Bisimoto cam for j-series !!!!!!!
#2
Burning Brakes
Thsnks for sharing your findings had no idea bisimoto does cams j series pretty soon we" ll have so much performance parts out it will be hard deciding which route to go ,btw valve springs & retainers too .....
#3
-------Tim-------
Off Topic a bit, but Rodney are you running the type-s cams? I remember a thread you were posting in, and never saw the end of that until..............You started the TURBO Kit!! Thanks for all the R+D that you have put in to it. One day
Last edited by Slpr04UA6; 06-12-2010 at 06:16 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Unfortunately I didn't get around to it , I just went right to the turbo setup , however we are testing out a few almotor setup haven't gotten around to switching cams yet but these bisimoto cams I hope will yeild decent power gains like there dseries cam . Oursite will be up Tuesday and we've added a new part for almotor testing should for before and after will be done shortly...
#6
Three Wheelin'
From what I understand, these are "REGROUND" cams...which means, you send them your stock cams, they weld and fill the lobes enlarging them, then they grind them down to meet the specs and measurements desired (which would be bigger than stock form).
If this is done right, things should be ok, even though, overtime they will wear out...on the other hand, they can destruct your motor.
The theory is very simple...during the welding process, any air pockets in the weld will make the lobes prone to breaking off at a later time while in the motor. You can imagine what can can go wrong if such thing happens at 6000-7000 rpm (or even at idle for that matter). This has happened before, and still does.
Im not trying to be the one guy to discourage anyone from this. Im sure other ppl will chime in and provide more insight on the matter. But just throwing a few things out there, that might have to be considered.
While anyone would back off and not like the idea of this. Im still the type to take risks anyway. So dont take it as complete discouragement.
If this is done right, things should be ok, even though, overtime they will wear out...on the other hand, they can destruct your motor.
The theory is very simple...during the welding process, any air pockets in the weld will make the lobes prone to breaking off at a later time while in the motor. You can imagine what can can go wrong if such thing happens at 6000-7000 rpm (or even at idle for that matter). This has happened before, and still does.
Im not trying to be the one guy to discourage anyone from this. Im sure other ppl will chime in and provide more insight on the matter. But just throwing a few things out there, that might have to be considered.
While anyone would back off and not like the idea of this. Im still the type to take risks anyway. So dont take it as complete discouragement.
#7
Former Whyner
From what I understand, these are "REGROUND" cams...which means, you send them your stock cams, they weld and fill the lobes enlarging them, then they grind them down to meet the specs and measurements desired (which would be bigger than stock form).
If this is done right, things should be ok, even though, overtime they will wear out...on the other hand, they can destruct your motor.
The theory is very simple...during the welding process, any air pockets in the weld will make the lobes prone to breaking off at a later time while in the motor. You can imagine what can can go wrong if such thing happens at 6000-7000 rpm (or even at idle for that matter). This has happened before, and still does.
Im not trying to be the one guy to discourage anyone from this. Im sure other ppl will chime in and provide more insight on the matter. But just throwing a few things out there, that might have to be considered.
While anyone would back off and not like the idea of this. Im still the type to take risks anyway. So dont take it as complete discouragement.
If this is done right, things should be ok, even though, overtime they will wear out...on the other hand, they can destruct your motor.
The theory is very simple...during the welding process, any air pockets in the weld will make the lobes prone to breaking off at a later time while in the motor. You can imagine what can can go wrong if such thing happens at 6000-7000 rpm (or even at idle for that matter). This has happened before, and still does.
Im not trying to be the one guy to discourage anyone from this. Im sure other ppl will chime in and provide more insight on the matter. But just throwing a few things out there, that might have to be considered.
While anyone would back off and not like the idea of this. Im still the type to take risks anyway. So dont take it as complete discouragement.
not that i was considering for the price but thanks for the heads up on that info. I will pass on this def....now i feel better thanks Opel
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#8
Safety Car
For those not familiar with cam specs, that 252 deg duration on intake at 0.050" is A LOT.
The 252* at 0.050" is what I ran in my small block Chevy engine, solid lifter. It is about the max possible for an all-out daily driven street machine.
The 252* at 0.050" is what I ran in my small block Chevy engine, solid lifter. It is about the max possible for an all-out daily driven street machine.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Here's what the deal is...most of the TL crowd isn't the kind that would run any aggressive cams. And for the price of this cam, (not mentioning the fact that its a regrind of your stock cam) I can hardly see people investing in it, because honestly, $800 + labor for most people, won't be worth the gains.
