QUESTIONS/Chat REGARDING 3G TL AUDIO/DESIGNS/INSTALLS
01-20-2012, 02:43 PM
#81
Team Owner
Yep. Mine had a hole at 800hz and a peak at 1,600hz when I tried it as a 2-way. It's not as bad in a 3-way configuration but it's still there. Going to get pics now.
01-20-2012, 02:54 PM
#82
Be nice if I could make some headway with this and accomplish a baffle for IB tomorrow. Be REAL nice
01-21-2012, 01:09 PM
#83
I subscribed to this thread since I'm also in the process of upgrading the audio in my TL. Jerry recommended me (on diyma) the exact same setup he suggested to you. Where I'm from (Killeen, TX) I highly doubt any shop around here knows how to do an IB install. Majority of cars around here are "Donks" and "Boxes" and just have loud subs and horrible trunk rattle and are lifted with ridiculously sized wheels that cost more than the vehicle itself (/rant)
01-21-2012, 01:21 PM
#84
You should come visit South Florida, resident HOME of the word and meaning of DONKS. 
Anyway, love the products and Jerry is the fkn man...
IB seems VERY easy to build guys...if I had the IB Sub or subs already, I'd be all over this...I just still have great functioning 12's so I don't bother.
Get some cardboard and some scissors and start trimming trimming trimming until it sits flush with the rear of brace...then put it on some 3/4" mdf and cut it out with a $25 jigsaw...sand a little (NOT EVEN)...then make a smaller one to for support and for the sub to get screwed to. Bolt the whole thing to the braces...fill in areas with foam and carpet the rear of it. Not hard...
Anyway, love the products and Jerry is the fkn man...
IB seems VERY easy to build guys...if I had the IB Sub or subs already, I'd be all over this...I just still have great functioning 12's so I don't bother.
Get some cardboard and some scissors and start trimming trimming trimming until it sits flush with the rear of brace...then put it on some 3/4" mdf and cut it out with a $25 jigsaw...sand a little (NOT EVEN)...then make a smaller one to for support and for the sub to get screwed to. Bolt the whole thing to the braces...fill in areas with foam and carpet the rear of it. Not hard...
01-21-2012, 01:33 PM
#85
I subscribed to this thread since I'm also in the process of upgrading the audio in my TL. Jerry recommended me (on diyma) the exact same setup he suggested to you. Where I'm from (Killeen, TX) I highly doubt any shop around here knows how to do an IB install. Majority of cars around here are "Donks" and "Boxes" and just have loud subs and horrible trunk rattle and are lifted with ridiculously sized wheels that cost more than the vehicle itself (/rant)
Same here regarding the stereo installs. Everyone just runs with a box with subs and calls it day. I just posted a WANTED AD on DIYMA for local installer needed for a IB set up. Unfortunately, if I don't get one soon I will opt for a corner single side enclosure (uncald4). If I don't, it will just sit until I get tired of looking at it and post it FOR SALE quickly. Just how I am. When I want it, I get it! When I have it, I wanna use it...PERIOD
Last edited by JayVee; 01-21-2012 at 01:37 PM.
01-21-2012, 01:54 PM
#87
as for the stereo install...I have always been intimidated by audio and electrical stuff. I never have and I probably never will install anything that is not formatted PnP for my knowledge and skill...or lack of.
Last edited by JayVee; 01-21-2012 at 01:59 PM.
01-21-2012, 02:05 PM
#88
It's all pretty basic, man. You got juice, you got ground. Just do it right and learn how to solder and use good connectors.
About the resonator, no, that is part of it, remove that BUT, Take off your front bumper and you'll see what I mean. There's a huge intake resonator under there that the air must pass through. Takes 2 10MM bolts and some jiggling around to remove it.
About the resonator, no, that is part of it, remove that BUT, Take off your front bumper and you'll see what I mean. There's a huge intake resonator under there that the air must pass through. Takes 2 10MM bolts and some jiggling around to remove it.
01-21-2012, 02:16 PM
#89
It's all pretty basic, man. You got juice, you got ground. Just do it right and learn how to solder and use good connectors.
About the resonator, no, that is part of it, remove that BUT, Take off your front bumper and you'll see what I mean. There's a huge intake resonator under there that the air must pass through. Takes 2 10MM bolts and some jiggling around to remove it.
