Which Subs?
i myself have 2 12" sony xplods in my trunk that are 1300 watts each and i believe 250 watts rms.. let me tell you..these subs hit hard. i set off car alarms everywhere i go..the only problem is that the trunk area rattles like crazyyyyy do u definitely need to invest in some dynamaat
Originally Posted by Nurse
i have 2 10in kicker solo baric L7's 1200 watts MAX/600 RMS in a bandpass box ported through the rear seat armrest. 0% vibration and no need for dynomat. i still have plenty of trunk space too. 
What kind of music do you listen to? If you go with Alpine, Kicker or Kenwood you really can't go worng. Go to a shop and listen for your self. If you're from chicago go to ABT in Glenview. Good Luck and Bump Loud
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[QUOTE=Nurse]here are the pics. i haveent finished the cosmetic portion of the port. i will put a mesh on the port to conceal the inside. it will have to do for the mean time. What do you think?
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The question of "which subs" is a very subjective question. What once person may find appealing in a sub may not appeal to another. Case in point, the L7's in a ported box, I personally don't like the sound the produce. It is a loud setup, but not the type of bass I listen to. I like tight, low bass. Ported boxes produce the frequency at which the box is tuned to. This is usually around 55hz. That means the subs will be super loud at that frequency, but will not produce the low 30hz sounds that well. Think of a bell curve, with the center of the bell curve being the frequency the box is tuned to. As it slopes off on both sides, this is what happens to you bass response. A sealed box is going to give you a smother curve. It will be able to start at a lower frequency and carry up and then start to cut off around 100hz-110hz. If you really want to see what I am talking about visit some of the Sub manufactures websites and look at the graphs. Here is one to give an idea Polk Audio This is not just my opinion on this, I have been installer for 8 years and have built alot of boxes and designed alot of systems. So the more appropriate question is, "which subs should I go with if I want loud bass?" or "what should I get to have clean accurate bass?".
Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
The question of "which subs" is a very subjective question. What once person may find appealing in a sub may not appeal to another. Case in point, the L7's in a ported box, I personally don't like the sound the produce. It is a loud setup, but not the type of bass I listen to. I like tight, low bass. Ported boxes produce the frequency at which the box is tuned to. This is usually around 55hz. That means the subs will be super loud at that frequency, but will not produce the low 30hz sounds that well. Think of a bell curve, with the center of the bell curve being the frequency the box is tuned to. As it slopes off on both sides, this is what happens to you bass response. A sealed box is going to give you a smother curve. It will be able to start at a lower frequency and carry up and then start to cut off around 100hz-110hz. If you really want to see what I am talking about visit some of the Sub manufactures websites and look at the graphs. Here is one to give an idea Polk Audio This is not just my opinion on this, I have been installer for 8 years and have built alot of boxes and designed alot of systems. So the more appropriate question is, "which subs should I go with if I want loud bass?" or "what should I get to have clean accurate bass?".
Originally Posted by sirbentley
What kind of music do you listen to? If you go with Alpine, Kicker or Kenwood you really can't go worng. Go to a shop and listen for your self. If you're from chicago go to ABT in Glenview. Good Luck and Bump Loud 
Agreed ABT is the greatest electronic store ever.
For my personal opinion JL Audio make unreal subs, if you want something cleaner sounding, the Eclipse Aluminum sub is unreal, but both subs require some serious power.
Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
The question of "which subs" is a very subjective question. What once person may find appealing in a sub may not appeal to another. Case in point, the L7's in a ported box, I personally don't like the sound the produce. It is a loud setup, but not the type of bass I listen to. I like tight, low bass. Ported boxes produce the frequency at which the box is tuned to. This is usually around 55hz. That means the subs will be super loud at that frequency, but will not produce the low 30hz sounds that well. Think of a bell curve, with the center of the bell curve being the frequency the box is tuned to. As it slopes off on both sides, this is what happens to you bass response. A sealed box is going to give you a smother curve. It will be able to start at a lower frequency and carry up and then start to cut off around 100hz-110hz. If you really want to see what I am talking about visit some of the Sub manufactures websites and look at the graphs. Here is one to give an idea Polk Audio This is not just my opinion on this, I have been installer for 8 years and have built alot of boxes and designed alot of systems. So the more appropriate question is, "which subs should I go with if I want loud bass?" or "what should I get to have clean accurate bass?".
You are absolutely right about the base response being different from a sealed box. I went with a sealed box until the ported box was made. I can tell the difference but not that much to change my mind. It was a choice between “tighter” sounding base or trunk rattle. Yes I can go with dynomat to help with rattling but with the amount of watts I’m pushing it wouldn’t get rid of it all. I can’t stand hearing that awful sound of trunk rattle in such a beautiful car like the TL. It’s all about personal preference. To balance off the base, I changed the interior speakers as well. Boston Acoustics SL 60 components in the front and SL65’s in the rear. As the above picture shows, I have one Punch T4004 bridged going to the subs and the other for the interior speakers. I left the center channel alone. I used the LC6 Audio Control for the pre-amp signal.
Originally Posted by AcuraVic
So, give some suggestions for a direct sub replacement for the OEM that will provide crisper bass (clean accurate bass). While your at it, recommend some speakers for the rest of the car that will provide crisper highs (clean accurate sound).

Or a traditional box of some sort (ported, sealed, bandpass).
Personally I like the Polk Audio equipment. The new SR series speakers are great. They are offered in componets and subs. As for the rear speakers, that would be whatever you wanted to use. I have a set of 6 3/4" Polk MOMO mid bass drivers.
For the most part, choosing your speakers should be done with what you plan on doing to it. If you are not going to use a aftermarket amp in a car, you won't want to use some of the higher end speakers, as they require more power and really wont hold up well on either a factory radio or even an aftermarket radio.
I have a Audiobahn 5.1 amp mounted in the tire well. That way it is hidden and it runs all the speakers in the car.
The best thing to do is to go and listen to the speakers on a demo board at your local car stereo shop. If you are in the Huntsville, AL area come see me at Circuit City, and I can let you hear what some of the Subs would sound like in your car.
Jason
Thanks for the info, Jason. I may roll up to huntsville just to listen to your system someday. The 'in store' speaker setup never sound the same to me once I get them in the car. I think your setup is great, but not for me ( 10 years ago, definetly!!). I like the car to 'look stock' but perform like aftermarket.
Subs are ver sujective, but I will put my vote in for eD-Elemental Designs subs, as they are designed for smaller enclosures, but go very deep, and very loud. They are SQ subs, that can really pound with less power than many other big manufactures, and can easily outperform those big names. Check them out, the prices are very good, and the support is outstanding. You won't be dissapointed.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php?cur=USD
http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php?cur=USD
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