The way to see some worthy gains is a very aggressive cam (expect a big loss of streetability, and a sound like blop blob blop blop blop), and like I said, most won't deal with that. How I know this? Simple!....
Just look at the number of exhaust threads. Discussions of what's loud and what's not loud. What happens when this pipe goes there and that pipe goes here. No this is too loud, no that's raspy.
I wan't a nice sounding exhaust but I don't want it to make noise!
My tires are too loud, this that, this that, it never ends...
I mean come on for god's sake...
Except for those few that have gotten their hands on the turbo, and whoever still has a SC, which they can get a nice use of a cam, complimenting FI.
#13
Team Owner
Many of the ones I've seen are reground stock cams but usually they're ground with a smaller base circle so no welding is required.
That is an absolutely HUGE cam for a small engine that has only .53L/cylinder. It's going to lope badly. Unfortunately they don't give the LSA so we aren't getting the whole picture nor do they provide stock cam specs to compare against.
Any Honda guys know how this will do since it's a vtec engine? Why not leave the stock "small" intake profile unchanged and have only the large one changed?? That leaves the exhaust to deal with still, but it should considerably help with the idle characteristics.
5at guys forget about it. You will lose so much low end that the car will probably be slower to 60mph.
This should be used in conjunction with stiffer valvesprings and a higher redline to truly take advantage.
This cam would probably give the biggest gains with the least drivability penalty in the larger J37 engines.
That is an absolutely HUGE cam for a small engine that has only .53L/cylinder. It's going to lope badly. Unfortunately they don't give the LSA so we aren't getting the whole picture nor do they provide stock cam specs to compare against.
Any Honda guys know how this will do since it's a vtec engine? Why not leave the stock "small" intake profile unchanged and have only the large one changed?? That leaves the exhaust to deal with still, but it should considerably help with the idle characteristics.
5at guys forget about it. You will lose so much low end that the car will probably be slower to 60mph.
This should be used in conjunction with stiffer valvesprings and a higher redline to truly take advantage.
This cam would probably give the biggest gains with the least drivability penalty in the larger J37 engines.
#15
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
opel, and ihc. i just got my j36 build done and have the tl-s cams right now, do u think there will be a big difference in power output from these bisimito cams then the tl-s cams??
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
#16
Three Wheelin'
I think the Bisimoto cams are great. He does really good work on SOHC/DOHC VTEC motors in the 4 cylinder world. I would buy this product if I had money for valvesprings and such to go with it.
#18
Team Owner
opel, and ihc. i just got my j36 build done and have the tl-s cams right now, do u think there will be a big difference in power output from these bisimito cams then the tl-s cams??
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
No doubt it would help in the power department especially with the 3.6L. If you want to get big numbers NA, this is what you have to do.
I just wish we had stock cam specs to compare to. My guess is it's going to still be making power to the revlimiter. If you use the stock revlimit your dyno will probably show it still gaining at 7K instead of the typical falloff around 6K. But again I'm going by theory, I think Opel and NAV6 probably have hands on experience with the J-series and cams.
Don't be scared when you do a compression check. Compression will read lower on the guage but it's normal, mechanical compression ratio is not actually lower.
It will make the car less detonation prone in the low rpm range which is another good thing
Keep in mind, if the idle is lopey, you will probably want to get rid of the stock cats as it will burn them up eventually. Once you can hear the lope, the hydrocarbons go through the roof so you won't pass smog. The good thing is NOx goes down.
I'm not sure how the TL's ECU will deal with the high idle hydrocarbons. What I've always done is disable the 02 sensors for idle only so the ECU does not try and compensate by leaning it out too much and have them come back online once it's above idle. Again, a few other members with experience with the J will be able to help more than me.
My personal opinion: I've always liked the sound of a lopey cam. Nothing sounds nastier lol. If you have exhaust and that cam, people will be staring and many people will second guess if they want to run you. I went to a lot of trouble on the GN to have it not lope. I have the biggest cam I can run with a stock like idle but that's because I used to make money with it, just something to think about if you think you may try and pass it off as stock like I do.
Sorry for the randomness of this. I was just writing things down as they came to me.
