my 04TL's stock sub blew and im going to get it replaced...but before that I need to know:

1. What the stock size sub is?..is it a 8"inch sub?
2. How much power can the stock amp handle?
3. Any suggestions a Brand that I should get?..i was leaning towards Alpine

 

check this link... https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170169

 

yhe I found that that threat after I posted this..
it answers the first question for me
but now I need to know how much watts of power the stock 100watt amp can handle..should I getting a 150watt sub?

 

not sure, but I believe thestock sub is 8 ohm...

 

k i found out its s 2ohm sub...and aftermarket subs are 4ohm :S
anyone know where i can find a 2ohm sub thats a lil better than our stock TL's?
does another company like toyota or something have a car with 2ohm 8" inch sub ?

 

anyone know if any of these subs would work? im concerned about the size the most
- Kicker Comp VR 07CVR82 8" Dual 2-OHM Voice Coil Component SUB
Kicker
- Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 2 8" Dual 2-OHM Component Subwoofer
Fosgate

 

if your going to replace the sub you might as well get the most out of it and get an amp to run it. I'd suggest the jl 8w3 and a e series 1200 amp. Should get you a great combo without breaking the bank. With the wiring kit it should run you around $350 to do............

 

And you can hide the E1200 in your spare tire by removing the foam thats in the spare

 

that sounds alrite...
I talked with a audio shop here in Toronto and he said that I could do the following:
Get a 8" inch Sub with low watts(between 100-200watts) 4ohm dual voice coil and that should be fine and give me a little more thump than the stock sub..
what do you guys think?

 

check out www.crutchfield.com

I have seen some pretty nice 8" subs there, and I DO BELIEVE one was a 2ohm.

A 4ohm DVC sub will sound good, but our stock sub is a "free air" sub. You will need to "PLUG" up the holes in the rear deck to make it SEALED.

 

any ideas on how i could seal the holes in the rear to make it SEALED??
would dynamate work?

 

Well, there is a THREAD that talks about "plugging" up these holes. Look for the THREAD that says........."man, I hate the sound of our sub". It is in the Audio/Electronics forum.

Basically, you will need to cut some fiberboard and fit it into these "holes" in the rear deck (from INSIDE the trunk area) and then SILICONE/ADHERE them in place. THEN, you can Dynamat over the whole area.

Make sure that you get a SUB that will work in a SMALL SEALED area (0.3-0.6 cu.ft.) AND a SUB that plays at a very HIGH SPL rating (look for one ABOVE 89 SPL). Good Luck!!

 

So, by looking at the numbers the best that come up too is Rockford Fosgate P2D28

Size 8 -inch
Impedance 2 ohms
Cone Material Polypropylene
Surround Material Poly-Foam
Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.2 - 0.3
Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.65
Port diameter (inches) 2
Port length (inches) 8
Free-Air No
Dual Voice Coil Yes
Sensitivity 84dB
Frequency Response 40 - 250 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-200
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 400
Top Mount Depth (inches) 4 5/8
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 7 1/8
Vas (liters) 10.5
Fs (Hz) 40
Qts 0.45
Xmax (millimeters) 8
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty 1 Year

 

That's a very LOW Sensitivity (84db)............you are gonna need a TON of power to get it to play loud. Our stock amp won't do well with this sub...........it's too power hungry.
Rockford's are good subs, but NOT great subs. This one is power hungry. you will need an after market amp with 150 - 200 watts RMS to get it to play.

 

<technical rant>

That statement is half true. While the TS parameters state the efficiency of the sub in an ideal install, the stock TL's sub utilizes a IB type of an enclosure. With this in mind, sub efficiency goes up when utilizing an IB install and you do not need as much power to drive the sub to its mechanical limits. This is because the trunk is acting as a very large sealed enclosure (in so many words)

Please review this link for an overview of TS parameters

Link 2

As you pointed out you can combat this problem by sealing up the rear deck. But then you run into other problems


Also note this from the above listing
This tells me a couple of things.

1. This driver has a very limited bass range. In all actually might be better suited as a mid bass driver in the 60-250hz region. If you filter off your sub at 40Hz you are going to loose a lot of low end. Especially if you take the time to seal up the back deck. IMO you will be disappointed in the low end response even if you give the sub the extra power.

2. FS of 40 - Again not sub friendly - IMO you will want a driver with a lower FS in a sealed for a sealed box

3. QTS of .45 - This means the driver has a very sharp cutoff.... good for small sealed boxes


Furthermore, if you still wanted to go with this driver you do not want to go with model P2D28. That is a dual 2ohm voice coil sub. There are two ways to wire it. You'll end up with a 1ohm load, or a 4 ohm load at the end.

If you choose to stick with the factory amp, use model P2D48 which is a dual 4ohm. Parallel wire the coils so you get a 2ohm final load that way you utilize the amp to its fullest potential.


What I'm trying to say is if you look for a driver with a higher QTS (the sum of all the Q's), you will most likely have a driver that has a stronger suspension (QMS).

A woofer in IB operates in an "unloaded" state and therefore must rely on it's own mechanical suspension stiffness to control cone motion and/or prevent over excursion. Higher QTS and higher FS = better IB response.

Bottom line is you are only going to get so much output from an 8" sub. Whether you choose to seal up the back deck and look for a respectable replacement sub suited for a smalled sealed enclosure, or you choose to look for a drop in replacement that option is totally up to you.

</technical rant>


I hope at least some of this makes sense... bear with me I've been up for over 24 hours now.... still stuck at work

My suggestion

9Kv.2

You can get it as a d4 - its IB or sealed box friendly and you can keep your stock amp.

 

have you personally heard this sub? My stock subwoofer is blown and i am looking for a replacement. I have a kicker 200 watt amp and I want a sub in stock location. I was considering the kicker cvt8 as well. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I just got this sub the 9Kv.2
It sounds good more bass definitely but I think it eats all the power now. It might be just me but I think that now the whole sound system is not that loud that used to be with the stock sub. But again it might be just me.

 

It might be perceptional, it might not be. I couldn't tell you without looking at your install. The thing is we have 100w on tap to use for any subwoofer utilizing the stock amp.

draztic1011: Yes I have heard this sub. I have ran them sealed, ported and as dedicated midbass drivers up front in my Mazda. Fed adequate power you should have no problem with the output of these subs.

Ideally if you ran with this sub you'd need another 50-100w on tap to realize the full potential. Right now at 100w you are underpowering slightly. I recommended the Kv2 Because it's TS parameters indicate it would perform well in an IB type install. The price of the sub also makes it a good buy. I'm sorry if its not performing up to par - but you have to keep in mind the ideal power range - in addition to its still an 8" sub so your limited in cone area. You don't need a lot of power for most IB subs. What does factor in is the size of the sub (the cone area), in addition to the subs mechanical ability to move a volume of air. (typically measured in L.)

This was the box for my two 9Kv2s in my Mazda -



And as metered.



As you can see - given the right power, box and install you should have no issues with output.

 

did you add an amp or is on the stock amp?

 

What I did I just change it with the 9kv.2 (thanks to jnc2000) with stock amp.
It is defintely a good buy and make sure you get the D4 and parallel wire it.
On the other hand about eating all the power, I think my front speakers are going to death. What I mean is that the passanger front door speaker is making some kind of a noise when there is a hard bass like those when you listen to CH20,21,30. So, I think it is time to change the front too with those 651S.
Tim

 

Glad to hear you enjoy the sub.

 

Thanks for all the technical advice. I was looking for a drop in replacement for the stock sub and this looks like it fits the bill.

 

would this work?

 

*clears throat*

2008. I'm sure he's got something by now lol