Buying a used Supercharger. What to look for?
09-14-2011, 12:28 PM
#1
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Buying a used Supercharger. What to look for?
Tonight I'm looking at a used S/C... besides parts and free spinning, wat else should I look for?
Ima bring the CT-E parts list to know what's missing and what not already. Anythin else to bring?
All help appreciated.
Thanks.
Ima bring the CT-E parts list to know what's missing and what not already. Anythin else to bring?
All help appreciated.
Thanks.
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Aretardedorange (09-14-2011)
09-14-2011, 06:46 PM
#6
the sc is pretty much bullet proof. just make sure all the supporting parts are there. Opel will know, being hes been running the blower for years now. Tell him to jump back on. would like to see what has changed.views and opinions etc. GL with your buy.. it get5s addicting....
09-14-2011, 10:11 PM
#7
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
I have the power!!!!!!!
Back from "Shopping"
Came home with the S/C. Opel says hello to everyone as well.. Thank god he came. He was dead on point with everything needed.. His advise/expertise was well needed.. I learned alot just sorting thru parts with him..
On to the pics:
Battery cables, breather tube, and an unknown hose
ACM
Autometer Boost gauge
Battery re locator box
Oil Filler bolt(red dot) - When buying used looking for oil leaks there
Cam Seal Mount with extra silicon.. The O ring will be replaced and everything cleaned up new
Loose bolts that came with this kit. Let me know where they go.
Dont know yet what this black bracket is for
Power steering hose adapter ( NEEDED PART!!!!)
Alternator/shaft mounting bracket (NEEDED PART)
OEM MAP SENSOR BLOCK PLATE ( NEEDED PART)
TRANSMISSION/S/C BODY MOUNTING BAR ( NEEDED PART)
spare hoses
Belt
Custom intake
Hole made for Meth
Throttlebody adapter ( NEEDED PART)
Spacer and hole for ???? Also Vacuum line for s/c
Radiator hose (NEEDED PART)
S/c (NEEDED PART!!!!!!!!) lol
Came home with the S/C. Opel says hello to everyone as well.. Thank god he came. He was dead on point with everything needed.. His advise/expertise was well needed.. I learned alot just sorting thru parts with him..
On to the pics:
Battery cables, breather tube, and an unknown hose
ACM
Autometer Boost gauge
Battery re locator box
Oil Filler bolt(red dot) - When buying used looking for oil leaks there
Cam Seal Mount with extra silicon.. The O ring will be replaced and everything cleaned up new
Loose bolts that came with this kit. Let me know where they go.
Dont know yet what this black bracket is for
Power steering hose adapter ( NEEDED PART!!!!)
Alternator/shaft mounting bracket (NEEDED PART)
OEM MAP SENSOR BLOCK PLATE ( NEEDED PART)
TRANSMISSION/S/C BODY MOUNTING BAR ( NEEDED PART)
spare hoses
Belt
Custom intake
Hole made for Meth
Throttlebody adapter ( NEEDED PART)
Spacer and hole for ???? Also Vacuum line for s/c
Radiator hose (NEEDED PART)
S/c (NEEDED PART!!!!!!!!) lol
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09-14-2011, 10:39 PM
#8
Ok, here we go, unknown hose is to vent the battery fumes from the sealed battery box.
The bracket looks like the piece that keeps the power steering hose away from the SC pulley, looks like it was painted. The unknown hole in the intake elbow is for the intake air sensor.
Looks good, welcome to the FI family.
The bracket looks like the piece that keeps the power steering hose away from the SC pulley, looks like it was painted. The unknown hole in the intake elbow is for the intake air sensor.
Looks good, welcome to the FI family.
09-14-2011, 10:43 PM
#9
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Ok, here we go, unknown hose is to vent the battery fumes from the sealed battery box.
The bracket looks like the piece that keeps the power steering hose away from the SC pulley, looks like it was painted. The unknown hole in the intake elbow is for the intake air sensor.
Looks good, welcome to the FI family.
The bracket looks like the piece that keeps the power steering hose away from the SC pulley, looks like it was painted. The unknown hole in the intake elbow is for the intake air sensor.
Looks good, welcome to the FI family.
I thought the clear tube was the breather... the unknown was the black hose.
Opel mentioned the bracket but i guess he didn't see it.
09-15-2011, 05:12 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
The long bolt is for the SC elbow mounting on the IM. The thickest part of the elbow requires that long of a bolt.
the next 2 silver bolts with 10mm heads are for mounting the SC shaft end onto the bracket which mounts on the alternator.
the next very small bolt with a + head is for the map block off plate on the throttle body since it will be relocated, and map sensor will go on the SC elbow before the IM reading charged air.
