#include <avr/sleep.h>

/*

Version 1.0
by peter6, Acura Discussion Forums For All Models and Years,

It's simple program to delay the tablet from getting power at the second time.
By default it uses pin #12 for output and pin #2 for input.

Share as you want, just leave my name at the top.
One part of the script (sleep function to be precise) is taken from playground.arduino.cc.

*/

int relayPin = 12; //pin used for signaling the relay to send power to the tablet
int sensePin = 2; //pin used for detecting the power from the car

bool delayEnabled = false; //bool for delaying second power-up
int firstDelay = 100; //amount of ms to delay before sensing and powering up tablet for the first time
int secondDelay = 3000; //(...) for the second time
int secondDelayCounter = 0;//used to reset delayEnabled if there's no power for some time
int sleepDelay = 30000; //amount of ms before going to sleep
int sleepDelayCounter = 0;//used to keep track of time


//will execute at the wakeup, I'm leaving it blank
void atWakeup() {

}

//puts arduino to sleep to save the battery, "borrowed" from playground.arduino.cc
void sleep() {
//blink red LED, used only for test, you might want to remove it
for (int i = 0; i < 5; i ++) {
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
delay(100);
}




set_sleep_mode(SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN); // sleep mode is set here
sleep_enable(); //"enables the sleep bit in the mcucr register"

// use interrupt 0 (pin 2) and run function
// wakeUpNow when pin 2 gets HIGH
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(2), atWakeup, HIGH);

// here the device is actually put to sleep!!
// THE PROGRAM CONTINUES FROM HERE AFTER WAKING UP
sleep_mode();

// first thing after waking from sleep:
// disable sleep...
sleep_disable();

// disables interrupt on pin 2
detachInterrupt(0);
}


//standard arduino function, performed once at the startup
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(sensePin, INPUT); //will be used for input from power

Serial.begin(9600);

attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(2), atWakeup, HIGH);
}



//sets relayPin to high and turns on LED
void powerUp() {
digitalWrite(relayPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);
}
//sets relayPin to low and turns off LED
void powerDown() {
digitalWrite(relayPin, LOW);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
}

//simpler version for checking if there is power at sensePin
bool isPower() {
if (digitalRead(sensePin) == HIGH) return true;

return false;
}


//standard arduino function, will complete all the time
void loop() {


//check if there's power
if (isPower()) {
//first thing : reset sleep counter
sleepDelayCounter = 0;

//if it's second power-up, delay it for couple seconds
if (delayEnabled) {
delay(secondDelay);
}
//if it's first power-up
else {
delay(firstDelay);
}

//check if there's power again
if (isPower) {
//finally power up the relay
powerUp();

//do a loop while relay is powered to prevent the rest of the function from executing
while (isPower()) {
delay(1);//wait some time before rechecking
}

//assume that there's no power anymore :
powerDown();

//set second delay bool
delayEnabled = true;
}

}

//if there's no power count down to reset delayEnabled bool
else {
//if delayEnabled is set
if (delayEnabled) {

//wait around 10 seconds before resetting it :
if (secondDelayCounter < 10000) {
secondDelayCounter += 1;
delay(1);//wait 1ms
}
//if enought time has passed :
else {
secondDelayCounter = 0; //reset counter
delayEnabled = false; //reset power-up counter
}
}

//that executes when the board is not doing anything
else {
//is it the time to go to sleep ?
if (sleepDelayCounter >= sleepDelay) {
sleep();
}
//if not, then continue counting...
else {
sleepDelayCounter += 1;
}
}

}

delay(1); //wait 1ms before doing the whole loop again
}

Hi. Welcome in “Yet another Nexus Install” thread. I understand there are many other threads like this and they might be more descriptive and easier to follow, but I believe my approach is a little bit different. I hope this post will be useful for somebody.

So what are those differences ? Mostly because it’s 2007-2008 non-navi TL specific, and I decided to keep radio and climate displays. I will also describe only those differences. Why? Because there are at least three good threads. Also I’m lazy. Just want to show off hah.

I just finished it (02/15/2017, 7:13pm) so I might do some changes in the near future – mostly to the tablet’s software. I will try to edit this thread. I will try to read my work, but as you might tell English is not my first language. Sorry for all weird sentences and words!

So first of all big thanks to couple guys who gave me ideas. It would never happen without you. Those are the “main” guys.

