BukvaMan

another question for you guys ... Since i wanna pick up the preamp from the headunit and the signal is a little weak, will i have any issues going directly into the 3sixty which will be located in the trunk. I would as i said solder female connects onto the wires and then run rca's to the trunk. Im doing this to hopefully get rid of the noise. So i can give my components the right amount of power.

I hate cars

Already bought 6 of them. I'm keeping two, the others are up for grabs. It could take a while, that's the only problem. The SBP15s were available immediately, the IB15s could be a couple months away.

pohljm

I am in no real hurry, but did you get the IB's? or the SBP's? I believe the IB's would be what I am after.

pohljm

Arghhhhh I only have 300w at 2 Ohm available. looks like thats not gonna work! XD700/5

I hate cars

I got the IB15s since they're 95% as good as the SBP15 and weigh 8lbs less and cost less. 300w for a pair would be plenty. I'm only running 500w total and I'm not anywhere near the amp's limits. These things see less than 50w during normal listening.

pohljm

HAHAHA! you said PAIR! I am only running one 15! I know I know, but for an older guy like me that is more than enough. So the IB's look like 4 or 8 Ohm? I dont want to have to run a pair....................I guess its 180 at 4! Paypal?

Wonder how much of a difference that would be from my Pyle PLWB15D?

stevemk07

Geez I just turned thirty two. Single ten in small sealed and sub is set to -5 on HU. I must be too young haha. Mind you I do have my bass at +2.

How does cabin gain in IB compare to sealed in back corner?

I hate cars

Lol. The IB15 should get you more displacement. It will get a lot more SPL from the same power. You can get them in 8ohm but the typical automotive version is 4 ohm. You can special order 2 ohm or anything you want. Even 150w will be plenty. It sounds crazy but you will be able to put most 1,000w 12" sealed subs to shame with 150w on one of these subs.

Of course, I wanted a pair so they would have less excursion, keeping them more linear and less distortion.

I can't say what you will gain SQ wise over the Pyles. The thing that stood out with the IB15 is that the sound does not change as you raise the volume. I did not notice this too much with my other subs but once you install one of these, due to the ultra low inductance, the TS parameters change very, very little as the stroke increases. They're just incredibly low distortion, accurate subs that are just as happy on rock and metal as they are on rap. There's a guy that flew in from New York and demo'd my car. He had a Dyn Esotar 1200 installed, known by many as THE best SQ sub on the planet but he also had a pair of IB15s in the box. He listened to mine and ended up going with the IB15s. I'm sure output had something to do with it as well but it says a lot about the IB15 to be competitive with a sub such as the Dyn. I'll see if I can get him on here to give a brief review. This was in a newer M5 fwiw.

They just do everything right. There are no weaknesses, no type of music they play better than another type. If you choose to do so, they will play well into midbass territory and sound great. I feel right now that I have a system for life, subs, midbasses, and midranges included. The tweeter may get upgraded to the 110s in the future, only time will tell.

I hate cars

I'm 35 and my system is balanced as a SQ system should be. The subs disappear in this setup. The normal volume is nothing more than a single 12 could handle easily. But again it's for the lower distortion and flatter frequency response that the pair of 15s bring. There's no reason to not do 15s as long as the space allows. All else being equal they are better than 10s in every way imaginable. The nice thing is I have the displacement to play really low material and play it with authority on the days I choose to which is about once a week. My system with it's cone area is never stressed. Excursion is always low, even when I crank on it. It sounds as clean and clear at 120db as it does at 90db.

BukvaMan

You guys wont believe it but i cant get over how the car drives and handles with the weight removed. The sub in a sealed box is at 49.5 and add to that the amps and front and rear speakers and you got close to 100lbs if not more with all the other stuff. I am really considering selling everything and put the stock back in. The stock sounds fine... I got all excited at first with ib setup but my main problem was the noise floor and the front stage that never never sounded to my expectations so i would really have to put a lot of work into getting it done and then who knows maybe end up with noise problems again. I just dont feel like doing it and i dont feel like lugging all the weight around.

