Calling all exhaust experts - need help taming the RV6 beast
#1
Calling all exhaust experts - need help taming the RV6 beast
I started a thread a few days ago regarding the volume of the different aftermarket exhausts. My goal really was to find a way to quiet down my RV6 setup while trying my best to keep the sick tone.
My current setup is the RV6 HFPC, RV6 J-pipe, and RV6 true dual catback. I love the tone, but it just is a little too loud for daily commute.
I was hoping that any of you experts here could guide me or give me suggestions to quiet the exhaust system down (reduce outside noise and inside drone) while keeping the tone. I do not care about losing any performance gains as a result of this "taming process" (would swapping the RV6 j-pipe back to the stock one do anything to the volume?), and money isn't an issue at the moment.
The things I am concerned with are that the durability of the new system should be excellent (peace of mind that the exhaust will last a lifetime with minimal maintenance), and that due to my small apartment and trunk space, the number/size of new parts needed to complete this process should be kept to a minimum. I fully understand that this is asking for a lot and that usually there are trade-offs that need to be acknowledged, but that's why I need all your help :P. Hopefully it will be as simple as a muffler/resonator here and a muffler/resonator there... but I'm new to this.
Any ideas? Thank you for the attention, as always
.
My current setup is the RV6 HFPC, RV6 J-pipe, and RV6 true dual catback. I love the tone, but it just is a little too loud for daily commute.
I was hoping that any of you experts here could guide me or give me suggestions to quiet the exhaust system down (reduce outside noise and inside drone) while keeping the tone. I do not care about losing any performance gains as a result of this "taming process" (would swapping the RV6 j-pipe back to the stock one do anything to the volume?), and money isn't an issue at the moment.
The things I am concerned with are that the durability of the new system should be excellent (peace of mind that the exhaust will last a lifetime with minimal maintenance), and that due to my small apartment and trunk space, the number/size of new parts needed to complete this process should be kept to a minimum. I fully understand that this is asking for a lot and that usually there are trade-offs that need to be acknowledged, but that's why I need all your help :P. Hopefully it will be as simple as a muffler/resonator here and a muffler/resonator there... but I'm new to this.
Any ideas? Thank you for the attention, as always
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Last edited by kleenc2000; 01-31-2014 at 06:39 PM. Reason: engrish no bueno
#2
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
The easiest/cheapest option is probably to put either a muffler or resonator on each pipe inline with the current setup so you wouldn't be removing anything else, particularly if you don't care about performance.
As far as I understand it, a resonator is tuned to eliminate certain frequencies while a muffler is meant to attenuate ALL frequencies, thus the muffler is more restrictive but will be more effective at reducing overall exhaust volume.
As far as I understand it, a resonator is tuned to eliminate certain frequencies while a muffler is meant to attenuate ALL frequencies, thus the muffler is more restrictive but will be more effective at reducing overall exhaust volume.
#5
not sure of the layout and/or measurements for fitment, but I have the magnaflow x-muffler on my true-dual on my G35. Its great bc there's actually an X pipe in the middle and the exhaust flow cross paths, which is beneficial for true-dual. But it looks like the rv6 isn't really true-dual since it already merges at the j-pipe, you can probably find any 2-in/2-out universal mufflers and find a straight parallel section and swap it right in.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=11393
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=11393
#6
KingKong_Dav
not sure of the layout and/or measurements for fitment, but I have the magnaflow x-muffler on my true-dual on my G35. Its great bc there's actually an X pipe in the middle and the exhaust flow cross paths, which is beneficial for true-dual. But it looks like the rv6 isn't really true-dual since it already merges at the j-pipe, you can probably find any 2-in/2-out universal mufflers and find a straight parallel section and swap it right in.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=11393
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=11393
#7
i have the same setup as you i had to take off my rv6 pipe because of some issues i had to fix but when i put on the stock it sounds so sweet quit but loud when you get on it and idk why but the car almost feels faster
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#10
The easiest/cheapest option is probably to put either a muffler or resonator on each pipe inline with the current setup so you wouldn't be removing anything else, particularly if you don't care about performance.
As far as I understand it, a resonator is tuned to eliminate certain frequencies while a muffler is meant to attenuate ALL frequencies, thus the muffler is more restrictive but will be more effective at reducing overall exhaust volume.
As far as I understand it, a resonator is tuned to eliminate certain frequencies while a muffler is meant to attenuate ALL frequencies, thus the muffler is more restrictive but will be more effective at reducing overall exhaust volume.
![](http://estore.honda.com/acura/images/parts/catalogs/EA/14SEP401/Estore/illustrations2/SEP4B0201.png)
The product works for sure. It's just that living and working in a city I'm in and around parking structures a lot of the time and the exhaust tone just gets magnified to the point where it sets off other car alarms.
#11
Thank you for your suggestion. Just to help me visually, where (roughly) is the pipe inline according to this picture?
![](http://estore.honda.com/acura/images/parts/catalogs/EA/14SEP401/Estore/illustrations2/SEP4B0201.png)
The product works for sure. It's just that living and working in a city I'm in and around parking structures a lot of the time and the exhaust tone just gets magnified to the point where it sets off other car alarms.