Projectwidow – idea for relocation. I might have executed it differently but plexiglass with tint is his. Thanks !
sockr1 – I had so many questions… His thread is great. Thanks !
ADay2Long – I used his thread for the list of material I might need. “His” wallpaper for the tablet was really nice. Again list of materials.
Some guy who posted service manual for my TL – helpful with disassembling interior and radio wiring.
Aaron– for the kernel I’m using
Some guy who created CM13 for the nexus
Authors of the apps I’m using
Factory Car Stereo Repair youtube channel – video for disassembling the radio


I’m going to divide this thread by order that I followed for my installation. Hopefully it will be clear enough.


Part I : Nexus 7
Main parts list :
- Nexus 7, second generation, 16GB – look on ebay, for around ~$100. My was for $60 – broken USB port, but who needs it anyway?
- Wires – you might need OTG, and couple usb cables. I recycled whatever I had
- Screen protector, matte to reduce glare in sun - ~$8 on Amazon. I used “Tech Armor Anti-Glare/Anti-Fingerprint Google Nexus 7 FHD (2013)”.
- Bezel from ’04-’06 model. Ebay. I got mine for $40. Look for “#39050-SEP-A0”. That is its part number.
- FiiO E10K – most expensive thing on my list, $76. But totally worth it, even when my car has aux port
- USB HUB - I went with "AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub"

At this point you want to put one of the screen protectors on. Keep screen nice, and don’t worry too much about dirt and bubbles.

My tablet’s USB port was broken. So I decided to open it up and solder wires directly into the board. It has couple advantages, including stronger connection and less bezel-cutting. But tablet will look less nicely and you are risking breaking it. Look online how to disassemble it if you want to follow my lead.



Photo shows “old” soldering points. Use “new” pointed with arrows. Second “ground” or “id” is for identification. Google for USB ID if you want to know more, but basically short it with ground to force tablet in OTG mode. All OTG cables are doing it.

I’m extending all 5 usb wires, this way I can flash new rom without disassembling whole dash. I will hide them behind glove box.

I’m right there to it might be good idea to “extend” physical buttons if system or battery would take a crap on me. They are going to the glove box too.



I did cut out some of tablet’s back to make room for the wires. I’m using “Battery Wire Balance Connectors”. That’s how my tablet looked like after that step :




Time to cut out the ‘04-’06 bezel. Remove plastic glass and all the buttons/displays. Look for info in other threads. Procedure here for all 3rd gen is the same. One small hint tho – use something like dremel to cut out plastic from the inside, but take your time with a knife to cut through plastic on the outside (parts that will be visible). Photo above should give you an idea how tablet should fit in there.



Make sure the edges are nice and tablet is lying flat, like :




PS. That scratch was there before ! Edges won’t be perfect. I polished it later. Can’t really see it when it’s in the car.

Now my tablet is charging and turning on. I guess the risk of buying “dead with broken usb port” was worth it.



So there’s software configuration :

- Rom : Cyanogenmod 13.1, based on Marshmallow. Really fast and stable. Much faster than stock. Enable root in developer settings
- Kernel : ElementalX in version 5.16-cm. I tried newer, 5.18 and OTG was bugged. 5.16 works great. You will also want to spend couple bucks for their app “EX Kernel Manager”
- For the background I’m using modified ADAy2Long background. Image and link to PSD under this list
- Tasker and “Secure Settings”
- Xposed – nice and powerfull. Root is only the first step in Android adventure
- “Deep Sleep Battery Saver” app
- GMD Gestures app
- AutoBright app
- AmazingText Free app
- Nova Lanucher – change grid size to 12x12 or something like that, the bigger the better. I will allow you to place widgets more precisely.


Zippyshare.com - Acura TL - Nexus Background.psd
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Background.psd


Why ElementalX and CM13.1 ? At this moment xposed works up to marshmallow. And I love it. Too lazy to describe my whole configuration. Just search for youtube adblock. Also required by “Deep Sleep Battery Saver”.



So CM13 is much faster than stock rom and has more configuration options. In EX Kernel Manager you might want to disable sweep2sleep, but tap2wake is nice. Also make sure OTG+charge and fast charge is enabled with “set on boot” option. For the “Deep Sleep” app select “Slumberer” mode – force tablet into deep sleep when screen is off, close to Timur’s kernel.



For the tasker - what I’m using ATM :

1. ScreenTimeout – ElementalX doesn’t go to sleep like Timurs, so when there’s no power screen timeout is reduced to 7 seconds, airplane mode is on. Also when there is power I’m using “Get location GPS” option, with “Keep tracking” option.( It must be disabled in “Exit task” later.) This way gps is locked every time car is running, so I can jump to the maps and it will work right away. Normally screen timeout is set for 5 minutes, and daydream is on. So after 5 minutes screen goes dark and only the clock is displayed.