The next silver bolt on top (allen head) is for the power steering pump new fitting.
The next long 12mm head bolt is for SC elbow to IM again.
The next big washered bolt 14mm head i believe would be for the alternator bracket.
the last 4 identical bolts are, 2 for SC mount onto the camshaft end cap, and 2 others for SC elbow to IM.
you're missing a few bolts, but nothing you can't find.
one bolt and nut to mount bracket to tranny, and one more bracket to under the SC.
The throttle body onto the SC, you can use the studs and nuts from the IM relocating them to the SC housing.
Its a pretty clear picture once you put the SC on there..things will fall into place.
the next 2 silver bolts with 10mm heads are for mounting the SC shaft end onto the bracket which mounts on the alternator.
the next very small bolt with a + head is for the map block off plate on the throttle body since it will be relocated, and map sensor will go on the SC elbow before the IM reading charged air.
The next silver bolt on top (allen head) is for the power steering pump new fitting.
The next long 12mm head bolt is for SC elbow to IM again.
The next big washered bolt 14mm head i believe would be for the alternator bracket.
the last 4 identical bolts are, 2 for SC mount onto the camshaft end cap, and 2 others for SC elbow to IM.
you're missing a few bolts, but nothing you can't find.
one bolt and nut to mount bracket to tranny, and one more bracket to under the SC.
The throttle body onto the SC, you can use the studs and nuts from the IM relocating them to the SC housing.
Its a pretty clear picture once you put the SC on there..things will fall into place.
09-15-2011, 08:41 PM
#17
I should add that replacing the O-ring on the power steering pump fitting is a MUST. It's a $0.50 piece that could cause you nothing but headaches down the road. While you're at it, I'd pick up a few throttle body gaskets (3x) too.
That's the first time that I've seen someone glob that much sealant on the cam seal cover. I'd get it cleaned up and make sure there aren't any nicks in the metal. If not, I'm sure it's nothing a new O-ring wouldn't fix.
Like Opel said, you're missing a few bolts if that's all that you have, but they should be easy enough to source. When I picked up my used S/C kit, the guy that I bought it from had ordered some replacement parts directly from CT and they all came prepackaged as a bundle. I'm not sure what it cost to get them, but I wouldn't think it could be more than $50.
I don't see an FPR die in there anywhere. If you're really in need of one, I have a spare here that you could "rent". I'd recommend that you just leave it though and upgrade your injectors instead.
EDIT: The parts list here http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...-SCKit2005.pdf doesn't do you much good since they itemize EVERYTHING. Even bolts that come preinstalled in the blower. You should be able to get a good idea as to where everything goes though by looking through the installation instructions.
That's the first time that I've seen someone glob that much sealant on the cam seal cover. I'd get it cleaned up and make sure there aren't any nicks in the metal. If not, I'm sure it's nothing a new O-ring wouldn't fix.
Like Opel said, you're missing a few bolts if that's all that you have, but they should be easy enough to source. When I picked up my used S/C kit, the guy that I bought it from had ordered some replacement parts directly from CT and they all came prepackaged as a bundle. I'm not sure what it cost to get them, but I wouldn't think it could be more than $50.
I don't see an FPR die in there anywhere. If you're really in need of one, I have a spare here that you could "rent". I'd recommend that you just leave it though and upgrade your injectors instead.
EDIT: The parts list here http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...-SCKit2005.pdf doesn't do you much good since they itemize EVERYTHING. Even bolts that come preinstalled in the blower. You should be able to get a good idea as to where everything goes though by looking through the installation instructions.
Last edited by bmeyer; 09-15-2011 at 08:44 PM.
09-16-2011, 02:02 PM
#20
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
I should add that replacing the O-ring on the power steering pump fitting is a MUST. It's a $0.50 piece that could cause you nothing but headaches down the road. While you're at it, I'd pick up a few throttle body gaskets (3x) too.
That's the first time that I've seen someone glob that much sealant on the cam seal cover. I'd get it cleaned up and make sure there aren't any nicks in the metal. If not, I'm sure it's nothing a new O-ring wouldn't fix.
Like Opel said, you're missing a few bolts if that's all that you have, but they should be easy enough to source. When I picked up my used S/C kit, the guy that I bought it from had ordered some replacement parts directly from CT and they all came prepackaged as a bundle. I'm not sure what it cost to get them, but I wouldn't think it could be more than $50.
I don't see an FPR die in there anywhere. If you're really in need of one, I have a spare here that you could "rent". I'd recommend that you just leave it though and upgrade your injectors instead.
