againstallodds1

Just came home and did two more runs. I am definatley pleased now, first run 5.53, and second run 5.72. Now I am in the fives I am hopeing for the low 14's in the quarter. Definately recommend the pulley.

nYmALu86

Nice #'s bro! Take it to the track and show us some nice numbers (hoping in the 14's ) because people on the forum have only been getting 15.3-15.6 with the AT Good Luck!

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

I also got a belt from NAPA ....the crossover NAPA part# is almost the same as listed above for Dayco.....NAPA Part# 060820 Micro-V.

Cost me $28.19...but the list was $41.76? Probably a base price listed for discount shock of something? Most likely could have gotten for the $25 listed above if I would have told them I worked for a local shop here in town and got wholesale cost?

flvol77

did you install it yourself? and if you did what was the torque setting for the bolt? Because I have seen 47 and 180?

SIK TL

Just had my pulley installed Sunday Everyday i have noticed considerable gains in torque mostly in the midrange, the RPMs zip through alot faster. Thanks to all before me that did this mod, I was convinced and now very pleased!!!

Black_05_TL_6SP

Just wanted to shed a little light on the Balancer. I used to have a 97 Prelude with the H22A4. Great car lots of Engine mods, including the full UR set up and 8lb flywheel. Back to the subject, Honda uses a internal harmonic balancer. It is attached to the the crank with a belt in the same area the timing belt is located. It was always a debate to if removing it would hurt the motor. I kept mine, but had replaced the belt with a gates belt. So changing the pully really does not effect it in that way. I had the pullies on for about 25000 miles and no real problems. I am interested in doing this mod, but not looking forward to removing the crank bolt( always a headache ). I cant say you will see 10-15 HP but it will help the motor rev quicker, and that is a good thing. Good luck with the projects, and if you get a chance post some dyno sheets!! As I do my mods I will dyno and eventually post the results.

mbwmn

i worked @ Honda dealers thru 1990 and was unaware of any of their (automobile) engines having internal harmonic dampers or crankshaft counterbalance devices. 1997 must be different?

in any case, i can find no such device(s) on the TL:
2004 TL crankshaft
2004 TL T-belt and camshafts
2004 TL crankcase/block

pls enlighten me. i had considered this mod, but typically run my engines well into the 200k mark. w/out removing the crank for balancing/blueprinting it ssems like too much of a risk...

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand the problem. If the engine is internally balanced, then how would the pulley (external part) have any affect?

The "balancer" part or harmonic balancer you talk about comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. This is not the case with Honda engines as these engines are internally balanced.

Black_05_TL_6SP

If you look at the picture of the crankshaft, you will notice what looks like a bicyle gear, that is normally where the balancer would be located. Most of new 4 and 6 cyl imports do not balance externally. The balancer is either in the motor, or they spend the time to balance them.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

So if the crank pulley does NOT produce any extra hp .. (or FREE up any extra hp, etc.) what is the advantage of an engine "revving" faster.

Phesto

I think it all about the loss in weight

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't generate more HP; it just frees up what you have. When you run a lighter weight pulley it takes less force to rotate it and there is less parasitic drag. Also, the pulley underdrives the accessories slightly so that there is more HP free'd up there also.

joeincs

When I installed my pulley I had to have a shop break the bolt free. The mecahnic showed me the rubber gasket that is built into the stock pulley and said this is to "absorb" any vibrations and is a critical component. He warned against putting the new pulley on.

I did the "pre-dyno" before the pulley and have not had time to go back and have it dyno'd again to see exactly what this does in the way of HP/Trq. I will say that it is a bit quicker now.

mbwmn

the stock crank pulley acts as a damper, not a balancer. it is important to understand this.

the "bicycle gear" device drives the timing belt. it is usally located directly behind the crank pulley and behind a plastic dust cover. if there is a "star-shaped" peice attached to the lower t-belt pulley it's usually the pulser/trigger (for the electronic ignition) or the drive gear for the oil pump (like on the TL?). the TSX uses crank gears to to drive counterbalancer and timimg chains.

these (TL) cranks are naturally balanced (to some extent) by virtue of their "V" configuration. internal balance shafts that are chain-driven off the crank shaft are typically not necessary in a "V" configuration because of the natural primary balance afforded by the "V" design. they (counterbalancers) can be readily found in some 4 cyl engines. these "inline" configs do not have the advantage of the natural primary balance the " V" config offers...hence you see the "internal balancers" Black_05_TL mentioned above on the TSX.
by the way, disconnecting these internal crankshaft counterbalancers on some motorcycles (like ZX11's and ZX12's) can offer significant horspower gains (w/ decreased internal engine component life and increased vibration).