About the resonator, no, that is part of it, remove that BUT, Take off your front bumper and you'll see what I mean. There's a huge intake resonator under there that the air must pass through. Takes 2 10MM bolts and some jiggling around to remove it.
01-21-2012, 03:44 PM
#91
^ Nice. Honestly, the install is pretty simple. The hardest part would be the amp install and running the power wire from the battery to the trunk and running the stock wirings from the passenger kick to the trunk. Finding a good ground spot is easy and if you have a cable that already has the metal connector on it that's ready to have a bolt through it and be grounded...even easier. The good thing about this site is there are TONS of helpful people on here and there's always someone on that can help. I had never done anything like this to a car before either, but it was a great learning experience. I didn't know much as far as electrical, how to connect shit, etc etc, but it seems simple now. If you purchased an amp kit and just took it somewhere and had them install that and leave the ground and power exposed in the trunk you could easily do everything else. The baffle won't be hard at all.
I'd say pick up and amp kit online, go to home depot/Lowe's and pick up some....crap I forgot what it's called....I think it's called speed wire (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html). This wire will be used to run your wires from the kick panel to the trunk. Then pick up Premium RCA's from Monoprice.
I'd say pick up and amp kit online, go to home depot/Lowe's and pick up some....crap I forgot what it's called....I think it's called speed wire (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html). This wire will be used to run your wires from the kick panel to the trunk. Then pick up Premium RCA's from Monoprice.
The following users liked this post:
JayVee (01-22-2012)
01-21-2012, 05:09 PM
#93
Team Owner
Pictures are uploading of my IB install. I had to pull the seat back but not out of the car so they're not the best.
01-21-2012, 05:58 PM
#96
Hmmm... This is the type of info that does get me on the fence from doing a IB vs Enclosed. Any feedback is welcomed regarding the info or the 2 comparisons.
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...e-baffel_1.htm
This is also good stuff
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxes1.asp
Last edited by Steven Bell; 01-22-2012 at 07:43 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
01-21-2012, 11:01 PM
#98
Team Owner
Hmmm... This is the type of info that does get me on the fence from doing a IB vs Enclosed. Any feedback is welcomed regarding the info or the 2 comparisons.
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...e-baffel_1.htm
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...e-baffel_1.htm
Let's start with the first one:
Advantages of this design include simplicity, minimal occupation of space.
Disadvantages of this design are larger power requirement, difficulty (sometimes extreme) in completely isolating the two sides of the cone from each other, and slightly less accurate sound reproduction.
Disadvantages of this design are larger power requirement, difficulty (sometimes extreme) in completely isolating the two sides of the cone from each other, and slightly less accurate sound reproduction.
This can't be farther from the truth. Simplicity? While IB is not hard to do, it's still far easier to shove a box in the trunk.
Larger power requirement???? It's WELL known that IB is much more power efficient in the lower octaves. Generally power requirements are cut in half or less.
Slightly less accurate sound reproduction??? Wow. IB does not have much of a backwave to deal with and it does not have reflections to deal with. All else being equal, IB is not just more efficient than sealed, it's more accurate as well.
The second part states that output is limited in IB. That's a load of shit as well.
When talking sealed vs IB, the ONLY thing that determines output is subwoofer displacement. If you have the same cone area and the same excursion, output will be identical between the sealed and IB. Cone area times excursion is the only thing that determines output. IB requires half the power generally speaking to achieve the same excursion. Some people are dumb enough like the author of that article to believe that less power equals less output but if less power gets you the same excursion, output will be the same, you end up with a more efficient setup.
Now the second link. Much better but still not completely accurate. This is a well respected site but they're still wrong.
"Infinite baffle set-ups require a woofer with a beefier suspension for high power handling and one with better cone damping. This set-up will be less efficient in reproducing the lowest frequencies as compared to other second order or higher enclosures."
IB does not require a woofer with a "beefier suspension for high power handling". I don't know why this is so hard for seemingly smart people to comprehend....
Sure, you can throw a super stiff suspension on an IB sub and make it handle more power. What you just achieved is inefficiency. The stiff suspension requires more power to achieve the same excursion making the sub less efficient.
