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That's what I still have. The one labeled V1.01 is the one you are asking for. I'm not sure whether stitching was me or I just found another version of that image somewhere.
You have Photoshop, right? If not then I probably can convert them to some different format. Just let me know which one.
Haha, I remember when the formatting of your thread became all jacked up. That was a sad day since it was so organized from the start with your "spoiler" buttons.
But yes, V1.01 is the one I was referencing. You don't happen to have this as a clean slate do you (without the icons, wording, Acura badge)? If not, don't sweat it.
I'm very old school and have always used Microsoft paint for simple graphics, diagrams, etc. I do not have Photoshop, but have started watching tutorial videos for GIMP editing software. It seems pretty cool. My goal is to change the the left-hand side (area where Acura logo sits) and make a carbon fiber pattern or diamond metal pattern as well as find a way to change the stitching from blue to either silver or white.
Every single item on that file is a separate layer, so you can move / remove them freely... assuming you got photoshop.
Gimp should be able to open that file - you just lose the ability to edit text layers.
Stitching looks kinda crap, but otherwise is that what you were looking for?
Oh.My.Gosh Yes! That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much; you are so kind
I had no idea that each item within the.psd file. was a separate layer. That makes it so much easier to edit. I can surely touch-up the stitching later. That is not a problem. What tool function tool did you use change the color of the stitching so easily in Photoshop? I'll have to find the GIMP equivalent , so that I can experiment with other things later.
Man, I just need to start messing with GIMP, so I can try out the diamond metal pattern as well.
I'll still be perfecting my tablet installation as much as I can outside of my car, but I had to put my TL into storage this weekend We received a few inches of snow last night in Michigan, so unfortunately I had to do this earlier than I wanted to. Usually, I like to wait until Thanksgiving weekend, if possible. Not the case this year...
Well the reason why stitching isn't perfect because:
I selected empty background with "Magic want tool" and selected vertical silver line with the same tool as well, then just did "Select inverse" and was left with only switching selected.
Then I went into "Layer style" and selected "Color overlay" with silver/gray color. That changes stitching to the color I want. Now to cheat a little bit and make it look better: in the same window I selected "Sating" and "Bevel & emboss" (with default settings) aka cheap way of making "fancy" letters. And that's just it.
Oh and easy way of inserting that carbon fiber is:
Select layer that has first vertical silver line in, use wand tool to select empty space between left edge and that line, use "Select inverse", and then move to layer with carbon background and simply delete.
I know it's been several weeks, but I wanted to let you know that I was able to clean up the file. I've been playing around with GIMP quite a bit and learned a lot of cool stuff.
Looks good. What are you using for navbar? Xposed or some custom zip patch?
Did you solve the issue with your halos?
For the modified Navbar, I created a folder and downloaded these three zip files (stock, Left, or Right) to my Nexus 7's internal Storage. Then I installed one of the options through TWRP Recovery through bootloader. https://www.reddit.com/r/timurskerne...r_marshmallow/
And no, I haven't solved the issue with my halos. I had to put my TL into storage about 3-4 weeks ago due to snowy weather. This will probably end up being a spring item (or maybe a Holiday project if I find some time).
I wanted to check-in with you about your HVAC and Radio display relocation. You mentioned that you did not bend the plexiglass sheet. The bottom of the OEM radio has a slight curvature, so I was wondering if you still have the gap as outlined in one of your "testing" images?
Additionally, the bottom cubby also has some curvature where it meets the front-most point of the shift trim. If the plexiglass is not bent, do you have any gaps in your final product?
I'm borrowing projectwidow 's photo from his Nexus write-up. On the right photo, it looks like there is about a half-inch gap, so I'm wondering if yours also looks similar?
There is a gap at the bottom and top of the plexiglass. You can't see it, but if you would leave a credit card resting against the glass, card would disappear.
The more I dive into this build, the more useful information I come across. I’m starting to think that I want to relocate Nexus 7 power and volume control buttons. With that said, I could use some help understanding the concept that you used.
How Tactile Switches Work
So, I’m probably stating the obvious, but I want to make sure…
It looks like you used a few small tactile switches, which you hide in your glove box. When you press down on the button caps, they are acting like levers, which compresses a small metallic plate within each tactile switch. The compressed plate then creates a temporary internal connection between two terminals while the button is being pressed. Once your finger comes off the button, the connection is gone? (All under the presumption that these are not toggle-type switches that either stay on or off when the button is pushed down).
I believe most tactile switches will have 4 prongs (2 prongs for each terminal), right? So, I’m assuming connectivity among the terminals can easily be determined with a Multi-meter.
How Nexus 7 Button Strip Works
From each button, one wire is extended to the battery wire balance connector. It looks like there is also a 4th black wire. I’m just not understanding how the button strip works.