2. Low Battery – if battery happens to be under 50% screen timeout will be reduced and daydream will be off. Also “ScreenTimeout” profile will be disabled to keep airplane mode on and not lock on gps. This way tablet’s screen will turn off. I have kernel with “double tap the screen to wake”, so I can still access tablet without buttons. Not recommended on Timurs kernel. There’s “wait” before screen time to make sure “ScreenTimeout’s” exit task will be completed.





3. Battery watcher is “legacy” task from when I was running Timur. Sometimes if I turned the key too fast (but slow enough to power the tablets charger) tablet will be stuck in powered OTG mode, but it will display that it’s charging. Some kind of crazy charging loop. Anyway battery was dropping FAST, and screen was always on. This task monitors battery when charging, and if % level is dropping, it will restart the tablet.




4. Music autoplay is kind of buggy. Tasker is really slow with detecting usb DAC, so for now I created “PlayMusic” shortcut on main screen over Acura logo and I’m playing music manually. I will work something out in the future.


Deep Sleep Battery Saver makes sure that all tasks (all specified by me apps) are killed before trying to go to sleep. It works really nice now. I made those screens today morning. Last time tablet was powered around 7-8pm yesterday. Now I used tap2wake option. That’s why it’s not charging. It was at 95%, temp outside is 31F.

Once I completely discharged it, until it turned off by itself. Then I started to charge it and drove to work. I’m driving every day for around 30 minutes total. Tablet was back to 100% after around 4-5 days. Music was always playing, but screen was off when battery was under 50%. So if I won’t leave my car for couple weeks, battery should be nice and charged.

For all the other configuration look at “ADay2Long” thread. I’m pretty much using all apps he suggested.

For the music player I’m using Poweramp. Been using it for 4 years now. I heard it has problems if you keep your music library on USB drive.

Time to put fresh screen protector on the tablet and glue it to the bezel. I used some hot glue and some epoxy. Use sand paper on the back of the tablet to make it easier for the glue to hold. From my research hot glue shouldn’t melt in the summer sun. Don’t have a photo but I went quite crazy with it. Also try not sticking any metal things to the back of the tablet – it will mess up perception of wifi, Bluetooth, and gps.

I cut out metal bezel, so it had only the sides for the screws. I glued it to the bezel with the tablet. This way I’m hoping to keep nice GPS perception. I sanded and soldered the metal bezel on the edges – can’t weld and don’t have access to it. I holds surprisingly well, but some hot glue won’t hurt.

At this point I didn’t even touch my car. So worst case I lost ~$100 for tablet and bezel. It worked out nicely so I will keep going.




Part II : Disassemble the Car

Look for the service manual or other threads. Great resource was this video : Used it mostly for the start, then it’s just “see the screw? Remove the screw” process.

Make photos where what type of the screws goes, like that :


Yes. I’m working in the winter gloves. It was like 5F outside and I don’t have garage. Fun times. Not recommended though, plastic might be more brittle when it’s cold. But I didn’t broke a single clip – lucky me.



Small note : At this point you might consider converting lights to LEDs. I replaced bulbs everywhere in that area. Much easier – you have it disassembled anyway. Start with climate controls – you should have a spare from the bezel you ordered.



Couple photos FYI :







I went with “3mm Flat Top Clear Lens Warm White 13000 Mcd LED (Pack of 100)” for $9 and “E-Projects 100EP514510R 510 Ohm Resistors, 1/4 W, 5% (Pack of 100)” for $7

It has 19mA at full brightness and around 15mA at my “normal” dash brightness. With max 24mA they should have nice and easy life.




Part III: Extending the wires

You will need to extend some wires. Wires for the buttons can be easily done at home. More is better than not enough. I also tapped into aux radio connection, and shorted two wires. My stock aux port still works, but radio thinks something is connected to it all the time. Also I didn’t try playing music from both sources (audio DAC from tablet and something from aux). Hopefully it can’t damage the radio.



There’s service manual :




C31 is your aux left channel,
C33 is right,
C34 would be audio ground

And I think I shorted out C35 and C32. Test it out with meter on the original aux port.

Remember that you have spare buttons and scrap board from other model ? I used their wires to patch up some nice extensions:



If you go this way hot glue the male connector back (one you removed from the display board). Pins will slip out when you connect something to it. At first I thought I messed something up – some buttons weren’t working.



