QUESTIONS/Chat REGARDING 3G TL AUDIO/DESIGNS/INSTALLS
01-13-2012, 04:34 AM
#1
QUESTIONS/Chat REGARDING 3G TL AUDIO/DESIGNS/INSTALLS
OK, So I randomly stopped at a well known car stero/audio shop (DIVINE SOUNDS) here in Tampa, Fl. and I was asking what could they do to possibly just give me some nice punch within and crisp clean sound... Not neccessarily hearing me for blocks and blocks...But something NICE!... Well, by the time the conversation was done with one of the techs he drew out a complete overhaul of every component within the OEM TL. Custom installed plate w/Double Din DVD/Navi Pioneer unit, RF/Rockford Fosgate P3 (I believe it model was called) 10in sub in a bandpass box, and replacing all the Hi's and Mids 6.5's and tweetes, powered by 2 RF amps... All and all, very NICE set up... But DAM! $2000.00 INSTALLED! 
Idk if I wanted to go that deep into sound... I was more in the line of maybe doing all of that minus the double din unit or something in the realm.
So, my question is... Is it possible to have such a nice set up or system while maintaining the factory head unit? I kinda want to keep the OEM unit so I can still maintain the steering control opts and stuff... Or is it true ITS POSSIBLE but it just won't sound as good? IMO how is that possible when the untit is ONLY acting as a controller and NOT! a power source since everything will be driven off amps?...or am I misunderstanding something?
Like I said above, I want something with some NICE punch crisp clean sound while maintaining maximum cargo space in the trunk and OEM head unit... Is this all possible? Or what would be best for what I am wanting from my sound and car? Has anyone replaced or installed a sub with amo only? Allowing you to remove the bass from the remaining speakers to obtain minimum distortion and allow the sub to apply the thump? Any opinions are helpful and appreciated... I am far from being a sound system guru but I know what I want out of it. Thanks!
Idk if I wanted to go that deep into sound... I was more in the line of maybe doing all of that minus the double din unit or something in the realm. So, my question is... Is it possible to have such a nice set up or system while maintaining the factory head unit? I kinda want to keep the OEM unit so I can still maintain the steering control opts and stuff... Or is it true ITS POSSIBLE but it just won't sound as good? IMO how is that possible when the untit is ONLY acting as a controller and NOT! a power source since everything will be driven off amps?...or am I misunderstanding something?
Like I said above, I want something with some NICE punch crisp clean sound while maintaining maximum cargo space in the trunk and OEM head unit... Is this all possible? Or what would be best for what I am wanting from my sound and car? Has anyone replaced or installed a sub with amo only? Allowing you to remove the bass from the remaining speakers to obtain minimum distortion and allow the sub to apply the thump? Any opinions are helpful and appreciated... I am far from being a sound system guru but I know what I want out of it. Thanks!
Last edited by JayVee; 01-13-2012 at 04:41 AM.
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UA6Momo (01-21-2012)
01-13-2012, 08:43 AM
#3
Yeah...NP bro...Not rude... I did search and found many topics and issues and installs but specifically I didn't find anyone answering or describing the quality of sound if leaving the head unit and all that... But I did find ppl only adding a sub and a amp but really nothing after that or comparing it to switching out the head unit with a sub and amp or any of the combinations...U know? Maybe it was me... But just didn't see it...Sorry
01-13-2012, 09:06 AM
#4
First of all, the Head Unit is way more than just a "controller". It is what is reading the music off the disc and converting the digital information to an analog signal that can be eventually sent out to the speakers....so yes, a poor Head Unit can ruin the system from the get go.
With that said, YES you can use the factory Head Unit in the TL and achieve the sound you are looking for. As long as you aren't wanting features in the new Head Unit that aren't currently present in your car, you should keep the relatively good Head Unit this car has.
FWIW, I personally wouldn't let them touch making a custom mounting kit for the dash of this car unless they have pics of another one they have done. It is very tricky and can easily look like shit.
I would focus as much money as you can on the front stage (6.5 for doors and tweeters) as this is the most important for what you are trying to achieve. I would also consider a sealed enclosure or Infinite Baffle setup for your sub....bandpass is probably a prefab box and will sound like shit.
As far as brands go, Rockford Fosgate is well, not what they were in the 90's. I would consider using their amps and maybe the subwoofer, but for front stage speakers, I would go with Hybrid Audio Technologies, Rainbow or Image Dynamics (also would recommend Image Dynamics Subs).