Remember that excursion determines output so sure, now your sub can handle more power with a stiff suspension but it now REQUIRES more power to achieve the same excursion and output. Why not have a sub with a soft suspension that will raise efficiency, use it in an IB setup that removes the airspring which also greatly raises efficiency, and turn your gains down to compensate for the added efficiency and enjoy great output.
That's such a backwards way of thinking. You don't make the sub super inefficient in order to handle a lot of power, you turn the power down on an efficient sub and enjoy the same SPL as the inefficient one at double the power. Why not just flip the sub upside down and put a brick on the cone to increase power handling, it's doing the same thing as adding a stiffer suspension.
I can prove that IB subs usually do not have a stiffer suspension. In the TS parameters of various subs, look at the Cms value. This is the stiffness of the suspension. A higher value is a "looser" suspension. A lower value is a stiffer suspension.
My IB15a has a Cms value of .35.
A Tempest X (15") is .28.
Crystal 15" .128
Those are the first ones I could dig up but look for yourself and compare to the IB15. It's going to be hard to find another sub with a softer suspension.
The IB15a is so loose that when I first got mine, I thought something was wrong with them. They move super easy with the slightest push. I was actually worried there was a mechanical defect until I powered them up. They're dedicated IB subs with a very soft suspension. The motor does the work. The motor controls the cone. The suspension just centers the cone.
The only exception is in a good IB sub the suspension will act as a brake when you push them too hard. The IB15 has this as well. The suspension is super soft but when you exceed the safe excursion limits, it will pull tight and stop the sub from killing itself by slamming the voice coil on the back plate. This feature is nice but not absolutely necessary. It did same me once when I sent 1,000w on a 10hz test tone through one by accident.
I ran my JL 12W6 IB and absolutely loved it. It's still just about the best sounding sub setup I've ever heard. It was not made for IB, the JL tech told me not to use it IB and I'm so glad I didn't listen or I would have missed out.
I just modeled a 12W7 in IB and to achieve the same output at 20hz in the factory recommended sealed vs IB, it required 1,200w to hit full excursion in sealed, 650w in IB. At 30hz, IB required 400w less. At 40hz, IB required 200w less and from 50hz and up they were about the same.
Believe me, you have nothing to worry about. IB is more power efficient, will sound better (usually), will take up very little trunk space, and will go lower than anything you've likely heard. It's something many people don't understand so they will talk bad about it. Since the shop's owner has an IB setup, I'm sure you can listen to his to put to rest any doubts.
The following users liked this post:
JayVee (01-22-2012)
01-22-2012, 08:32 AM
#99
Yes, I am trying to my last option exhausted to get this done because I do have faith on the lil info I have heard regarding the IB set up. I also believe somewhat u said ppl don't know about it because they haven't seen it, worked on it, heard em the right way...etc. Sorta like the saying, "YOU FEAR WHAT YOU DON'T KNOW." I think this is prime example of the O'so ScArY IB set up. As I said, hope this one shop (last shop available locally) is my answer due to experience with IB's I will follow up and inform you guys of my progress Tues. when I vist their shop.
No No...I am 100% full throttle until I hit a wall with my options...Then I will do a corner mount ported encloser.
Good read BTW...
Can anyone recommend a good efficient LOC for my system listed? I been looking at (listed from cheapest to most expensive...) STINGER, JL and AUDIO CONTROL... any others recommended lmk. I would like to purchase one to add to the quality of the system and providing the RCA opts. Thanks again!
I will follow up and inform you guys of my progress Tues. when I vist their shop.No No...I am 100% full throttle until I hit a wall with my options...Then I will do a corner mount ported encloser.
Both sites are wrong but the first one is a joke. It's actually been posted several times as a joke because the info is soooo far off. It just goes to show that you can post anything on the internet, make it look decent, and people will believe it.
Let's start with the first one:
This can't be farther from the truth. Simplicity? While IB is not hard to do, it's still far easier to shove a box in the trunk.
Larger power requirement???? It's WELL known that IB is much more power efficient in the lower octaves. Generally power requirements are cut in half or less.
Slightly less accurate sound reproduction??? Wow. IB does not have much of a backwave to deal with and it does not have reflections to deal with. All else being equal, IB is not just more efficient than sealed, it's more accurate as well.
The second part states that output is limited in IB. That's a load of shit as well.
