A Poor, Simple Man's Audio Upgrade
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A Poor, Simple Man's Audio Upgrade
Ok I'm not even going to lie. I come into this section of the forum and get confused very easily. Which is odd because I could talk electronics and computers with just about everyone I know. But throw me in with some audio gurus and I get put in my place.
Anyways, after digging and reading I thought it would be prudent to put all of this in one, updated, current model location for the lesser informed like myself. I know there are far better options out there. I know some of you would never upgrade without getting new amps, a box for a new sub, etc. But I, like some I think, don't want a brain rattling, bass thumping system. I like clarity. I don't listen to much rap so bass isn't all that important to me.
So I looked for all of the recommendations for drop in, plug and play types audio upgrades. So please, gurus, if I wrote down the wrong models or something won't work, let me know. A lot of what I found here about this type of upgrade are outdated models. So finding what works, size, ohms, etc, was a little time consuming for my uninformed self. So here goes.
Tweeters
Stock size & ohms: 1" & 4 ohms
Model: Infinity REF 1031t
Price: $45
Link:http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...3679772&sr=8-1
Center
Stock size & ohms: 3.5" & 4 ohms
Model: Infinity REF 3032CF
Price: $45
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...3679788&sr=8-1
Doors and Rear Deck
Stock size & ohms: 6.5" & 2 ohms
Model: Infinity KAPPA 63.9i
Price: $90 x 2
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-639I-.../ref=de_a_smtd
Subwoofer
Stock size & ohms: 8" & 2 ohms
Model: Kicker 10C84
Price: $50
Link: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...er+c84&x=0&y=0
Total = $330 give or take...
Now a couple of things. My reading led me to believe that going with 2 ohm tweeters and center was a good thing. Making the front end a little brighter. So there is a difference there between stock. Also, that sub is a 4ohm sub compared to the stock 2 ohm.
I know most would not advise replacing the stock sub and retaining the stock location. Again, obviously the rear deck will have to have some treatment. But I'm looking for a faster, clearer bass not total volume or overall bass output. So I think I will be ok. My question is, for a sub like that in the stock location, I would consider buying a cheap small amp for it. Something like a Kicker Class D?
Anyways, I'm pretty sure everything but the sub recommendation is good so I hope this can help someone out there.
Anyways, after digging and reading I thought it would be prudent to put all of this in one, updated, current model location for the lesser informed like myself. I know there are far better options out there. I know some of you would never upgrade without getting new amps, a box for a new sub, etc. But I, like some I think, don't want a brain rattling, bass thumping system. I like clarity. I don't listen to much rap so bass isn't all that important to me.
So I looked for all of the recommendations for drop in, plug and play types audio upgrades. So please, gurus, if I wrote down the wrong models or something won't work, let me know. A lot of what I found here about this type of upgrade are outdated models. So finding what works, size, ohms, etc, was a little time consuming for my uninformed self. So here goes.
Tweeters
Stock size & ohms: 1" & 4 ohms
Model: Infinity REF 1031t
Price: $45
Link:http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...3679772&sr=8-1
Center
Stock size & ohms: 3.5" & 4 ohms
Model: Infinity REF 3032CF
Price: $45
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...3679788&sr=8-1
Doors and Rear Deck
Stock size & ohms: 6.5" & 2 ohms
Model: Infinity KAPPA 63.9i
Price: $90 x 2
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-639I-.../ref=de_a_smtd
Subwoofer
Stock size & ohms: 8" & 2 ohms
Model: Kicker 10C84
Price: $50
Link: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...er+c84&x=0&y=0
Total = $330 give or take...
Now a couple of things. My reading led me to believe that going with 2 ohm tweeters and center was a good thing. Making the front end a little brighter. So there is a difference there between stock. Also, that sub is a 4ohm sub compared to the stock 2 ohm.
I know most would not advise replacing the stock sub and retaining the stock location. Again, obviously the rear deck will have to have some treatment. But I'm looking for a faster, clearer bass not total volume or overall bass output. So I think I will be ok. My question is, for a sub like that in the stock location, I would consider buying a cheap small amp for it. Something like a Kicker Class D?
Anyways, I'm pretty sure everything but the sub recommendation is good so I hope this can help someone out there.
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^No I wrote down my search findings for the past month and figured I would put it online. Going back to 2007/08 and getting information. But things like the tweeters have gone through model revisions, so it got confusing.
This is also going to be part of a walk through type script I am going to make for AZ TL members. More to come on that later.
So please if I am way off on things, correct me.
This is also going to be part of a walk through type script I am going to make for AZ TL members. More to come on that later.
So please if I am way off on things, correct me.
Sounds like you know what you want. The gurus will try and convince you that it's a bad idea. $330 spent on good front comps and an amp will probably get you further though.