To meet your stated needs/wants, I would go for Image Dynamics Sub(s) in Infinite Baffle. You will need to replace at least just your front speakers for more output (the factory speakers just can't take the power) and I would personally go with either the Hybrid Audio or Image Dynamics front speakers (unless you want high end Dynaudio for fronts, $990 MSRP for a 2-way, but the last set you will ever buy). I would get 2 amps, 1 for the Sub(s) and 1 for the front stage and call it a day!
Anyway....my .02
If you want to discuss over the phone, let me know and we can chat. I'll fill your head with more info then you will ever want....lol!
With that said, YES you can use the factory Head Unit in the TL and achieve the sound you are looking for. As long as you aren't wanting features in the new Head Unit that aren't currently present in your car, you should keep the relatively good Head Unit this car has.
FWIW, I personally wouldn't let them touch making a custom mounting kit for the dash of this car unless they have pics of another one they have done. It is very tricky and can easily look like shit.
I would focus as much money as you can on the front stage (6.5 for doors and tweeters) as this is the most important for what you are trying to achieve. I would also consider a sealed enclosure or Infinite Baffle setup for your sub....bandpass is probably a prefab box and will sound like shit.
As far as brands go, Rockford Fosgate is well, not what they were in the 90's. I would consider using their amps and maybe the subwoofer, but for front stage speakers, I would go with Hybrid Audio Technologies, Rainbow or Image Dynamics (also would recommend Image Dynamics Subs).
To meet your stated needs/wants, I would go for Image Dynamics Sub(s) in Infinite Baffle. You will need to replace at least just your front speakers for more output (the factory speakers just can't take the power) and I would personally go with either the Hybrid Audio or Image Dynamics front speakers (unless you want high end Dynaudio for fronts, $990 MSRP for a 2-way, but the last set you will ever buy). I would get 2 amps, 1 for the Sub(s) and 1 for the front stage and call it a day!
Anyway....my .02
If you want to discuss over the phone, let me know and we can chat. I'll fill your head with more info then you will ever want....lol!
Last edited by niebur3; 01-13-2012 at 09:15 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by niebur3:
01-13-2012, 09:40 AM
#5
First of all, the Head Unit is way more than just a "controller". It is what is reading the music off the disc and converting the digital information to an analog signal that can be eventually sent out to the speakers....so yes, a poor Head Unit can ruin the system from the get go.
With that said, YES you can use the factory Head Unit in the TL and achieve the sound you are looking for. As long as you aren't wanting features in the new Head Unit that aren't currently present in your car, you should keep the relatively good Head Unit this car has.
FWIW, I personally wouldn't let them touch making a custom mounting kit for the dash of this car unless they have pics of another one they have done. It is very tricky and can easily look like shit.
I would focus as much money as you can on the front stage (6.5 for doors and tweeters) as this is the most important for what you are trying to achieve. I would also consider a sealed enclosure or Infinite Baffle setup for your sub....bandpass is probably a prefab box and will sound like shit.
As far as brands go, Rockford Fosgate is well, not what they were in the 90's. I would consider using their amps and maybe the subwoofer, but for front stage speakers, I would go with Hybrid Audio Technologies, Rainbow or Image Dynamics (also would recommend Image Dynamics Subs).
To meet your stated needs/wants, I would go for Image Dynamics Sub(s) in Infinite Baffle. You will need to replace at least just your front speakers for more output (the factory speakers just can't take the power) and I would personally go with either the Hybrid Audio or Image Dynamics front speakers (unless you want high end Dynaudio for fronts, $990 MSRP for a 2-way, but the last set you will ever buy). I would get 2 amps, 1 for the Sub(s) and 1 for the front stage and call it a day!
Anyway....my .02
If you want to discuss over the phone, let me know and we can chat. I'll fill your head with more info then you will ever want....lol!
With that said, YES you can use the factory Head Unit in the TL and achieve the sound you are looking for. As long as you aren't wanting features in the new Head Unit that aren't currently present in your car, you should keep the relatively good Head Unit this car has.
FWIW, I personally wouldn't let them touch making a custom mounting kit for the dash of this car unless they have pics of another one they have done. It is very tricky and can easily look like shit.
