Black0ut

Any suggestions for a remote starter? where to buy? what to get? best prices? any help would be perfection..

SickWhips08

hey everyone new here, no tl yet but workin on one. Do you just want the remote start or do u want an aftermarket alarm with it. I belive car toys has a Directed Electronics remote start w/o alarm for around $80.00. Or you could get a clifford alarm/remote start for around $500.00. Also a buddy of mine works for Cartoys so i'll ask him if he knows of anything. Hope this helps.

Black0ut

Really, I just want the remote start. Any help would be appreciated...

Pitman

I highly recommend all NYC drivers to acquire a remote start. Nothings better than having your whip nice and toasty when you enter, instead of freezing while the car warms up.

I have the Viper 791xv, which I bought from Best Buy 3 years ago for $250 + installation, now I see them selling for $180 or so.

Here a link:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=1590&affiliate=froogle&utm_source= froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle

Any ?s don't hesitate to PM me.

mattastick

^^Pitman, any idea how the 791xv compares to the 5701? That's the one I've kinda been looking at, but the place near me wants $600 for the unit+instal... Here's the link:
http://www.viper.com/P-5202V/Viper+R...e+Start+System

firstacuratl

iTrader: (2)

I can vouch for the 5701 ... uncald4 just installed it in my truck and it is an outstanding system Remote start FTW! I'll probably be getting one installed on my TL soon

Pitman

I haven't had the pleasure to use that one in person, but I've heard nothing but great things about it, especially silent mode. Its only flaw from a review is no screen, which is on the 791xv. The choice is yours, but imo why spend $600, when you can spend only $200 for virtually the same thing.

mattastick

I'm going to make a call to the place that quoted me $600 for the 5701 and ask about the 791xv...

Another question: when I was talking to the shop that I'm going to have instal it, they said that I'd need to place one of my keys in some kind of container from Viper and that if I didn't, the car wouldn't start... Something about an encoded key or something... Sounded like a bunch of BS to me, but I don't know much about car alarms/remote start... Any help here?

paliknight

yah thats how it USED TO BE. theres a way around that though. you can find it on acurazine. it has something to do with re-wiring.

nfnsquared

^^^ It's called a transponder bypass. Your key has a small electronic chip imbedded in the plastic which sends a signal to the car. The car has to detect this chip before it will allow the car to start. The old method was to hide an extra key somewhere under the dash so that the remote start would work.

The new way is an electronic transponder bypass which you can program to learn the code emitted from the key, store it, and then send it to the car each time you use the remote start. No need to hide a key any more.

There are several brands available, probably the most advanced and well know is idatalink.com or Google "transponder bypass".

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

Your key is part of a transponder security system. If the antenna in your ignition cylinder does not see the exact value of your original key while attempting to start your car will blow up. No, it won't. But the car will not start. Also, the 791XV is not a current model.

- The stupid way around this is to use a DEI 556UW and mount one of your keys inside of it. Once your remote start system triggers this 556UW it will send the correct signal to the cars transponder and your car will start.

- The better way to tackle this is just to use the correct module that does not require a key and can be programmed to the correct signal. Check out http://www.bypasskits.com for this info.

Two warnings for you future owners of remote start.....

1. Most car audio shops will use shitty parts and modules unless you specifically ask for the good parts. They do this to keep the price competitive. In the long run you will not benefit.

2. When I worked at CarToys we quoted a price for the Remote Start/Security system installed. This price did not include any needed modules, parts or additional features. Additional features include door locks, light flash, trunk pop, starter kill, additional sensors and so on. Be sure that when you get a quote it includes all necessary parts and labor for the features that you want.

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

Great Advise uncald4

Cyberdemon

So if one wanted to remote start a 6MT 3G TL, whats the best product to buy for the least amount of money and the least compromises?

I really don't need the additional alarm, but I'd live with it for the remote start.

Also how hard are these to DIY?

