MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Gain back your engine's lost power !



Drivetrain losses account for 15-25% of reduced power output. Energy is produced by the engine but is sapped by spinning accessories and other reciprocating parts of the engine. The flywheel is the largest mass on the engine that robs power. By installing a light-weight aluminum AASCO Motorsports flywheel, you can get much of that lost power back!

Gain in efficiency is the main benefit of installing an AASCO aluminum flywheel. Whether you are a street driver looking to reduce load on the enging and increase gas mileage, or a performance driver looking to increase your car's practical power output, AASCO flywheels fit the bill.

AASCO aluminum flywheels offer all the reduced weight possible and are strong enough to take all the abuse a street performance or road race driver can dish out. AASCO incorporates a replaceable friction surface that allows you to keep the same flywheel for the life of the car by simply replacing the steel friction disc when changing clutches.

• Low mass reduces drivetrain loss = MORE POWER
• Never replace or resurface your flywheel again!
• Lighter and longer lasting that chromoly.
• Tough enough for the rigors of GT3 racing.
• 100% DESIGNED AND MADE IN THE USA

Most other flywheels people use today are made of billet steel, while light and strong, these one-peice units are one-time use only. They cannot be resurfaced safely in most cases.

Don't confuse 100% American made AASCO flywheels with other overseas-manufactured units. AASCO wheels are made with ANSI-certified 6061-T6 aluminum. With something as important as your flywheel, don't trust one billet material over another unless it carries the proper certification that only ANSI can provide.


Check it out our time sensitive group buy on Heeltoeauto.com!
Heeltoe Automotive : Promotions : GROUP BUY for AASCO Motorsports Billet Flywheels, all Honda/Acura applications - HeelToe Automotive


If you like this item, you might also be interested in:
Unorthodox Racing produces aluminum pulley kits that compliement the crankshaft weight savings offered by AASCO flywheels.

Heeltoe offers a wide range of clutch kits through our direct dirstributor sources: ACT, Exedy, Clutchmasters, Cusco, Carbonetics, and more! Email us if you don't see it on heeltoeauto.com!

When you pull out your transmission, you might as well change your transmission fluid as well! Order Honda Genuine MTF fluid change kit to get everything you need.


Thanks for checking out our post!
-HeeltoeAuto.com

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Ok folks, after a few requests we have added some weights to the order page so you can see what the different wheels come in at!

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/product.php?productid=65853

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Marcus, what's your opinion on putting lightweight rotating masses on both the front and rear of the crank?

I know the crank pulley itself doesn't make the engagement touchy but I've read and been told that having the lightweight flywheel alone will result in easier stalling from a standstill and having a lightweight crank pulley will probably be even worse.

I'm going on suggestions/reading, personally going to experience the lightweight clutch assembly in the flesh very soon.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

The lighter flywheel has less mass (duh). The movement of a mass has momentum. Momentum is the property of a moving object to want to continue moving even when an outside force is applied. What a flywheel helps do is convert the momentum of its movement into force that helps move the car forward when you release the clutch.

By reducing the weight of the flywheel, there is less mass, and therefore less momentum behind it. When releasing the clutch, the flywheel is not helping to pull the car off the line and therefore you need to put a little more throttle input to take off smoothly than you normally do.

On a stock setup, sitting still and letting the clutch out slow without any gas will actually move the car forward. This is the momentum of the flywheel helping you. With a light flywheel, you are going to be considerably less able to do this. You will stall more until you get used to the new dynamics of your drivetrain...and then when you floor it you will be literally stunned at how fast the engine revs out!





Then there is the inevitable question about dampening harmonics which I addressed for someone else already so I might as well post here.

Over in the CL forum a member posted:

And I posted in response...

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I understand the theory but in real life, do you or know anyone running lightweight flywheel and crank pulley?

Also read tons of info and debates on the crank pulley so I am not concerned or want to drag that whole debate up again.

Sonnick

I have the UR crank pulley and so far it's working pretty well. I definitely noticed faster revving in 1st and slightly in 2nd.

I too am worried about running both the LW flywheel and UR crank pulley (stock sized). I have committed to selling it to a fellow member, but also getting a LW flywheel (along with Stage 2 clutch) which I am so excited for! Is it really ok to run both?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I sold mine as well and I am currently waiting for my new clutch to ship. It was my intent/requirement to replace the clutch soon since I went turbo.

I asked this in another thread and was told by Opel and others that we need to keep the mass at least at one end. I don't know if it was due to being too difficult to get going from a standstill or if there are mechanical/physical reasons like extra forces on the crank because of less mass to maintain inertia.

nfnsquared

^^^^fixed

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

yes, its always a good idea to keep the stock pulley with the use of a lwfw. i knew a member on v 6 P that used both on his turbo j30a4 (UR pulley with comptech lwfw, spec stage 4 clutch) yearrrs ago (05 i believe) and he reported some funny things happening with both installed. once he reinstalled the stock pulley, the problem was solved.

also, i couldnt imagine the drivability factor with both.. its already a little tricky driving around with the lwfw, since you do have to keep the revs up more than usual, so you dont stall it at start, but its something you get used to over time and becomes second nature..

taking even more off the rotating mass would put you deeper in the hole and DD'ing would become unpleasant especially in traffic :/

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

^lol

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

^ Didn't realize I was being funny.. Did I miss something? xD

btw, which lwfw u going with?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Check our post times, I was replying to the inertia correction.

I'm doing the J&R twin disc setup.