When talking sealed vs IB, the ONLY thing that determines output is subwoofer displacement. If you have the same cone area and the same excursion, output will be identical between the sealed and IB. Cone area times excursion is the only thing that determines output. IB requires half the power generally speaking to achieve the same excursion. Some people are dumb enough like the author of that article to believe that less power equals less output but if less power gets you the same excursion, output will be the same, you end up with a more efficient setup.
Now the second link. Much better but still not completely accurate. This is a well respected site but they're still wrong.
"Infinite baffle set-ups require a woofer with a beefier suspension for high power handling and one with better cone damping. This set-up will be less efficient in reproducing the lowest frequencies as compared to other second order or higher enclosures."
IB does not require a woofer with a "beefier suspension for high power handling". I don't know why this is so hard for seemingly smart people to comprehend....
Sure, you can throw a super stiff suspension on an IB sub and make it handle more power. What you just achieved is inefficiency. The stiff suspension requires more power to achieve the same excursion making the sub less efficient.
Remember that excursion determines output so sure, now your sub can handle more power with a stiff suspension but it now REQUIRES more power to achieve the same excursion and output. Why not have a sub with a soft suspension that will raise efficiency, use it in an IB setup that removes the airspring which also greatly raises efficiency, and turn your gains down to compensate for the added efficiency and enjoy great output.
That's such a backwards way of thinking. You don't make the sub super inefficient in order to handle a lot of power, you turn the power down on an efficient sub and enjoy the same SPL as the inefficient one at double the power. Why not just flip the sub upside down and put a brick on the cone to increase power handling, it's doing the same thing as adding a stiffer suspension.
I can prove that IB subs usually do not have a stiffer suspension. In the TS parameters of various subs, look at the Cms value. This is the stiffness of the suspension. A higher value is a "looser" suspension. A lower value is a stiffer suspension.
My IB15a has a Cms value of .35.
A Tempest X (15") is .28.
Crystal 15" .128
Those are the first ones I could dig up but look for yourself and compare to the IB15. It's going to be hard to find another sub with a softer suspension.
The IB15a is so loose that when I first got mine, I thought something was wrong with them. They move super easy with the slightest push. I was actually worried there was a mechanical defect until I powered them up. They're dedicated IB subs with a very soft suspension. The motor does the work. The motor controls the cone. The suspension just centers the cone.
The only exception is in a good IB sub the suspension will act as a brake when you push them too hard. The IB15 has this as well. The suspension is super soft but when you exceed the safe excursion limits, it will pull tight and stop the sub from killing itself by slamming the voice coil on the back plate. This feature is nice but not absolutely necessary. It did same me once when I sent 1,000w on a 10hz test tone through one by accident.
I ran my JL 12W6 IB and absolutely loved it. It's still just about the best sounding sub setup I've ever heard. It was not made for IB, the JL tech told me not to use it IB and I'm so glad I didn't listen or I would have missed out.
I just modeled a 12W7 in IB and to achieve the same output at 20hz in the factory recommended sealed vs IB, it required 1,200w to hit full excursion in sealed, 650w in IB. At 30hz, IB required 400w less. At 40hz, IB required 200w less and from 50hz and up they were about the same.
Believe me, you have nothing to worry about. IB is more power efficient, will sound better (usually), will take up very little trunk space, and will go lower than anything you've likely heard. It's something many people don't understand so they will talk bad about it. Since the shop's owner has an IB setup, I'm sure you can listen to his to put to rest any doubts.
Let's start with the first one:
Advantages of this design include simplicity, minimal occupation of space.
Disadvantages of this design are larger power requirement, difficulty (sometimes extreme) in completely isolating the two sides of the cone from each other, and slightly less accurate sound reproduction.
Disadvantages of this design are larger power requirement, difficulty (sometimes extreme) in completely isolating the two sides of the cone from each other, and slightly less accurate sound reproduction.
This can't be farther from the truth. Simplicity? While IB is not hard to do, it's still far easier to shove a box in the trunk.
Larger power requirement???? It's WELL known that IB is much more power efficient in the lower octaves. Generally power requirements are cut in half or less.
Slightly less accurate sound reproduction??? Wow. IB does not have much of a backwave to deal with and it does not have reflections to deal with. All else being equal, IB is not just more efficient than sealed, it's more accurate as well.