I would focus as much money as you can on the front stage (6.5 for doors and tweeters) as this is the most important for what you are trying to achieve. I would also consider a sealed enclosure or Infinite Baffle setup for your sub....bandpass is probably a prefab box and will sound like shit.
As far as brands go, Rockford Fosgate is well, not what they were in the 90's. I would consider using their amps and maybe the subwoofer, but for front stage speakers, I would go with Hybrid Audio Technologies, Rainbow or Image Dynamics (also would recommend Image Dynamics Subs).
To meet your stated needs/wants, I would go for Image Dynamics Sub(s) in Infinite Baffle. You will need to replace at least just your front speakers for more output (the factory speakers just can't take the power) and I would personally go with either the Hybrid Audio or Image Dynamics front speakers (unless you want high end Dynaudio for fronts, $990 MSRP for a 2-way, but the last set you will ever buy). I would get 2 amps, 1 for the Sub(s) and 1 for the front stage and call it a day!
Anyway....my .02
If you want to discuss over the phone, let me know and we can chat. I'll fill your head with more info then you will ever want....lol!
And further, so you are advising to change the front (top dash) and door speakers in addition to 2 amps and a sub... What about the rear deck panel speakers? (Like the existing sub there and the 2 side speakers?)
again...Thanks alot! U really helped in directing to a smarter purchase(s) then a overwelming and overkill buy. I knew there was a way to get alot of nice sound and quality
without spending $2000!!! And I knew u guys would tell me just how
01-13-2012, 10:22 AM
#6
No problem. The rear sub will be disconnected in this setup and the rear speakers can be there, I would personally just run them off the factory amp for a little rear fill. You may get away with 1 amp for the front stage and sub depending on what you decide to get for speakers. Matching power requirements with power available will yield you the best results.
Again, you can either spend less money or spend the same, but get a much better system. Your choice! Also, feel free to contact me if you need more options or some pricing.
Again, you can either spend less money or spend the same, but get a much better system. Your choice! Also, feel free to contact me if you need more options or some pricing.
01-13-2012, 10:37 AM
#7
No problem. The rear sub will be disconnected in this setup and the rear speakers can be there, I would personally just run them off the factory amp for a little rear fill. You may get away with 1 amp for the front stage and sub depending on what you decide to get for speakers. Matching power requirements with power available will yield you the best results.
Again, you can either spend less money or spend the same, but get a much better system. Your choice! Also, feel free to contact me if you need more options or some pricing.
Again, you can either spend less money or spend the same, but get a much better system. Your choice! Also, feel free to contact me if you need more options or some pricing.
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01-13-2012, 11:07 AM
#8
Got The Midas Touch
I would definitely listen to neibur3! And just to add on yes you can use stock head unit, although disclaimer that some (like myself) have encountered problems with noise entering the system, mine is a problem where I soldered onto the factory amp inputs I'm still working on getting all the noise out. Our factory head unit also puts out a balanced signal so you would need to find amps that accept balanced or buy something that turns the signal to unbalanced before going to your amp (like a Rockford Fosgate RF-BLD). Another route would be to add in a sound processor such as a Rockford Fosgate 360.2 or a JBL MS8, etc to process the signal post headunit to the amplifiers. Punch P3 woofers are ok, they make noise and go loud but that's about it, I changed my 12" P3 sub out for an Image Dynamics IDQ12 and wow the sound is night and day the Image Dynamics is precise clear bass compared to the Punch basically just making noise.
01-13-2012, 03:20 PM
#9
OK... so I stopped at another car stereo shop and TOLD them what I would like to do instead of them TELLING me what they wanted to do... And low and behold, one of my high school friends runs the audio & install dept and he laughed! when I told him what the OTHER shop said, drew up as a plan and cost... He then said, he would be able to not only beat their price and NOT need to re-do the entire audio in car car just as I was asking but to also gaurantee BETTER SOUND & QUALITY!... Interesting, right? Yeah, I was the same way because when I was looking around, I didn't see NOT 1 !!! name brand I recognized (compared to the everyday commercialized names like RF, Kicker & JL...) I instead saw name brands like some cursive writting that sai " F I " (I think...), MA Massive Audio, HERTZ and RAINBOW (which was said above)...
