5% for a split second under extremely light loads in town or from a stop. That would cause the jerking. I have been able to smooth most of that out with this module, but in order to smooth all of it out, I would need a competent tuner to help fine tune the fuel and O2 maps to make sure they're not conflicting with each other.
One thing for everyone to keep in mind is that this isn't a magic box by any means. If a car has issues other than running too lean under closed-loop, don't expect this to solve every one of those problems. My opinion of the F/IC remains the same. It's still a half-assed solution - though unfortunately the best solution we have at the moment.
Once I'm ready for testers, I'll be looking for a vehicle with a few things...
- Forced induction
- AEM F/IC
- NO check engine lights
- People with OBD-II scanners will be given first priority. (They can tell me what their short/long-term fuel trims are)
Also, the individual should be armed with a nice multimeter and soldering iron to ensure that they have proper connections.
Ill take look at my scanner and Ill watch the fuel trims when this jerking happens to see if I have the same symptoms as you
I recommend this scanner for people who are in need of one. It has live data as well and is very well priced.
Autel.us AutoLink
http://www.autel.us/al309.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160461071609
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Wow I am very impressed with all the R&D that you are putting into this big problem that I've been having.
I will be more than happy to be part of this test for you.
My set up is:
Comptech Supercharger kit @ 6-7psi 328whp
Comptech Exhaust
Comptech Intake
NO CODES, but the car runs likes poop around 20%-30% throttle and around 2,000-3,500rpm. I am dying to get this resolve ASAP.
If you can call me @ 321-235-9959, so we can talk about this project.
Thanks for your time & help,
Fernando @ Kings Performance
I will be more than happy to be part of this test for you.
My set up is:
Comptech Supercharger kit @ 6-7psi 328whp
Comptech Exhaust
Comptech Intake
NO CODES, but the car runs likes poop around 20%-30% throttle and around 2,000-3,500rpm. I am dying to get this resolve ASAP.
If you can call me @ 321-235-9959, so we can talk about this project.
Thanks for your time & help,
Fernando @ Kings Performance
When the car misfires, the cel blinks several times but does not stay lit. When I hook up the obd scanner there are 7 codes stored. A misfire on each cylinder and random misfires. Ill take look at my scanner and Ill watch the fuel trims when this jerking happens to see if I have the same symptoms as you
I recommend this scanner for people who are in need of one. It has live data as well and is very well priced.
Autel.us AutoLink
http://www.autel.us/al309.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160461071609
I recommend this scanner for people who are in need of one. It has live data as well and is very well priced.
Autel.us AutoLink
http://www.autel.us/al309.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160461071609
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
I recently was swaping out Fic's to test a new tune (same one as KN_tl) and my car was doing that exact same thing. AFR was going crazy and the CEL was blinking scaned the codes and got 4 new ones. I was able to play with the connectors and get the car to run without a CEL but the stumbling was there and boost was building but no increase in power. Put my Fic back in and after reseting the codes the car is running amazing. I still get too rich bank 1 and 2 but thats another issue. My afr stays in the 13.8-14.6 at idle, 12.3 under boost for as long as I can watch it.
screenshot of your fic settings?
Update 8/27/10
Sorry for the lack of updates this week, guys. There have been no new developments this week with the module. It's sill behaving as well as it did the first day. I've been busy working with Richie tying to come up with a game plan to get these suckers mass produced.
Since all of my testing still seems to be going OK, I think I'll start getting a beta group together and get some test units out to them in the next couple of weeks.
I'd say we're about a month away from being able to start taking orders for these. (Provided all of the extra testing goes OK.)
Sorry for the lack of updates this week, guys. There have been no new developments this week with the module. It's sill behaving as well as it did the first day. I've been busy working with Richie tying to come up with a game plan to get these suckers mass produced.
Since all of my testing still seems to be going OK, I think I'll start getting a beta group together and get some test units out to them in the next couple of weeks.
I'd say we're about a month away from being able to start taking orders for these. (Provided all of the extra testing goes OK.)
I recently was swaping out Fic's to test a new tune (same one as KN_tl) and my car was doing that exact same thing. AFR was going crazy and the CEL was blinking scaned the codes and got 4 new ones. I was able to play with the connectors and get the car to run without a CEL but the stumbling was there and boost was building but no increase in power. Put my Fic back in and after reseting the codes the car is running amazing. I still get too rich bank 1 and 2 but thats another issue. My afr stays in the 13.8-14.6 at idle, 12.3 under boost for as long as I can watch it.
KN_TL, do you get these codes also?
I always throw these codes when slowly accelerating or just cruising. They never come on during wot. When do they come on for you?
Id love to know exactly what is causing these codes to come on. Whats range of a/f is considered acceptable for the ecu to not throw these codes
@libert69
Any chance you would be able to email me your fuel maps? I'm curious why the turbo guys are getting this, but not the S/C guys. Also, it'd help me figure out if this module can help alleviate the issue.