The second part states that output is limited in IB. That's a load of shit as well.
When talking sealed vs IB, the ONLY thing that determines output is subwoofer displacement. If you have the same cone area and the same excursion, output will be identical between the sealed and IB. Cone area times excursion is the only thing that determines output. IB requires half the power generally speaking to achieve the same excursion. Some people are dumb enough like the author of that article to believe that less power equals less output but if less power gets you the same excursion, output will be the same, you end up with a more efficient setup.
Now the second link. Much better but still not completely accurate. This is a well respected site but they're still wrong.
"Infinite baffle set-ups require a woofer with a beefier suspension for high power handling and one with better cone damping. This set-up will be less efficient in reproducing the lowest frequencies as compared to other second order or higher enclosures."
IB does not require a woofer with a "beefier suspension for high power handling". I don't know why this is so hard for seemingly smart people to comprehend....
Sure, you can throw a super stiff suspension on an IB sub and make it handle more power. What you just achieved is inefficiency. The stiff suspension requires more power to achieve the same excursion making the sub less efficient.
Remember that excursion determines output so sure, now your sub can handle more power with a stiff suspension but it now REQUIRES more power to achieve the same excursion and output. Why not have a sub with a soft suspension that will raise efficiency, use it in an IB setup that removes the airspring which also greatly raises efficiency, and turn your gains down to compensate for the added efficiency and enjoy great output.
That's such a backwards way of thinking. You don't make the sub super inefficient in order to handle a lot of power, you turn the power down on an efficient sub and enjoy the same SPL as the inefficient one at double the power. Why not just flip the sub upside down and put a brick on the cone to increase power handling, it's doing the same thing as adding a stiffer suspension.
I can prove that IB subs usually do not have a stiffer suspension. In the TS parameters of various subs, look at the Cms value. This is the stiffness of the suspension. A higher value is a "looser" suspension. A lower value is a stiffer suspension.
My IB15a has a Cms value of .35.
A Tempest X (15") is .28.
Crystal 15" .128
Those are the first ones I could dig up but look for yourself and compare to the IB15. It's going to be hard to find another sub with a softer suspension.
The IB15a is so loose that when I first got mine, I thought something was wrong with them. They move super easy with the slightest push. I was actually worried there was a mechanical defect until I powered them up. They're dedicated IB subs with a very soft suspension. The motor does the work. The motor controls the cone. The suspension just centers the cone.
The only exception is in a good IB sub the suspension will act as a brake when you push them too hard. The IB15 has this as well. The suspension is super soft but when you exceed the safe excursion limits, it will pull tight and stop the sub from killing itself by slamming the voice coil on the back plate. This feature is nice but not absolutely necessary. It did same me once when I sent 1,000w on a 10hz test tone through one by accident.
I ran my JL 12W6 IB and absolutely loved it. It's still just about the best sounding sub setup I've ever heard. It was not made for IB, the JL tech told me not to use it IB and I'm so glad I didn't listen or I would have missed out.
I just modeled a 12W7 in IB and to achieve the same output at 20hz in the factory recommended sealed vs IB, it required 1,200w to hit full excursion in sealed, 650w in IB. At 30hz, IB required 400w less. At 40hz, IB required 200w less and from 50hz and up they were about the same.
Believe me, you have nothing to worry about. IB is more power efficient, will sound better (usually), will take up very little trunk space, and will go lower than anything you've likely heard. It's something many people don't understand so they will talk bad about it. Since the shop's owner has an IB setup, I'm sure you can listen to his to put to rest any doubts.
Can anyone recommend a good efficient LOC for my system listed? I been looking at (listed from cheapest to most expensive...) STINGER, JL and AUDIO CONTROL... any others recommended lmk. I would like to purchase one to add to the quality of the system and providing the RCA opts. Thanks again!
