I had to delete this post because pictures don not show. I will repost when I fix it.

 

I don't have a backup camera yet, but I decided to install the converter to get i out of my way while weather is good. The istall is more or less similar to Kenny's, with the main difference that I didn't buy the plug and play adaptor. It added about 1.5 to 2 hours to the process. Not very easy, because wires form the navi comupter are short, but not extremely difficult.
I started with installation of 2 DB9 connectors on the signal cable, which came with the unit. Four input wires went to a male connector, four output- to female. I decided to leave both gorund wires (black and bare) open, because sometimes extra grounding points may lead to ground loops. It turned out to be a right decision, i don't see any degradation of video quality.

Next I disassembled the trunk removed the navi computer and separated Navi signal wires.



Video wires are the ones coming out of the brown jacket. There are 6 of them- 4 for video, ground and shield. I didn't touch the last 2, the rest I cut in the middle (first wires I cut in this car!) and attached the female DB9 to the Navi side and the male DB9 to the harness side. I didn't install housing on the male connector- wires are too short.



This way, if the converter fails, I can simply connect the DB9s together to return to the factory configuration.

I connected the power cable from the converter to ACC power wire going to the Navi using a vampire tap, and connected groung to the navi computer chassis.



I mounted the converter on Velcro behind an internal pillar in the trunk, and secured it with a cable tie.




The extra $100 in my wallet do feel good!

 

nice job! pnp option is expensive but it avoids exactly what I don't want to do - splicing oem wires.

Besides, I can't get my big fat fingers back there anyways...

 

I have a quick question. Is that the pink wire that you spliced in for the power? It is hard to tell from that angle.
I bought both the convertor and the camera. I plan on doing the install this weekend. I really don't want to have to run a wire to the front of the car. thanks.

 

nevermind, i see from the last picture it is the orange with grey stripe. i was thinking that the green plug was your splice.

 

Thanks for taking the initiative to come up with something modular that can configure back to stock!

So, from what I'm seeing, the only wires you gotta cut are the 4 wires from the brown jacket. Then like you said, take DB9 connector and apply on the newly cut wires coming from the brown jacket. Take the other DB9 connector and apply to the other half of cut wires coming from the stock Navi connector (so this now becomes a very small harness.....almost but you still have the blue and black wire connected).

Splice into Navi power for power. Ground to navi chassis.

So, we're looking at purchasing 2 D-sub connectors (1 male and 1 female) and 1 vampire crimp overall, right? For a total about $4 bucks tops.

2 more questions:
-For your d-sub connectors, did you go with crimp style or solder type?
-Did you prep the wires? (looks like you spliced and then soldered each of them but I'm not really sure)

Thanks. You seem to know what you're doing so I'm gonna follow your lead!

 

Someone should "sticky" this, considering how much you can save going non-PNP from Dom (he says himself that his PNP harness isn't worth paying the price) and also the much increased interest of adding his nav-dvd-converter to our vehicles after this last group buy.



Thanks. There's an extra $100 bucks towards my high-flow cat fund!

 

4 connectors!
I used crimp terminals. Wire prep consisted of stripping insulation for about 3mm.

My opinion is that soldering works better on the bench, when you don't work bent over. Good crimp is very reliable- all factory connectors are crimped after all.

 

I already had all the tools and connectors, so I can't recommend were to get them. I loooked through Radio Shcak catalog, and they have everything needed. Their prices and quality usualy mediocre, so Caveat Emptor.

Video connections:
9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector (need 2 of them)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
9-Position Male Crimp D-Sub Connector (need 2 of them)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
9- and 15-Position D-Sub Connector Hood (need 2 of them). I think that you only need hoods on the converter cable, navi wires are too short.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

Power connection: (even people with plug and play units need those)
#6 Insulated Ring Terminals- for grounding
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors (aka Vampire tap) for 12V
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
I think this is a right one, but picture misrepresents the purpose. This connector should look like this one when installed:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
or like this one while still in a bag:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
You must use red connector, blue and yellow are for larger diameter wires.