So to make a long 2.5hr shootin the shyt visit, He gave me outlined drown up keeping the OEM head unit, replacing the front Hi/Mids with HERTZ 6.5 and tweets, the rear with HERTZ components, powered by MASSIVE AUDIO NX5 amp, bass provided by #1 HERTZ or #2 CrossFire 1x12in sub (HERTZ being the better by a hair) and also pushed by a MASSIVE AUDIO NX5 amp. ~ Installed $1200.00 (EVERYTHING was priced to me at additional discounts then what was tagged on the floor due to our history.) vs was approx. total for this set up also $2000.00 or more.
With all that being said, I still looked at him sideways and with one brow up. He understood my concern and wanted to assure me his promise and guarantee so he showed me his COMPETITION ($100.000.00) Sound Van and Trophy collection (over 50 Trophies!)and said, "Josh, I been doing this since high school when we were in auto mech. class together, then I went to a tech school for sound/audio/computers and been doing this for over 20yrs and I have NEVER lost a sound off competition to anyone using any of those other name brands (JL, RF & Kicker...etc)...
Now, I ask, what do you guys think? Thanks!
So to make a long 2.5hr shootin the shyt visit, He gave me outlined drown up keeping the OEM head unit, replacing the front Hi/Mids with HERTZ 6.5 and tweets, the rear with HERTZ components, powered by MASSIVE AUDIO NX5 amp, bass provided by #1 HERTZ or #2 CrossFire 1x12in sub (HERTZ being the better by a hair) and also pushed by a MASSIVE AUDIO NX5 amp. ~ Installed $1200.00 (EVERYTHING was priced to me at additional discounts then what was tagged on the floor due to our history.) vs was approx. total for this set up also $2000.00 or more.
With all that being said, I still looked at him sideways and with one brow up. He understood my concern and wanted to assure me his promise and guarantee so he showed me his COMPETITION ($100.000.00) Sound Van and Trophy collection (over 50 Trophies!)and said, "Josh, I been doing this since high school when we were in auto mech. class together, then I went to a tech school for sound/audio/computers and been doing this for over 20yrs and I have NEVER lost a sound off competition to anyone using any of those other name brands (JL, RF & Kicker...etc)...
Now, I ask, what do you guys think? Thanks!
01-13-2012, 04:15 PM
#10
Well for one, I will address his last statement about JL, RF and Kicker. He obviously does not compete in sound quality or I would have heard of him and he would know that one of the perennial winners in IASCA, MECA, & USACi (Mark Eldridge) runs all JL products. Now, Mark's car is a converted former NASCAR with pro audio processing, but still. It sound to me as if he has his trophies in SPL, which is how loud can he make the van (bass wise) on a burp. Two completely separate things.
As far as his recommendation to you....
Front Stage reccomendation.....Hertz make okay speakers, I like Rainbow, Hybrid and better, but they would definitely be better than the Rockford's. Again, I would not waste a bunch of money on the rear speakers. He obviously isn't familiar with sound quality, just making something loud. You don't want much of anything coming from the rear (I prefer nothing, like most who compete in sq competitions). If you really feel the need to get something, make it cheap and don't give them much power.
Subwoofer recommendation....Hertz or Crossfire? Ummmmmm, No! Neither are worth you money. You would be much better off with a Rainbow sub if he doesn't have Image Dynamics available in his shop. Hell, I would take a Rockford sub over the Hertz or Crossfire.
Amp recommendation....Massive Audio amps have been proven (over on the DIYMA forum) to be overrated and sub-par at best. Sound quality is poor and they don't produce their rated output. There are MUCH better options for amps. I would recommend the Rockford over the Massive!!! But there are many amps I would choose over the Rockfords!
Do you have any experience at all as far as installing yourself?
As far as his recommendation to you....
Front Stage reccomendation.....Hertz make okay speakers, I like Rainbow, Hybrid and better, but they would definitely be better than the Rockford's. Again, I would not waste a bunch of money on the rear speakers. He obviously isn't familiar with sound quality, just making something loud. You don't want much of anything coming from the rear (I prefer nothing, like most who compete in sq competitions). If you really feel the need to get something, make it cheap and don't give them much power.
Subwoofer recommendation....Hertz or Crossfire? Ummmmmm, No! Neither are worth you money. You would be much better off with a Rainbow sub if he doesn't have Image Dynamics available in his shop. Hell, I would take a Rockford sub over the Hertz or Crossfire.
Amp recommendation....Massive Audio amps have been proven (over on the DIYMA forum) to be overrated and sub-par at best. Sound quality is poor and they don't produce their rated output. There are MUCH better options for amps. I would recommend the Rockford over the Massive!!! But there are many amps I would choose over the Rockfords!