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

The Valet 562T is the way to go. You'll also need a transponder bypass module. I install many of these remote start systems. Awesome reliability and easy to use. It will give you remote start, keyless entry, trunk pop and parking light confirmation. The 562T is a DEI product. They are the parent company of Viper, Python and Clifford to mention a few.

nfnsquared

Compustar is the only company that I'm aware of that makes units specifically for manual transmissions. The Valet is only for auto.

Installation is a breeze with the new bypass modules. If you get a CS with a CM5000 brain, it will work with the Blade bypass modules which just plug into the alarm (no wires to connect between the bypass and remorte start unit). I think you only need to tap into 3 wires to hook the unit to the car and you don't have to get into the drivers side door panel.

There is an extra trick or two to retain your seat/mirror/preset memory settings. Not sure how to do that, but some members have made it work.

Cyberdemon

Uncald - is that true for the Viper with the Manual tranny? The descriptions I've seen online seem to indicate auto only too.

I checked with a local shop - they recommended the $400 Python 872P + a $200 install...not really looking to spend that much though.

How hard is it to install one of these? I have experience hardwiring my radar detector + laser jammers, so I'm not afraid to pull the car apart and tap into some wires. Not sure if you need a lot of wiring to get these things going.

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

All the DEI Responder LE and LC3 systems have an AUTO and MANUAL mode. This includes the Python 872P, Viper 5701 and the Clifford RSX3.3 as well as the 3 new LC3 models with LCD remotes.

$200 for the install is dirt cheap. I assume that's "basic install" pricing. Your TL is not basic and should require additional parts and labor.

I would not recommend that a "non-professional" installer attempt this type of install. You could damage components that will cost thousands to replace. Also your alarm will have no warranty if not installed by an MECP Certified Installer.

Cyberdemon

OK thanks for the info. I'll have to look around and see if I feel like spending the cash. I figure I survived last winter with the heated seats and some gloves so I wonder if it's worth it.

Thanks!

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

Answer.....
It's worth it.

haz39

so i had a 2004 honda accord with the python 881xp 2way remote start alarm blah blah blah
now i have a 2006 tl nav at and i wanna put it in i had the pkh3 module from Code Alarms which i thought would have been able to work with my TL but of course when i went to the store they tried to talk me into another alarm and wanted to charge me and arm and a leg.
they also said my alarm is old and the tl uses "can-bus" so if i install my old python i may get diagnostic errors and check engine lights and just problems so what does anyone suggest i do >
buy a new alarm with some new module? or
keep mine and just by the new interface for the acura?
and who knows a good place to install in nyc?

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

The installer/sales person that you talked to full of shite. New Honda cars use can-bus for vehicle systems diagnostics. But your 881XP is an awesome system and will work fine in the Acura. It can be hooked up traditionally without an interface module. All it needs is the ignition transponder module for Honda/Acura. It's very inexpensive to go that route. You can buy the more expensive can-bus interface that will do transponder bypass, locks, door trigger, trunk pop and alarm disarm. But it's not needed.

haz39

thanks for the reply i do want the door locks and the bypass , door trigger and trunk pop because i had it all on my honda so what is the part i need for the full package with all the extras? and do u know a good place to install?

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

I'm saying that you don't need a module to get all those features. Your alarm already has those outputs. It's just an easier install if a module is used. That's why I think your installer was trying to sell you one.

I don't know of any shops outside of my area. Sorry.

lenjaiah

iTrader: (5)

uncald4... could u name the parts i need for 07 type s. like the modules and bypasses... planning to get the compustar P2WSS-AS. and i want all the funtions to work like OEM. locks, door trigger, trunk pop, seat memory, alarm disarm, etc etc...

IncaPower

Quick question, what options do we lose if we go with this after market alarm/remote start option?

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

I really recommend DEI alarms and remote starts. Compustar makes a couple good units but there is a reason that 95% of retailers carry DEI products. I've installed my fair share of UNGO, Compustar, Code Alarm and Presitge systems but none of them come close to the reliability and performance of the DEI brand systems.

