The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, I recently bought the RV6 V3 J-Pipe and had the mid muffler deleted. The sound was very nice, but decided that I wanted a little more tone and purchased the Dynomax resonator to take the place of the stock one. It gave the car a nice new tone, but added a tiny bit of rasp along the way. It only really happens under harder acceleration leading into WOT and not under normal driving conditons.

So I know I have heard that the way to cure the rasp is to add another resonator. Has anyone here actually added a second resonator to their exhaust or specifically a second resonator to the same setup I have? If so, what one? I'm assuming just stick with the same resonator that replaced the stock one. What was the outcome, rasp gone or still there, how was the overall tone?

I know exhaust mods such as this are trial and error, but I was hoping my fellow members may have some insight before I purchase another resonator and have it put on.

Thanks

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/second-resonator-behind-j-pipe-get-rid-drone-866609/

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Crap, now that I looked at that link above, I remember reading it previously. I was at work when I posted this and I did use the Google "Acurazine" search technique and that thread didn't come up.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

Put the muffler back on.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

The mid muffler is gone. When I had the stage 1 mod done, the exhaust shop threw it away. What I am doing now is going with a larger dynomax max resonator that Rockstar recommended to me as this was the path he was going to take to cure his rasp before he got the RV6 True Dual exhaust.

So basically my plan of action is:
Put the new resonator in and take out the smaller dynomax that is on there now. If the rasp still exists, I am either going to have the smaller resonator put on in combination with the larger one or I am just going to have the stock resonator put back on because I already know with the stock resonator there will be zero rasp. But I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Ok I figured I would update this thread and I will also post in the other one as well, so in the future if someone searches this topic at least they can find the answer.

My Old Setup:
RV6 V3 J-pipe, mid muffler delete, dynomax resonator part # 24215 = and it had some rasp as well as some drone in 5th gear (AT) around 45-50 mph. The only way I can describe the sound is if you were to put a MT car in 5th gear doing 40mph. It was like a drone/bogging type sound with this resonator.

My New Setup:
RV6 V3 J-pipe, mid muffler delete, dynomax resonator part # 24235
Still has a nice tone to the exhaust, but the drone is gone in 5th gear as well as the rasp under normal and hard acceleration.

Here is a pic of all 3 resonators together: stock and the 2 dynomax

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

So, are you just running the dynomax 24235 as your only resonator? Also, how close to the flange where the J-pipe bolts together would you say it is?

I have a 14" bodied magnaflow resonator and its mounted 18" behind the J-pipe flange. Now I'm thinking I'll get rid of the magnaflow, and replace it with a longer resonator that's mounted closer to the J-pipe. That dynomax 24235 looks pretty nice.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Yes, I am only running the 24235 resonator. I'm not quite sure how far away from the j-pipe it is, but it is installed in the same general location as the stock resonator was. I didn't have it moved closer to the j-pipe or further back towards the mufflers. I knew I should have taken a picture of it installed.

connork53

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you save the money and just do that to begin with

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Because I wanted a bit more audible tone than what the RV6 V3 J-pipe, mid muffler delete, and stock resonator provided. I just got a little overzealous with the size resonator I chose. These things are trial and error, but it's all good now.

connork53

iTrader: (1)

what are you running now? how does it sound rasp/drone?

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

If you are referring to me? I have RV6 V3 PCD, V3-pipe, a 14" long 4'' diameter Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow mufflers that are almost identical in size to the stock ones. All the exaust tubing from the cat flange to the Magnaflow mufflers was custom made.

As far as rasp and drone. I really only get a rasp right at 3000 rpm under acceleration that goes away by 3500 rpm, and surprisingly I don't really don't any drone because I never cruise at high enough rpm. Because, the nearest Interstate to where I live is like 50 miles away.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

If your question was towards me this is my current setup:

RV6 V3 J-pipe, mid muffler delete, dynomax resonator part # 24235, stock pre-cats and mufflers. The resonator is 23.5" in total length, but the size of the actual resonating chamber is 18".

There is no drone or rasp with my setup and the car sounds very G35ish when accelerating. I am very happy with the end result and will not be messing with it anymore as I think it sounds perfect. I'm going to try to get some better videos of it soon.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

That's why I'm really considering the 24235 resonator because my magnaflow only has a 14" body length, or hell I was even thinking about the magnaflow 10435 with a 22'' body length.