Do you have any experience at all as far as installing yourself?
01-13-2012, 04:51 PM
#11
As far as tearing shyt out and splicing and color coding and diagraming...In short, NO! Relacing STOCK speakers in the stock holes with the stock wires + and - 's ...Yes! 
Yeah, I know, I suck! But that is the reason for all the questions. But I am really learning alot here. I believe u may be 1000% percent correct regarding my friends experience in soun and sound offs. But he did jave RAINBOW but he quickly said he would NOT sell me or recommend the set he had cuz it was the lowest of models he has and the ones he loves he just sold and installed in a porsche yesterday... I forgot the model # he quoted... SPX's or something like that. He also said the same about the HERTZ mids/hi's...He has low end set, mid grade and hi end of their line up. He offered the mid range sets for me and my usage, They sounded really nice and clean on the demo wall :/
Yeah, I know, I suck! But that is the reason for all the questions. But I am really learning alot here. I believe u may be 1000% percent correct regarding my friends experience in soun and sound offs. But he did jave RAINBOW but he quickly said he would NOT sell me or recommend the set he had cuz it was the lowest of models he has and the ones he loves he just sold and installed in a porsche yesterday... I forgot the model # he quoted... SPX's or something like that. He also said the same about the HERTZ mids/hi's...He has low end set, mid grade and hi end of their line up. He offered the mid range sets for me and my usage, They sounded really nice and clean on the demo wall :/
Last edited by JayVee; 01-13-2012 at 04:54 PM.
01-13-2012, 04:54 PM
#12
Dogmatic Dinosaur
What are you wanting to spend? Are you willing to wait and accumulate items a little bit at a time? Can you install?
The great thing (or bad, depending on your viewpoint) about car audio is that those who have money, and are patient, can get great deals if they give it a few months. I have a garage full of stuff that I will probably never use again (and need to sell) that I got for 1/4 of retail with cash because somebody made a terrible decision and was strapped for cash. Generally, older high-end stuff will still crush mid, or low, level new stuff.
You can try just a sub. It will drown out your fronts, but some people like that and are totally happy. Post your budget and you will get some better suggestions.
The great thing (or bad, depending on your viewpoint) about car audio is that those who have money, and are patient, can get great deals if they give it a few months. I have a garage full of stuff that I will probably never use again (and need to sell) that I got for 1/4 of retail with cash because somebody made a terrible decision and was strapped for cash. Generally, older high-end stuff will still crush mid, or low, level new stuff.
You can try just a sub. It will drown out your fronts, but some people like that and are totally happy. Post your budget and you will get some better suggestions.
01-13-2012, 05:14 PM
#13
My budget can very but so far...I don't wanna spend $2000 at one time... And yes I am very patient to score as I always have with all other trims and mods so far for the tl. As I hear niebur3 more and more I am starting to think to leave therear speakers under OEM radio power and upgrade thfront 6.5 and hi's only w/a amp and closing with installing a sub+amp in rear... and DONE with it! The only problem is, I don't know what considered to be a suitable amp for this set up...
speaking on lil by lil... Lets say I did this and started installing first the 6.5 and Hi's... Is that OK or are they duifferent ohms I need to be aware of. I ask this question since majority of sets are 4oh and the TL stock speakers are 2oh...is this right? If so, that would mean lass quality sound initially while I am starting lil by lil.
What are you wanting to spend? Are you willing to wait and accumulate items a little bit at a time? Can you install?
The great thing (or bad, depending on your viewpoint) about car audio is that those who have money, and are patient, can get great deals if they give it a few months. I have a garage full of stuff that I will probably never use again (and need to sell) that I got for 1/4 of retail with cash because somebody made a terrible decision and was strapped for cash. Generally, older high-end stuff will still crush mid, or low, level new stuff.
You can try just a sub. It will drown out your fronts, but some people like that and are totally happy. Post your budget and you will get some better suggestions.
The great thing (or bad, depending on your viewpoint) about car audio is that those who have money, and are patient, can get great deals if they give it a few months. I have a garage full of stuff that I will probably never use again (and need to sell) that I got for 1/4 of retail with cash because somebody made a terrible decision and was strapped for cash. Generally, older high-end stuff will still crush mid, or low, level new stuff.
