beatni(c)k

i've been reading this forum for the past few months and have been doing some research into what type of speakers i should replace the stock ones with.
I didn't want to go all out with the large thump in the trunk like i did with the maxima i had, but i definitely needed more than that flat sound the tl comes with and i'm sure most of you felt the same way.

so i finally bought infinity 1011t's for the tweets, 32.7cf for the center, 62.7i's for the doors and rear deck, and a jl 8w3v2 to replace the sub, thanks to many people's recommendations. so after a hard days work of tearing apart my car, cutting, and drilling i'm happy to say that the tl's stereo finally sounds to my liking.

however, there is one "but" to this success story. i'm going to have to take everything apart again and dynamat thanks to the 8w3v2.

thanks again to everyone with their speaker recommendations!

cacicgt7

did you use an amp, or just run everything off of the stock amp

beatni(c)k

just running of the stock amp. still sounds great. a lot of people still might not be satisfied with the bass, but like i said, i'm not in the market to make my teeth rattle anymore. with that said, you still get a lot more bass even without an external amp, therefore the need to dynamat my rear deck.

datmrman

Nice!

So does you new setup still look stock?

beatni(c)k

yes sir, looks haven't changed at all. everything still looks stock, which is exactly what i wanted.

AMIC

Almost what I have...except I didn't bother with the rear speakers.

I need to go for the sub. I didn't realize it would still sound ok without an amp powering it.

datmrman

Even better. It's just the way I like. Modded but hidden.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Excellent call there bud... Glad to see you not cave to the peer pressure of the 150 db stereo, or the trunk ruining light/soundshow.

No bling, no 1000 watts, just good quality solid sound.

I have the exact same setup in the works.

I've already done the 1011t's and 32.7 in the front, and that alone was what inspired me to do the other speakers (as the improvement was that good).

I have a set of 62.7 and 63.7's for the doors and rear deck respectively. As soon as it warms up, I'll be doing the doors and the rear deck (along with a bulk pack of Dynomat extreme).

I also have a JL 8W3v2 for the sub. Given the JL 8W is a dual voice coil sub that likes a box to push against, and you/me are mounting it free air, it won't be very effecient. I elected to run a JL e1200 (125 rms) amp to the sub alone, and that sould give the DVC sub enough juice to pump up the bass just enough.

I'd love to hear the 8W3V2 without the sub to hear any improvement, but I'm firmly convinced a small amp is the way to go on that one.

2 Questions.

1) The sub has 4 differnet ways to wire it in (again a DVC sub with different ohm levels), how did you wire it in?

2) How did the infinity's 62.7s fit in the doors and rear deck? What did you do to get them to fit? Adapters? Trim cut the sheetmetal?

Thanks

AMIC

Here's my installation of the 62.7i's in the front doors. Not too hard.

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fs-acura-cl-tuner-wheel-gen1-151980/

beatni(c)k

yeah definitely getting a little old for the "temple of boom" and i'm still happy with this set up. i can tell you that with my last car i dreaded the day i would get a flat because that meant i had to rip out my system to get to the spare. thank god i never had to do it. my ex gf has to worry about that now. haha.

i'm sure that the 8w3v2 would sound even better with an amp, but for now i'm satisfied. who knows, somewhere down the road i may throw a little amp in there to push it.

1. well the 8w3v2 offers different voice coils, so the way you wire it will depend on what amp you use and which 8w3v2 you happen to buy. i knew that our stock amp is 2ohm. so i bought a 8w3v2 which could produce a 2ohm load and that happens to be the the 8w3v2 that has dual 4ohm voice coils. so to get the two ohm load i wired them in parallel.

2. the install is pretty easy. the doors will require you to cut the plastic casket that the oem speaker sits in. you will have to use one of the original mounting holes, then screw one more hole into the plastic. casket i could only get two screws to mount when i used one of the original holes.

for the rear deck i just drilled all new holes. the 6.5's were held in by three screws again, this time each screw mount had two little plastic nubs that stuck out to hold the speaker in place. i just cuts those off so that the new speaker could sit flush and drilled new holes. just needed to drill new holes for the sub too.

hope that answers your questions.

sunnyflava99

Damn, I wish I would have known to use a 8w3v2 instead of my 10w6v2.

I had an audio shop do my sound system. My one requirement was that I have clean sound and no thumping.