It's also kind of weird before I put the PCD on I had a drone from like 2,400rpm to like 3,200rpm. Now I just have a rasp at 3,000rpm, and that's it. Only bad thing about taking out my current resonator to move a new one forward is I'll have to buy a piece of exhaust tube and 4 clamps, or just 2 clamps if I leave the back of the new resonator where it is now. Because I know the way the shops around here do things. I went to an alignment shop where the guy wanted to heat up my steering knuckles and bend them to get the camber better. I literally laughed in his face and asked "what do you cut springs on cars you lower too".

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

I assume based on your current setup that the exhaust is fairly loud. I think you should definitely go with a larger resonator. Even if you went with the 22" magnaflow one, I don't think that it will make the exhaust note decrease too much, but it should bring you closer to curing the rasp you're getting, if not resolve it totally. It only took the extra 4" of resonating chamber from the Dynomax 24235 resonator I put in to solve my 2 issues.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I got under there with the tape measure and I figured 1.5" back from the j-pipe flange (the amount I'd need for a butt joint clamp) back to where the exhaust splits at the y pipe is about 52"ish so even with the 28" total length of that magnaflow I'd still be able to fit a 14" total length resonator. Vibrant's 1790 model is 12" long total length, but I'd prefer not have to spend like $200 on resonators and clamps.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Yeah there is plenty of room from where the j-pipe ends and where the exhaust splits to the mufflers to add 2 resonators of decent size. Probably wouldn't fit 2 huge ones, but at least one big one and one smaller one, but I would try to just run one bigger resonator and see where that leaves you as far as rasp is concerned. I looked at the Vibrant ones too, but they are pretty damn expensive. I would either try the one I am using or go with the bigger magnaflow one you mentioned earlier. If either fail to cure the rasp, then add a smaller resonator to it. Even with buying 2 resonators (if needed) it's probably still cheaper than buying 1 Vibrant resonator.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'd prefer to have just one resonator under there, and you're right about those vibrant resonators being expensive especially for the one that's 12" in total length. I was also contemplating going with a 6" diameter bodied resonator, but with how low my car is I'm pretty sure I'd scrape the hell out of it.

So, I'll probably end up with the 18" bodied dynomax or the 22" bodied magnaflow in 4" diameter.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, but when I said I had 52" from the j-pipe flange to the y pipe it's actually 42". So, it'd be hard to get two resonators in there with 3" wide clamps.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

I'm not quite sure I follow why you are putting clamps on or what they are used for in this application? Any resonator you buy can just be welded into place. The 24235 I have installed is basically the same length as the stock one, it's just not as big in diameter. It also has a 2 1/4" inlet and outlet so it mates very well with the original piping the car comes with. If there is any gap after the resonator you have in place now is cut out, the exhaust shop will just weld a piece of pipe to one end of the new resonator so it reaches.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

The clamps are just butt clamps that are about 3.35" wide, and like I said earlier I know how the shops around here do things.
When a major local tire/alignment shop says they want to heat and bend your steering knuckle that shows what kind of work they consider acceptable. If I knew of a good shop I'd have them weld it, but I've seen some of the work some local shops have done and these welds looked like garbage.

These are the clamps I'm planning on using:

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

I took my car to a local shop that makes custom exhausts. I stay away from the "name brand" places like Meineke, etc. Any place that can make you a full custom exhaust should have someone there capable to do a simple welding job. Plus you don't even see the welds because it's under the car. So as long as they seal it properly and there are no leaks, I don't know why you would be worried about what the welds looked like in the end?

I looked at the clamps in the link. I guess if you use them you don't have to weld anything? If so, I'm not sure how well they would prevent leaks or a hissing sound if they aren't sealed properly.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

You're definitely right about the smaller local shops doing better welds, and like you said they're not visible anyway. I guess I'll call around and check some prices. Plus, who knows how well those clamps will seal the pipes together.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Yeah man, not that the clamps are that expensive, but I would hate for you to waste money on them to only have the pipes welded in the end if they don't work out. But yeah check out local custom shops if you have some in the area, they are your best bet for sure on getting the job done right.