hundreth

Hey,

Just bought myself an '05 TL w/ Navi. I'm really into car audio and as such the system in my car is very important to me. The previous owner put some crap in the car and I'm honestly not even sure what's going on in there, but all the speakers are connected to one amp in the trunk.

The problem is, the system sucks. You can hear a really loud hiss, the amps are always on when the car is on.. (There is some switch under the steering wheel to turn them off.) The front left speakers are having some issues with distortion and make noises when running over bumps. Basically it's a mess. I want to rip the whole thing apart and start fresh.

The first area I really want to focus on is the pre-amp. I'm not sure how everything is currently connected, but I'm pretty sure the installers didn't have the foresight or brainpower to tap into the stock headunit before the OEM amps and just used LOCs. The noise floor is really high currently and the hiss is quite annoying.

What is the best way to get a clean signal from the stock HU? I saw this adapter here:

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

Will that do the trick? Will I need to worry about balanced vs unbalanced at my amp's end?

Also, this is only 4 channel, and I would like to also have a separate sub amp. Is there a way to achieve the same thing for the sub out?

And last, do any of you have any better solutions?

Sorry for the super long post and all the questions, just very confused about how to proceed and frustrated with the current state of affairs.

Eiswritsat

got any pics of the install?

hundreth

Well, not sure why pics would really be helpful since it's just an amp in the trunk with 2 RCAs connected to it, and the speaker wires for each channel connected to each of the 4 channels on the amp.

Under the steering wheel, there is a little red switch which presumably sends the REM signal for the amp turn on.

That's about all I can see..


Either way the concept of connecting post OEM amp makes me cringe and that's what I'm trying to solve here..

Eiswritsat

To possibility see what they did wrong and try to give some advise on how to they caught the signal, where they could of etc. Just trying to help...

daddytl

hey ur better off just takeing everything out an let apro do the job

turbocivic94

I'm using this device and it works fine.

hundrethfoo

Had to create a new username.

Did you use this unit to hook up speakers or a subwoofer as well?

How did you make it work? Is the signal strong and clean?

Thanks for the info!

hundrethfoo

Unfortunately a "pro" did the current job I am sure. Not all pros know what they are doing honestly...

RBeachTL

First off good luck with your install; the TL is a fun car for audio mods.

Second, the amps should be on when the car is in ACC or ON. This is because of the HFL and the navi; you will need the audio for these systems so the car is designed to have the audio on when running or in accessory.

There are many A'ziners who have had good success tapping the audio after the stock amp using LOCs so going before the stock amp is not the only way to go.

If you do tap before the stock amp you can just splice into the stock cable assembly or you can build a connector as others have.

Good Luck and check out the many install threads on the site.

hundrethfoo

Thanks for the good luck, I am going to need it.

I haven't thought about the HFL and navi requirements for the amps to always be on. Currently it is slightly annoying because I can still hear the speakers hiss when no audio is playing at all. This feels like even more reason for me to go the pre stock amp route to lower the noise floor.

I was reading through all the threads about splicing into the stock assembly, but I just don't really understand all the details. There are worries over balanced vs. unbalanced, etc. I feel as though that PAC OEM interface solves those issues for me, but I am simply not sure. Which is why I created my own thread.

On another separate note, I've noticed the car is very rattle prone. Have any of you found any specific areas of the car where sound deadening really helps?

Thanks!

slow07

I'm in the process of doin this in my 07 tl its kind of a pain in the ass I don't know how rude your trying to make your system sound but I bought the line output converter and you have to splice into the factory sub and I'm using the factory hole for airway. You obviously run the power and the remote seperate u can't tie it into the converter but my buddy has the same setup and it hits pretty hard the hardest part is jumpin the remote wire in somewhere without messin anything up what type of subs and amps are you planning on using

hundrethfoo

I'm actually more concerned with front speakers sounding good than the sub. I'm not trying to make my system sound rude, just really clean and accurate for me. Don't really care if the block hears it. The sub I'll be using can get loud though.

TC Sounds LMS-R 12 mated to a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 for the sub.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-658


For speakers, I'm not sure yet.

eggyhustles

Invest in a processor.

Not some bs like a cleansweep

Look into the rockford 3sixty.2, audison bit.1, and jbl ms8

hundrethfoo

Is the processor going to be used to correct the OEM amp's craziness or can they be connected directly to the stock HU and used only as a line driver/EQ?

The reason I ask is because it seems that PAC harness totally removes the need for a cleansweep or anything like it.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

get yourself a 3sixty.2 you will i went your route with a LOC and after everything still ended up with a 3sixty. The sound is 10x better than any LOC out there.

hundrethfoo

Is the 3sixty.2 connected pre or post OEM amp?

Everyone keeps mentioning processors, but I fail to see why these complicated processors are needed when that harness gives a flat response. The cleansweep and the 3sixty.2 are primarily meant to compensate for the stock headunit's warped frequency response. The only other benefit would be the EQs and crossovers, but I can achieve most of that with a much cheaper unit such as an AudioControl processor.

I don't see the purpose in spending all that money compensating for the stock headunit when that PAC harness does it for you, with less noise to boot.

eggyhustles

Are you gonna be using amps?

hundrethfoo

Yes, I will be using amps for both the sub and aftermarket speakers.

turbocivic94

It sounds pretty good with loc.

tightdude14

how do i find the stock amp

hundrethfoo

I thought the point of the device is to not need a LOC..

I'm now more confused...

turbocivic94

I meant to say pac audio.

Anthonys_07TL

I was looking at this thread, I want to do the same thing with my system, 07 TL w/Navi.

Anthonys_07TL

Hey Hundreth, please let me know what setup you plan on using.

cjj2d

I am using a 3sixty.2 and installing it after the factory amp, as suggested in threads around here and from RF themself.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

like i said, i had different LOC from crap like raptor to good one like soundgate and to me LOC are crap to what 3sixty can do. i'm glad i got it cause my system sound 2x better and can do thing not possible with any LOC.

This is what i'm running

front - BOSTON PRO60 COMPONENT (cross to 70hz)
rear - coaxial polks (fillers)
sub - JL 12W7 2cubic ported box tune 30hz (cross to 63hz)
4channel - PDX 150.4 running passive might go active soon.
mono amp - pdx 1000.1 powering jl 12w7


my system sound loud but more important sound very clean and detail not really overpowering. Super clean bass with good midbass (second skin dampering pro sealed doors).