#19
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
^^ thanks for the input ihc. yeah i plan on going F/I, plus more and reliability is a huge concern for me. i mean tl-s cams still give me oem reliability that can't be beat, however if u think that these bisimito cams will yield more hp, and keep my higher stoke engine stronger, reliablity wise, i will definately consider this mod. yeah i love the lopey sound that my car has right now, reminds me of muscle car tone, i can't wait to hear the lopey sound that these bisimito cams have.
i just searched around really quick on the internet and so far i've heard nothing but bad news about regrounded cams, so should i go for custom made race cams ihc, opel??
in all, plan on getting it but will wait to hear what paul nva-av6 has to say since he is working on my f/I application.
last but not least who is getting these cams?? anyone??
i just searched around really quick on the internet and so far i've heard nothing but bad news about regrounded cams, so should i go for custom made race cams ihc, opel??
in all, plan on getting it but will wait to hear what paul nva-av6 has to say since he is working on my f/I application.
last but not least who is getting these cams?? anyone??
#20
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
this clip is an example of how my car sounds with tl-s cams, u can really hear a difference in the sound of the engine-->
i love the lopey idle
i love the lopey idle
#21
Three Wheelin'
opel, and ihc. i just got my j36 build done and have the tl-s cams right now, do u think there will be a big difference in power output from these bisimito cams then the tl-s cams??
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
i mean i like the near stock idle that the tl-s cams have yet they provide gains and streetablilty, but curious to hear ur(both of u) takes on possible performance even maybe expected hp gains from these bisimito cams.
as far as tls cams...remember, you have a 3.6... when tls came out, with their higher profile cams (very slight anyway), it wasn't the cams that made the additional power over what now are called base or 3.2 TL, they were there more to compliment the larger displacement. It was the larger displacement that made the bigger difference. But of course, with a cam to go with it, you'll support the displacement. Think of a large motor, with very small lift and duration...it will basically choke
So, there's ur case...ur 3.6 and having a tls cam is the way to go around ur displacement...now to get a little more, you can go more agressive. And to get even more crazy, FI and a nice cam, youll make plenty of power.
me personally, i would go this route:
Not too agressive on the cam..but i would rebuild the heads, with springs retainers, the works. Then increase the rev limiter possibly by another 1000 rpm, but somewhere between 500-1000 rpm on top of stock red line.
In this case, you'll wanna carefully spec the cam, so there's no crazy loss of low end, and you get the best support of high end...(remember we're increasing the rev limiter for a reason)
with this, at every shift, you end up in a better power band. Aside from the fact that you will already be making more power. And guess what...ur car's quicker now
i dont know, but i just love reving through the roof if i could lol
i just searched around really quick on the internet and so far i've heard nothing but bad news about regrounded cams, so should i go for custom made race cams ihc, opel??
in all, plan on getting it but will wait to hear what paul nva-av6 has to say since he is working on my f/I application.
last but not least who is getting these cams?? anyone??
Im not sure im getting anything as of now, but future will tell.
#22
Safety Car
Guys,
Don't be getting a boner for this cam. Like IHC said, it is too much for a street car. It is not plug-and-play.
This camshaft will require a final gear-ratio change... which is not possible for the TL. Without the gearing change, the car will be slower than the with stock cam.
Don't be getting a boner for this cam. Like IHC said, it is too much for a street car. It is not plug-and-play.
This camshaft will require a final gear-ratio change... which is not possible for the TL. Without the gearing change, the car will be slower than the with stock cam.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Guys,
Don't be getting a boner for this cam. Like IHC said, it is too much for a street car. It is not plug-and-play.
This camshaft will require a final gear-ratio change... which is not possible for the TL. Without the gearing change, the car will be slower than the with stock cam.
Don't be getting a boner for this cam. Like IHC said, it is too much for a street car. It is not plug-and-play.
This camshaft will require a final gear-ratio change... which is not possible for the TL. Without the gearing change, the car will be slower than the with stock cam.
#24
Team Owner
I've been impotent ever since I read this thread.
I know I'm always posting GN videos but I found this one with a destroked 3.3L V6 (roughly) with a big cam. The TL should sound very similar to this one with the cam in question assuming it has aftermarket exhaust. Just letting you know what you're in for sound wise. Fast forward to 1:26 because the fuel pump whine is drowning out the engine inside of the car.