Thanks for the reply, that was what I was hearing as well. Just wanted to make sure.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I honestly don't see what the real problem would be though...I have never heard anything having come up. Who is doing it? Heck, I don't know. I am not going to hesitate installing both on my car and I am not really expecting there to be any issue.



Ok but, can we define "funny things?" This sort of ambiguity discredits a lot of testimonials for me (not just on this subject but on anything debatable).

The drivability really does not change a whole lot with a pulley install. It might change a little but the flywheel represents a huge change in mass in comparison to the crank pulley. As far as power and drivability change between the two I expect the flywheel is the icecream and the pulley is the cherry. In short, if you can deal with a flywheel, the pulley isn't going to put things over the top.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

i know right? his discription of "funny things" is bit vague, but he knew his car and something just didnt feel right. he best described it as a loud resonance throughout the powerband (almost like a pinging sound), which he noticed immediately after install. he also mentioned the car didnt feel as solid as before and much more unrefined. he immediately reinstalled the stock pulley and the symptoms were gone..

however, he was very clear that the drivability factor went down the tubes with both installed. it was rediculous how much he had to hold the revs up to get a decent start from a stand still. ok for a race track car only, but DD no way.

i say go for it marcus, but with my experience alone with just the lwfw, i can see how drivability would be a nightmare with the addition of the lwp /:

Sonnick

Don't worry Sean, I'm not keeping the pulley

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

A CL-S guy posted in another thread that he hadn't had any issue. And if you have not run a light pulley I think you might be over-estimating the impact is has on drivability. It is nowhere near as dramatic as the flywheel. Just sayin... I think you should try it. Come by and we'll slap one on and see what happens.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I see your point. I did not have any issues with starting out with the lw pulley.

We'll see what happens with the lwfw.

Dave_B

If you care about drag racing, this is NOT the mod for you. Running a lightweight flywheel completely wrecks moment of inertia and will make your car an absolute biatch to launch consistently. You'll need to up the revs to get back the lost stored energy. The car will be far more prone to bogging or all out spin. You can be assured you 60 foots will be slower with this mod. Heavier flywheels are more ideal for drag racing. Lightweight flywheels are more benefical for road racing where off the line acceleration isn't much of a concern. Road racers don't do this mod for power. They do it because it makes it easier to rev match downshifts which is extremely important.

A lightweight flywheel, like any lightened rotating assembly, is easier spin for the engine. However, due the basic laws of physics, the "gains" are diminshed on each successive upshift. The most pronounced difference will be in 1st and some of 2nd. After that, it's a wash. The problem with 1st will be bogging when trying to launch.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

I have a lightweight crank pulley. When can I come by and try out the lwfw?

Sonnick

I've heard this as well. I'm just gonna suck it up and see how I do. I think with practice, I can definitely get good at it. I've never really had "great" tires for grip. I live in NY and don't see myself (unless I had 2 sets of wheels) spending on summer tires AND winter tires. I'm gonna bite the bullet on this one. I came across a deal that I absolutely could not pass up with this Stg. 2/lwfw.

My method of launching prior was pretty poor. I never gave the car enough gas to get off the line quick. If you play Golf, when you putt, you have to give it enough to get there. I wasn't doing this. I believe my buddy's are gonna rent a track one day, so this should help me get a good feel for launching, even with the FW.

Dave, as always, your comments are appreciated Thanks for looking out!

Dave_B

I still wouldn't to it. Not one of my gearhead drag racing friends has seen any performance benefits from the lighter flywheels. They all got sold on the idea that reduced interial weight = quicker acceleration. They all got slower in 1/4 mile. My friend has a highly modded 6MT G sedan that was doing 13.5s@103mph on DRs. He wrecked his clutch so he figured he'd replace the 40lb dual mass flywheel with a single plate unit that weighed 28lbs. No matter how hard he tried, his 60 foots went from consistent high 1.8s/low 1.9s to high 1.9s/low 2.0s. The car went from 13.5s@103mph to 13.7s@102mph. He went back to stock within 6 months because of slower performance, the need to launch higher and more clutch abuse, and wrecked driveability.

callahan

I'm confused, So what is the price on the lightweight flywheel with the group buy? And how do I get added to the group buy?

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I think you might be going a bit fat with this here...usually, combining a lwfw with a clutch that is grabbier definitely makes things difficult. But going with a milder clutch, something full-face and not to aggressive, will allow all the slippage you need to drive smoothly. Yes, you'll need more revs but it is just a matter of rolling more gas on when taking off.

I would contend that anyone doing this mod does it for more power. It is true that in drag racing it is not something most people would want to do, but it still puts more power down. I don't really see many people here doing mean clutch-drops from stoplight to stoplight so the 60-ft time argument might be true but not necessarily applicable to most people.


Lol, if only it were that easy to just slap it on A pulley goes on in 5 min. The flywheel requires the trans to come out.

The info you need is in the link here: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pages.php?pageid=26

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Yeah...I replaced my rack & pinion last month.

phee

iTrader: (5)

how long will this group buy be going on? i dont get paid until the 15th

TLdream

iTrader: (4)

I think there is other factors missing here. On my TL-s motor, i went from a 2.4 60ft to a 1.8 60ft and a 1/4 mile time of 13.4 to 12.8 with a much lighter flywheel.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

We are taking orders on these through May, so there is still plenty of time to get in.

I think the big thing that people need to be aware of with a light flywheel is the change in driving style needed. It takes a little time to get used to, for sure. But, once you get acclimated the benefits are very rewarding.