You can try just a sub. It will drown out your fronts, but some people like that and are totally happy. Post your budget and you will get some better suggestions.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 01-14-2012 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
01-13-2012, 05:36 PM
#14
speaking on lil by lil... Lets say I did this and started installing first the 6.5 and Hi's... Is that OK or are they duifferent ohms I need to be aware of. I ask this question since majority of sets are 4oh and the TL stock speakers are 2oh...is this right? If so, that would mean lass quality sound initially while I am starting lil by lil.
If you are looking to piece a system together, I would start with a subwoofer add on with amp for phase 1 and then the front component with amp for phase 2. It is possible to find a single amp that would power all and only have a 1 amp system. I would suggest an ARC KS900.6, JL Audio 900/5 (quite expensive though) or Image Dynamics i5800 (least expensive of the group). Or you can go with 2 amps. Rainbow, ARC and Image Dynamics all make very affordable high quality amps.
01-13-2012, 07:45 PM
#15
THANKS ALOT Jerry!!! After talking with Jerry (niebur3) you can hear the experience & knowledge pouring from Jerry as makes every possible combo attempt to figure out "THE BEST BANG FOR "MY" BUCK! ~ DONE DEAL! And this is what he drew up:
* RAINBOW SLC 265.25 NG 6.5 components
* IMAGE DYNAMICS i5800 5CH Amp
* IMAGE DYNAMICS (1) IDQ12V3D4 12in Subwoofer
CAN'T WAIT!
* RAINBOW SLC 265.25 NG 6.5 components
* IMAGE DYNAMICS i5800 5CH Amp
* IMAGE DYNAMICS (1) IDQ12V3D4 12in Subwoofer
CAN'T WAIT!
01-13-2012, 10:22 PM
#16
Let us know how it turns out. I'd be interested to see if you get what you want out of it, as it sounds like I have similar requirements. Updating the sound stage in this car is something that has always confused/intimidated me, so if this works out for you, I may do the same.
01-13-2012, 11:38 PM
#17
Team Owner
Glad to see Jerry is taking care of you. He's been awesome in his tech support, his recommendations based on my goals, and the absolute quickest shipping I've ever seen. I'll have to go back and check my old posts but I remember buying an item from him and having a tracking number in under 30 minutes. The prices aren't too bad either. If you guys talked for a while I'm confident you will love the equipment. I had other stuff in mind and after about an hour, Jerry recommended the Dyn equipment. After hearing many high end setups since then, I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase.
Since I can't help myself, and I'm the resident infinite baffle fanatic, did you guys talk about a pair of IDQs IB?
Since I can't help myself, and I'm the resident infinite baffle fanatic, did you guys talk about a pair of IDQs IB?
01-14-2012, 12:15 AM
#18
.
01-14-2012, 07:46 AM
#19
Let us know how it turns out. I'd be interested to see if you get what you want out of it, as it sounds like I have similar requirements. Updating the sound stage in this car is something that has always confused/intimidated me, so if this works out for you, I may do the same.
Which is GOOD!Glad to see Jerry is taking care of you. He's been awesome in his tech support, his recommendations based on my goals, and the absolute quickest shipping I've ever seen. I'll have to go back and check my old posts but I remember buying an item from him and having a tracking number in under 30 minutes. The prices aren't too bad either. If you guys talked for a while I'm confident you will love the equipment. I had other stuff in mind and after about an hour, Jerry recommended the Dyn equipment. After hearing many high end setups since then, I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase.
Since I can't help myself, and I'm the resident infinite baffle fanatic, did you guys talk about a pair of IDQs IB?
Since I can't help myself, and I'm the resident infinite baffle fanatic, did you guys talk about a pair of IDQs IB?
JERRY... don't forget about me and contact me back on the prices of the items for what you can/can not do. Thanks!
Last edited by Steven Bell; 01-14-2012 at 02:22 PM.
01-14-2012, 10:04 AM
#22
It doesn't have to be perfect per say, but it does have to be good. They have to know what an IB is and how to properly do one.
If I was doing your install (basically things to ask/tell them) I would use a double 3/4 MDF wall (cut VERY close to the shape of the opening) to mount the sub to to reduce any chance of flexing. Then I would secure the wall to the cross braces behind the rear seat. It can be bolted to those easily and prevent any flexing while keeping it decoupled from the rear deck that tends to be noisy. I would make sure if any speakers are removed from the rear deck, that the hole was sealed with sound deadening materials. I would then seal the edge of the wall with sound deadening material/spray foam to prevent air leaks. This would be sealed to the metal, not the carpet. A few minor air leaks are fine, but it can't be anything major! Finally, I would remove the plastic piece in the pass-through and allow the sub to fire freely through with the armrest down!