EDIT: The parts list here http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...-SCKit2005.pdf doesn't do you much good since they itemize EVERYTHING. Even bolts that come preinstalled in the blower. You should be able to get a good idea as to where everything goes though by looking through the installation instructions.
That's the first time that I've seen someone glob that much sealant on the cam seal cover. I'd get it cleaned up and make sure there aren't any nicks in the metal. If not, I'm sure it's nothing a new O-ring wouldn't fix.
Like Opel said, you're missing a few bolts if that's all that you have, but they should be easy enough to source. When I picked up my used S/C kit, the guy that I bought it from had ordered some replacement parts directly from CT and they all came prepackaged as a bundle. I'm not sure what it cost to get them, but I wouldn't think it could be more than $50.
I don't see an FPR die in there anywhere. If you're really in need of one, I have a spare here that you could "rent". I'd recommend that you just leave it though and upgrade your injectors instead.
EDIT: The parts list here http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...-SCKit2005.pdf doesn't do you much good since they itemize EVERYTHING. Even bolts that come preinstalled in the blower. You should be able to get a good idea as to where everything goes though by looking through the installation instructions.
The long bolt is for the SC elbow mounting on the IM. The thickest part of the elbow requires that long of a bolt.
the next 2 silver bolts with 10mm heads are for mounting the SC shaft end onto the bracket which mounts on the alternator.
the next very small bolt with a + head is for the map block off plate on the throttle body since it will be relocated, and map sensor will go on the SC elbow before the IM reading charged air.
The next silver bolt on top (allen head) is for the power steering pump new fitting.
The next long 12mm head bolt is for SC elbow to IM again.
The next big washered bolt 14mm head i believe would be for the alternator bracket.
the last 4 identical bolts are, 2 for SC mount onto the camshaft end cap, and 2 others for SC elbow to IM.
you're missing a few bolts, but nothing you can't find.
one bolt and nut to mount bracket to tranny, and one more bracket to under the SC.
The throttle body onto the SC, you can use the studs and nuts from the IM relocating them to the SC housing.
Its a pretty clear picture once you put the SC on there..things will fall into place.
the next 2 silver bolts with 10mm heads are for mounting the SC shaft end onto the bracket which mounts on the alternator.
the next very small bolt with a + head is for the map block off plate on the throttle body since it will be relocated, and map sensor will go on the SC elbow before the IM reading charged air.
The next silver bolt on top (allen head) is for the power steering pump new fitting.
The next long 12mm head bolt is for SC elbow to IM again.
The next big washered bolt 14mm head i believe would be for the alternator bracket.
the last 4 identical bolts are, 2 for SC mount onto the camshaft end cap, and 2 others for SC elbow to IM.
you're missing a few bolts, but nothing you can't find.
one bolt and nut to mount bracket to tranny, and one more bracket to under the SC.
The throttle body onto the SC, you can use the studs and nuts from the IM relocating them to the SC housing.
Its a pretty clear picture once you put the SC on there..things will fall into place.
Thanks again for coming out there with me.
09-26-2011, 10:40 PM
#24
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Alright, time to finish the "kit"
All chime in please.
1 Fuel-
Upgrading injectors and fuel delivery... JandR site down so i cant research their turbo fuel system ( not looking thru 98 pages of the turbo thread). RDX 410cc or RSX 310cc?? 255gpm Walbro Fuel pump correct?? What about the FPR since i'm missing the crush one that comes with the ct-e kit.
2. Spark plugs -
2 step colder NGK plugs seems to be the best choice.
3. Meth kit -
The kit i bought already has a predrilled hole for the meth kit. AEM or Snow??
4. AFR gauge-
AEM UEGO or Innovate... AEM only goes down to 10 so i think innovate which is 8-16.
5. Tuning - JandR Ecu/AEM FIC/ACM . $2000, 1000, free... The jandrecu with tuning and knock monitor will run around $2000. Most options and features.. Hardest to tune and learn how to tweak. and a big ass box. AEM FIC - 1000 tuned.. ummmm thats about it. and the ct-e ACM box that tricks the computer but does not give you anything to work with. Will i be limited with using the FIC?? should i just go for the JandR ECU and call it a day??
6. Missing Ct-E Parts
Reservoir tank - Need to order the small one from Ct-E.
Nuts and bolts - Need to go thru the installation manual to check whats missing.
All chime in please.