Honda also seems to spend considerable care in design and construction to limit the amount of weight variation of there pistons and rods; much more time and car than most domestic US manufacturers. this contributes to superior "internal balance" of both their 4 and 6 cyl engines.

HOWEVER,
i'm off track here...
it is important to understand the difference between "balance" and "damping". we need to consider crankshaft damping, as that is the function of the stock crank pulley. almost all egines are (to some extent) internally balanced (by a balancing device or carefull quality control of rod/piston weights), but the crank is not internally damped. if the crank were removed and each section (journal) matched to individual pistons/rings and rods it held, then lightened, a damper may not be necessary. (this is what some mistakenly refer to as "blueprinting" an engine, but in reality is "balancing" it). this becomes cost-prohibitive and not particularly of great advantage to the average joe/soccer mom. (these guys do great crank work for motorcycles and smaller Asian 4 cyls:
Falicon Engineering)

unfortunatenately, we TL owners still need crankshaft dampers (in MY opinion, and more importantly Honda's opinion, and possibly PeterUber's opinion?).
here is a link to an explanation (begging to be read) he provided earlier in this or another thread:
another internet opinion about crank pulleys here
(pls take the time to read this and be prepared to discuss it should find it necessary to reply).

in summation:
don't be mislead by others who don't know the differences discussed here, or don't even care to investigate the facts. make an informed decision and be prepared to live w/ the results and possible repercussions.
if you are searching for cheap horsepower and don't keep your car very long then a crank pulley might be just the ticket for you, especially if mommy pays your repair bills...!!

but, if you run your vehicles into very high mileage (365k on my pickup, over 100k on one of my motorcycles) and repair them yourself as I do then you might consider that Acura (and almost all other Asian and European manufacturers) all use harmonic dampers on the end of their cranks for a reason. my limited very experience w/ domestic manufacturers indicates they use them also. if they ALL could save the money by manufacturing a solid piece instead of the multi-piece, rubber-sandwiched pulleys don't you think they would? if the trade-off of gaining a few horsepower vs. the possibility of decreased life of internal engine components is worth it, then order up and have someone install a UR pulley; they seem to be touted as the best. BUT, i'll be the first to tell you i told you so when you complain that you need a bottom-end rebuild "prematurely", and that Honda's product is sh#t...

ps: pls wave when you pass me w/ your crank pulley!

pps: i read somewhere on the internet that there is something called "parasitic drag" caused by the oil and water pumps on these engines. it said that if you just disconnect the oil and water pumps you'll gain horsepower. these cars don't really need these anyway: they are "internally lubricated" and have "internal cooling". anyone willing to test? i'll help w/ disonnecting them...then we can race to see if yours is faster...

ed99

I am interested in getting the pulleys but I heard it is not good if you are running an aft mkt system with over 1000watts. Is that true???

mbwmn

alternator will turn slower at idle...tho' i don't know if it's rated for 1000watts even at normal speed!

1000w / 12v = 83.3amps (roughly) just for the stereo alone. add this to the baseline power consumption of the vehicle @ idle w/ ac on (ac alone = 40+amps?) and you're prolly pushing the limits of the stock (120amp???) alternator w/ the stock pulley. a larger capacity alternator and/or a good capacitor might be called for, regardless of what you do w/ the pulley.

Pro Stock John

Underdrive pulleys free up HP... Short explanation.

Some post a pic of the stock one and the aftermarket one.

Good mod, makes sense, always has.

Fishsriz

how does the this mod affect warranty???

Manic

Just think of all the weight you could save! All those fluids, just being pushed around at no particular velocity/presssure! What a waste!

leeo

can anyone give me some insight on installing this the UR ??? I have had this one in my garage for a month or so now and i want to get it installed , i have some free time this weekend so i was hoping to get it done then.. Did anyone take pics during there install ?? Anything i should know before starting this project ??

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Other than the crank bolt is REALLY on there...nope! You do have to get some good leverage to get it to break loose....thats about it! And get a good quality belt from Napa or something!

Phesto

This pulley kit Part#02061100_ contains a crank pulley: underdrive stock belt layout (Ultra S) Part# 0206110.

Check that the part number matches the
number engraved on the back of the pulley.


