So I have a 2006 TL 6MT with 135K miles, and it is pretty stock at the moment. XLR8 coils, swaybars, Type S rims, and some other BS exterior mods. I have shaved off A TON of weight (well, not as much as Inaccurate, but you get the point), and have realized that these cars with a the 6MT are pretty fun to drive, if you put it on a diet.

I have a J32A3 block, and J35A8 heads sitting in my garage. I have been researching like no other, and stumbled across this 3.6L stroker that is comprised of various Honda parts.

My question is really this: I am looking to do a mild build (XLR8 clutch, HFPC, J Pipe, 3.7 IM swap, larger TB, etc) and am trying to determine whether building a 3.6L makes more sense than dropping in a lower mileage J32A3 or J35. My end goal (in the next couple of years) is to get my hands on one of Gerzand's Rotrex kits, and at that point not daily this thing.

Does anyone have any input as to whether it makes more sense to build a 3.6L and then add a Rotrex down the road, or if swapping a lower mile J32 or J35 makes more sense, for what it will cost.

Any input is greatly appreciated! Just trying to get a better idea before I buy parts for this 3.6 stroker!

 

The 3.6 stroker engine will be high compression to make good power and the Rotex SC is going to want lower compression so you have to pick one. The 3.6 might be enough power for you and is a good start power wise but, you will be doing two builds if you are serious about getting into the Rotex game.

 

If you're looking for more power over your current 3.2L in the near term, I'd looking into buying a used and relatively low mileage (>80k miles) J35A6 engine, which is the only non-VCM (non cylinder deactivation equipped) 3.5L factory Honda or Acura motor which will pair up with a 3.0 or 3.2L J-series transmissions. This engine was found in the 2005 Honda Pilot and Honda Odyssey EX and LX only. From the factory it contains the same engine head castings and same camshafts as your current J32A3, and the entire heads/camshafts can be easily be swapped with the J35A8 heads that you say you have sitting around. This will give you similar naturally aspirated power to a J35A8 TL-S, albeit with 10:1 compression (which is even better for preventing cylinder knock when running forced induction) due to the smaller piston dome and without piston oil sprayers which the J35A8 has. To be fair though, your current J32A3 doesn't have those oil sprayers, either. Most older J-series motors do not.

Or, alternatively, you can buy the clutch case (half) of the transmission case (~$300 new + labor if not doing this transmission surgery yourself) and make your base model transmission compatible with a J35A8 TL-S or J35A8 RL motor for a full drop-in with no other modifications required.

Then, when the time comes and you're ready for one of my Rotrex supercharger kits, you can install it and make up to 475whp safely on stock internals.

 

I kind of realized I was asking two separate questions after I posted that. I think the 3.6L (depending on internals used) lands an 11.5:1 compression ratio, which is higher than it ought to be for FI. I guess you either decide to go with the 3.6L and call it an "all motor build," or you decide to lower the compression and proceed with FI. I am going for the latter. Not trying to build two separate motors, for two separate goals, so I appreciate you pointing that out!

I guess I am not so much focused on the near-term, as I am having the most ideal foundation to then later add FI. I have never added FI to a non-FI car; I have had an STI and a TT 535xi, but those were boosted from the factory. From the sounds of it, a decent foundation (while still using OEM parts) would be a J35A6 bottom end, with J35A8 heads, and J35A8 cams (or RL, I don't recall which one is better), and then to my stock 6MT. I would be happy with Type-S power from that setup.... until I can add one of your Rotrex kits. I just want to make sure I don't put the cart before the horse, in that I buy a SC, but don't have a motor setup for FI, nor the supporting mods to support.

 

What are you HP goals from a supercharger? Don't build a stroker an FI FWD car, all the torque down low is useless in my eyes and presents it's own sets of problems.

Get the bolt on mods you mentioned and get it tuned, enjoy them and then decide if you want to blaze down the supercharged path. I say keep what you have engine wise and run it as-is if it's a healthy motor, keep the power reasonable and you will be reward with a nice fast fun ride. When it (J32A3) finally kicks the bucket and swap in a J35A6 with ring gaps set for FI.

 

Good points 6spd-GERCO.

