DaSilverJoint

Id like to put 2 kicker L7's with a 2400 watt hifonics amp i have already purchased the amp and a 0 gauge wiring kit other than the subs and the box what else would i need to make this work? I plan on keeping the stock radio unit... Is there any way you can hook up a aux or usb port to the head unit? Thanks in advance

pohljm

iSimple

4DGSR

isimple will allow 30pin iPod to be hooked up and controlled through the radio it will require you to unplug the XM box in the trunk.

There is also the isimple is77 that will make a AUX port and you should be able to keep XM.

You will need a line out converter if you plan to run RCA cables. Tap into the factory amp sub outline and you will be able to retain sub control on your factory unit.

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

^this. If you're talking about how to get an audio input to the amp, take a look at the inputs. Some amps have both "high" (speaker wire) and "low" inputs (RCA). If you have only RCA you will need a quality line output converter. Just tap it into one of the rear speakers and it will output a "low" signal to the amp.

iSimple as mentioned works. Another option is what I used; PIE X3, it hooks up behind the head unit. It is switchable between 3 different sources so if you have any other input (bluetooth, PS4 etc.) you can swith between them. The drawback is that I think it's kinda old skool, I don't even know if they sell it anymore and to be honest sound quality is not 100% great.

stevemk07

I tapped the HU signal wires prior to factory amp, attaching twisted pair RCAs and fed to a jl line driver to take advantage of the balanced differential signal from tue HU until I got my JL HD900/5 which already has the circuit to utiluze that type of signal. Huge difference from using a loc. Sounds like bass, not like a sub in the trunk. (Of course then you will need to try to get the output to be in phase.)

chrisd421

If your just running subs then you want to solder wires onto a pair of rcas, but remember you have one + and one - going to 2 rcas so you have to splice them. if you dont know how to do it have an audio shop do it, then tap in pre=amp. this will eliminate any whine that that often happens with the 3g cars. if you were doing door speakers also its easier because there is a + and - for each rca. then you simply run an rca into the trunk find one of the wires at the amp that only turns on when radio is on and use that as the remote. You r done, and this will still allow you to have control over your sub level through the factory radio which you wouldnt be able to do if you took the easy way and ran an loc off the rear channel like many people do. Plus this sounds better. I pretty much rewired my entire car so if you need any help PM me

But 2 12L7 and 2400 watts is a bit overkill dont u think?

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Well IMHO I don't consider Hifonics exactly the best audio grade out there. Some companies will list their "RMS" values and then once you listen to a setup you know they are lying. And the funny thing is they will list max as 4000watts or something insane. Haha. Ya with 5000% distortion.

Simple test: If it really is 2400watts, what kind of fuse does it use? Then you'll know it it means business. It would need something ridiculous in the order of like 400-450A to be somewhat legit.