kleenc2000

I started a thread a few days ago regarding the volume of the different aftermarket exhausts. My goal really was to find a way to quiet down my RV6 setup while trying my best to keep the sick tone.

My current setup is the RV6 HFPC, RV6 J-pipe, and RV6 true dual catback. I love the tone, but it just is a little too loud for daily commute.

I was hoping that any of you experts here could guide me or give me suggestions to quiet the exhaust system down (reduce outside noise and inside drone) while keeping the tone. I do not care about losing any performance gains as a result of this "taming process" (would swapping the RV6 j-pipe back to the stock one do anything to the volume?), and money isn't an issue at the moment.

The things I am concerned with are that the durability of the new system should be excellent (peace of mind that the exhaust will last a lifetime with minimal maintenance), and that due to my small apartment and trunk space, the number/size of new parts needed to complete this process should be kept to a minimum. I fully understand that this is asking for a lot and that usually there are trade-offs that need to be acknowledged, but that's why I need all your help :P. Hopefully it will be as simple as a muffler/resonator here and a muffler/resonator there... but I'm new to this.


Any ideas? Thank you for the attention, as always .

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

The easiest/cheapest option is probably to put either a muffler or resonator on each pipe inline with the current setup so you wouldn't be removing anything else, particularly if you don't care about performance.

As far as I understand it, a resonator is tuned to eliminate certain frequencies while a muffler is meant to attenuate ALL frequencies, thus the muffler is more restrictive but will be more effective at reducing overall exhaust volume.

kingkong_dav

Ditch the jpipe n go w a jpipe using the 3rd cat

Richie v6

Too loud. You could try putting on your stock jpipe first or keep the jpipe and swap out the HFPCs for stock precats.

Stock Jpipe and precats

Ratm68

not sure of the layout and/or measurements for fitment, but I have the magnaflow x-muffler on my true-dual on my G35. Its great bc there's actually an X pipe in the middle and the exhaust flow cross paths, which is beneficial for true-dual. But it looks like the rv6 isn't really true-dual since it already merges at the j-pipe, you can probably find any 2-in/2-out universal mufflers and find a straight parallel section and swap it right in.

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=11393

kingkong_dav

Wtf? R u serious?. Richie products works.

Brennan8

i have the same setup as you i had to take off my rv6 pipe because of some issues i had to fix but when i put on the stock it sounds so sweet quit but loud when you get on it and idk why but the car almost feels faster

Ratm68

huh? what did you find so offensive about what i suggested?

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Because he does not thoroughly read anything that is posted on this site.

kleenc2000

Thank you for your suggestion. Just to help me visually, where (roughly) is the pipe inline according to this picture?




The product works for sure. It's just that living and working in a city I'm in and around parking structures a lot of the time and the exhaust tone just gets magnified to the point where it sets off other car alarms.

Brennan8

The jpipe would go in front of all that, where it says 12 is where the jpipe will connect with the rest of the exhaust.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

I've been in your shoes. I have PCDs Jpipe and ATLP resonated quads. That setup was super loud and obnoxious so I purchased a fat resonator for $100 and went to a local members muffler shop and had it welded in place right after the Jpipe.

80% of the in cabin drone went away. I'm able to talk to the person in my car without having to raise my voice now. Driving on the highway doesn't make my ears numb with all the droning that used to be there.

Best of all my car doesn't sound like a ricer civic when I'm driving low speeds around a parking lot to find a place to park anymore.

I highly suggest you buying a resonator and get it welded into your exhaust system. You might have to buy 2 small resonators and put one on each pipe of the dual exhaust

breck569

iTrader: (1)

Was your car less raspy with the oem j pipe, and how so did it feel faster. Im curious because i almost want to put my oem j pipe back on because i have a leak in flex pipe

Scottwax

Either a better resonator or swap the mufflers out with something like Walker Quiet-Flow mufflers.

kleenc2000

Noob question, but how come the extra resonator helps so much when the catback itself is already resonated? Is the catback resonator itself irrelevant/insufficient at reducing drone?