I might be crazy but maybe im just not into it any more ....

rich20730

FYI - If you decide you still want those ID CXS62's there's a BNIB set on DIYMA going for $185 shipped. After seeing his other listings he will keep going lower until someone bites.

http://diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-...0-shipped.html

stevemk07

I was seriously contemplating those too but canot see them making the sound better without processing to tailor to the TL. More bass maybe... but not better.

rich20730

You can't see them sounding better than the stock speakers? I'm well aware of the principle of diminishing returns when it comes to stereo upgrades, but these speakers will sound better in every way imaginable compared to the stock speakers. From one mid level component set to another, who knows, but from stock to a good set of components I'd say it's night and day.

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

In before IHC's! "There you go again." lol

BukvaMan

Im still in it ... when i started taking of panels a saw my speakers that i put in before and comparing them to stock i just couldnt but to procede and make the best out of them. Screw performance, its just gonna get me in trouble and i know i would miss the dynamics that these speakers produce as comparing them to stock. Its a night and day diferenece as you said.

I am gonna try reinstalling my setup in a different approach and see how i like these speakers that i have. The problem is i could never power them correctly because of the high nosie floor.

By bypassing the stock amp completelly I am hoping to resolve the noise issue and feed them some good power.

I have some questions that i posted in JayVee;s thread but didnt get a reply yet ..

" I have two questions and hopefully someone can answer so i can start working on it tomorrow. Since the factory wires power up the amp, am i ok by powering the 3sixty.1 with the same exact wires or should i run a seperate power wire for the 3sixty. The 3sixty processor draws 600mA and calls for a recommended 2 amp fuse. I dont see a problem with it but i might be wrong. The good thing is that i could use the same ground and remote wire.

the second question is... if i remove the factory amp and not utilise the center channel for now at least, will i lose the HFL. I do not have navigation in my TL. The bletooth to phone i only use on long trips. "

I just need some reinsurance ...

by the way thanks for the link i appreciate it.

I hate cars

I totally believe you. I've removed the huge bandpass box when I tracked the car and left it out for a week. It feels like a go-cart in comparison.

I hate cars

You can't reason with this dude. His stock system with it's "processing" and stock speakers with a square of deadener stuck to the door sounds better than everything. Because he has never tried it, it must not be possible.

Steve, again, if you have never done it you can't comment on it. You're going to lead a noob down the wrong path speaking out of ignorance. You just stated the Armor All made the dash disappear and the highs sounded clearer. You stated dynamat on the door made the tweeters clearer. Give me a break.

I hate cars

I've never seen anyone do it but I can't see a problem with using the factory power, ground, and remote wires for the 3-sixty other than it will probably stay on for a while after you turn the ignition off since the HFL stays on for a little bit.

You can retain the HFL with your setup. Since the HFL comes out over the front speakers, not the center, there's no problems there. I have a fully functioning HFL with my MS8 and it actually sounds amazing lol. Voices come out over the 3-way fronts and subs and with a good center image lol. Contrary to what we thought earlier, the muting of the other channels is done in the HU, not the amp so no problems there. The only problem you would have is if you had the navi voice going with no center channel input into the 360. It would mute the rest of the system anytime a prompt comes up. I went on a trip one time with my system cutting out and after checking wiring I was trying to figure out what changed to make it randomly mute. I turned the navi voice off and it was fine.

In my paticular setup, the person on the other end gets an echo. The MS8 has a built in 8ms delay which basically disables the the echo prevention in the HFL software. As long as the 360 does not have a build in delay which I do not think it does you will be fine.

BukvaMan

Thanks.

I also have a fused wire with a switch going to the trunk that i use to turn on the amps... its still after the accessory postion. I did that so that if i want to i can turn off the amps completely, they do get hot sometimes even if they are not used.

I could just jump that remote wire to the 3sixty from the driver to the passenger side and not worry about that delay keeping the 3sixty on.

stevemk07

Hey I am not saying those nice componnent speakers would not sound better. After speaking with someone today I may just try putting those cxs comps on the stock processing. I have heard good speaker. I have good speakers, and the stocks work well in the TL with the processing thats there. I am just suggesting an easy thing for this guy to try. Just because it is not what you have done does not mean it is wrong.

I hate cars

Really?
More of this imaginary processing? Do you know what processing is? You think the stock speakers work good because you have never tried anything else. You have no way of knowing how they compare to anything else out there. Again, stop making up rumors about stock processing. There is none.

