CAI + J-pipe + Catback = SLOWER!!!
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CAI + J-pipe + Catback = SLOWER!!!
I just installed an Injen CAI, J-pipe and Greddy Evo 2 on my 07 TL-S and my car feels slower then ever... I had never taken it to the track before the mods but I took it to a local 1/8th mile track and sadly ran a 9.875 which according to the 1/8 to 1/4 conversion charts is a mid 15 second quarter mile. I was wondering if anyone else feels a power loss with these mods?!?! The car doesnt seem to have the kick at full throttle that it once did and it doesnt seem to always downshift like it should?!?! A friend of mine told me a lot of newer cars have "learning computers" which in his words was that it takes time for the car to recognize the mods and configure for them. Anyone ran an 1/8th track with a stock TL-S AT? Any words of advice from others on why it may be slower?
Last edited by Lileasy123; 08-26-2008 at 09:45 PM.
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Make sure you know your navi code and radio code before you do that, it should be on the little card that came with your manual. If you dont know them, you can reset your ECU by pulling out the clock fuse, wait a few minutes, and then put it back in. That method will not require you to enter the codes. The fuse is located on the passenger side footwell.
#5
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also did you make sure that all your fluids were fine and that everything was bolted up properly?
#7
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So called "learning computers" (actually software) have been around a long time in cars. This is, by no means a newer car techology. Our ECUs operate on the speed density principle which is why there is no MAF. Yes, your ECU will take a little time to relearn and therefore reset/store the new fuel mappings an other parameters before it can take full advantage of your new setup. Give it some time or disconnect it for a bit, then report back your results.
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another observation since the mods is that my car heats up twice as fast as it did before... any ideas?
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reset the ecu!
Every dyno ever put up on any of the products you are now running shows gains in HP and Torque.
Has the weather been warmer since you put on these parts? Or maybe your TL is just so fast now its making you crazy...
Every dyno ever put up on any of the products you are now running shows gains in HP and Torque.
Has the weather been warmer since you put on these parts? Or maybe your TL is just so fast now its making you crazy...
#10
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If you haven't reset the ECU yet it will learn on it's own in a couple of hundred miles. Resetting the ECU after installing mods helps it learn quicker since it will recognize the better flow and adjust the A/F ratios and timing to try and accommodate the new mods. As far as your car heating up quicker check to make sure your coolant hoses are routed correctly and you have enough coolant. You may have lost some after the CAI install. Did you do the TB bypass mod while installing the CAI?
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did you turn vsa off... it alters shifts ALOT... between 2nd and 3rd my car brakes traction VSA OFF... with VSA on... it cuts throttle resulting in a drop of RPMS...
if you want to get the best time you need to launch almost perfect with this auto...
oh and by the way, I noticed that even in auto mode you can bang redline
if you want to get the best time you need to launch almost perfect with this auto...
oh and by the way, I noticed that even in auto mode you can bang redline
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I did lose some coolant but I didnt think It would be enough to make a difference... I will check that once I get back to my car. What is the TB bypass mod?
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did you turn vsa off... it alters shifts ALOT... between 2nd and 3rd my car brakes traction VSA OFF... with VSA on... it cuts throttle resulting in a drop of RPMS...
if you want to get the best time you need to launch almost perfect with this auto...
oh and by the way, I noticed that even in auto mode you can bang redline
if you want to get the best time you need to launch almost perfect with this auto...
oh and by the way, I noticed that even in auto mode you can bang redline
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Are the dynos immediatly after install or did they reset ecu and wait a few hundred miles? No weather has been relitively the same... I would have thought the going crazy thing might be true, but then I got the drag slips that show Im not going crazy!!
#15
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stock, our cars have coolant flowing in and out of the TB, which means there is hot coolant in the TB. So, some people remove the ins and outs and bypass the TB all together thereby creating a cooler TB. Not hard, you probably just need to buy some longer hose.
