Coins

Well I have noticed that one of my speakers is blown somewhere, so it got me thinking and I decided I wanted to add an aftermarket subwoofer rather than the 8" stock sub.

What do you guys think of this setup:
JL Audio 10" 10W1v2-4

Ported Sound Ordnance box
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB10...er.html?tp=127

I haven't chosen the AMP yet, I'm still looking.
Do you guys have any recommendations?

I only want one 10" sub because I just want it to sound very clean and not be obnoxious

rich20730

A ported box tuned to 39hz will likely sound obnoxious. If you are looking for sound quality you'd be better off going with a sealed enclosure or a ported box that is tuned lower.

Post a budget and I'm sure people can give you lots of options for amps or a sub/amp combo in your price range.

jda123

^ Yup. Most pre-fab ported boxes are for output and not sound quality. Pick a sub and then pick the box accordingly.

For that sub, look for a JL 250/1.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Check your local craigslist. Or post up where the closest craigslist is to you and we can help.

Coins

I want to say my budgets around $250 max for the amp. But i am only powering this one sub woofer with the amp so hopefully that's way more then a sufficient amount.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/

My overall budget for the project is about $400
Since I know that I want that sub, I still have $300+ to play with.

jda123

Make sure this works:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ele/3033512017.html

300w bridged.

Coins

Okay I emailed him regarding it.
Any other ones you guys recommend? I prefer buying from CL as long as the owners willing to test it for me.

Thanks btw jda123!

pohljm

58$ for a IB sub, 40$ for materials, your choice of amp and a LOC and your done. Great bass response and almost no trunk lost!

Coins

The guy said he has other people prior to me interested in the amp so it might be a goner.

Coins

Sorry for the double post, too late to edit my posts.

I actually posted the wrong sub, getting the 10W1v2 rather than the 10W0v2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-AUDIO-10W...item4603fa846f

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

12" IDq

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...q12-v2-d4.html

SSA Dcon
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...subwoofer.html

There are TONS more over at DIYMA too

Coins

So I was able to get in touch with the guy with the 300/2 amp again and he said he would sell it to me for $120.
He said he'll also plug it to his system to test it for me.

At that price should I get it?

rich20730

If it works I would get it.

Coins

Okay guess i'll get taht along with the 10" 10w1 sub

I'll also be buying a 35hz tuned ported box, anyone got any suggestions where I should buy it?

Also since im messing with the sound system, is there anyway to integrate an AUX cable for a cheap price?

rich20730

I guess it depends what you mean by cheap. The iSimple has an aux input. I picked one up from amazon.com for $100

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'd take this over what you're looking at...

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/pts/3035287316.html ($200)

OR

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/for/3045413518.html

OR

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/3003196916.html

OR

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/ele/3042513206.html (offer $170 or something and pick up a 1.5cuft sealed online for $50)

OR

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/3042425422.html



...I could go on for awhile. Dallas craigslist is LOADED so take a look

Coins

I saw most of those, some are too far for me to drive to from where I am exactly.
The JLaudio 12" would just be so much power lol I don't think I quite honestly want something that powerful.

As for the AMP, would it be worth it to purchase that one over the JL Audio 300/2?

He lives very close to me so I could go pick it up by tomorrow, i think hes also willing to go lower.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

be aware...just upgrading the sub is the gateway drug into replacing all speakers and adding a 2nd amp for those and then processing and deadening etc...

Unless you're like me and hellbent on driving on the highway with windows down and still feeling the music, find your blown speaker and replace it with stock. Otherwise be ready to come back to this thread in a year and let us know that you hit the $2K mark

Coins

Lol yah I'm going to replace it with stock but I wanted a new sub since my brother had a single 10 or 12" kicker in his old TL.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I guess what I was getting at is it's very easy to put in enough bass to make you want to upgrade the highs, then once highs are good, you'll want more bass.