I'll give you guys the resource again for your modules but you need to do the leg work. Click and read..... www.bypasskits.com

IncaPower.... you should not lose any OEM function if the correct parts and competent installer are used.

haz39

hey pitman where did you go to get it installed ( which best buy?) i have the python version of the 791 i need a good place to get it installed

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

I install car starters on the side .. installed my 2wss-as in my '04 TL --

you'll need CAN-SL2 and HONDA-SL3 data modules -- or find one of the combo units.

Install is for PEOPLE THAT KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING AND KNOW HOW TO SOLDER -- DO NOT attempt this as a first time vehicle. I learned how to do car starters on beaters and basic vehicles... I'd rate the TL as moderate difficulty as the CAN-SL2 takes all the guess work outta hunting door lock wires in the door itself.

However, you MUST run your tach wire to the injector wire in the engine bay to get a nice start-up -- the digital tach signal off the CAN-SL2 will DESTROY your starter as it often over grinds on cold start ups since the CAN-SL2 has to emulate the tachometer signal and doesn't always give you a nice clean startup. This means drilling through your engine firewall -- another thing left to the pro's as there is VERY LITTLE room to find a good place to create a hole.

Best of luck to newbies attempting all this on their own!

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

That is quite the bogus bunch of info. Thank you!

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

LOL!

Ok -- i love it when people post replies that have no justification whatsoever -- thanks for enlightening us UNCALD4

plus, i don't know what "quite the bogus bunch of info" means... err... grammatically that is.

nfnsquared

Uncald4, PeterUbers,

The new VIPER 5901 seems to be an awesome system with D2D that will work on my 04 6MT. I've been waiting for DEI to produce a remote start that was officially designed for a MT and this is what I've been waiting for. (Almost went with Compustar, but glad I waited).

These can be had on Ebay for about $350 and I'm relatively capable of doing the install myself. (Yeah, I know, the warranty is void if not installed by a dealer. ) I don't mind spending a little extra money to minimize extra wiring. I also want to retain my seat/radio pre-set memory settings (only care about memory#1 as I am the only driver).

So here's my questions:

1. Do I need a door-lock/trunk pop module with the 5901 or does it interface directly with the Acura Can-bus to allow alarm override/door/trunk without additional modifications or modules?
2. If it doesn't, what combo bypass/door lock module do you recommend?
3. What extra steps/procedures are required to retain the memory settings?

Thanks for any info you can provide for us DIYers!

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

the 5901 will provide a -250mA output for your trunk that'll interface to Acura CAN Bus

I like the CAN-SL2 and Honda-SL3 myself, others have their own preference. The Honda-SL3 programs easily, very few hiccups. The CAN-SL2 makes the Acura a much more simple install.

If you use the CAN-SL2, the memory is retained, no extra steps necessary other than installing the CAN-SL2. The radio memory will be retained as well.

BTW, I don't mean to say that you'll have any difficulty with your install since you haven't done one before, I intended my post for people that are very nervous about this type of work and have little to no electrical experience. To each their own, I'm sure you'll do fine. Just take your time, use a voltmeter to measure voltage twice, tie and solder once.


Lemme know if you have any questions, i'm happy to help. I also frequent www. the12volt.com as well... PM with q's

oh, and run the tach to the injector --

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

btw .. the 5901 is pretty sweet, love that you can use mini-usb to recharge while you drive .. never worry about keyfob power again.

nfnsquared

Yeah, I'm really excited about it. I just found them on Ebay for $280 shipped! (that's after using a 10% off coupon.) That's a great price!!

I was reading the CAN-SL2 installation manual and it doesn't indicate that it has a transponder bypass for the TL. Is that correct? The website says it does bypass plus additional canbus control, but when you look at the feature chart in the manual, it doesn't have a "dot" for the bypass for the TL.

Also, according to the 5901 manual, they claim to have a better tach sensing feature that may preclude problems like you were describing. What do you think?

nfnsquared

Oops, OK, I get it. I need both the sl2 and the sl3.

What about the idatalink modules that do both? Will I retain the memory functions with one of those modules?