1 Fuel-
Upgrading injectors and fuel delivery... JandR site down so i cant research their turbo fuel system ( not looking thru 98 pages of the turbo thread). RDX 410cc or RSX 310cc?? 255gpm Walbro Fuel pump correct?? What about the FPR since i'm missing the crush one that comes with the ct-e kit.
2. Spark plugs -
2 step colder NGK plugs seems to be the best choice.
3. Meth kit -
The kit i bought already has a predrilled hole for the meth kit. AEM or Snow??
4. AFR gauge-
AEM UEGO or Innovate... AEM only goes down to 10 so i think innovate which is 8-16.
5. Tuning - JandR Ecu/AEM FIC/ACM . $2000, 1000, free... The jandrecu with tuning and knock monitor will run around $2000. Most options and features.. Hardest to tune and learn how to tweak. and a big ass box. AEM FIC - 1000 tuned.. ummmm thats about it. and the ct-e ACM box that tricks the computer but does not give you anything to work with. Will i be limited with using the FIC?? should i just go for the JandR ECU and call it a day??
6. Missing Ct-E Parts
Reservoir tank - Need to order the small one from Ct-E.
Nuts and bolts - Need to go thru the installation manual to check whats missing.
09-27-2011, 08:34 AM
#26
Get the RDX injectors. For 400 crank hp, they're even slightly undersized. The RSX injectors aren't actually enough for even 300 hp. You never ever ever ever want to cheap out on your fuel system. Always get something that can provide 10-15% more fuel than you need at all times. Some guys like to go even higher.
I'd also get the Walbro 255 fuel pump. It's something like $130. The only problem is that it requires quite a bit of cutting in order to fit in the fuel pump cage.
As far as the FPR die missing in action, don't even worry about it. With bigger injectors and fuel pump you won't need to bump up your fuel pressure.
One thing to mention about the J&R ECU vs. AEM F/IC comment is that one or the other really isn't more difficult to work with. You'll get a base map with the J&R ECU and from there all you'll really change is the fuel and ignition tables. They're just a big grid that looks similar to a spreadsheet. The F/IC has the same exact thing. The F/IC will come completely blank though and you'll need to setup some basic engine parameters before actually tuning with it. It's not difficult, but it is another step in the process.
I'd also get the Walbro 255 fuel pump. It's something like $130. The only problem is that it requires quite a bit of cutting in order to fit in the fuel pump cage.
As far as the FPR die missing in action, don't even worry about it. With bigger injectors and fuel pump you won't need to bump up your fuel pressure.
One thing to mention about the J&R ECU vs. AEM F/IC comment is that one or the other really isn't more difficult to work with. You'll get a base map with the J&R ECU and from there all you'll really change is the fuel and ignition tables. They're just a big grid that looks similar to a spreadsheet. The F/IC has the same exact thing. The F/IC will come completely blank though and you'll need to setup some basic engine parameters before actually tuning with it. It's not difficult, but it is another step in the process.
10-02-2011, 12:43 PM
#28
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
started looking at the installation manual with all parts shown and need to know what the hell this part in red is and why i dont have it. thanks
And this is where it goes.
And this is where it goes.
10-02-2011, 12:55 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
thats the negative cable for the batt.....since installing the SC, moves the batt lower into the new batt tray, the stock negative cable won't be long enough to reach the mounting point, so they give you a longer cable
10-02-2011, 01:19 PM
#31
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Dude, I think ima have to send you the discs. i been busy as shit and stopped driving the TL until the clutch gets put in. I was suppose to do it today but there was a death in my boys family so its scheduled for next sunday. PM me your address and i'll send you the discs tomorrow.
And thanks for the response.
How does it feel to be back on on Acurazine
. you been on alot more since we went to go look at this s/c lol.
10-02-2011, 01:38 PM
#34
I am on the same boat as the OP is. Just picked up CTSC and going to need a tune really soon. I ran 3 psi with no issues for two weeks and switched to 6psi and now i have to fix few thing upgrade injectors to RDX ones exhaust to 3" catback and meth for the future
10-02-2011, 02:41 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Dude, I think ima have to send you the discs. i been busy as shit and stopped driving the TL until the clutch gets put in. I was suppose to do it today but there was a death in my boys family so its scheduled for next sunday. PM me your address and i'll send you the discs tomorrow.
And thanks for the response.
How does it feel to be back on on Acurazine. you been on alot more since we went to go look at this s/c lol.
And thanks for the response.