Last edited by Steven Bell; 01-22-2012 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
The following users liked this post:
JayVee (01-22-2012)
01-22-2012, 11:03 AM
#101
Btw... Audio Control is 6ch ranging $170-200...is that needed? Not so much the price but the CH? And as for the RF 3sixty that is 2ch? Correct? Should I be looking into buying a 2 or 4ch or more...IDK
BTW... I just want to post a side note and THANK all that has been sharing their knowledge and opinions. When all said and done, I will be sure to mention a "SHOUT OUT" on my build thread to each and everyone who has helped and guided me along the way of this lost and confused subject regarding car audio...
as shown on my "cheap drawn up but u get the idea drawing" yes, I will be runing front stage speakers and sub with the amp and deck speakers of stock HU/amp power. I will look into the models. Thanks TM!
Btw... Audio Control is 6ch ranging $170-200...is that needed? Not so much the price but the CH? And as for the RF 3sixty that is 2ch? Correct? Should I be looking into buying a 2 or 4ch or more...IDK
Btw... Audio Control is 6ch ranging $170-200...is that needed? Not so much the price but the CH? And as for the RF 3sixty that is 2ch? Correct? Should I be looking into buying a 2 or 4ch or more...IDK
Last edited by Steven Bell; 01-22-2012 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
01-22-2012, 12:38 PM
#103
+1 Anyone know why the big price difference between the 2 models? What options seperate then from the other? Probably for my needs, I am sure BOTH are perfect, which means, the AUDIO CONTROL would be best by price from my stand point.
Last edited by JayVee; 01-22-2012 at 12:40 PM.
01-22-2012, 01:29 PM
#104
Audiocontrol Matrix:
Can be found at $75-150
Basically a line driver that will also convert our balanced signal to a usable unbalanced signal
...that's it
RF 3sixty.2:
Can be found for $200-250 (picked mine up for $200 shipped..they can be had on DIYMA all the time)
Line Driver
Time Alignment
31 band EQ on all channels and I wanna say 16 or 8 band EQ on sub
Active capability
Full control of x-over's & slopes
So yeah..the 3sixty.2 is definitely a better buy if you can swing the extra $75-100
Can be found at $75-150
Basically a line driver that will also convert our balanced signal to a usable unbalanced signal
...that's it
RF 3sixty.2:
Can be found for $200-250 (picked mine up for $200 shipped..they can be had on DIYMA all the time)
Line Driver
Time Alignment
31 band EQ on all channels and I wanna say 16 or 8 band EQ on sub
Active capability
Full control of x-over's & slopes
So yeah..the 3sixty.2 is definitely a better buy if you can swing the extra $75-100
01-22-2012, 01:41 PM
#105
Audiocontrol Matrix:
Can be found at $75-150
Basically a line driver that will also convert our balanced signal to a usable unbalanced signal
...that's it
RF 3sixty.2:
Can be found for $200-250 (picked mine up for $200 shipped..they can be had on DIYMA all the time)
Line Driver
Time Alignment
31 band EQ on all channels and I wanna say 16 or 8 band EQ on sub
Active capability
Full control of x-over's & slopes
So yeah..the 3sixty.2 is definitely a better buy if you can swing the extra $75-100
Can be found at $75-150
Basically a line driver that will also convert our balanced signal to a usable unbalanced signal
...that's it
RF 3sixty.2:
Can be found for $200-250 (picked mine up for $200 shipped..they can be had on DIYMA all the time)
Line Driver
Time Alignment
31 band EQ on all channels and I wanna say 16 or 8 band EQ on sub
Active capability
Full control of x-over's & slopes
So yeah..the 3sixty.2 is definitely a better buy if you can swing the extra $75-100
Def sounds like more opts and capabilities for a few bucks more.Anyone else wants to chime in, you are more the welcomed. After all, that is what this thread has become. Upgrading not only mine but the TL in general with all the gurus insights and opinions regarding sounds in the TL. Thanks!
Last edited by JayVee; 01-22-2012 at 01:44 PM.
01-22-2012, 07:03 PM
#107
Team Owner
Did you see the IB pics I finally posted? I hope they helped, I know they aren't that detailed but there isn't a whole lot to see.
01-22-2012, 07:15 PM
#108
...and I didn't see the pics. I will look for em
01-22-2012, 07:19 PM
#109
Team Owner
I know I know...MS-8 is the shyt! But I don't have...or willing to spend MS-8 money. I also believe for what I HAVE...MS-8 is too much and rather "OVER KILL" IMO... So since I have or seem to be a entry level mid-grade good quality budget system, I just need something that fits the bill. Agree?
