question on aftermarket system
#1
"Tantalizing Lilin"
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question on aftermarket system
hey i was looking into adding another sub and amp along with the stock system in the Tl. i was wondering if it was a good idea to just get the amp and sub or replace the entire system..i like the stock system except im looking to add more bass to it...any suggestions on how to accomplish this without spending a fortune??
#2
Senior Moderator
replacing the entire system would be costly, and a few of the electronics in the car would cease to work such as the HFL system. If you want to have a system just with more bass to it, do this:
Get a JL amp or amp that has high voltage inputs
Connect the amp to the factory wires for the sub, then install the sub in the trunk.
If you want have a system that has a lot more clarity, better soundstage and more, you would need to do this:
Take factory wires -> Rocksford fosgate 3.sixty.2 audio processor or any other audio processor -> amp -> speakers.
Get a JL amp or amp that has high voltage inputs
Connect the amp to the factory wires for the sub, then install the sub in the trunk.
If you want have a system that has a lot more clarity, better soundstage and more, you would need to do this:
Take factory wires -> Rocksford fosgate 3.sixty.2 audio processor or any other audio processor -> amp -> speakers.
#3
amp
so a JL with high outputs eh? Any suggestions on which amp to get if i wanted to run a kicker 12 in a closed box? Just a dual voice 12 kicker with a small box enclosure. just wondering about power of the amp and possible specific amps. Thanks.
#6
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by csmeance
replacing the entire system would be costly, and a few of the electronics in the car would cease to work such as the HFL system. If you want to have a system just with more bass to it, do this:
Get a JL amp or amp that has high voltage inputs
Connect the amp to the factory wires for the sub, then install the sub in the trunk.
If you want have a system that has a lot more clarity, better soundstage and more, you would need to do this:
Take factory wires -> Rocksford fosgate 3.sixty.2 audio processor or any other audio processor -> amp -> speakers.
Get a JL amp or amp that has high voltage inputs
Connect the amp to the factory wires for the sub, then install the sub in the trunk.
If you want have a system that has a lot more clarity, better soundstage and more, you would need to do this:
Take factory wires -> Rocksford fosgate 3.sixty.2 audio processor or any other audio processor -> amp -> speakers.
Which part of the OEM stereo handles the HFL function? The head unit? The stock amp? Are there any more detailed threads that address this question?
#7
Safety Car
i did the sub in the beginning.....regretted not going nuts with it from the beginning so 4 days later i got everything else and put it in.... much happier now but it all depends on ur pocket and how nuts u are about music.....im extreme about it so i went a lil out of control with it.
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#9
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by Tripnbeats
as long as the 4 internal speakers are working the HFL works no prob.... u have to have the stock amp connected in order for the hfl to work though.
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by tech14
4 internal speakers are in reference to the doors? rear panel? Does the stock amp degrade the signal quality if you hook up a signal processor to it?
#12
"Tantalizing Lilin"
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ive been leaning on gettin another amp and a sub installed, instead of replacing the entire system. i like the stock system, i just want more bass...wht wud b the best way of getting more bass while spending under 500 dollars?
#13
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Originally Posted by brownpakistud08
ive been leaning on gettin another amp and a sub installed, instead of replacing the entire system. i like the stock system, i just want more bass...wht wud b the best way of getting more bass while spending under 500 dollars?
#14
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Originally Posted by brownpakistud08
ive been leaning on gettin another amp and a sub installed, instead of replacing the entire system. i like the stock system, i just want more bass...wht wud b the best way of getting more bass while spending under 500 dollars?
basslink
#15
"Tantalizing Lilin"
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Originally Posted by RBP_04TL
do wat the rest of the ppl are sayin replace the stock sub with the JL 8" w6-w7
#16
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to keep it simple, I kept the stock HU, got a good quality LOC, connected all speaker wires AFTER the stock amp to the LOC. Then from the LOC, I ran the highs to 1 amp which I mounted under the rear deck, and the lows to another amp which is under the drivers seat. Then the high amp feeds the interior speakers, and the low amp feeds a 12 inch kicker installed in a custom enclosure that fits into the corner of the trunk and it THUMPS!! The only issue I have is that when I turn the radio off, the amps remain on until the car is completely off, so I hear the hiss thru the speakers. That was getting annoying so I installed a simple switch under the dash to cut the LOC off manually - I think the HFL sends out a constant signal so the LOC doesn't know when to turn off automatically - but if I get a call I see it on the display but I don't hear anything until I flip the switch - bit of a PITA but I can live with it.
