Jaa99pa

After reading what i've found on here and trying to research info wherever i can, i've come to the conclusion that i'm still confused!
I was considering an 8" JL sub and Amp, using a sealed enclosure, but after speaking to a tech at JL just now, he seems to think a Bandpass box is better. He suggests pointing the ports through the pass-through of the back seats, but would that be overkill? He also said that a sealed box in the trunk might promote rattling, which nobody wants. Installers i've spoke with and people on here seem to say that a sealed enclosure gives more accurate, tight bass response, which i would prefer. I prefer Rock, not Rap, so i like things sounding tight and accurate, not boomy. He also thinks that a 10" sub would be better. My system is currently stock, but may upgrade the speakers and amp down the road.
If you have only an after market sub and amp, what is your set-up, and how do you like it?

Toronto-TL

I just last week added a JL audio sub :http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_e...=2&prod_id=295 and amp: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=251 and it sounds so tight and supplements the OEM system wonderfully. The box is rear firing ported and doesn't block the spare tire in the trunk, fits nicely and I mounted the amp to the back of the sub so I can adjust setting from the trunk passthrough.

Jaa99pa

How is the box attached to the floor? I really hate to take up any trunk space, but might not have a choice. Do you have pictures of your install, and did you do it yourself?

Toronto-TL

It's about 65 lbs so it just sits there, unmovable I guess you could put velcro under it but so far I haven't found it necessary. I had it installed at a shop because I didn't have a place to do it myself. Not a difficult install to do, the most time was spent on running the power wire from the battery to the trunk. I bought the JL audio power wires (4gage), he grounded the amp the an area under the spare tire that he used a grinder on the get a good ground connection. The signal is supplied from the sub speaker wire, just unplug it and attach an rca connector to it and plug it into the amp. The amp turns on automatically when it senses a signal so you don't need a trigger wire. The amp also has an input sensitivity adjustment so you can tune the sub to your desired level.

The angled back is nice as it fits nicely in the rear of the trunk, I have no pics but I still have lots of room and the wife didn't bitch once bit when she saw it in the trunk.

I must say I'm thrilled with the quality of the JL products and the sound of the amp/sub combo

yohan81718

I once had a system on 00' Camry. Got it totalled and bought this 06 TL. I moved the same sub+amp to TL. I was very surprised how TL makes almost no rattlings compare to my old Camry. I know I don't have big power subs or amps, but my old camry was just rattling crap. Unless you are going like 1k watts rms, i don't think you will experience too much rattlings. Maybe get some dynamat for the licence plate frame?

i would like to know how other people are with their rattlings?

Jaa99pa

Toronto, I'm just about sold on the 250/1 amp that you got. I really like that it turns on when it senses a signal. One less wire to run. Not sure about the sub yet though. Would prefer an 8" in a smaller box, but not sure how it would sound...

Yohan81718, what setup do you have?

VelfarreClubber

I went from 1 8w7, 2 JL 10w6v2's down to 1 12w6v2 all SEALED enclosures.

Single 8 and 10' wouldn't cut it for me since i listen to a wide variety of music, hip hop/rap just wouldn't work since the sub will clip. and there are times where i like to crank it loud! and be a bass head

1 12" is a good route for all music and not too costly. But i prefer my bass to hit tight and accurate.

So i will go back to 2 10w6v2's (sealed) i had to return it before since i was short on dough.

For rock music you can't go wrong with the 10w6v2, make sure you take out the oem sub to create some airspace.