Still playing around with my speakers.... sorry for becoming a little annoying but i have some more questions.

Alpine PDX 1.600 has a selectable switch for low and high input sensitivity, so getting the preamp from the head unit wont be a problem. The Pdx 4.100 does not have that switch.... the crackling noise that i experienced when i turn on the car was almost completely eliminated by switching the RCA Cable. Basically i gotta turn the gain much more for it show up but then i get a high noise floor also.

Now im thinking two options. Buy the Rockford fosgate bld line driver and boost the signal, hoping it wont create noise issues i can have the gain very low and no noise. There is a switch on the pdx amp where I can have the front channels output a mirro signal on the other two channels as well. I was thinking to run it like that and lower the gain in the back to where i like it since i do like rear fill.

I have them all high passed at 70 herz. Lots of midbass.


The other option would be to run bridged 200x 2 to the front channels and no rear fill.

with option one i would lose the fade control but if its set to where i like it i dont have to play around with it.

the amp output 125 watts rms per the test sheet that came with the box.

Need suggestion on this. At this point sub is not an issue but i gotta take care of my speakers first.

 

win

 

I do like a little rear fill.... Feels nicer and also with just the front playing the stage is not centered that well... when having rear fill the front stage seems raised a little bit and just sounds nicer to me ....

So maybe i should go with the RF-BLD line driver for the front stage.
120x 2 watts rms

rear of off the head unit straight as i dont need much power to fill and with that no noise problems.

Sub as i said, the amp has low sensitivity input switch so thats good to go.

Im just not sure if will make a big difference if i feed the front stage much more cleaner power. being brigdged at 200watts x 2

what about the audio control matrix plus??

I really cant make up my mind

 

rear fill and center off OEM amp, front stage bridged with all the power you got running passive. sub is set. processor if you feel the need. done deal

 

Was kinda leaning towards that direction. Thanks

I bought my speakers a long time ago... which are the CDT-EF61CF components. While great speakers i had the urge for more midbass, so i picked up a pair of CDT EOS-06 midrange-midbass woofers to replace the existing. The midrange from the original set i put in as rear fill.

Will the the stock amp be sufficient to drive an mid-woofer (4ohm) of 90.0db sensitivity ?? Im assuming for rear fill it should be fine...

 

Should be fine for rear fill. I never turn mine on anyway. sometimes if I have rear passengers but usually not even then.

 

I think i got the speakers worked out... I already mentioned that i had a problem with my components sounding muddy and boomy for some reason.

I was reading on http://www.diymobileaudio.com/ for a little bit and this is what i posted on there after some questions and what not...

"I played around with my crossovers today and the polarity to hopefully get rid of that boominess from the woofers. Belive it or not by switching my tweeter polarity on the crossover i got rid of the boomy sound and the midbass souded completely different. It doesn't seem to feel very low hitting but not to far off. Its much punchier and for some reason it doesnt vibrate the door. Its much more laid back, even when you turn it up really high its not hard to listen too. So then I changed the polarity on the passenger side as well and evrything sounded much better. What i have observed is that when i move the balance to the left and sit in the passenger seat the midbass feels deeper as oppose to sitting in the drivers seat at same setting. Now when i move the balance to the right, the passenger woofer feels deeper sounding also as oppese to sitting in the passenger seat."

With the balance in center everything sound so much better.

Dont know the physics of it and why it sounds so much different just by reversing the polarity on the tweeters but it works...

why the doors dont shake as much just by switching the tweeters polarity i have no clue... but the midbass is there just not boomy and not that deep but very, very close to it. Once i put in the sub in it will make up for whatever its missing obviously.

So far i am very happy... I ordered the Rockford 2 channel line driver and will procede with the installation the way " Pohljm " mentioned.

I remembar Matt " Ihatecars " mentioning something about the same issue he had with the tweeter...i believe

 

Either you're imagining it lol, you've got the mid hooked up to the tweeter spot (not likely, but it makes sense) OR you've altered phase cancellations so that your high end is now slightly louder and you might not be hearing those vibrations. My at least

 

Everything is connected correctly, im very careful with that. I just tried switching the polarity on my tweeter per some recommendations on the web. What it did i took away is that booming sound from the woofers that were kinda drowning out the tweeter but when i switched the polarity on the tweeter connection, the stage raised and the boomy sound was gone. The doors shake, no doubt about that but i dont hear rattling noises..well i do some depending how strong the midbass is but not as much as before. Just a nice punchy deep bass. It sounds more blended.