Yeah, I have a good multi-meter and am comfortable with electrical installations. I'm just a little sketchy on all the different add on requirements.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

You only need the Honda-SL3 and the CAN-SL2 --- the honda-sl2 and sl3 are just different version of the transponder bypass for the Acura immobilizer.

The CAN-SL2 does not bypass the immobilizer, you are correct. I'm not as familiar with other models, I think UCald4 could chime in on that.

Your CAN-SL2 will tie into your Acura CAn-bus wire, then you'll be able to take all the output wires (door lock/unlock, trunk pop, door pin input, etc, alarm defeat, alarm engage) from the Viper 5901 brain's harnesses and run them to the CAN-SL2. A GWR (-) (ground while running) wire will tie into the CAN-SL2 to initiate it's data transfer upon remote starting.

Your Honda-SL3 harness wires will tie into the wires on the steering column by the tranponder -- it's a small black box that has a 6 or 7 wire harness connected to it. You'll have to split two or three wires and do some tying of wires. The Honda-SL3 will ALSO have the GWR wire tie into it to initiate it's bypass of the immobilizer during the remote start initiation. I usually will measure all my wires, make my wire connections, mount the Honda-SL3 box and the CAN-SL2 box atop the remote starter brain (viper 5901 brain in your case) with 3M heavy duty sticky tape, then mount the entire unit in a hidden location (sometimes under the driver's lower dash, sometimes behind the glove box on the passenger's side).

As far as the tach -- I'm not familiar with the 5901's superior tach sensing ... but if it's using tach sensing, you still need a tachometer signal source: fuel injector wire, CAN-SL2 tach output wire, ignition coil. If you use anything other than this, it's voltage sensing, and you'd be hard pressed to find someone who would say voltage sensing is superior to tach sensing.

Per the 5900 install manual, it suggests to locate tach at ignition coil, injector wire, or other BECU tach signal wire.

firstacuratl

iTrader: (2)

I have read many of your posts and you obviously are very knowledgeable but, just an observation ... it seems like a justified statement since he installs full-time and knows his stuff. He obviously disagrees with some of your statements. He's done a helluva job on my vehicles and I'm a loyal customer ... if he didn't know his shit, he wouldn't come anywhere near my vehicles, so there is NO bias from me. I'm not a "suger-coat" kind of owner/customer. If an installer does me wrong, I have them fix it to my satisfaction and they never see my business again ... ever!

As for the grammar, there is no place for proper grammar on an internet forum ... have you read some of the posts on here lately? Cryptic, to say the least! "quite the bogus bunch of info" = "I call bullshit homie ... axe me about remote start installs on da whips and I'll school you on the ins & outs yo!"

"Just a thought, I could be wrong" -Dennis Miller

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

you're right, I was wrong to say that. I'm sorry.

I guess since Uncald4 is obviously very qualified (and I'm not sarcastic, I see his posts on this forum and read them -- he knows his stuff), I would prefer (can't always get what ya want) an informative back and forth and maybe he could really enlighten me about what he specifically disagreed with about my comment -- therefore we could all be enlightened.

But, if I offended someone, I apologize (don't see many apologies online, do ya?)

Cheers!

nfnsquared

Dude, easy goes it. No need to pick sides here.

Peter Ubers offered an observation about tach sensing based on his experience. And, he didn't attack anyone when he did it. I, for one, am a sponge looking for information about remote start systems and how they interface with our TLs. Peter Ubers gave a very good explanation supporting his information. He may be right about the tach sensing, or it may be overkill. I don't know, but I'll certainly consider it.

If Uncald4 disagrees, fine, but the rest of us could learn more by him supporting his view point rather than just saying "what a bunch of hooey". What does he recommend for tach sensing?

If Uncald4 is such an expert, I'd love to hear his take on some of my other questions as well. This forum is for learning and helping out each other. I'll take all the help I can get. The long, cold North Dakota winter is just around the corner!

firstacuratl

iTrader: (2)

Props to you for the apology ... I wasn't offended but wanted to set the record straight by sharing my personal experiences with uncald4. Nonetheless, it takes a big person to bother with an apology online ... kudos Peter Ubers