Scottwax

Resonators on most after-market cat back systems aren't there for any real sound control, just enough to take the edge off.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Not all resonators are the same. They came in different sizes which plays a role in how effective they are at reducing drone and rasp.

ATLP quads come in both resonated or non-resonated forms. I have the resonated version. However the resonator that came with the exhaust is really small (both diameter and length) so it didn't help much reducing drone and rasp because I already had Rv6 PCDs and Rv6 j-pipe.

What I did was simply cut out the factory ATLP resonator and had a bigger resonator welded in it's place.



This is what I bought for $100 on ebay and had it welded in place of the original ATLP resonator.

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/d...rtnumber=12640

I didn't take this picture but this looks like the best picture I can find to show the size difference of the factory ATLP resonator vs the Magnaflow 12640



The 12640 is a big boy. It's a 6" round resonator. I think a 4" round resonator will do the job for you and you won't have any problems with clearing bumps without scraping.

kingkong_dav

Ure really trying to pick on me eh?. He said rv6 exhaust isnt true dual. Maybe he shiuld fab up some piping n mass produce it. Iono eh.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Theoretically speaking the RV6 setup isn't a real "true" dual system because the J-pipe merges both precats into 1 chamber and than the rv6 system bolts up to the j-pipe that splits back out into 2 single pipes all the way back.

A true dual set up would eliminate that j-pipe and have individual piping running from each precat all the way back.

RV6 "true" dual set up below


vs a real true dual setup on G35

Brennan8

you will love it trust me i feels so much faster sounds amazing and personally like the oem jpipe better

Grand_hustle17

True duals are allowed to have n "h" or "x" section n still be considered a true dual... those are added to "true duals" to keep backpressure... different cars do it differently but they are still.... true duals... just with a h or x section merge

Grand_hustle17

Looks like it has a H section merge

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

I've got the ATLP V2 quads resonated and mine did not come with that small resonator, it came with a big magnaflow like in the above photos of the resonators, I'm not sure the # of the one they use now, but it's not a little one anymore if anyone is interested.

brianch

really? I have the same setup and I find it not loud enough :P

as for the comments about the RV6 not being a true dual.. A true dual would have to have an H pipe or an X Pipe or just 2 separate systems. The RV6 exhaust kind of has an xpipe... There is a connector there and its a does have some length to it.. I do think that the exhaust gases merge in that flange area and just split back up to the two channels.

It is up to you to determine what you consider a true x pipe.. But in most standards the RV6 setup does not resemble what most consider to be an xpipe due to the connector/flange.




I have debated cutting off the flanges and having someone weld a more true to x pipe design. But not sure if it'll be worth it.. Loosing the flange would also mean I don't have to scrape the flange anymore..

kingkong_dav

The oem jpipe shift the tq curve to high rpms. Rv6 shifts it to low rpms

Brennan8

Id disagree with that because on a dry day if I gun it off the line wheels barley break but with the oem jpipe I gun it the wheels are spinning 1st threw 2!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

odd.
Besides cold starts, my car with PCD's, rv6 jpipe and rv6 true duals is the quietest out of all my friends set ups.

Grand_hustle17

if its up to opinions on what a true dual is then there is no right or wrong... The RV6 is infact a true dual... Anybody can not like how a x section looks, but people do need to remember based on the exhaust tunnel under the car the x section may not look like one of a V8 muscle car... Still a X section though

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^its not a "true" dual. lol even richie says this...

Scottwax

I've got the XLR8 j-pipe on my car and gains were noticeable all throughout the rpm range. Traction control was fighting wheel spin to at least 30 mph, no traction control and it would spin hard enough to prematurely shift into 2nd.

Can't imagine there is that much difference between the stock Accord and stock TL j-pipe, is there?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

every one has different tires.
so, whats the point of having one person with shitty ass balding all seasons chirp 2nd in an automatic......

when I can chirp my SUPER GRIPPY summer tires during all three gears changes at will. because 6mt.


translation: at all you tire chirp-ers.

Grand_hustle17

Mmk... I think we all are gonna have to agree to disagree and i may be the "ignorant" one on this, but this is a true dual to me...