Well I am happy with my sound system, it looks kind of stock. My 10w6v2 is in the stock sub location, but, they built a huge box around it that takes up half of my trunk space . On a positive note I can access my spare and it does look clean, nothing flashy. Yes I will post pics

I've since had to put some hush mat to reduce the back shelf rattle/buzz. It does sound better, but at higher volumes there is still some rattle, I guess this is to be expected.

Anyway good job

beatni(c)k

well, the 10w6 must sound good, especially since its in a box. but a big box that takes up the truck is exactly what i didn't want. i guess you can't have everything your way. more, clean, tight, bass or no truck space.

B18DelSolT

im kinda curious, if we were to cover the hole on the bottom of the like with the 8w3v2 in the stock location, would it sound any better, or would the space between the dynomat and the sub to close for the little air to travel?

B18DelSolT

also, when putting the sub there, do you keep the rubber that surrounds the sub, or do you leave it bare metal?

KC-Dub

I think it's time to upgrade the rest of the system to go with my sub setup... doesn't seem too expensive either. ~$500 for the whole thing?

alexdjr82

Has anyone ONLY replaced the OEM amp and kept all of the OEM speakers. I haven't seen any posts on this. The JL e6450 would be the replacement amp that would work with our system. I am curious if this would provide enough increase in power to add clarity, better highs and a little more punch to our speakers, specifically mids. Any opinions or experience with this? I don't really want to revamp the whole system, I would rather just install a new amp to get a little more volume and clarity.

Thanks

I hate cars

With the 63.7s you you do not have to cut the plastic baskets. They are a direct fit if you use the right adaptor they are supplied with, with the right side facing the door. Anyone doing the tweeters should consider the new 2-ohm reference 1021 tweeters. I could not ask for better sound.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Wonder what the difference is between to more commonly reccomended 1011t tweeters? I think they're 4 ohm, which I believe is the OEM resistance.

I hate cars

I think they're the 1011 replacements but I could be wrong. I took a chance with the 2 ohm being too loud but they're a perfect match for the 63.7 doors. The other difference is they're called a "textile dome" tweeter instead of a silk dome tweeter. The sound is very nice and "real" without the metallic sound of the Kappas.

B18DelSolT

When you say this do you really mean remove the stock amp and place it in the same location, i would be willing to do something like that, i dont wanna run any wires or anything if i could use the stock ones.

B18DelSolT

do you guys think that this sub will work?

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...US&p_status=or or is it to much power?

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Might have clearance issues with that large magnet, and you definately need a aftermarket amp...........

alexdjr82

That is a good point. Yes I would love to just switch out the stock and put a new amp in the same factory location. However, I don't think the JL amp would fit in the stock location. I would at the very least like to hear if anyone has only replaced the amp. More power can do a lot. I'd like to hear what the results are if anyone has done this.

B18DelSolT

Was impatiant, and went ahead and got the sub, here are some pics, and yes its to small for the bottom hole. might have to play with the reamer lol.
here are some pics

B18DelSolT

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

RF - Mount depth of 4.625, and the base is wider won;t fit through the bottom hole.

JL 8W3v2 - Mount depth of 4.3, and 1/2 the magnet hangs out the bottom hole...

Just curious why you didn't go with a known drop in?

B18DelSolT

no one in my area has one, so i got this istead, im
a mesure how far down it will hang, and if its to much ill return it, but if not much, then ill consider reeming the bottom end. Do you think that if i ran this sub on the dtock amp it will cause some damage? or am i safe?

B18DelSolT

sorry missread your post damn, ima he to try and find smething smaller then, some places had a W0 but i was kinda like ehh

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Beatnick,

how does the setup with the sub sound without the use of an amp? I'm talking more about sound quality wise, rather than the loudness. I'm sure as you mentioned, it's a bit louder than stock, but is it still able to accurately all the notes? Or does it lack in some areas vs the stock sub?

Thanks.

rookie1011

Beatnick,

I also am planning on replacing my sub with the JL one that you did. What did you end up dynomating. And can you explain how you hooked them up parallel. Thanks.

B-

Tripnbeats

very nice....keeping stock looking is the best thing to do...I have 4 beyma 6.5's and i had to slightly mod the door panels to lock into place all the way and the rear deck i customized.... the magnets were barely fitting..... but it allllll looks stock....most importantly

Tripnbeats

I also threw in 3 JLw6v2's 10inch subs running off of a 1501db rockford.....INSANE I TELL U!

Jove

where is the best place to by all the infinity speakers? and how much did u pay for all of them?