 

Never claimed that you didn't hook it up correctly. In fact, polarity is sometimes wrong from the factory. You can use a battery to check polarity on a speaker (too scared to do it on a tweeter, but you can). Pretty much everything you described is directly related to phase though


I finally got some free time recently and it wasn't 10000 degrees down here so I played with my polarity and corrected a few things on mine also. I played with phase AND polarity though. Not the same I might add. Here's a good read: http://www.planetoftunes.com/sound/p..._and_phase.htm

 

One thing I've always noticed about phase is if it's off, the system can sound good until you try and understand the words of a song. If you really have to concentrate to understand the vocals of decent song, the phase is probably off.

 

I would say that it felt like that for a while... thats the reason i said that i wanted to fix the floor noise first, which i did by going off of the head unit for the preamp and also didnt wanna start with the IB for the sub until i had my speakers sounding right, which they never did. I can finally say that i am satisfied for now.

I belive i might ad the Ms8 down the line. but for now it sounds really good.

 

when it comes to sealing the trunk for the I.B. how far did you guys go. I will have my baffle completely sealed, the deck is all covered in sound deadening. Its sealed pretty good but the only thing i didn't seal yet are the corners below the Airbags. How did you seal that off? is sound deadening enough or should i make it more dense with something like expending foam??

if anybody can post some pictures that would be great ....

 

I know its not for everyone and I thought about it for a long time but I went with expanding foam near the rear quarters and filled up the deck. It really solidifies and seals everything and its quick and easy. My reasoning is it can't be seen with the carpet and trim in and the car will never be sold unless I give it to my niece when she turns 16 in a couple years. If I had plans to sell one day I probably wouldn't do it.

 

As long as you seal the big gaps it will be fine. I used only deadener and it worked well. I spent a lot more time sealing off the first baffle than I did with the second and I didn't notice any reduction in output. Here are some pictures:

 

^^^ Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Almost makes me wanna go 2 ID12v3's

 

Matt, i am wondering where you placed the rf-bld... Im having a hard time finding a spot for it. I saw in one of your pictures that you have it hanging behind the glove box, is there actually space for it or do you keep it in the glove box??

Thanx

 

Besides a processor, this is exactly how I have my set up.

 

Unfortunately its in the glove box and I hate any sort of compromises and visible aftermarket components. I just didn't see any other place with relatively easy adjustments considering it needs to be close to the hu to take advantage of it's noise rejection qualities. I might eventually put it behind the glove box under the dash once I settle with a different processor and won't need to adjust it for a long time.

A line driver isn't something you frequently adjust but its part of my MS8 calibration procedure.

 

Can someone confirm the output voltage on the two front channels. Mine are not the same. Left is much stronger then the right channel. I played a 1khz tone at volume 33 and measured 0.64 on the right and 1.2 on the left channel. Is something wrong with my headunit or is this normal.

No wonder i always had this problem where the left side was overwhelming the other. I confirmed the output on the amp as well. big difference.

Since i am going to bridge the amp i could raise the gain on the right a little to match the outputs.

But is this normal ??

 

Not for nothing...I think I have the same problem!!!! But I have no way on measuring like you are doing. It just seems to me the driver side is stronger and seems to be the only side to give me distortion or noise issues when jammin right at the same as you 33-34 volume. I have adj since where I have no issues, but something tells me I can get more if it is a balance issue like u are getting. Waiting on someone more pro to answer/chime in...

Better yet...Take this same and issue ? u have and post it on my GENERAL/CHAT/DISCUSSION/QUESTION thread... Trunk Monkey, I Hate Cars or Niebur3 will def answer in since they are subscribed and chime in advice, knowledge or opinions all the time with FAST responses.

 

I can why not .... but they will probably move it...

 

Huh??? Move what? Ur ?... No, its open discussion re: Everything AUDIO...Trust me...I made the thread MONTHS!!! ago and have posted 100s of questions and my build also there as well as my build thread... I was only trying to offer a suggestion that will guarantee get u a answer.