Part IV: Display relocation

So in theory there are couple ways to do it:

1. Leave the board in buttons bezel, behind the tablet, and extend wires for the display (around 48? Of them, some are dubled). Tried and it was harder, and tablet had problems with GPS with all that circuitry behind it. But it will be easier to glue displays and no need to modify vents or “complicated” install procedure
2. Move whole board. About same amount of the wires, but you need to solder couple of them in car. Need to modify vents, and if you decide to glue it like me… watch video on the very end
2a. Move whole board but make custom bracket for it (instead of gluing it to the plastic). I tried and failed. Didn’t have access to welder and metal, and used plastic was not strong enough to hold it.
3. Throw it out. Who cares ?
4. Relocate it to some other place. For example front bumper.


I went with #2.

Main parts list:
- Acrylic plexi glass – I used “Source One LLC 1/8 th Inch Thick 12 x 12 Inches Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet, Clear” from amazon for $14
- Automotive window tint – I used “Gila Heat Shield Plus 20% VLT Automotive Window Tint” for $15. You might want to go for darker one. When it’s sunny I can see display when it’s off.

Prepare tinted window first – it should dry for couple days. My had water marks under the tint but they went away after 3 days. Google how to tint windows if you never did. It was my first time and it worked nicely the very first time.






That was my template. I measured bezel size and cut out plexi (knife with ruler couple of times, then break on the edge of the table) before tinting. I needed to trim it down a little bit. It didn’t ruin the tint, but acrylic makes funny web-like strings if you cut it with dremel. They are all over the place including my hair. So much fun !






Those water marks were under the tint. I used water with normal liquid soap. It is completely clear now. Much easier that I thought.



You can watch :
For me it was; clean, spray plexi with soapy water (later “SW”), lay tint and cut it out, clean again, spray plexi with sw, remove transparent layer from the tint, spray both sides of the tint with sw, sw on plexy again, lay it down, squeeze out the water with something rubbery and soft




Done



To cut out the drawers plastic… it was the hardest part. I really didn’t want to mess it up, so I ordered new one online. This way I have original plastic from my car, or the spare if I would mess up the first one.

Part number is 77290-sep-a010. It’s around ~$40 bucks on ebay, and look on the photos. Many of them have pretty bad scratches.


Of course I wasn’t completely happy with my first cut, so I took original plastic and did it again. It’s nice this time. Good that I ordered extra before.






I created a guide line between top of the plastic and bottom of the “wood” plastic that sits around the shifter. Cut it with cutting wheel. Then completely annihilated anything at the back.





Also part of the bottom went out.








I tested out the fitment with tinted plexiglass protected with masking tape.






Clean up and put bezel on something soft. I secured the plexi glass to the bezel, with tint to the inside of the car, and then hot glued the hell out of it. Make sure you have some extra plexi, so the glue won’t be visible from the outside.






Then I hot glued displays to the bezel. It’s actually pretty strong. I needed to move it and it took some effort.



You will need to modify the vents for the rear to fit the display there. Just cut them with knife, bend, and hotglue+tape.





PS. I was driving like that for a month.

Now to actually install the radio/climate display. I was afraid my English will fail me if I would try to describe it.



So there’s the video. Fun… again.


So… was it worth it? Totally. I actually really enjoyed the process. Love DIY projects, and while it was not the hardest one, it was most risky so far. Right now everything is working great. I put interior back together… and it looks weird. But awesome. I guess I got used to my car while I was driving without interior for about a month.

I learned a lot and got couple new toys (like dremel). Now I just need to convert rest of the interior to LEDs… and who knows? Maybe it’s time to take care of the timing belt ?

If you have any questions – I will try to answer them. But no promise, might get bored and forget about this forum.

Let me know what you think ! And good luck if you ever decide to modify your car !

Photo shows “old” soldering points. Use “new” pointed with arrows. Second “ground” or “id” is for identification. Google for USB ID if you want to know more, but basically short it with ground to force tablet in OTG mode. All OTG cables are doing it.

I’m extending all 5 usb wires, this way I can flash new rom without disassembling whole dash. I will hide them behind glove box.

I’m right there to it might be good idea to “extend” physical buttons if system or battery would take a crap on me. They are going to the glove box too.



I did cut out some of tablet’s back to make room for the wires. I’m using “Battery Wire Balance Connectors”. That’s how my tablet looked like after that step :




Now my tablet is charging and turning on. I guess the risk of buying “dead with broken usb port” was worth it.