Installation Instructions
1997-03 CL All / 1999-03 TL All / 2001-03 MDX / 1998-03 Accord V6 / 1999-03 Odyssey V6


• Alternator & A/C Belt: Accord, CL & TL: Use Gates K060441 (44 5/8” or 1135MM)
MDX: Use Gates K060445 (45.25” or 1150MM), alternate belt size use K060441 (44 5/8” or 1135MM).
Odyssey: Use Gates K060445 (45.25” or 1150MM)
• Power Steering Belt: Use Gates K040425 (43 1/8” or 1095MM)


Gates Brand belts
• Alternator & A/C Belt: Use the stock length belt.
• Power Steering Belt: Use Gates K040425 (43 1/8” or 1095MM


This is the model number on the Gates (recommended)belts...........hope it helps unless you have a 3g,sorry I didn't check

leeo

yea i already got a new belt so i think i should be good , i haven't looked but i know on my old integra to remove the pulley i had to unbolt the engine mount in order to get the belt off , i just wanted to make sure there wasn't any steps like that ??

ViNhXoNxAcuraTL

did anybody look at the part number on the UR pulley to see if it match the paper?i was just wondering ..the last 2 number i didnt see it on the pulley...its suppose to be 02 but then there was words on it.saying rev somthing then i see a 06 instead of a 02 like on the paper..anybody can help me?is it the right one or wrong one?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The last two digits are for the color.

01= Black
02= Polished
03= Red
04= Blue

However, UR no longer does colors. Polished is all that is available.

stavebomb

Does this void the warranty at all, and once its installed can the dealership tell that it is in?

Touge

Anyone take pics of the stock pulley and the new UR pulley ? If so post them up!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The dealer has to prove that the part you installed caused the problem. It's hard to see from the top of the engine bay but if they take off the wheel they should be able to see the bottom of it, esp if doing an oil change.

ViNhXoNxAcuraTL

i have the OEM pulley but not the UR pulley..the UR pulley is in my car right now soo i cant take picture of it..but anyways Joshua is a Great guy. i got my pulley the next day..LOL i cant beleive i got it that fast!!!!the UR pulley was soo shiney and light,also i got the Gates belt..i was gonna go with DAYCO belts or somthing like that at Pepboys.but i got scare soo i went to Napa and i got it from them for 26 bucks...Im SoOoOo happy with my pulley..i can feel the differents..the Rpm move up quicker and i feel like the power is there when it is needed .anyways here is the OEM pulley picture ...

Inaccurate

... 7 1/2 pounds !!!!!

Wow, from the looks of that clean oem pulley, you have nearly zero mileage on your car.

ViNhXoNxAcuraTL

thanks...it only have 8?? miles on it right now.i baby my TL like the way i baby my gf.

s0leheir

Got my UR pulley installed today.
The guys @ the shop couldnt get the GATES belt on so they left the stock belt on...does any1 know if im going to run into any problems or should i be fine?!

SilverStoneTTL

What's the lowest price we can get for the pulley?

s0leheir

Lowest price you can probably get is from Excelerate! Always get my stuff super quick sometimes even a day! Got all my mods from him!

varanelli

I'm surprised that the stock belt still fit, since the UR pulley has a smaller diameter than the stock pulley. My guess is that the stock belt would easily slip off the UR pulley. Any other thoughts?

SilverStoneTTL

So I'm thinking of getting this..but do we need to buy a new belt? How does that work? What belt do most people get (brand wise)?

s0leheir

Well when the guys compared the two (stock and Gates recommended) that there was a verrry minimal difference in size. He explained to me that there is a tensioner with one of the pulleys that adjusts to the belt to give it the right fit. I just wanted to ask on here to see if anyone could offer anymore insight. HOW LONG FOR EVERYRONE WITH THE UR PULLEY TO FEEL THE DIFFERENCE?
I've driven like 40 miles and im already noticing an improved throttle response and faster reving. It could also be psychological LOL

Paid 90 bucks for the install.



I hope the belt dosent fall off

FiveLiterCheater

How much whp/wtq is it supposed to add?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Did you get the stock size pulley or the underdrive pulley? What part # is on the box? Does it start with a 1 or a 0? The stock size pulley will use the stock size belt. The underdrive pulley will require the shorter belt. You will not have the proper tension on the belt with the stock size belt if you have the underdrive pulley and you will cause that belt to wear out quickly.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Yes you need a new belt. K060820. UR recommends Gates' belts. I can get you both the pulley and the belt. Just PM me.

And to JJaber, on many of the J series engines it gave about 8-10 hp.