Sounds like you know what you're doing though...
If I did it over again, I'd deaden and strengthen the rear deck and get a nice shallow mount 8" in there and hit it with 200 watts RMS. Keep the trunk and keep the cost down.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

If I did it again I wouldn't have joined A-zine lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Amen to that!

jda123

Get the 300/2, especially at that price. If you ever do upgrade the fronts, then use the 300/2 on those and get a 250/1 monoblock (or similar) for your sub. The JL Slash amps are great for our cars because they are powerful and accept the stock signal with no line driver, processor or worries (best of all)... they are too cheap and easy to want to mess around with something else.

pohljm

^^ I agree fully

Coins

Sadly the guy decided not to wait a few hours and sold it for $20 less
Any other amps you may recommend?

Are there any good amps besides JL Audio brand that would go well with the sub or should I just stick with JL Audio?

pohljm

I can guaranty that a JL amp will work well with the TL headunit without a line driver/convertor. I dont know about the others.

Coins

Okay so if I stick with a JL audio Amp I won't have to purchase the LOC?
Anyone know the specific wire guages or have a wiring diagram for the setup?

Wacker

I just installed this sub/box combo...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...&skuId=9985248
And am running this amp.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-GM...ifier/17129592
It sounds amazing!!!!!

Coins

nice man! glad you like it!
Can't wait till I have my sub in!

This guy said he still has his 250/1 amp, hasn't told me a price yet. Would that be a signifcant amount of power since the sub specs say range: 150- 300 RMS @ 4 ohms and amp is 250 RMS @ 4 ohms

Or is it not that big of a difference?

pohljm

I personally would not take any signal after the factory amp. It may be easier, but if your paying money to improve your sound quality then amplifying an already noisy and cut signal is not the way to do it. You could install the best amp and sub known to man, but if the factory processing does not allow any low frequencies because of the shortcomings of the OEM sub then your new setup cannot magically recreate and reproduce the information that is missing

That amp would be more than fine with a 4guage power and ground.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

but if all he's shooting for is upping his subwoofer, he won't hear any noise through that channel anyway (since it's only low frequency). Just go the LOC route, that way you can still kill the bass from the factory radio.

Since you're hellbent on doing this, go to sonic electronix. They are amazing with customer service, price matching shipping etc...and you can pull a package deal. You're on a budget and just looking for a bit more bass, you don't need to get such expensive name brands. I have audiobahn 12's that have been banging for nearly 10 years and they were cheap at circuit city when I bought them. The amp, I have mb quart...top of the line, no, but get the job done.

J.

Here's an example...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_....html?from=857

or here
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_....html?from=857

They have bundles with the amp wiring kit, but you can get that on the side from them for cheap also.

Good luck.

pohljm

^^ problem is not necessarily noise. The signal is cut below 80. no material for sub to play

Wacker

I picked up my signal after the amp....no noise whatsoever....

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Well I'd hope not doing post-amp...

Make sure you're turning your x-over all the way up, basically using the full range of the amp.

pohljm

The signal after the amp is dirty and you are amplifying that! Your only using the sub channel frequencies so you dont necessarily hear it. The main issue is your new sub cannot play low because the OEM processing has cut them and you cant get them back. If your happy thats all that matters

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Considering the setup and mainly the ported box that's likely tuned around 45-48hz, he won't be getting much lower than that anyways lol

pohljm

I guess your right! Its just a little frustrating that for a couple hundred dollars more he could have a completely rockin system without any compromises.

Wacker

Was not my intention to hijack this thread, but I was not aware of the internal filters in the factory amp. It sounds great. I used to work for Circuit City Roadshop years ago and have had some pretty high dollar systems. For the money it is amazing how this system sounds. I have not noticed any loss of depth either.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Wacker

LOL!!! I will pull the kick panel and play with it tomorrow...Will give me the piece of mind that I wont overload the amp with the high level input out of the stock amp... If it sounds this good now, I can only imagine how good it will sound "unfiltered"...