In essence are the two terminals 1) Black wire location and 2) the three buttons? When a button is pressed, is there a temporary connection between these two terminals? If so, can you explain how you wired each of the button prongs on your external testing board?
Reason for Asking
*I cut a spare non-navi 04-06 bezel and it turned out pretty decent. However, I’m thinking that I’d like to buy a navi bezel and use several of the buttons for tablet control. I also have an aftermarket amp and iSimple, so I may also use other navi bezel buttons to install an amp kill switch and iSimple reset.
Black is a "common". Not sure whether it's ground or what, but connecting "black" wire to any of the buttons (other colors) lets tablet know that button was pressed.
There is couple spots to connect "common" wire. Around each button, place where I connected it, and small gold pad right next to where the button strip plugs into the tablet.
PCB buttons have 4 legs, but each pair of them is connected together.
No idea what is the reason, but it makes it simpler to connect all buttons to the same "common" wire. Basically you do something like:
Use small flexible wires, as terminals from that Nexus buttons strip can be pulled off easily.
Because many buttons are set up to have "common" you will need to take it into consideration when wiring Nexus buttons to navi buttons. Most likely connection will need to be cut to separate circle and zoom buttons from the rest.
If you will go with navi buttons, maybe get like a keyboard or game controller or something that will work with Nexus and can be wired to the leftover navi buttons. Maybe they can have actions assigned with the help of tasker? Just a thought - never tried that. But it would be sweet to press "Map" and have Google Maps launch, right?
Just test it before cutting controller open.
This all makes perfect sense. That last diagram you provided is key. I completely understand how this works now.
I'd probably de-solder the OEM buttons from the Navi buttons circuit board and place a strip of tape underneath the buttons to avoid metal on metal connections. Then I'd wire everything (like you showed in your diagram).
It's funny you mentioned the "Map" button, because I was wondering if there was a way to directly open Google Maps this way. I didn't think of a controller, but I'm not sure I have a spare USB port. I'd have to re-visit my setup as I think I already have 4 things connected. I haven't customized with Tasker yet, so I didn't realize you could assign actions, so specifically. That's something else to consider.
Honestly I wouldn't use navi bezel for power and volume buttons. You never really use them - they are for emergencies only. Like if battery dies or you need to enter recovery, etc..
In theory USB can be split more than 4 times. According to wiki up to 127 ports. But real life can be different, as speed will be reduced. It can cause problems, especially if using DAC.
There are 8 port USB hubs on Amazon and Nexus might be able to handle that - assuming you will provide additional power to the HUB.
I don't know how navi circuit board looks, but if part with buttons can be left and later attached securely to the bezel - without interfering with the tablet - I would leave it. This way you don't need to mess around with button alignment.
So, I actually bought a navi bezel, used my Dremel to get the Nexus 7 to fit, and disassembled the buttons today.
I found a very useful thread that listed the function of each pin/wire and how each button is wired. Do you think my diagram makes sense? I'd like to use the:
Menu button as my Home Button
Zoom Up button as my Volume Up Button
Zoom Down button as my Volume Down Button
The Pink wire is the common wire among all three buttons, so I figured this could be the 'common."
Stuff on the left seems unnecessarily confusing. Took a minute to decode what is going on.
Seems like pin #8 is common for buttons 1, 2, 5, 6, right?
#9 is common among 3, 4, 7, 10, 12 and #4 is common for 5, 7, 11?
There is some overlap going on. Test with multimeter. And if you try connecting the rest of buttons to anything else, you most likely will need to separate the 'common'.
It's been a while, but I'm slowly but surely making progress. The career and 10 month old have been all-encompassing it seems, but I'm trying to solder as much as I can in the meantime. Here are a few random pictures as I progress with relocating the LEDs and HVAC/Radio displays.
Anyways, I just purchased this timer delay relay (which looks very similar to yours) to assist with avoiding some of the cranking issues others have discussed. I think I figured out the wiring and jumper pin configurations, but I might have to ask your input down the road.
My current question to you is if a step down converter (12v to 5v) is required? I'm seeing mixed reviews and maybe only one is needed if you don't use a cigarette USB charger? With my current setup, once the vehicle is on, I am receiving anywhere between 1,000-1,500 mA of flowing current and 4-4.5V. I think this is okay, but wanted to pick your brain a little. Is the cigarette charger already acting like a step down? Any insight you can provide would be great!
Phone charger is basically a step-down converter. Just make sure you have a decent one or tablet might not charge too well. If your charger has two ports it might be a good idea to use both of them. In that case I would use two USB cables, plug them into the charger, and connect power and ground wires.
