Questions about ohms, etc...
Questions about ohms, etc...
Before I begin, I want to say that I did search and couldn't really find a specific answer to my question (although I did find out why my side mirror wouldn't tilt anymore *face palm*). I got a new Alpine Type R 10 that has 4ohm and 4ohms written above the speaker connections, and I was wondering if that makes this a 4ohm speaker or an 8ohm speaker? Also, I bought an Alpine M (something) 1000 watts mono amp, and I was wondering how to hook this shit up and at what ohms I would be running the amp at? I want it to run at 4ohms, by the way. Thanks
first off i am guessing that there are two pos and two neg connections on your sub.
if that is the case you can run the sub at 2ohms or 8 ohms. you must use both sets of termianls on the sub or it will not live a long life.
to get 2ohms also called parallel wiring
run one wire lead from the pos terminal on the am to each of the pos terminals on the sub
and the same for the neg side that would get you tow 2ohms at the amp.
for 8 ohms also called series wireing
run one wire lead from the pos terminal on the amp to the pos term on the sub the an ther lead from the neg term to the pos of the 2nd set of terminals on the sub then one more wire lead from the neg term back to the amp neg terminal
if that is the case you can run the sub at 2ohms or 8 ohms. you must use both sets of termianls on the sub or it will not live a long life.
to get 2ohms also called parallel wiring
run one wire lead from the pos terminal on the am to each of the pos terminals on the sub
and the same for the neg side that would get you tow 2ohms at the amp.
for 8 ohms also called series wireing
run one wire lead from the pos terminal on the amp to the pos term on the sub the an ther lead from the neg term to the pos of the 2nd set of terminals on the sub then one more wire lead from the neg term back to the amp neg terminal
Correct and thanks man, just one question? When you say run one wire from the amp to both +terminals, is that when you use the "jumper wire thingy' that came with the speaker? And if so, I assume it's the same for the - terminal too? So I guess there is no 4ohm option? *3 questions actually ha*
Correct and thanks man, just one question? When you say run one wire from the amp to both +terminals, is that when you use the "jumper wire thingy' that came with the speaker? And if so, I assume it's the same for the - terminal too? So I guess there is no 4ohm option? *3 questions actually ha*
Here is a diagram on how to wire 4ohm dual coil to a single 2ohm setup.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...4-ohm_mono.jpg
hope this help.
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if you are tapping from the trunk (you probably need a LOC)
SW+ Yellow w/Black
SW- Light Green w/Red
if you are tapping before the amp harness
SW+ Red w/Blue
SW- White w/Green
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Hey, thanks for the help fellers, I appreciate it. I talked to a few people, at a shop around here, and they said on most newer model amps there is a high input connection, and that would work without the LOC. I got everything working, sounds great. I'm kinda worried about the power wire getting too hot in the engine compartment though; I may need some shielding of some sorts? And Eduardmc, I'll pay you in praise haha...
P.S. By the way, I hooked the +/- wire from the stock sub to the amp up backwards! It sounds fine, but do you think I need to go ahead and switch those or is it good like it is? Thanks again...
P.S. By the way, I hooked the +/- wire from the stock sub to the amp up backwards! It sounds fine, but do you think I need to go ahead and switch those or is it good like it is? Thanks again...
you'll want to switch them around and run it correctly. hooking the wires up backwards is going to make the sub run, but what they call "out of phase". by switching around the correct way the sub will play "in phase", and will most likely sound better.
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