#18
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by RBP_04TL
replace the whole system.... i did it to mines much better then stock sound, got 2 amps 1 for bass and the other for voice will post pics up in the weekend
#22
Safety Car
ok first HFL works only through the 4 speakers in the car 2 in the deck one in each front door. 2nd you cannot replace the stock sub with a w6 or w7 because u have the trunk spring in the way and even if u could you'd blow that speaker to kingdom come.....u cant use the airspace in the trunk for anything more than an isobaric speaker.... anyway all the internal speakers have 4 ohms pushed to all of them and the front speakers are bridged to 2 ohms because they are tied in with the tweeters. those are pushing mid bass - highs. The sub is obviously at low end frequencies and is at 4 ohms. everything and anything u do to the radio as an "upgrade" HAS to be wired through the stock amp....dont bypass it.... you wont get volume just low noise and lose a lot of capabilities of the radio or anything else thats tied in.
#23
Retired!!! ON TOP!!!
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by VmtSquad
I think you need the stock amp to keep HFL.
You don't need the stock amp to keep HFL... the HFL is handled through the Audio Unit (Radio) it's basically 4 wires into the Radio from the HFL unit... HFL mute (BLU/RED), HFL (+) (BLU), HLF (-)(PNK) and HFL SHD(LT GRN/BLK or BLK) on the Grey Connector behind Radio... then the sound is transfered to the Front Left and Right Speakers through the factory amp...
If there's anyway to connect those wires coming from the HFL unit into an aftermarket radio via an auto muting and switching system, then it'll function exactly like stock...
Good Luck...
#24
Safety Car
ok so you still need the stock amp to process whatever is coming out of the radio because nothing else will....it's like raw format being pushed to the stock amp to convert to sound.
#25
I'M BACK!!!
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Originally Posted by brownpakistud08
ive been leaning on gettin another amp and a sub installed, instead of replacing the entire system. i like the stock system, i just want more bass...wht wud b the best way of getting more bass while spending under 500 dollars?
#29
Safety Car
i wouldnt tap into a fuse box for a remote lead....the amps need a very small 12volt signal (500mA) and can then turn on the remote turn on for the stock amp is 9 volt... I installed a peripheral electronics lvt2 and it took care of it.
#30
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by tech14
If you tap into the fusebox for your remote turn on wire, do you need a relay if you are running three amplifiers?
I ran a 16 gauge from my head unit to the trunk and first amp, then a short jumper from there to the second amp. No problems at all. the wire isn't even a bit warm. The rule of thumb, size your wire for the total amperage of the circuit, then size your fuse accordingly.
#31
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I'll document my recent experience to provide a bit of insight.
I just got an old 15" sub I had laying around and a new 600 watt digital Alpine amp put into my car on Tuesday. The installer basically disconnected the factory sub, ran a line out from the remaining wires and dynamatted the entire trunk for me.
Everything sounded super until I totally toasted the old sub within 3 hours 'cause the amp was too much for it. Went the next day and picked up a $370 Alpine Type-R 15 to replace it and it's beating my doors off. I had an old Ford Ranger with 2 JL Audio W6 12"s and this puts it to shame (with only 600 watts too!).
A lot of people will suggest that you replace the factory radio because of the 'low' voltage that comes from a factory unit compared to the pre-amped high voltage aftermarket radios. However, the TL is a unique case because it has what Acura describes as a 'high-voltage' sub out that isn't quite as high as an aftermarket one but much higher than other brands' stock radios.
For cost purposes, use the factory unit, disconnect the factory sub, and add something in your truck to replace it. You'd be amazed at what a high-quality 10 or 12 would do in what is a relatively small cabin space. Always fire towards the rear of the vehicle because you want to elongate the area in front of the woofer as much as possible. Directing the sound against the back of your rear seat will only give you the impact of the sub and not the true sound.