If I was doing your install (basically things to ask/tell them) I would use a double 3/4 MDF wall (cut VERY close to the shape of the opening) to mount the sub to to reduce any chance of flexing. Then I would secure the wall to the cross braces behind the rear seat. It can be bolted to those easily and prevent any flexing while keeping it decoupled from the rear deck that tends to be noisy. I would make sure if any speakers are removed from the rear deck, that the hole was sealed with sound deadening materials. I would then seal the edge of the wall with sound deadening material/spray foam to prevent air leaks. This would be sealed to the metal, not the carpet. A few minor air leaks are fine, but it can't be anything major! Finally, I would remove the plastic piece in the pass-through and allow the sub to fire freely through with the armrest down!
01-14-2012, 10:20 AM
#23
It doesn't have to be perfect per say, but it does have to be good. They have to know what an IB is and how to properly do one.
If I was doing your install (basically things to ask/tell them) I would use a double 3/4 MDF wall (cut VERY close to the shape of the opening) to mount the sub to to reduce any chance of flexing. Then I would secure the wall to the cross braces behind the rear seat. It can be bolted to those easily and prevent any flexing while keeping it decoupled from the rear deck that tends to be noisy. I would make sure if any speakers are removed from the rear deck, that the hole was sealed with sound deadening materials. I would then seal the edge of the wall with sound deadening material/spray foam to prevent air leaks. This would be sealed to the metal, not the carpet. A few minor air leaks are fine, but it can't be anything major! Finally, I would remove the plastic piece in the pass-through and allow the sub to fire freely through with the armrest down!
If I was doing your install (basically things to ask/tell them) I would use a double 3/4 MDF wall (cut VERY close to the shape of the opening) to mount the sub to to reduce any chance of flexing. Then I would secure the wall to the cross braces behind the rear seat. It can be bolted to those easily and prevent any flexing while keeping it decoupled from the rear deck that tends to be noisy. I would make sure if any speakers are removed from the rear deck, that the hole was sealed with sound deadening materials. I would then seal the edge of the wall with sound deadening material/spray foam to prevent air leaks. This would be sealed to the metal, not the carpet. A few minor air leaks are fine, but it can't be anything major! Finally, I would remove the plastic piece in the pass-through and allow the sub to fire freely through with the armrest down!
01-14-2012, 12:06 PM
#26
Team Owner
Oh wow, I totally missed the IB part. Can't wait to see how it turns out. I've heard the IDQ IB, very, very nice.
I'm constantly having to stop myself from taking out a loan to get 3 Esotar 1200s to run IB in my car.
I'm constantly having to stop myself from taking out a loan to get 3 Esotar 1200s to run IB in my car.
01-14-2012, 12:46 PM
#27
I didnt know what IB was till it was too late so my responses make no scense... With all the #s and letters and model/name brands I never heard of I was confused and realized after I reread the last half of the thread is when I realized IB was INFINITE BAFFEL.... Would you guys just talk in full english rather then TEXT MESSAGE english...LOL! lmao!
I suck, I know...
I suck, I know...
01-14-2012, 01:11 PM
#29
As for WHERE?... A local AUTH Dealer who thought I would NEVER claim a favor from him he owned me since he knows I am NOT into "BOOM BOOM" or stereo systems in my cars... Well, I decided to cash in if you would. It was a small favor. But either way, a good deal!
01-15-2012, 10:22 AM
#31
This question is more for Niebur3: The description on amazon says that you get 1.5x the kick bass with the Kicks vs the Deluxes, but that the system needs to be used with an 80 Hz (12db/Oct.) high pass. That's total Greek to me, but I assume that has to do with the amp? Will the amp handle this setup?
Also, is it worth the extra expense for the Kicks?
01-15-2012, 11:12 AM
#32
Did you get the Kick or the Deluxe?
This question is more for Niebur3: The description on amazon says that you get 1.5x the kick bass with the Kicks vs the Deluxes, but that the system needs to be used with an 80 Hz (12db/Oct.) high pass. That's total Greek to me, but I assume that has to do with the amp? Will the amp handle this setup?