 

Here is the thread...

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/questions-chat-regarding-3g-tl-audio-designs-installs-844312/

Your "Titled" build on your IB really doesn't draw too much attention. U will def get your answer here ^

 

Ok guys i definitely have a problem with my head unit left channel. I said above that one puts out a stronger signal then the other.... i also mistyped and said that the right is weaker but its the left one...

My problem originally was that my left side always sounded muffled as oppose to the right side. Changing the tweeter polarity seemed to have helped and i thought it was a phasing issue and that it was solved but it was not. No matter what i tried the right side sounded so much cleaner and easier on the ear, just wonderful. The left side always muffled and boomy and hard to listen to.

My first approach to finding the problem was to switch the component crossovers, basically hook everything from the left speaker side to the crossover from the right, as i thought the one of the component crossovers could have been bad.
That didn't make a difference. Then I took out the tweeters and switched them around. The one on the right now with the set of the left. Also didnt help.

Last thing i did was to take the signal from the right channel and y-split it to feed both channels on the amp. Finally both side speakers sounded the same. Crisp and clear !!!

But its not a solution as im losing stereo...

Now what should i do.... obviously a factory unit as shitty as it is its not cheap. I found some for 120 and change on ebay but they look a little scratched... Im wondering if i could just change out the guts.

At one point I had cd's stuck in my unit and the dealer changed it trough warranty.
Now look what they put in.....

Should i go aftermarket or get the factory unit.

 

check MY THREAD I ALREADY OFFERED TO GET U THE HELP!!! Stop being stuborn thinking the whole world is looking at this thread when I have a OPEN audio thread for these exact issues...I posted you comment above...someone will follow with a comment. So if u wanna see what has been said or advised...go there.

 

Thank You... I do appreciate it and I do follow your thread all the time. Its actually the reason why i wanted to redo my whole install... IB being on of them. But who would think my biggest problem was the source...

 

it happens...as it was told to me, WELCOME TO AUDIO! Its never how its planned or makes sense...lol Stay tuned the my thread as I told u, I promise someone will pop up with some advise or knowledge Hope this really helps and gets u some solution. That is my only intention for u buddy.

 

That's interesting because while one channel is lower than it should be, one is higher than it should be and the sum is just right. With that information I bet the right person would know whats going on with the hu right away.

I would post this on diyma. There are a couple guys that are very familiar with the tl's hu. One of which modifies them for better sq.

 

since i have the option to run the components bridged on a 4 channel i could match the gains for output.... But the left channel signal is muddy and the left speakers connected to it sound like they have a pillow over them. Not to that extreme but you get my point...

 

Guys everything is solved ! First I must truly apologize for a mistake i made in the installation part. I really felt relived and could not believe that somehow i miss marked the the speaker wire coming from the amp into the crossover. I always pay close attention and make sure so i dont doubt myself later... but here you go...

After switching all my right side speakers and crossovers from right to left, the left drivers side still remained muffled sounding even tough on the passenger side it sounded so nice, I was so disappointed ! I started thinking that somehow it had to do with the left door speaker position but it just didnt make sense for it to sound like that. So i proceded to run a wire directly from the left speaker to the crossover, originally i spliced into the factory wiring as it would be very hard to get the new speaker wire into the doors. Anyways I connected the speaker with the new wire directly into the woofer position on the crossover, then tweeter and then of course the labeled wire from amp into the main input of the crossover, I didnt get any sound at all !!

Finally i realized it just had to be something with the wiring. And it was, when carefully tracing every wire i saw that the speaker wire coming from the amp was actually marked left side woofer and connected to the woofer position on the crossover and the left speaker was connected to the input causing all that muffled sound.

Even tough i traced my wires before i just somehow didnt notice it. Especially because i tripple check everything it never came to my mind that the wire was somehow labeled wrong. I felt stupid but so happy too

Again guys I really appreciate for the help provided and apologize for jumping to conclusion so quickly.

 

wOOOOHOOOO! Thats a great find! its usually way more simple than you would think!

 

Cool deal. Happy for ya! Now get your ass back to wk!...lol