PS. That scratch was there before ! Edges won’t be perfect. I polished it later. Can’t really see it when it’s in the car.

There’s service manual :




C31 is your aux left channel,
C33 is right,
C34 would be audio ground

And I think I shorted out C35 and C32. Test it out with meter on the original aux port.

Remember that you have spare buttons and scrap board from other model ? I used their wires to patch up some nice extensions:



If you go this way hot glue the male connector back (one you removed from the display board). Pins will slip out when you connect something to it. At first I thought I messed something up – some buttons weren’t working.

That was my template. I measured bezel size and cut out plexi (knife with ruler couple of times, then break on the edge of the table) before tinting. I needed to trim it down a little bit. It didn’t ruin the tint, but acrylic makes funny web-like strings if you cut it with dremel. They are all over the place including my hair. So much fun !






Those water marks were under the tint. I used water with normal liquid soap. It is completely clear now. Much easier that I thought.



You can watch :
For me it was; clean, spray plexi with soapy water (later “SW”), lay tint and cut it out, clean again, spray plexi with sw, remove transparent layer from the tint, spray both sides of the tint with sw, sw on plexy again, lay it down, squeeze out the water with something rubbery and soft




Done



To cut out the drawers plastic… it was the hardest part. I really didn’t want to mess it up, so I ordered new one online. This way I have original plastic from my car, or the spare if I would mess up the first one.

Part number is 77290-sep-a010. It’s around ~$40 bucks on ebay, and look on the photos. Many of them have pretty bad scratches.


Of course I wasn’t completely happy with my first cut, so I took original plastic and did it again. It’s nice this time. Good that I ordered extra before.






I created a guide line between top of the plastic and bottom of the “wood” plastic that sits around the shifter. Cut it with cutting wheel. Then completely annihilated anything at the back.





Also part of the bottom went out.








I tested out the fitment with tinted plexiglass protected with masking tape.






Clean up and put bezel on something soft. I secured the plexi glass to the bezel, with tint to the inside of the car, and then hot glued the hell out of it. Make sure you have some extra plexi, so the glue won’t be visible from the outside.







Photo shows hot glue, but I was forced to "update" it with JB weld (epoxy) as hot glue fell apart in sun. Added a zip tie, forgot to make photo.

You will need to modify the vents for the rear to fit the display there. Just cut them with knife, bend, and epoxy+tape.





PS. I was driving like that for a month.

Now to actually install the radio/climate display. I was afraid my English will fail me if I would try to describe it.



So there’s the video. Fun… again.

You Tube

It doesn't cause glovebox to hang lower, and all newer acura/hondas have them more/less like that.

1. Pair module with tablet - module ON, tablet at bluetooth page, just click on name of the module
2. You will need app called "Bluetooth GPS" (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...id.btgps&hl=en).
3. Follow apps instructions in order to connect to bluetooth module.

Accuracy 2 meters hah.



Settings for this app :
Fused Provider works with Google Maps, Sygic, and Brightness app just fine.


To automatically connect it I will use tasker and apps intent. Ttasker didn't want to work at the beginning. Now it works fine, all the time, 100% success rate. No idea what was wrong.







To disconnect it :




I'm using separate tasks to be able to stop the reliably - it's just how tasker works.

When everything is okay, I secured GPS module to some wires that are on the right of front middle speaker. This way module has dash and windshield above it, no obstacles to block the signal.

There's photos of version 1.0 :

#include <avr/sleep.h>

/*

Version 1.0 Easy
by peter6, https://acurazine.com,

Note : Version without battery, just simple delay timer

It's simple program to delay the tablet from getting power at the second time.
By default it uses pin #3 for output signal for mosfet that powers the relay.

Share as you want, just leave my name at the top.

*/

int relayPin = 3; //pin used for signaling the relay to send power to the tablet

int firstDelay = 2000; //amount of ms to delay before sensing and powering up tablet


//standard arduino function, performed once at the startup, sets relayPin and builtin LED
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);
}



//sets relayPin to high and turns on biultin LED
void powerUp() {
digitalWrite(relayPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);
}

//sets relayPin to low and turns off LED
void powerDown() {
digitalWrite(relayPin, LOW);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
}


//standard arduino function, will complete all the time
void loop() {
//wait
delay(firstDelay);
powerUp();

//now our job here is done
exit;
}

PS. Foot lights are "warm white", not yellow like on photos !