I just got an old 15" sub I had laying around and a new 600 watt digital Alpine amp put into my car on Tuesday. The installer basically disconnected the factory sub, ran a line out from the remaining wires and dynamatted the entire trunk for me.
Everything sounded super until I totally toasted the old sub within 3 hours 'cause the amp was too much for it. Went the next day and picked up a $370 Alpine Type-R 15 to replace it and it's beating my doors off. I had an old Ford Ranger with 2 JL Audio W6 12"s and this puts it to shame (with only 600 watts too!).
A lot of people will suggest that you replace the factory radio because of the 'low' voltage that comes from a factory unit compared to the pre-amped high voltage aftermarket radios. However, the TL is a unique case because it has what Acura describes as a 'high-voltage' sub out that isn't quite as high as an aftermarket one but much higher than other brands' stock radios.
For cost purposes, use the factory unit, disconnect the factory sub, and add something in your truck to replace it. You'd be amazed at what a high-quality 10 or 12 would do in what is a relatively small cabin space. Always fire towards the rear of the vehicle because you want to elongate the area in front of the woofer as much as possible. Directing the sound against the back of your rear seat will only give you the impact of the sub and not the true sound.
#32
"Tantalizing Lilin"
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hey thanks for all the input. i just went today and did basically wht you just wrote up. they disconnected my stock sub and i got a 12 inch infinty kappa along with a 800 watt sony xplod amp powering it and it sounds great, using the factory head unit.
#33
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by Tripnbeats
i wouldnt tap into a fuse box for a remote lead....the amps need a very small 12volt signal (500mA) and can then turn on the remote turn on for the stock amp is 9 volt... I installed a peripheral electronics lvt2 and it took care of it.
#37
I just tried to do what you all did today.. Need some insight..
2007 TLs w/NAV
Tapped into the stock sub for my Hilevel Input Into a Kicker ZX750.1
I didnt want to get a hi-lo converter so the amp has a high level input. So Tapped into the stock sub and got a remote from the fuse box...
It sounds awesome when the car is off.... BUT
When the car is running the subs start to hummmmmm and go bazerk... THEN when I open the door. It stops! then close it.. and it goes again. Only when the car is running.. What is going on!!!!! I've messed with the gain and everything. Even turning off the sub on the OEM Nav Unit doesnt stop it.
PLEASE HELP
2007 TLs w/NAV
Tapped into the stock sub for my Hilevel Input Into a Kicker ZX750.1
I didnt want to get a hi-lo converter so the amp has a high level input. So Tapped into the stock sub and got a remote from the fuse box...
It sounds awesome when the car is off.... BUT
When the car is running the subs start to hummmmmm and go bazerk... THEN when I open the door. It stops! then close it.. and it goes again. Only when the car is running.. What is going on!!!!! I've messed with the gain and everything. Even turning off the sub on the OEM Nav Unit doesnt stop it.
PLEASE HELP
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DH22G...
Search the forums for Active Noise Cancellation or ANC...
This is an issue run into by many type-S owners before you... basically you need to disconnect two microphones that feed the ANC system (which plays a low frequency hum to factor out road noise which is amplified 10 fold when you add an aftermarket system).
One is located in the sunroof switch/front map light assembly and the other is in the center dome light assembly... You're looking for green clips that need to be disconnected.
Search the forums for Active Noise Cancellation or ANC...
This is an issue run into by many type-S owners before you... basically you need to disconnect two microphones that feed the ANC system (which plays a low frequency hum to factor out road noise which is amplified 10 fold when you add an aftermarket system).
One is located in the sunroof switch/front map light assembly and the other is in the center dome light assembly... You're looking for green clips that need to be disconnected.
#39
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oh and just for search purposes...
the ANC issue is only on Type-S models. I had an explanation of how to disconnect the mics ready for my installer who informed me that he couldn't find what I was describing.
Then... I did some more reading to find out that ANC is only on the newest Type-S model.
Just fyi
the ANC issue is only on Type-S models. I had an explanation of how to disconnect the mics ready for my installer who informed me that he couldn't find what I was describing.
Then... I did some more reading to find out that ANC is only on the newest Type-S model.
Just fyi