I keep forgetting that! I'm old.

 

So are you retired? What do you do to keep yourself busy, besides helping the fine folks of AZ?

 

^
LOL, up after 10 EST after a long day.

Nice new shifter acquisition.

When you get those 'insane' shafts, post up some detailed pictures, as well. I'd like to see the QA on those babies. I wonder if they will be a viable option over rival OEM axles in reliability, outside the 500hp rating?

 

Acura TL-B5 Comptech made 304whp/280wtq at 2.2psi on E85!

Remember when I bought the 2G CT SC thinking it’ll fit the 3G?

 

 

Congrats! That's great for an automatic street cruiser. It goes to show how much of a difference a proper tune can deliver. Wifey now has some powa to compete.

Although, it may be prudent to think about investing in an AV6 trans. as a back-up?


Strangely enough, yes. I believe it all started when a couple of tweeking 'hot railer's' crossed your path, and the rest is history.

 

Found them on offer up! I wish I’d kept that 2g CT SC!

Not sure what a hot railer is, but I doubt it’s worth a google.

Going to skip Cars and Coffee this morning to take Drive and Coffee with Wifey.

This weekend plan:

TL CT

• Driver side front caliper(squealing)
• Electrical issue paddle shifter

TL Rotrex

• Install K-Tuner shifter

Accord Dx

• Rotate tires

 

I wish I snagged that CT SC for just the shaft if anything..

Love seeing the TL's with performance oriented builds. Gonna hurt some feelings

I'm gonna need to keep an eye out around here. Last thing I need is to get wacked by a TL in the V...

 

If I had a CTS-V, I wouldn’t want some bumpkin in an terminally depreciated TL to wack my car either. ^.~

 

When he's done with the V, there won't much too many out there that can whack him on a daily commute.
Nice numbers...must be a fun little car to drive.

 

Thanks bud!

It ran fine before, but now it doesn’t choke you out with exhaust gases when your at a stoplight. The whine is a higher decibel than before.

More like a police siren now, which may attract uninvited attention.

 

I was cruising around in the 1998 Accord today and spotted this Moroccan Red Pearl 04-06 with many Type-S pieces on it. It looked delish(besides the bird poop).

and to my chagrin, ‘‘twas an Auto TL

 

Was going to the Asian store with wifey for a 50lb bag of rice, when I spotted a TL that I had to dpuble
take after throwing the Accord in reverse.

He masked off the emblems with tape and spray painted that poor TL!!

 

After seven hours of aimless cruising, I figured I’d start this weekends car projects. Starting with rotating the dry rotted baldies on the Accord. I got it to 131k now!

 

There’s been an increasingly loud and Annoying screech on the driver front caliper as of late on the Comptech TL. I assumed it was perhaps a loose caliper bolt, or perhaps most likely a pebble that got in between the brake pad somehow.

After removing the caliper I was surprised to see my Bosch quiet rotors dug to the bone and he brake pads worn nearly flush.

Got 17k miles out of my EBC Yellow pads, though the car was driven quite hard. It’s been a year since they were installed.

I looked in the shed to see if my wife’s MDX pads would fit as replacements when I stumbled across a box of Stoptech sport front brake pads!!

After purchasing Centric rotors for $36.99 at Costless Auto parts I got the fronts
replaced!

About to drive to Mexico to brake them in..

 

No more EBC Yellows... both front and rear brakes are shot. At least fronts are fresh..

 

This is how the shifter looks preinstall.


Looks like Audi of Bellevue could use higher quality cleaners, as well as cars .Those fries have been there for years!


Had to remove the front seats to access the screws on the side of the center console.


Intake upgrade parts are trickling in!


I found solid copper wire for the paddle shifters on the Comptech TL. I’ll use the left over wires from the 550cc injector clips to solder to the solid copper. That was there are soft multiwire tips.

 

Working to get everything off without scratching any components(or breaking).

Got off the old shifter!

Looks good to me!

That aluminum cascade is sexy!

 

The crown jewel of the 3g Gem.

Vacuumed and ready for front seat reinstallation!


Yummy

 

Looks really good. Not looking forward to having to take all that out but I know the outcome will be worth it!

 

 

It’s not it bad, just be methodical. I didn’t have left over screws, but I recommend replacing each one. The rear of the console has wire attachments for light/aux/12v that need to be unattached. The two cubby holes has a 12v wire that needs to be unattached.

Use interior panel tools from harbor freight for the “aluminum/fake carbon fiber” strips starting carefully from the rear. Be careful not to bend/crack them. They are in place via pop outs.

Also. I recommend reinstalling the x4 rubber grommets and bolts that hold the shifter to the chassis. There are oem metal pieces that slide into the rubber grommets. Don’t reuse them as the shifter will have play. Just reinsert the grommets on the new shifter and bolt down. The grommets will be but a bit
though perfectly. Remove the excess rubber and it will look and feel cherry.

 

The shifter is flawless. It not shifts to the liking of the cars power level. Solid.

 

Glad to see your car actually runs and doesn't sit on blocks 24/7!

#🦀

 

I <3 crabman

 

Did they change the design of the Type S center console? I never had to pull seats to get it all out.

 

^
Its all interchangeable.

Not sure about pre-2006 though.

 

Pretty sure you can still do it with out pulling the seats. I don't recall pulling my seats for the short shifter install.

 

I was unable to remove the two sets of screws on either side without removing the seats. But that may have been due to a lack of tools.

When are you going to donate that unicorn to me? :P

 

I don't think 2004 had them...
2007 TL-S I never pulled the shifter assembly?
I know there were the two screws facing down under that little access door under the armrest

 

3.5” Parts are coming in! Might use the 4” aluminum ‘J’(not pictured) for the distal portion of the Rotrex TL-S.

 

Buying a smaller battery, lowering it down to reduce the center of gravity. Running aluminum piping like so.

 

Not a bad idea. I'll be relocating the entire battery to the trunk. I'm going to attempt and install an electric ac compressor where the battery is now

 

Summit has good prices on them. Are you going to get an enclosed box type of relocation kit? I have an install diy somewhere. In the thread..

 

Likely one without an enclosure as I may run a smaller light weight battery

 

If you do, guy a small dry cell battery, otherwise it won’t vent the gasses.

 

When you make a donation to my fundraiser.

 

I’m looking for a way to free up space on the driver side engine bay to make room for making a 4” to 3.5” cold air intake for the Rotrex.
I saw an opportunity to completely remove the battery and metal tray that holds it up. Replace the battery for a mini one and relocate it to the front left portion of the rear right passenger footwell with a battery relocation kit.

This will serve many purposes:

- Weight redistribution favoring weight balance

- lowest point of the car

- less weight in the front drivers side corner

- Bring the battery weight ascose to center point of car

- Reduce battery weigh by 12lbs+ from original size

 

After hand weighing the groups size 24 and 35 battery, it is better for to relocate the battery with the military grade dry cell battery currently in the car.

I ordered the relocation kit(arriving 22 July) without the wires due to having better quality 0/1 gauge wire from Outrageous Audio.

 

Gerzy Bear performance now has Rotrex kits that allow you to keep your A/C!!!

Hit em’ up!