If you are seeing 4-4.5V on the USB line then that might be too low. In perfect world you want to see 5V or even 5.1V.
Not sure about the relay. If you need help let me know and I take a look. You want to use it to keep power during cranking, right?
Like I wrote I'm using arduino and couple relays but my setup right now is a bit different than back in the day. One relay didn't allow me to create "logic" like I wanted to.
Not sure if you should care about that too much, but my current setup allows basically for following logic:
- turn tablet power on as soon as accessory power detected, 1 sec later turn on OTG mode. I use separate relay for OTG as I'm not using Timur's kernel and that ROM and kerner requires enabling OTG like that
- if power on acc not detected for more than 3 sec, turn tablet off
- if power turned off, wait at least X seconds before tablet can be powered up again
- if reverse signal detected, power up both camera and easycap
- if reverse not detected for more than 3 sec power down camera and easycap
- wait at least X seconds before camera can be reenabled
With this logic tablet is never stuck in some weird self-powered mode where it thinks that it's charging even when it's not (liked to happen when turning the key on / off too quick). And camera works every time, and it's not disabled when doing quick reverse -> drive -> reverse turns / parking / etc.
So, I was basing my readings from the applications Ampere and Ampere Meter. As you suggested, I tried splicing two Anker micro USB cables together inserted them into both sockets.Not to my surprise, the readings were the same. I thought I read into this issue when I bought my car charger. I thought I read somewhere that there wasn't a power discrepancy between the two ports if both were in use simultaneously. Anyways, I pulled out my multimeter tool and decided to measured the voltage again instead of using the apps.
For reference, I'm using the following products (high quality in my opinion)
Using my multimeter, I measured exactly 5.11 volts at each USB port, within the Micro USB cable itself, and also at the male end of the micro USB cable (part that connects to Nexus 7 port).
*I have two Nexus 7 tablets (one old and one that I found brand new out of the box). I must have hit some good spikes earlier, but the old Nexus 7 tablet is pulling 1,000-1,100 mA of flowing current and 3.9-4.0V while the newer Nexus 7 tablet is only drawing 900-1,000mA of flowing current and 3.7-3.9V. I'm confused. Does the battery restrict incoming current in a way that I shouldn't rely on the application's readings? It seems that my hardwired connections are actually pretty solid. Also it seems concerning that the newer tablet is consistently reading lower numbers. I apologize if these are ridiculous questions. I'm a CPA, not an electrician
Additionally, the only reason that I would use the timing relay would be to simply delay the startup of my tablet by maybe 3 seconds to avoid any abnormal power surges/shorts during cranking. Bad idea?
PS - If this relay ends up working, then maybe I can use another one on my halo rings so I don't experience that dumb hyperflash as soon as acc is detected.
Anker seems to be a decent company. I use couple of their things and have no complains. If you measure 5.1V at USB you are good. I've actually used their charger for my nexus install for a long time.
Ampere might not be very accurate as it depends on the info given to it by the tablet's hardware. Also it takes under consideration how much current is used by tablet, so depending on load and screen brightness Ampere's reading will change. If you see around 1A of charging then that's good. If Timur will sleep nicely battery will stay above 90% anyways. 3.9-4V is the nexus battery voltage.
The biggest issue with charging that I got was during the winter and summer. If it's too hot or too cold tablet won't charge, and sometimes 20 min trip wasn't enough to heat it up / cool it down enough to charge any meaningful amount. And if it gets too hot it will shut down.
I bought my tablet used and some time ago it's battery failed (barely hold any charge) so I'm running without battery, but that puts additional 0.04A key-off draw on my car's battery and requires some extra capacitors so tablet won't fail during cranking.
I wouldn't worry about power surges during cranking. Phone charger should be smart enough to be able to smooth everything out. Especially if you are running nexus with its battery still inside.
However, delaying the power is not a bad idea. Like I wrote, without the delays tablet was sometimes getting stuck - seems like it doesn't like to get power disabled for short amount of time (when key was ON, but then you decided to start the engine).
If that relay doesn't cycle when powered up (like the one you tried before) then it should work for the halos.
Thanks for the informative reply, regarding Ampere. I had a hunch, but wasn't quite sure.
I'm hoping that my battery will last a while, given that the Nexus 7 is actually brand new (open box) and I no longer drive my TL during the winter.
I think I'm still going to install the power delay since I have it in my possession already. We shall see how that goes, but I want to do everything I can to avoid any issues with the tablet. Here's to hoping there aren't any cycling issues lol.
11-10-2019, 09:07 AM
We received a few inches of snow last night in Michigan, so unfortunately I had to do this earlier than I wanted to. Usually, I like to wait until Thanksgiving weekend, if possible. Not the case this year...