But just for fun, explain how the TL's "processing" is optimized for the TL. I can show you how it kills dynamics as you crank the volume up to protect the speakers which is the opposite of sound quality.

stevemk07

Waiting on information from xxx busa but I know that in my car the right side is louder than the left so unless there is a problem with my system that just turned out to be beneficial that there has been some work to optimize the sound for the driver. The passenger side still sounds okay but not close to the stereo effect experienced in the drivers seat.

pohljm

So? you believe that the stock ELS system is processed to optimize the sonic experience for the drivers seat position?

stevemk07

Basically. Processed or engineered it sounds pretty damn good with the upgrades I have done (aftermarket sub that integrates very well, more power to the front components utilizing the stock amp signal, and reducing rear wave cancellations with sound deadener at the installation location of the stock components as well as reducing energy lost through the door).

Not saying it cannot be improved upon further, just that doing these things have improved the sound substantially. Next I will likely try sealing up the big holes in the door to see how much that improces things. I nearly bit on those cxs components for 185. I know they are better speakers. Never said the stocks were better than anything else (though I did attempt to joke about them being better for rattles which IHC took as a bash on his new 10" woofers). I suppose the whole point was that there were cheaper and more effective ways to improve the sound quality in our TLs than overhauling everything.

pohljm

You did not answer my question. Do you believe that the drivers seat experience is different from the passenger seat experience due to factory processing?

stevemk07

I said basically. First word in my response. I learned today that processing is in the DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) and that there is EQ involved. Beyond that it is speculation such as different resisters in the stock components to account for the level matching. The important thing which is relevant to everything I have asserted in this forum is the stock system sounds pretty good left alone but can sound much better with the additions I mentioned previous to this post.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

This is funny lol

I hate cars

Cheaper and more effective, huh? You're unbelievable, more outrageous claims. You are at step #1 of an audio upgrade. Cheap sub in a small box and a cheap amp. You haven't even sealed the doors yet! Do yourself a favor and stop commenting on things you know nothing about. Show me a cheaper AND more effective way to do what I have done.

So for the 10th time, we have all done what you're taking forever to do. We have all seen the effects of deadening the door though I doubt anyone has stuck some deadener on the door without sealing the holes. That just blows me away that you would not seal the holes. You're taking baby steps and making outrageous claims for each step. I consider the things you're doing just basic prep work for the real installation, support items if you will. Yet you argue with the people that have done the same things you have done and are light years ahead now. No one cares about the minute difference deadener makes on stock speakers. We care that it stops rattles when we put real speakers with real power in. How can you possibly debate this stuff when you have no experience?

Stop making crazy claims and then halfass backing out or ignoring it when you're proven wrong. Do I need to remind you of this?

Originally Posted by stevemk07
I was seriously contemplating those too but canot see them making the sound better without processing to tailor to the TL. More bass maybe... but not better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevemk07
Hey I am not saying those nice componnent speakers would not sound better.

This is your style.

stevemk07

pohljm

basically? thats your definitive answer? thats just crazy talk.................

stevemk07

Oh, I see

rich20730

Cocaine is a hell of a drug!

[youtube]xKQMhLIEQWE&t=1m11s[/youtube]

stevemk07

May your systems smoke and carch fire

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=CARCH






So.........either you're calling our systems cool/hot/sexy/attractive

OR

....you want our systems to scratch their balls in public.


you choose

pohljm

More crazy talk.................

stevemk07

Hmmm.... as long as they start to smoke and
go DC... I dont care

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Maybe if I put Armor-All on my amps it will change the properties of them so they won't smoke and "go DC"??

Seems pretty magical. Maybe a layer of Armor-All and then cover that with a 1"x1" square of deadener PLUS changing the ohm load on all my speakers to make them sound different will effectively make me not "go DC".

BukvaMan

Armor All is nowadays what the Hammer used to be

BukvaMan

Ok lets get of the topic a little bit

since i proceded with the IB install I'm looking to get a new Sub, preferably an ID MAX 12".

Before i make the purchase i would like to sell my two 12" Boston G5's DVC 4ohm. They are in brand new condition. And since im a more SQ oriented guy, they were not pushed at all.

Im trying to sell them and wondering how much i can ask for two of them.

eggyhustles

2 g5's>1 idmax

hell of a downgrade imo