![](http://estore.honda.com/acura/images/parts/catalogs/EA/14SEP401/Estore/illustrations2/SEP4B0201.png)
The product works for sure. It's just that living and working in a city I'm in and around parking structures a lot of the time and the exhaust tone just gets magnified to the point where it sets off other car alarms.
The jpipe would go in front of all that, where it says 12 is where the jpipe will connect with the rest of the exhaust.
#12
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
I've been in your shoes. I have PCDs Jpipe and ATLP resonated quads. That setup was super loud and obnoxious so I purchased a fat resonator for $100 and went to a local members muffler shop and had it welded in place right after the Jpipe.
80% of the in cabin drone went away. I'm able to talk to the person in my car without having to raise my voice now. Driving on the highway doesn't make my ears numb with all the droning that used to be there.
Best of all my car doesn't sound like a ricer civic when I'm driving low speeds around a parking lot to find a place to park anymore.
I highly suggest you buying a resonator and get it welded into your exhaust system. You might have to buy 2 small resonators and put one on each pipe of the dual exhaust
80% of the in cabin drone went away. I'm able to talk to the person in my car without having to raise my voice now. Driving on the highway doesn't make my ears numb with all the droning that used to be there.
Best of all my car doesn't sound like a ricer civic when I'm driving low speeds around a parking lot to find a place to park anymore.
I highly suggest you buying a resonator and get it welded into your exhaust system. You might have to buy 2 small resonators and put one on each pipe of the dual exhaust
#15
I've been in your shoes. I have PCDs Jpipe and ATLP resonated quads. That setup was super loud and obnoxious so I purchased a fat resonator for $100 and went to a local members muffler shop and had it welded in place right after the Jpipe.
80% of the in cabin drone went away. I'm able to talk to the person in my car without having to raise my voice now. Driving on the highway doesn't make my ears numb with all the droning that used to be there.
Best of all my car doesn't sound like a ricer civic when I'm driving low speeds around a parking lot to find a place to park anymore.
I highly suggest you buying a resonator and get it welded into your exhaust system. You might have to buy 2 small resonators and put one on each pipe of the dual exhaust
80% of the in cabin drone went away. I'm able to talk to the person in my car without having to raise my voice now. Driving on the highway doesn't make my ears numb with all the droning that used to be there.
Best of all my car doesn't sound like a ricer civic when I'm driving low speeds around a parking lot to find a place to park anymore.
I highly suggest you buying a resonator and get it welded into your exhaust system. You might have to buy 2 small resonators and put one on each pipe of the dual exhaust
#17
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
ATLP quads come in both resonated or non-resonated forms. I have the resonated version. However the resonator that came with the exhaust is really small (both diameter and length) so it didn't help much reducing drone and rasp because I already had Rv6 PCDs and Rv6 j-pipe.
What I did was simply cut out the factory ATLP resonator and had a bigger resonator welded in it's place.
![](http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1307/tl0031.jpg)
This is what I bought for $100 on ebay and had it welded in place of the original ATLP resonator.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/d...rtnumber=12640
I didn't take this picture but this looks like the best picture I can find to show the size difference of the factory ATLP resonator vs the Magnaflow 12640
![](http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m502/morrill3/IMG_20110326_222739.jpg)
The 12640 is a big boy. It's a 6" round resonator. I think a 4" round resonator will do the job for you and you won't have any problems with clearing bumps without scraping.
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 02-02-2014 at 08:01 PM.
#18
KingKong_Dav
#19
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
A true dual set up would eliminate that j-pipe and have individual piping running from each precat all the way back.
RV6 "true" dual set up below
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b36/Richiev6/DSC_3591.jpg)
vs a real true dual setup on G35
![](http://g35driver.com/forums/attachments/archived-sales/103311d1237361847-fs-hks-true-dual-exaust-700-exhaust-001.jpg)
#20
you will love it trust me i feels so much faster sounds amazing and personally like the oem jpipe better
#21
True duals are allowed to have n "h" or "x" section n still be considered a true dual... those are added to "true duals" to keep backpressure... different cars do it differently but they are still.... true duals... just with a h or x section merge
#22
Theoretically speaking the RV6 setup isn't a real "true" dual system because the J-pipe merges both precats into 1 chamber and than the rv6 system bolts up to the j-pipe that splits back out into 2 single pipes all the way back.
A true dual set up would eliminate that j-pipe and have individual piping running from each precat all the way back.
RV6 "true" dual set up below
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b36/Richiev6/DSC_3591.jpg)
vs a real true dual setup on G35
![](http://g35driver.com/forums/attachments/archived-sales/103311d1237361847-fs-hks-true-dual-exaust-700-exhaust-001.jpg)
A true dual set up would eliminate that j-pipe and have individual piping running from each precat all the way back.