D-Sub Pin Crimper Judging by the picture it looks like the crimper I used.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
D-Sub Pin Insertion and Extraction Tool- you don't really need this one, unless you misplace a pin and need to extract it. Insertion is easily done by bare hands.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
Kronus Gauged Wire Stripper/Cutter If you' ve done any electrical work, you should already have a similar tool. You can probably get a better version in Home Depot.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

 

I can make more than $100 in the extra 1-2 hours required to do the non-pnp. I also think it looks a little cleaner.

With my luck I would cut the wrong wire and boom!!!! Well not actually boom, u know what I mean. Plus I am still in warranty and don't want to mess with that.

 

Well, if you make $100 in 1-2 hours after taxes- my hat is off.
Working on the car and improving it is first of all a moral gratification to me. Doing it ofr enjoyment and saving money in process is the best of both worlds.

 

gt1 did u pick out a DVD player yet?

 

I got the non-PNP version also. I haven't installed it yet, but I will probably use quick disconnects on the cut wires instead of adding d-sub connectors.
Radio Shack link

 

rx7magic
I am not sure that I will install a DVD player. First of all, I will hardly use it, but more important, I couldn't find a suitable location to install it. Some people put it in place of rear cupholders in the back seat armrest, but I don't want to through away any OEM equipment. I might install the player if I'll find one which can be fitted in the glovebox.

T. Diddy
I think that quick disconnects are inferior to D-Subs, this is based on personal experience, not scinetific research.

 

It is before taxes, hate those taxes.
I agree on the gratification thing, that is why I didn't hand the keys to some jacka** and tell him to install the audio/dvd, etc.

I put the Blitz Safe audio aux in today, what a pain in the royal ass. I tried the behind the radio deal by the gas pedal....OMG, I left more DNA in that car than I would with a......

 

The quick connects are ok for a switch though right? Those little guys are what I am going to use to wire the switch up to the drivers side.

 

bsed on my limited experience with quick connects, it is more difficult to obtain a consistent quaility crimp with them, especially on thin wires. Just few of them are OK, but video connection needs 16

 

You are the man. I was on the fence on doing this mod or not but now im going to.. Thanks!!

 

My advice would be to start with purchasing a DB25 connector and using it to practice crimping. It will help to decide if shelling out $100 for the PnP harness is necessary.

 

I found that quick disconnects work well when I strip extra off the end of the wire. Then bend the bare wire in half, and stick that into the connector. This gives the crimp a little more bare wire to grip on to. I do this with any thin wires that I add lugs/disconnects to.
With any lug or connector that you add on to wire, its good practice to tug with some force on the wire to see if the crimp held. I'm sure most people doing this probably know that already.
Oh yeah gt1, nice install and thanks for the pics. I'm gonna use that velcro/cable tie idea for mounting my unit.

 

What about this piece?

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=937

PNVH05

Could this be used with one of our nav converters? I mean at least for the harness. At least that way I could work on the cutting and splcing in the house at a desk, then go outside and "plug and play".

 

Doubt it...Dom's unit uses a 9 pin serial port to connect to our navigation units. Looking at the other vehicle harnesses on the discount site I don't see a serial port wire. Just a guess though.

 

You'd have to adapt the PNVH05 harness to the Dom converter, but looks like it would definitely work. Would take some soldering onto the Dom converter wires, but in the end, you'd have a PnP solution that wouldn't necessitate cutting any of the stock Navi wires!

 

what are ya using for you audio w/ dom's unit??? i hope i don't have to use a fm mod.

 

I used the Blitzsafe Ver 2.0. Hooks directly in the back of the head unit. Nice and clean install with excellent sound. I used two pig tails to splice the audio to the ipod and dvd player. One less switch and the sound quality is very good (I think better than the 3 way audio switch I tried)

 

Does anyone know what the 4 video wires are? Which one is the video signal?

 

Please disregard the previous post. I figured it out...