25 hp
AZ Community Team
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 32,488
Likes: 7,771
From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Pre-cat deletes, j-pipe and exhaust.
AFAIK, that's about the ONLY way to get 25 WHP without FI.
Edit:
Except maybe losing weight. Losing weight is the equivelant of gaining HP.
AFAIK, that's about the ONLY way to get 25 WHP without FI.
Edit:
Except maybe losing weight. Losing weight is the equivelant of gaining HP.
Last edited by Bearcat94; Nov 11, 2012 at 07:42 PM.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8,002
Likes: 3,605
From: Boston
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 182
From: Minnesota
Some easy gains can be driver's mod, lose some wieght can make the car faster (if you're over weight). Also, kill the spares and other plastics in the car that'll also kill 500 lbs off the car.
I would think you need metal parts, more than plastics to get up to 500lbs.
^ There isn't too much steel that can be dropped. Front and rear bumpers is an option (35lbs total). Just don't rear end someone or you can say goodbye to your radiator. It makes you a more cautious driver though. 
Mid muffler is another option. About 9lbs. there. Lightweight pully is about 9lbs too. Lightweight wheels can be massive if taking into account dynamic weight.
Mid muffler is another option. About 9lbs. there. Lightweight pully is about 9lbs too. Lightweight wheels can be massive if taking into account dynamic weight.
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There are other ways to make power N/A if you have the means. 3.7 manifold/TB swap, cai, pulley, lighter wheels, Bisi cams, JnR ecu if you're very daring.
All motor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,530
Likes: 533
From: Long Island
Just port your runners. Apparently there have been reports of 45-50hp gains from the runners alone.
But seriously, intake/full exhaust is a great place to start if you're willing to spend the money.
But seriously, intake/full exhaust is a great place to start if you're willing to spend the money.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 492
From: Chicagoland
Here is a quick RV6 crash course, this is rough draft that will eventually be added to the webpage. You can get more details on the rv6 website www.rv6-p.com
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precats
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precats
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
^ There isn't too much steel that can be dropped. Front and rear bumpers is an option (35lbs total). Just don't rear end someone or you can say goodbye to your radiator. It makes you a more cautious driver though.
Mid muffler is another option. About 9lbs. there. Lightweight pully is about 9lbs too. Lightweight wheels can be massive if taking into account dynamic weight.
Mid muffler is another option. About 9lbs. there. Lightweight pully is about 9lbs too. Lightweight wheels can be massive if taking into account dynamic weight.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=61
You keep the bumper panel on. Otherwise it'd just look