Id actually amp the stock speakers as a first step if it were me.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10IX500.4.html
This will run your doors, or front doors and a sub. Its balanced so shouldn't need any additional support equipment. Its small, so it won't suck up trunk space. It will run better speakers if you go that way in the future. You're system will be tossed if you want anything more after you do it.
Id actually amp the stock speakers as a first step if it were me.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10IX500.4.html
This will run your doors, or front doors and a sub. Its balanced so shouldn't need any additional support equipment. Its small, so it won't suck up trunk space. It will run better speakers if you go that way in the future. You're system will be tossed if you want anything more after you do it.
Like stated above, I think you'd be better off finding a different amp for the factory speakers. They open up a bit I hear with more power. Pick up a nice 4-channel and find a sub/box on Craigslist. Amp the fronts and the sub (bridged) and you'll be good to go. Plenty of bass on tap and it'll be louder than stock.
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Lol I'm going to bump my year old thread here. And I understand most of you advise against anything I wrote above. But I want the meagerest of upgrades without having to buy new amp(s) or running new wires.
So without touching the stock head unit and amp what are my best options? I have a blown speaker in the rear deck and I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the sub too.
So what speakers can I just slap in and move on? The ones I posted above?
So without touching the stock head unit and amp what are my best options? I have a blown speaker in the rear deck and I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the sub too.
So what speakers can I just slap in and move on? The ones I posted above?
I have the 63.9i, but they are running off of an amp. I haven't found much love for Infinity on this site. I think if I had spent more time reading, I would not have purchased them. From my little experience, if you just upgrade the speakers, they won't produce their full potential. I've done this in the past and they sort of sounded like the speakers were far away.
From what the audiophiles state above, you are better off installing a new amp on the stock speakers. However, now that you have blown them, maybe just get the speakers and see if you like them. They are only $100 a pair. If they sound crappy, you'll have your answer and you'll be installing an amp.
The stock speakers were engineered for that HU, amp and car. If you drop in a speaker that needs more power, you'll have a lower performing system. Why are you not getting a component pair for the front?
From what the audiophiles state above, you are better off installing a new amp on the stock speakers. However, now that you have blown them, maybe just get the speakers and see if you like them. They are only $100 a pair. If they sound crappy, you'll have your answer and you'll be installing an amp.
The stock speakers were engineered for that HU, amp and car. If you drop in a speaker that needs more power, you'll have a lower performing system. Why are you not getting a component pair for the front?
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I can do a lot of things in the car with no problem but I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to car audio.
Whatever links I listed in post #1 where updated models of speakers that were, at one time, recommended on this site.
I know for a fact guys upgrade the tweeters and center speaker to those speakers without additional amps and have had good responses...
Whatever links I listed in post #1 where updated models of speakers that were, at one time, recommended on this site.
I know for a fact guys upgrade the tweeters and center speaker to those speakers without additional amps and have had good responses...
I've read that too. Probably because the highs are lacking with the stock system. That's what motivated me to do my upgrade. But, those are small speakers, mids will need more power to produce more sound.
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Is this a decent 4 channel amp that could easily be applied?
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-6400F
There is one for sale in the BM for a good price I think...
If I were to get that how would I be setting that up? Power all four 6.5s? Front doors and the sub bridged?
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-6400F
There is one for sale in the BM for a good price I think...
If I were to get that how would I be setting that up? Power all four 6.5s? Front doors and the sub bridged?
You need to decide what you want powered. I'm in the process of my upgrade and I prefer all four 6.5 powered. I did not like how it sounded without the rear deck speakers. It sounds much fuller with them. But, I don't have great speakers so that could be why. I went with a 5 channel amp because I didn't want anything crazy, but I did want some deep bass. Now I wish I had went with a different amp.
Since I was just looking for a little more performance, I decided to go post-amp signal since my amp accepted high level inputs. My post amp signal had an unacceptable hiss/whine. So, I had to go pre-amp. But, my amp would not accept the TL's pre-amp inputs without the Audiocontrol Matrix. This device converts and boosts the signal. If I had known this, I would have purchased an amp that didn't require it. I think you want an amp that accepts a low powered balanced input (audiophiles, please chime in here I might have this backwards) you might not need the Matrix. I get the balanced/unbalanced terms mixed up.
Here is my upgrade thread and all the questions I have had answered: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/audio-upgrade-850264/
Since I was just looking for a little more performance, I decided to go post-amp signal since my amp accepted high level inputs. My post amp signal had an unacceptable hiss/whine. So, I had to go pre-amp. But, my amp would not accept the TL's pre-amp inputs without the Audiocontrol Matrix. This device converts and boosts the signal. If I had known this, I would have purchased an amp that didn't require it. I think you want an amp that accepts a low powered balanced input (audiophiles, please chime in here I might have this backwards) you might not need the Matrix. I get the balanced/unbalanced terms mixed up.
Here is my upgrade thread and all the questions I have had answered: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/audio-upgrade-850264/
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