...and I didn't see the pics. I will look for em
...and I didn't see the pics. I will look for em
With everything put back together you can't tell there's a system in there even with the trunk open.
MS8 is neat especially for a beginner or if you're interested in 2 seat sound where it can give the best compromise for passenger and driver at the same time. I didn't realize the other processors were that cheap, I've been meaning to try one out for a while now.
01-22-2012, 07:35 PM
#110
I posted them in this old thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828032
With everything put back together you can't tell there's a system in there even with the trunk open.
MS8 is neat especially for a beginner or if you're interested in 2 seat sound where it can give the best compromise for passenger and driver at the same time. I didn't realize the other processors were that cheap, I've been meaning to try one out for a while now.
With everything put back together you can't tell there's a system in there even with the trunk open.
MS8 is neat especially for a beginner or if you're interested in 2 seat sound where it can give the best compromise for passenger and driver at the same time. I didn't realize the other processors were that cheap, I've been meaning to try one out for a while now.
01-22-2012, 07:43 PM
#111
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
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Guys, please remember to use the Multi-Quote button in the lower right hand corner of each post. It's the middle button....thanks!
01-22-2012, 07:49 PM
#112
Ahhhh hell! Just as I got the QUOTE button down now there is a "MULTI-QUOTE!?"
Geeeeez Steve!!! 
...as for a posted ad in DIYMA, I have to pay $30 to upgrade to post in the CLASSIFIED section. I am not a audio head or sound junkie and don't have any attentions to swapping, buying, upgrading...etc for that to be worth it. I have all I need with the exception of a LOC now. IDK, imo.
Last edited by JayVee; 01-22-2012 at 07:52 PM.
01-22-2012, 07:58 PM
#113
Team Owner
I just saw it and posted in your thread. How can you "NOT TELL" from the trunk. That brings up a interesting fact and yet, another rookie dumb question. Do you guys add a back wall encloure to the rear? or is it only a wall cover? I noticed Jerry did the same but showing his magnet. So I didn't understand how is it free air IB if its closed off as if a enclosed box again... Sorry, I did say its another dumb rookie question. But if I don't know, I always ask regardless. THANKS!
01-22-2012, 08:19 PM
#114
Ahhhh hell! Just as I got the QUOTE button down now there is a "MULTI-QUOTE!?" Geeeeez Steve!!!
...as for a posted ad in DIYMA, I have to pay $30 to upgrade to post in the CLASSIFIED section. I am not a audio head or sound junkie and don't have any attentions to swapping, buying, upgrading...etc for that to be worth it. I have all I need with the exception of a LOC now. IDK, imo.
Geeeeez Steve!!! ...as for a posted ad in DIYMA, I have to pay $30 to upgrade to post in the CLASSIFIED section. I am not a audio head or sound junkie and don't have any attentions to swapping, buying, upgrading...etc for that to be worth it. I have all I need with the exception of a LOC now. IDK, imo.
01-22-2012, 09:06 PM
#117
I have a cover that goes behind the subs that incorporates the factory plastic skipass door in it. Just a light wooden frame and a very thin material that looks pretty close to factory held in with velcro. It looks like a factory trunk but 7" shorter. I can take it out when I need every last bit of space but it's nice when I have to open the trunk with people around so no one knows I have subs back there. Air passes through it no problem so it has no effect on the subs like a box would.
I have a long way to go.Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh... I see how u do it now!!! Ok STEVEN BELL...I got it!
01-22-2012, 09:39 PM
#118
Team Owner
Don't feel bad, it took me 3 years to find the button.
01-22-2012, 10:20 PM
#119
I just saw it and posted in your thread. How can you "NOT TELL" from the trunk. That brings up a interesting fact and yet, another rookie dumb question. Do you guys add a back wall encloure to the rear? or is it only a wall cover? I noticed Jerry did the same but showing his magnet. So I didn't understand how is it free air IB if its closed off as if a enclosed box again... Sorry, I did say its another dumb rookie question. But if I don't know, I always ask regardless. THANKS!
01-22-2012, 10:28 PM
#120
Team Owner
Hey Jerry, any kind of a special deal if I buy 3 of those 1200s? Like buy 1 get 2 free lol. Seriously though, I'm considering one to try out in the GF's car for my own selfish reasons.