PM me when you get a chance.
Any chance you would be able to email me your fuel maps? I'm curious why the turbo guys are getting this, but not the S/C guys. Also, it'd help me figure out if this module can help alleviate the issue.
PM me when you get a chance.
I sent you 2 PMs but you can disregard both lol. I pulled all my maps from the FIC and I can send them to you. PM me your email
So your getting the "too rich bank 1&2" codes also? How often do you get them? I honestly get them everyday and reset them everyday. Extremely annoying.
KN_TL, do you get these codes also?
I always throw these codes when slowly accelerating or just cruising. They never come on during wot. When do they come on for you?
Id love to know exactly what is causing these codes to come on. Whats range of a/f is considered acceptable for the ecu to not throw these codes
KN_TL, do you get these codes also?
I always throw these codes when slowly accelerating or just cruising. They never come on during wot. When do they come on for you?
Id love to know exactly what is causing these codes to come on. Whats range of a/f is considered acceptable for the ecu to not throw these codes
I get them every couple days but only reset them every once in a while. I'm not sure when it happens but no noticeable issues to go along with it. Maybe when the car is warm and I have to crank the ignition a little longer the extra gas triggers the CEL.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
bmeyer I got the link to this thread from the aem forums and I have and 04 civic ex with a LAF 02 sensor, and if you want to test on a different car let me know. My car is setup up with a garrett t3 running 5psi for now, 310cc injuectors, and a FIC for control(No CEL). Let me know
let me know if you need someone to test this out. i got a s/c with HBP, bolt ons, meth injected and tuned with FIC.
i'm having that similar problem like the others mentioned above. when i take my car to redline then the CEL would flash but not stay on (random misfire). i'm gonna try and meet up with my tuner to get it resolved.
also i used to also throw codes for running too rich on bank 1 and 2. i went to Driving Ambition out in Sacramento and he suggested clamping the map and retune. that code hasnt popped up since.
i'm having that similar problem like the others mentioned above. when i take my car to redline then the CEL would flash but not stay on (random misfire). i'm gonna try and meet up with my tuner to get it resolved.
also i used to also throw codes for running too rich on bank 1 and 2. i went to Driving Ambition out in Sacramento and he suggested clamping the map and retune. that code hasnt popped up since.
I've only thrown 2 CEL's for a slow responding 02 circuit. However, my ride is not my daily driver so it's probably unfair to compare me to you two.
I went for a ride with my wife and pretty much stayed out of the boost and threw no codes. But when I did go into boost I get a weird stumbling again. Need to get to the tuner as I am still running rich.
I went for a ride with my wife and pretty much stayed out of the boost and threw no codes. But when I did go into boost I get a weird stumbling again. Need to get to the tuner as I am still running rich.
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
yo...
I have fic cal files for both n/a and F/i setups...the main thing I noticed with the fic is by using the voltage to afr table you are able to run a 13.7 to 13.9 afr at idle and partial wot (0 to 60%)....then you can either run a fuel map for a full spectrum of adding or removing fuel based on rpm or map setting....for WOT tuning...I use the second fuel map option on the fic..it's basically a tps based fuel map...the fic is a great piece to use provided you have it setup correctly...I have been very fortunate in that
NVA-AV6
and fl felon and bmeyer
(via aem forums) have helped with my entire FIC learning process...otherwise I would have already beat the piss out of the fic...
...i have even helped a acura boosted car near me get fully fic tuned by me...it now runs a 13.5 under WOT boost and a 13.7 to 13.9 at idle and a perfect 13.7 at partial wot and with the cruise control on...car sounds awesome and pulls very hard...I am running a 3.06 fic version and a z110.hex flash on the fic...hopefully this helps...
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Are you TRYING to blow it up?
No. First of all, it won't do you any good because you don't have the O2 hardware to support it. Second, any tune is highly specific to the car itself. Third, all that 'tune' in the pictures is voltages in the O2 table to verify that my module worked the way I wanted it to. Fourth, it says that your car is a 2G TL. That's a completely different beast.
Last edited by bmeyer; Sep 7, 2010 at 09:18 AM.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
i have even helped a acura boosted car near me get fully fic tuned by me...it now runs a 13.5 under WOT boost and a 13.7 to 13.9 at idle and a perfect 13.7 at partial wot and with the cruise control on...car sounds awesome and pulls very hard...I am running a 3.06 fic version and a z110.hex flash on the fic...hopefully this helps...
Update 9/11/10
Finally got the parts in for the beta units. I'll be assembling 6 units over the next week and get them off to my beta testers. I'll contact you guys after the controllers are built and let you know what the next steps are.
Finally got the parts in for the beta units. I'll be assembling 6 units over the next week and get them off to my beta testers. I'll contact you guys after the controllers are built and let you know what the next steps are.