How does it feel to be back on on Acurazine
. you been on alot more since we went to go look at this s/c lol.being on AZ? lol...what can I say man, when in this day and age, CAI is still the most pounded topic lol
If so, i highly recommend you get rid of the 6psi pulley, until you're ready to tune. Without at least meth, you're at high risk of blowing your motor
10-02-2011, 04:49 PM
#38
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Get the RDX injectors. For 400 crank hp, they're even slightly undersized. The RSX injectors aren't actually enough for even 300 hp. You never ever ever ever want to cheap out on your fuel system. Always get something that can provide 10-15% more fuel than you need at all times. Some guys like to go even higher.
I'd also get the Walbro 255 fuel pump. It's something like $130. The only problem is that it requires quite a bit of cutting in order to fit in the fuel pump cage.
As far as the FPR die missing in action, don't even worry about it. With bigger injectors and fuel pump you won't need to bump up your fuel pressure.
One thing to mention about the J&R ECU vs. AEM F/IC comment is that one or the other really isn't more difficult to work with. You'll get a base map with the J&R ECU and from there all you'll really change is the fuel and ignition tables. They're just a big grid that looks similar to a spreadsheet. The F/IC has the same exact thing. The F/IC will come completely blank though and you'll need to setup some basic engine parameters before actually tuning with it. It's not difficult, but it is another step in the process.
I'd also get the Walbro 255 fuel pump. It's something like $130. The only problem is that it requires quite a bit of cutting in order to fit in the fuel pump cage.
As far as the FPR die missing in action, don't even worry about it. With bigger injectors and fuel pump you won't need to bump up your fuel pressure.
One thing to mention about the J&R ECU vs. AEM F/IC comment is that one or the other really isn't more difficult to work with. You'll get a base map with the J&R ECU and from there all you'll really change is the fuel and ignition tables. They're just a big grid that looks similar to a spreadsheet. The F/IC has the same exact thing. The F/IC will come completely blank though and you'll need to setup some basic engine parameters before actually tuning with it. It's not difficult, but it is another step in the process.
quick questions...
1. The Walbro 255.
got a DIY??? the only one i saw was on by paul and it wasn't really a diy...
2. the rdx injectors...
do you know the modifications that need to be done to the clip to make them fit without buying the tc ones? All the threads are kinda of old already but no real updates.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716741
is the best DIY i seen so far
3. The ECU
did they ever fix the FIC issue with closed loop?
with JandR with knock , arent you able to monitor/control more things and just get a better tune than with the FIC? One can only read so much without having it in your hands and not knowing what any of it actually is. ( first FI vehicle )
10-02-2011, 05:04 PM
#39
What exhaust you gonna run ? Im doing 3" with 3" HFC
Not sure how different is 3g tl fuel pump but on my CL it was basicly plug and play. And i have walboro 255.
I'm gonna run emanage blue since i already have base map for it. But Paul told me that FIC is better for closed loop so i think they fixed it.
Btw i see you are local if you want to meet up sometime let me know. Which shop is gonna fo the tune for you ?
Good luck.
Not sure how different is 3g tl fuel pump but on my CL it was basicly plug and play. And i have walboro 255.
I'm gonna run emanage blue since i already have base map for it. But Paul told me that FIC is better for closed loop so i think they fixed it.
Btw i see you are local if you want to meet up sometime let me know. Which shop is gonna fo the tune for you ?
Good luck.
Last edited by StreetKA; 10-02-2011 at 05:09 PM.
10-02-2011, 05:39 PM
#40
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
What exhaust you gonna run ? Im doing 3" with 3" HFC
Not sure how different is 3g tl fuel pump but on my CL it was basicly plug and play. And i have walboro 255.
I'm gonna run emanage blue since i already have base map for it. But Paul told me that FIC is better for closed loop so i think they fixed it.
Btw i see you are local if you want to meet up sometime let me know. Which shop is gonna fo the tune for you ?
Good luck.
Not sure how different is 3g tl fuel pump but on my CL it was basicly plug and play. And i have walboro 255.
I'm gonna run emanage blue since i already have base map for it. But Paul told me that FIC is better for closed loop so i think they fixed it.
Btw i see you are local if you want to meet up sometime let me know. Which shop is gonna fo the tune for you ?
Good luck.
i've heard slight modification/cutting to fit the walbro 255 in it our TL but dont know how much.
for ecu, i think ima go jandr. Im trying to get as much as possible and as safe as possible.. i know more hp less reliable. but its going to be the same thing as a FIC with a seperate Knock Monitor and be $600 cheaper.. Ima go that route. from what bmeyer said, it might just be the fuel table difference and actually tuning it.. if thats just the case then we'll see.
i dunno who's tuning yet but it wont be until next spring. When you plan on doing yours?
Only place my car is going is a garage real soon.
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 10-02-2011 at 05:42 PM.