Notice how it's super lopey at idle but as soon as the rpms are raised above 3,000rpm it sounds like a normal V6. The Tl will be the same but it should "clean up" around 1,500rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meBFoNQ1Y-g
I know I'm always posting GN videos but I found this one with a destroked 3.3L V6 (roughly) with a big cam. The TL should sound very similar to this one with the cam in question assuming it has aftermarket exhaust. Just letting you know what you're in for sound wise. Fast forward to 1:26 because the fuel pump whine is drowning out the engine inside of the car.
Notice how it's super lopey at idle but as soon as the rpms are raised above 3,000rpm it sounds like a normal V6. The Tl will be the same but it should "clean up" around 1,500rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meBFoNQ1Y-g
#25
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
IHC answered ur questions dead on..
as far as tls cams...remember, you have a 3.6... when tls came out, with their higher profile cams (very slight anyway), it wasn't the cams that made the additional power over what now are called base or 3.2 TL, they were there more to compliment the larger displacement. It was the larger displacement that made the bigger difference. But of course, with a cam to go with it, you'll support the displacement. Think of a large motor, with very small lift and duration...it will basically choke
So, there's ur case...ur 3.6 and having a tls cam is the way to go around ur displacement...now to get a little more, you can go more agressive. And to get even more crazy, FI and a nice cam, youll make plenty of power.
me personally, i would go this route:
Not too agressive on the cam..but i would rebuild the heads, with springs retainers, the works. Then increase the rev limiter possibly by another 1000 rpm, but somewhere between 500-1000 rpm on top of stock red line.
In this case, you'll wanna carefully spec the cam, so there's no crazy loss of low end, and you get the best support of high end...(remember we're increasing the rev limiter for a reason)
with this, at every shift, you end up in a better power band. Aside from the fact that you will already be making more power. And guess what...ur car's quicker now
i dont know, but i just love reving through the roof if i could lol
You should wait for Paul. I know for sure he will guide you towards the best thing. He's very knowledgeable on this, on theory and hands on.
Im not sure im getting anything as of now, but future will tell.
as far as tls cams...remember, you have a 3.6... when tls came out, with their higher profile cams (very slight anyway), it wasn't the cams that made the additional power over what now are called base or 3.2 TL, they were there more to compliment the larger displacement. It was the larger displacement that made the bigger difference. But of course, with a cam to go with it, you'll support the displacement. Think of a large motor, with very small lift and duration...it will basically choke
So, there's ur case...ur 3.6 and having a tls cam is the way to go around ur displacement...now to get a little more, you can go more agressive. And to get even more crazy, FI and a nice cam, youll make plenty of power.
me personally, i would go this route:
Not too agressive on the cam..but i would rebuild the heads, with springs retainers, the works. Then increase the rev limiter possibly by another 1000 rpm, but somewhere between 500-1000 rpm on top of stock red line.
In this case, you'll wanna carefully spec the cam, so there's no crazy loss of low end, and you get the best support of high end...(remember we're increasing the rev limiter for a reason)
with this, at every shift, you end up in a better power band. Aside from the fact that you will already be making more power. And guess what...ur car's quicker now
i dont know, but i just love reving through the roof if i could lol
You should wait for Paul. I know for sure he will guide you towards the best thing. He's very knowledgeable on this, on theory and hands on.
Im not sure im getting anything as of now, but future will tell.
yeah i got the kms full valvetrain upgrade(retainers, springs etc) as well. and will be talking to paul about raising the rev limiter within this year some time.
paul response to this cam was that re-ground cams are not the way to go at least for me cause reliablity is big concern of mine. so maybe down the road some custom cams who know... .
#26
Three Wheelin'
yeah i got the kms full valvetrain upgrade(retainers, springs etc) as well. and will be talking to paul about raising the rev limiter within this year some time.
paul response to this cam was that re-ground cams are not the way to go at least for me cause reliablity is big concern of mine. so maybe down the road some custom cams who know... .
paul response to this cam was that re-ground cams are not the way to go at least for me cause reliablity is big concern of mine. so maybe down the road some custom cams who know... .
#27
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Did anyone else notice that the cam posted was their Level 2 regrind, but the site also sells a level 1.
0.394" valve lift on the intake
0.395" valve lift on the exhaust
245 and 259 deg duration on intake and exhaust at 0.050"
Not quite as insane as their Level 2, maybe this one is more worth looking in to?
0.394" valve lift on the intake
0.395" valve lift on the exhaust
245 and 259 deg duration on intake and exhaust at 0.050"
Not quite as insane as their Level 2, maybe this one is more worth looking in to?
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