Also, is it worth the extra expense for the Kicks?
This question is more for Niebur3: The description on amazon says that you get 1.5x the kick bass with the Kicks vs the Deluxes, but that the system needs to be used with an 80 Hz (12db/Oct.) high pass. That's total Greek to me, but I assume that has to do with the amp? Will the amp handle this setup?
Also, is it worth the extra expense for the Kicks?
The crossover point of 80Hz 12/db high pass can be something the amplifier can do, just depends if the amp has crossover capability.
I prefer the standard over the kicks. The kick just don't give you much (if at all) more midbass but the midrange is not as good with the kicks.
I'll send you a PM!
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JayVee (01-18-2012)
01-15-2012, 12:53 PM
#33
The crossover point of 80Hz 12/db high pass can be something the amplifier can do, just depends if the amp has crossover capability.
I prefer the standard over the kicks. The kick just don't give you much (if at all) more midbass but the midrange is not as good with the kicks.
I'll send you a PM!
I prefer the standard over the kicks. The kick just don't give you much (if at all) more midbass but the midrange is not as good with the kicks.
I'll send you a PM!
as for me being a lil impatient, SORRY. When I question someone with cost and inq's is because I am ready to pull the trigger at whatever best price comes my way. I am extremely patient when it comes to getting what I want but by the small research I did it seem the prices were ideal at that point per the recommended list of your expertise
Either way, I can't go wrong. I am way under budget or expected budget at this point for jumping.
01-18-2012, 06:06 AM
#34
YAY! Check list...CHECK! Just picked up the IDQ12v3 D4 12in sub yesterday for $135.00! 1hr drive...But that my free time anyways... So, it worked out. The rest of the items recommended are in the mail
Now, if I was to get a tad better quality from the rear deck speakers powered by the factory radio/amp on 2ohm. Is there a model/brand you recommend for this application Jerry? Again, nothing fancy... Just some clean crisp sound better then OEM speakers. I was looking at the 2ohm Infinity Reference or CDT's. Any input?... or is it all a waste for such minimal undetected sound quality from those deck speakers?
Thanks again for all your Professional Expertise Jerry! ~ Class Act AZ Member
1hr drive...But that my free time anyways... So, it worked out. The rest of the items recommended are in the mail Now, if I was to get a tad better quality from the rear deck speakers powered by the factory radio/amp on 2ohm. Is there a model/brand you recommend for this application Jerry? Again, nothing fancy... Just some clean crisp sound better then OEM speakers. I was looking at the 2ohm Infinity Reference or CDT's. Any input?... or is it all a waste for such minimal undetected sound quality from those deck speakers?
Thanks again for all your Professional Expertise Jerry! ~ Class Act AZ Member
Last edited by JayVee; 01-18-2012 at 06:13 AM.
01-18-2012, 07:56 AM
#35
This is going to be more of a preference thing. I skipped it in my car, and you would never miss them, but some just want to know they are back there. I like the Image Dynamics a little better than the Infinity. I know they make 2ohm drivers. If anything, I would go with just a standard speaker, not a coaxial.
01-18-2012, 08:57 AM
#36
This is going to be more of a preference thing. I skipped it in my car, and you would never miss them, but some just want to know they are back there. I like the Image Dynamics a little better than the Infinity. I know they make 2ohm drivers. If anything, I would go with just a standard speaker, not a coaxial.
Thanks Jerry!
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morgrar (07-24-2012)
01-18-2012, 01:00 PM
#37
The only upgrades i did in my TL are infinity components ref6030cs in front, infinity ref6032cf in rear running from stock amp/head unit. I unplugged the oem sub and tapped the output to my new sub: 2 infinity kappa perfect 10's in a little 1.2 cu.in. sealed box. All this for under 800$. You cand find great deals at sonicelectronix.com.
And trust me, the sound quality is really amazing.
And trust me, the sound quality is really amazing.
01-18-2012, 04:45 PM
#39
The only upgrades i did in my TL are infinity components ref6030cs in front, infinity ref6032cf in rear running from stock amp/head unit. I unplugged the oem sub and tapped the output to my new sub: 2 infinity kappa perfect 10's in a little 1.2 cu.in. sealed box. All this for under 800$. You cand find great deals at sonicelectronix.com.
And trust me, the sound quality is really amazing.
And trust me, the sound quality is really amazing.
01-18-2012, 04:49 PM
#40
HELL NO!