I also want to mention in regards to my post above that you can use a j35a7 which does have piston oil sprayers, but you should change the rear head (at a minimum) to a j32a3 head or BOTH to j35a8 heads (or another heads of your choice for that matter. Some folks have tried J37A4 heads, but that's a larger project). This is because the rear heads on a j35a7 it has a 1st generation VCM (cylinder deactivation system) from the factory and shouldn't be used for a non-VCM factory equipped car, as it just complicates the install.

 

Sorry to step in mid thread, but I have question in regards to the head usage and swap info.

I am building a J32A3 block, bored o/s 1MM using MDX Pistons, with the lower end of a 3.7 MDX

I am debating on what heads to use. Going back into my 05TL 6MT.

J37 heads or the stock J32 heads? Which is better?

Looking to build for torque and overall daily driver reliability, not a crazy build.

 

I had the idea of 350WHP with a supercharger, which is very doable with Andy's kit. I am looking to do a build because my current J32A3 is not healthy; I will be performing a compression test this weekend, but I think I have low compression in at least 1 cylinder. So, if that is the case, I guess my J32A3 has kicked the bucket, which means, time for bigger/better!

I have a set of J32A3 and J35A8 heads, so that is no problem. I will have to do some digging around, because I was seeing J35A6's for like 2.5K with 80K+ miles... I could build a brand new engine for near that. Is there any setup utilizing a J32A3 block, J35A8 heads, (only because I already have the block and heads) and some piston/crank combo that will net lower compression? Not trying to get information spoon fed, but you are a pioneer with J-Series engines, so there aren't too many others I would want to ask.

 

I don't think this is thread jacking, but if it is, feel free to delete it.

How much power can you get from just a 3.6 stroker kit (I'm not planning on doing it, just very curious as I've seen a bit about it)?

 

Check car-parts.com, there's more than enough 05'+ J35A6 Odyssey motors for around $500 with 100-200K

 

*car-part.com

 

Are you referring to an otherwise stock 3.6L Frankenstein motor? With modifications to the engine heads and/or the exhaust though there can be a major difference. 250 wheel with nothing done to the car, and up to 310 wheel with full bolt-ons, or even higher if you had some head work done, for instance.

 

You can use the J32A2 piston for 10.0:1 compression in a 3.2L rebuild and its quite a robust piston for being OEM. The same piston would be ~10.4:1 in a 3.6L stroker application due to the additional volume of air being compressed by the stroke.

 

The j32a3 cams are going to be too small for the 3.7L displacement, so if those are your only options (and you're not open to doing a J35a8 cam only swap or a full J35a8 head/cam swap), then just stick with the j37 heads and J37 cams.

 

Thanks for the info. I am open to any and all suggestions.

I ll look for a J35A8 head swap.

I took it from your earlier statement that the J37 heads wont work, as they have Cylinder management issues??

Any more advice?

 

Neither the J37A1 or the J37a4 engines are equipped with VCM cylinder management/deactivation. Therefore, there is no problem in using the J37A1 heads that you have sitting around. If you use the J37A1 heads you don't need to do anything special aside from using the J37A1 head gasket due to the 90mm bore. If you use the J35A8 heads, also remember use the J37A1 gaskets in that case as well.

As far as other advice, I don't know. Just ask? lol

 

Ok great.. Ill use the J37 head setup.

Any thoughts on Port/Polish vs stock>? Since this wont be setup for a turbo or S/C, Not sure I would get back that much ROI.
I have had that done in the past, and If I was racing or going for Max HP I would normally say yes, but for a strong daily driver I am thinking no.

Any thoughts>? Or better yet suggestions and guidelines that you have seen that work better than others?
Everyone advice and suggestions are welcome!

Dave

 

^ I know someone selling a j37a1 head for dirt cheap. its on the FB group.

 

For what your aiming for power wise, id follow the KISS method and stick with the OEM port. Aside from that, I don't think anyone on this earth, aside from a couple of race teams, has experience with results after porting the j37a1 tumble port heads. To get much more out of them naturally aspirated wise, a camshaft is probably required anyways. I've only got such experience with j32a3 and j35a8 heads.

 

camshaft would be the best way to go. But if you do get the head ported then you need to flow bench them before and after