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tb bypass not recommended for temperatures bellow freezing
also the cai should have come with enough rubber braided hose to allow you to...
also eliminate the metal bracket that is plugged into the air hose, the metal bracket has (hot) coolant running through it directly next to this hose
also the cai should have come with enough rubber braided hose to allow you to...
also eliminate the metal bracket that is plugged into the air hose, the metal bracket has (hot) coolant running through it directly next to this hose
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tb bypass not recommended for temperatures bellow freezing
also the cai should have come with enough rubber braided hose to allow you to...
also eliminate the metal bracket that is plugged into the air hose, the metal bracket has (hot) coolant running through it directly next to this hose
also the cai should have come with enough rubber braided hose to allow you to...
also eliminate the metal bracket that is plugged into the air hose, the metal bracket has (hot) coolant running through it directly next to this hose
#18
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I have the aem intake, j-pipe,and race pipe. i dont have a exhaust yet,waiting for atlp base exhaust which mike is working on right now. after the intake and j-pipe i lost power. but im bottlenecking which caused that loss. i reset the ecu and helped alittle. then recently i got the race pipe and i disconnected the battery before the test pipe mod. seems to be responding better,but wont get the full effect until i get my cat-back.
#19
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I have the aem intake, j-pipe,and race pipe. i dont have a exhaust yet,waiting for atlp base exhaust which mike is working on right now. after the intake and j-pipe i lost power. but im bottlenecking which caused that loss. i reset the ecu and helped alittle. then recently i got the race pipe and i disconnected the battery before the test pipe mod. seems to be responding better,but wont get the full effect until i get my cat-back.
Same here. I too have CAI, procats, j-pipe and test pipe with the stock exhaust. My low to mid range power has increased a good bit, but bottle necking at the cat back. But no loss of power what so ever.
I think you need to recheck your install, because something is not right. I've never heard of anyone else with loss of power after mods.
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Well.... I am not able to put many miles on my car, I only work bout 5 miles away on the weekends and I walk to school during the week so I only go about 50-75 miles each week. I did reset the ECU and hopefully that works in time, I also Had the exhaust partially redone to remove the 2 resonators the previous owner of the catback installed and I installed the Eshift Pro 3rd cat (I have all 3 but I think I will gut the other 2 and sell as cat deletes). It feels a little faster then before but still not much... I am hoping as the weeks go by the power will slowly increase. I talked to a mechanic friend and he said that maybe the engine is not getting the backpressure that it needs?!?! I dont know, but I will definatly keep everyone posted.
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I just hope this is not a sarcastic remark towards my cars slowness, I guess I wouldnt believe it if I hadnt experienced it.... because yes, doing these mods has made my car slower, I know because I am the one who drives it... and running a 9.875 in the 1/8 is not a happy day for me, it should be low 9's. As he said before you there must be some other problem going on. I have recheck all work and topped off all fluids. I will be performing an oil change in a few minutes and driving the shit out of it monday to try and get my ECU all up to date...
#26
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I just hope this is not a sarcastic remark towards my cars slowness, I guess I wouldnt believe it if I hadnt experienced it.... because yes, doing these mods has made my car slower, I know because I am the one who drives it... and running a 9.875 in the 1/8 is not a happy day for me, it should be low 9's. As he said before you there must be some other problem going on. I have recheck all work and topped off all fluids. I will be performing an oil change in a few minutes and driving the shit out of it monday to try and get my ECU all up to date...
Lileasy I think DC3328 was being a bit sarcastic but sadly there is some truth to what he said. I have a feeling based on your mods that your mechanic friend may be right. The car could have lost some low to mid range torque because of the mods you put on and gained some top end. How does it feel on the top end? If you were to do a mid 15 sec 1/4 mile time it wouldn't be that far away from what others have done. The car magazines 1/4 mile times can often be misleading so take those with a grain of salt. There are lots of variables to consider when comparing track times driver error, wheel spin, 60ft time, etc...Again the weather plays a huge role in how the car performs and needs to be factored in when comparing mods.