My car is doing very well in the transition into boost. I can't tell if it's just the hi compression making the car fast but wow. I'm still working on the hi rpm boost but big Tq down low is serving me very well. I was coming home and last night when a CTSV with a nice rumble came up, I thought my exhaust cut out was open,when he punched the gas, I hit the gas and put 5 cars lengths on him before he could blink. I was next to him at the next light where I did open my cut out and he wanted nothing to do with me. 20-80 came real quick. I'm sure he is telling his tuner there is something wrong with his car because he was eaten by a TL.
is this unit as simple as plug and play? does the unit work by using the o2 map in the fic? i dont remember if you mentioned it. If so, are you including the pre-made map to get people running? I could use a point and a half easily
My car is doing very well in the transition into boost. I can't tell if it's just the hi compression making the car fast but wow. I'm still working on the hi rpm boost but big Tq down low is serving me very well. I was coming home and last night when a CTSV with a nice rumble came up, I thought my exhaust cut out was open,when he punched the gas, I hit the gas and put 5 cars lengths on him before he could blink. I was next to him at the next light where I did open my cut out and he wanted nothing to do with me. 20-80 came real quick. I'm sure he is telling his tuner there is something wrong with his car because he was eaten by a TL.
are you still running only 9psi? any hp numbers yet?
I can't really provide a full map per-say, but I can guide you through setting up the O2 table in the F/IC.
I'll also be providing Rodney with a beta unit. Hopefully he'll be able to give you turbo guys a better idea of where you should be. Maybe he can even provide a full map that you can upload to your F/IC.
There will be 5 solder connections for the O2 module that need to be made on your ECU extension harness. I'll include a wiring diagram as well as a pre-wired plug that will let you connect or disconnect the unit at any time.
I can't really provide a full map per-say, but I can guide you through setting up the O2 table in the F/IC.
I'll also be providing Rodney with a beta unit. Hopefully he'll be able to give you turbo guys a better idea of where you should be. Maybe he can even provide a full map that you can upload to your F/IC.
I can't really provide a full map per-say, but I can guide you through setting up the O2 table in the F/IC.
I'll also be providing Rodney with a beta unit. Hopefully he'll be able to give you turbo guys a better idea of where you should be. Maybe he can even provide a full map that you can upload to your F/IC.
Wiring isn't a problem.
Sorry for going off topic here but how much boost are you running? Finally got the hose situation figured out. Boost comes on nicely and doesn't go up wildly any longer. With all parms at their lowest I am getting 4-5psi.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: lebanon, pa
damn ur running alot of boost on stock block 3.2
. i know paul informed me that my/our j-series block(since i have 3rd gen tl block, except i have all forged internals) is limited to 12-13 psi max(without sleeving), anything higher and ur pushing it, and will start experiencing "cylinder walk"(plus the toothpick rods that are in the stock tl engine don't help either). since u wanna run 10-11psi, i say listen to ihc and make sure, i mean 100% sure ur meth with afr is running alright, cause raising the boost plus already lean afr spells death unless u got that meth spot on.
just be careful man, good luck and i wanna see dyno #'s
. i know paul informed me that my/our j-series block(since i have 3rd gen tl block, except i have all forged internals) is limited to 12-13 psi max(without sleeving), anything higher and ur pushing it, and will start experiencing "cylinder walk"(plus the toothpick rods that are in the stock tl engine don't help either). since u wanna run 10-11psi, i say listen to ihc and make sure, i mean 100% sure ur meth with afr is running alright, cause raising the boost plus already lean afr spells death unless u got that meth spot on.just be careful man, good luck and i wanna see dyno #'s
Last edited by tenzingsherpa; Sep 13, 2010 at 01:28 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
damn ur running alot of boost on stock block 3.2. i know paul informed me that my/our j-series block(since i have 3rd gen tl block, except i have all forged internals) is limited to 12-13 psi max(without sleeving), anything higher and ur pushing it, and will start experiencing "cylinder walk"(plus the toothpick rods that are in the stock tl engine don't help either). since u wanna run 10-11psi, i say listen to ihc and make sure, i mean 100% sure ur meth with afr is running alright, cause raising the boost plus already lean afr spells death unless u got that meth spot on.
just be careful man, good luck and i wanna see dyno #'s
. i know paul informed me that my/our j-series block(since i have 3rd gen tl block, except i have all forged internals) is limited to 12-13 psi max(without sleeving), anything higher and ur pushing it, and will start experiencing "cylinder walk"(plus the toothpick rods that are in the stock tl engine don't help either). since u wanna run 10-11psi, i say listen to ihc and make sure, i mean 100% sure ur meth with afr is running alright, cause raising the boost plus already lean afr spells death unless u got that meth spot on.just be careful man, good luck and i wanna see dyno #'s
I wonder at what point you start limiting rpms with the stock rods and boost. I understand rpm stresses the rods in a completely different way than boost (torque) does but at some point it may be best to start shifting a little sooner, say 6,500rpm. One motion stretches them, the other compresses them. Then again, boost reduces rod stretch at high rpms so I'm probably talking out of my ass.