RV6 "true" dual set up below
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b36/Richiev6/DSC_3591.jpg)
vs a real true dual setup on G35
![](http://g35driver.com/forums/attachments/archived-sales/103311d1237361847-fs-hks-true-dual-exaust-700-exhaust-001.jpg)
#24
blah!
really? I have the same setup and I find it not loud enough :P
as for the comments about the RV6 not being a true dual.. A true dual would have to have an H pipe or an X Pipe or just 2 separate systems. The RV6 exhaust kind of has an xpipe... There is a connector there and its a does have some length to it.. I do think that the exhaust gases merge in that flange area and just split back up to the two channels.
It is up to you to determine what you consider a true x pipe.. But in most standards the RV6 setup does not resemble what most consider to be an xpipe due to the connector/flange.
![](http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9159978/mmfp_0708_11_z%2B2006_ford_mustang_GT_exhaust_install%2BX_pipe.jpg)
![](http://www.goapr.com/includes/img/products/exhaust_b8_s4_30tfsi_crossover_mid.gif)
![](http://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/techguides/Choosing%20Between%20Mustang%20H-Pipes%20and%20X-Pipes/infographic-of-mustang-xpipe-vs-hpipe-guide-01.jpg)
I have debated cutting off the flanges and having someone weld a more true to x pipe design. But not sure if it'll be worth it.. Loosing the flange would also mean I don't have to scrape the flange anymore..
as for the comments about the RV6 not being a true dual.. A true dual would have to have an H pipe or an X Pipe or just 2 separate systems. The RV6 exhaust kind of has an xpipe... There is a connector there and its a does have some length to it.. I do think that the exhaust gases merge in that flange area and just split back up to the two channels.
It is up to you to determine what you consider a true x pipe.. But in most standards the RV6 setup does not resemble what most consider to be an xpipe due to the connector/flange.
![](http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9159978/mmfp_0708_11_z%2B2006_ford_mustang_GT_exhaust_install%2BX_pipe.jpg)
![](http://www.goapr.com/includes/img/products/exhaust_b8_s4_30tfsi_crossover_mid.gif)
![](http://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/techguides/Choosing%20Between%20Mustang%20H-Pipes%20and%20X-Pipes/infographic-of-mustang-xpipe-vs-hpipe-guide-01.jpg)
I have debated cutting off the flanges and having someone weld a more true to x pipe design. But not sure if it'll be worth it.. Loosing the flange would also mean I don't have to scrape the flange anymore..
#25
KingKong_Dav
#26
#28
really? I have the same setup and I find it not loud enough :P
as for the comments about the RV6 not being a true dual.. A true dual would have to have an H pipe or an X Pipe or just 2 separate systems. The RV6 exhaust kind of has an xpipe... There is a connector there and its a does have some length to it.. I do think that the exhaust gases merge in that flange area and just split back up to the two channels.
It is up to you to determine what you consider a true x pipe.. But in most standards the RV6 setup does not resemble what most consider to be an xpipe due to the connector/flange.
![](http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9159978/mmfp_0708_11_z%2B2006_ford_mustang_GT_exhaust_install%2BX_pipe.jpg)
![](http://www.goapr.com/includes/img/products/exhaust_b8_s4_30tfsi_crossover_mid.gif)
![](http://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/techguides/Choosing%20Between%20Mustang%20H-Pipes%20and%20X-Pipes/infographic-of-mustang-xpipe-vs-hpipe-guide-01.jpg)
I have debated cutting off the flanges and having someone weld a more true to x pipe design. But not sure if it'll be worth it.. Loosing the flange would also mean I don't have to scrape the flange anymore..
as for the comments about the RV6 not being a true dual.. A true dual would have to have an H pipe or an X Pipe or just 2 separate systems. The RV6 exhaust kind of has an xpipe... There is a connector there and its a does have some length to it.. I do think that the exhaust gases merge in that flange area and just split back up to the two channels.
It is up to you to determine what you consider a true x pipe.. But in most standards the RV6 setup does not resemble what most consider to be an xpipe due to the connector/flange.
![](http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9159978/mmfp_0708_11_z%2B2006_ford_mustang_GT_exhaust_install%2BX_pipe.jpg)
![](http://www.goapr.com/includes/img/products/exhaust_b8_s4_30tfsi_crossover_mid.gif)
![](http://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/techguides/Choosing%20Between%20Mustang%20H-Pipes%20and%20X-Pipes/infographic-of-mustang-xpipe-vs-hpipe-guide-01.jpg)
I have debated cutting off the flanges and having someone weld a more true to x pipe design. But not sure if it'll be worth it.. Loosing the flange would also mean I don't have to scrape the flange anymore..
#30
Mr. Detail
Can't imagine there is that much difference between the stock Accord and stock TL j-pipe, is there?
#31
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
every one has different tires.
so, whats the point of having one person with shitty ass balding all seasons chirp 2nd in an automatic......
when I can chirp my SUPER GRIPPY summer tires during all three gears changes at will. because 6mt.
translation:
at all you tire chirp-ers.
so, whats the point of having one person with shitty ass balding all seasons chirp 2nd in an automatic......
when I can chirp my SUPER GRIPPY summer tires during all three gears changes at will. because 6mt.
translation:
![rofl](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
#32
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