The dyno only tells part of the story and without track times to balance the dyno #'s we will never really know what these parts are doing. I'm glad you went to the track and tested and had the guts to say your car feels slower. But you may have found the reality of adding mods to the TL without ECU tuning support...
#27
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I been reading this Acura forum for several years. And, this problem of "not enough backpressure" does happen to many TL modders. Having not enough back pressure is the first place that I would invesitigate.
#28
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the e-shift cats may be your problem, the J-pipe and Evo2 were designed with the stock and TL-S cats, which are much more denser than the e- shifts.
#29
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Lileasy I think DC3328 was being a bit sarcastic but sadly there is some truth to what he said. I have a feeling based on your mods that your mechanic friend may be right. The car could have lost some low to mid range torque because of the mods you put on and gained some top end. How does it feel on the top end? If you were to do a mid 15 sec 1/4 mile time it wouldn't be that far away from what others have done. The car magazines 1/4 mile times can often be misleading so take those with a grain of salt. There are lots of variables to consider when comparing track times driver error, wheel spin, 60ft time, etc...Again the weather plays a huge role in how the car performs and needs to be factored in when comparing mods.
The dyno only tells part of the story and without track times to balance the dyno #'s we will never really know what these parts are doing. I'm glad you went to the track and tested and had the guts to say your car feels slower. But you may have found the reality of adding mods to the TL without ECU tuning support...
The dyno only tells part of the story and without track times to balance the dyno #'s we will never really know what these parts are doing. I'm glad you went to the track and tested and had the guts to say your car feels slower. But you may have found the reality of adding mods to the TL without ECU tuning support...
#30
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Typically with too much exhaust flow and since you reported your car seems like it's "heating up twice as fast" means your probably running lean. It's probably not enough to cause any damage. Are you hearing any detonation? If you are than that's bad...make sure your using premium fuel too. I think a couple of members are trying out some generic ECU tuners to see if they can get them to work with our platform.
As Inaccurate and Csmeance have already eluded to, the problem is most likely with the exhaust combination you've chosen and it flowing too much air, at the wrong velocity, reducing power. The parts you've chosen were not tested and designed to go together, so I'd change some things around and see if it helps. Just out of curiosity, what made you choose this set up? Does another member have this set up that reported gains?
Maybe start with the stock B-pipe since that is the easiest to change. You won't have to mess with your expensive Greddy exhaust and the sound you like. Keep us posted and good luck!
As Inaccurate and Csmeance have already eluded to, the problem is most likely with the exhaust combination you've chosen and it flowing too much air, at the wrong velocity, reducing power. The parts you've chosen were not tested and designed to go together, so I'd change some things around and see if it helps. Just out of curiosity, what made you choose this set up? Does another member have this set up that reported gains?
Maybe start with the stock B-pipe since that is the easiest to change. You won't have to mess with your expensive Greddy exhaust and the sound you like. Keep us posted and good luck!
#32
sounds like the car is running too lean with all of the airflow mods. In the G35 world this problem was very very common. I dont think the stock ECU will ever let you totally retune to the new mods. to combat this on my G35 I did a technosquare ECU custom retune. WOW it made a huge difference. If there are no shops that do ecu retunes I would disconnect the battery and reset the stock ECU. should work
#33
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This is why you need to get a ATLP exhaust, J pipe and race pipe/high flow catalyst. Theyre designed to work together. Its kinda like crossdressing but with AM parts!! But there is no guarantee of course. I know its been said but reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery and make sure you have your navi and Sterio codes at hand.
#35
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This is why you need to get a ATLP exhaust, J pipe and race pipe/high flow catalyst. Theyre designed to work together. Its kinda like crossdressing but with AM parts!! But there is no guarantee of course. I know its been said but reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery and make sure you have your navi and Sterio codes at hand.
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